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About corwashere

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  1. Awesome! I just bought some fuggle hops yesterday. Thanks for the tips all! I'll let you know how it goes when I get around to making it. Bottling day for what is currently fermenting isn't until Sunday, so I'll be making it then. Thanks again! -cor-
  2. I use coopers drops all the time. There was "one batch" that turned out flat and it was the only one that I did not "invert the bottles" after a day or so after bottling. I'm not 100% sure that this was the issue, but ever since then, I have made sure to invert my bottles I have had no carbonation problems. -cor-
  3. Ok, so I've been experimenting with hop boils and using DME and whatnot and so far I've been very happy with the results of my experiments so far. What I am wondering is this: Using simply DME (munton's seems to have about 5 varieties (extra light, light, amber, dark, and wheat; at least at my LHBS), can anyone suggest a combination that would put out a decent "red". Yes, I know that "my personal preferences" will differ from everyone else's and there are thousands upon thousands of possible hop/ingredients combinations, but I'm just looking for suggestions. Overall I am trying to get a nice red color and then from there I can play around with hops and whatnot. I went to the LHBS today and picked up some amber and dark muntons DME, because I saw a post or 2 that mentioned using those. But, since the BORG, has helped me greatly in the past, I thought I get the opinions of those far more experienced than I. Thanks! -cor-
  4. My last few batches, I have used the Safale S-04 yeast. It seems to ferment a LOT faster than the fromunda yeast. I typically ferment for about 3 weeks but even at 2 weeks with the Safale it appears that the fermentation has been finishing very quickly. I was shocked to see (on all of the last 3 batches with the S-04) that there was already 3/4" layer of trub at the bottom of the LBK after only just 1 week! I assume this is normal; the hydro readings seem to have leveled out at about 1.010. I'm just wondering if it's _ok_ for a brew to ferment so fast? Everything I read here on the borg always seems to point out the "Slow and Steady wins the race!". Anyone else have thoughts / advice about using the Safale S-04? Thanks! -cor-
  5. It's definitely not a "deal breaker" for me; I'll keep buying MB stuff, but so far the Red has been my favorite. I guess it's time to stock up now before it's all gone!
  6. OK, I know that there were going to be changes but the RED?!?!? Come one MB!!! I just had my first Rose's Red and I fell in love only to learn that she will be leaving me soon!! The Bewitched Red is, by far, my favorite so far and it looks like it's going to be kicked to the curb I'm really disappointed with this! :pound: -cor-
  7. "smgarrett" post=259336 said:If you bottle primed with 12oz bottles, you have much more patients than I'll ever have. I use cooper's drops. I just plop one in the bottle just before I put the cap on. No measuring. -cor-
  8. "tcchris" post=259177 said:Actually , one more question . Thanks so much for the quick response . What do people generally do to keep it that cool . My home is 78 and I have it in a pantry that probably stays about 76 . Do you have a basement? That's where my "brewing room" is. It's always at a constant 68-72 degrees which seems to be perfect. If not, a lot of people recommend, keeping it in a cooler with some chilled water bottles. Others cover it with a cool wet towel. I'm still a newbie myself, so take what I say with a grain of salt. You might be OK temperature-wise, but I will let others that know better determine that. From what I remember reading, the danger zone is 85+ degrees, but again, I defer to those that know more than I. -cor-
  9. One of the reasons they tell you to use chilled water, especially when you first fill the LBK (Little Brown Keg) is to be a buffer when you pour the hot wort into it. This is so you don't inadvertently warp / destroy your LBK. After you pour in your wort, you then fill it the rest of the way up. One tip that I learned right here in these forums is that the quart measurement is wrong on the LBK. Instead of using the top line, fill it up to the "Q" just above that line. Once you fill it up the rest of the way with chilled water, you're good to go. Like genotype said, if you are starting to see sediment (trub) at the bottom of the LBK, then you're making beer. The directions say 1 week fermentation, one week in the bottle. If you follow those directions you will probably be a little disappointed in your beer. For the WCPA, I went with 2 weeks fermentation and 3 weeks in the bottle. Most people here will say let it go longer. But if you're impatient like I was during my first brew, then you'd be pretty safe with my numbers at least for a start. Once you get into making some of the recipes and brews with more extracts, you will definitely want to go with a 3-2-2 or more (3 weeks fermentation, 2 weeks carbonation, 2 weeks condition; in other words: 3 weeks fermentation 4 weeks in the bottle) Good luck! :chug: -cor-
  10. Oh, sorry... forgot to mention that. Yes it was a 2.5 gallon batch. It would be pretty watery otherwise
  11. Bottled this one last night and, of course, I had a little taste. It's actually pretty good. It's definitely not a "full bodied" beer due to the inevitable "thinness" of it, but that was to be expected. It definitely has the darker color that I was expecting from it. What surprised me is that it took a lot longer to ferment than I thought it would. I was expecting 2 weeks and it was a full 3 weeks before it finally bottomed out at 1.006. I'll let it sit in the bottles for a while and I will post back with pics how the final product turns out. Again, this was just an experiment to see if the WCPA can be improved since it's what comes with all of the basic kits and a lot of people tend to turn their nose up at it. -cor-
  12. Yesterday was bottling / brewing day and I had a hodgepodge of ingredients laying around so here's what I slapped together: 1 can Whispering Wheat 1 can Amber UME 1/2 oz Hallertauer hops @ 20 minute boil (I'm gonna dry hop the other 1/2 oz. after a week of fermentation) The house really smelled good last night, SWMBO didn't share that sentiment. :ohmy: 1 Bag Booster 8 0z. D-90 Candi syrup Safale S-04 Yeast OG came in at 1.056 Gonna let the whole thing ferment a total of 3 weeks. I'll probably let it sit in the bottle for 4 weeks (2 carb / 2 cond) before I try one of them out. Lots of activity in the LBK already this morning after only 6 hours. The brewing room smells nice and "hoppy"! It should be interesting to see what an "Amber Wheat" will be like. I imagine the floral/fruitiness of the hops should make a nice complement to the WW, while the Candi sugar and amber should give some of the full flavors that I love in darker beers. -cor-
  13. I would definitely invest in at least another LBK. It kinda sucks to just have one brew going. I have 2; some people on here have 3 or more always full of something. I am _still_ building up my pipeline. I imagine that I will be able to drink some of my beer "regularly" without fear of "not having anymore" in about 3 more weeks. I wouldn't knock the WCPA that comes with the kit. It's not Bud or Miller. In fact, I had a bunch of friends over this last Easter so I offered everyone some of the fruits of "my new hobby". Each person just wanted a "small taste" at first (fearful that it would be disgusting). Everyone loved it so much, the whole batch was gone by the end of the day. I would definitely let it sit longer in the LBK and in the bottles. I did a 2-2-2 with my WCPA which, of course, was my first brew. I took the borg's advice and ignored the 1-1 method as described in the instructions. That's pretty much there more as a marketing thing so they can put "I brewed this beer in as little as 2 weeks" on the boxes and all of their other marketing material. I had never brewed beer before but, even to my newbie eyes, that just seemed like too short of a time. -cor-
  14. "manosteel9423" post=257036 said:I never have any luck seeing sediment on the bottom of my LBK. I don't know why, but even if I shine a flashlight on it, I can't see it through the brown plastic. I know its there, from experience, but its certainly not visible. I've noticed that the amount of "brown" that is used in the plastic isn't completely consistent throughout the entire LBK. (At least not in the 2 I have anyway). In one LBK, for example, it is very easy to see the beer fermenting with very minimal need for a flashlight. For the other one, however, I have to turn off the lights and shine my flash light directly on it in order to just make out the beer. Regardless of the differences between the 2 I have no problems, whatsoever, seeing the trub collect on the bottom of both. It's easy to see in both LBKs, even without a flashlight. -cor-
  15. Wow, FedoraDave, very nice. Although, I don't have that much space in my work room. I still need to leave enough room for my work bench so I can still make my cigar box guitars (my other obsessive hobby!)
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