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About snakefetus

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    Brewmaster in Training
  1. Yeah its totally the gas venting out. That last blowout I experienced the sounds coming from my airlock were hilarious. I'm curious to know how yours turns out...When I made a coopers in an LBK it came out horribly bitter....Almost un-drinkable...almost.
  2. "May or may not release your beer" Sweetest job ever. I wonder what he does with the "unreleased" beer....
  3. Well, I feel that I do clean very well, and I then sanitize with Iodophor (I believe thats the correct spelling). I do know which LBK it was because about 6 months ago my cat knocked my empty LBK onto the floor and the lid broke in 2, so I have since been just covering the opening with saran wrap and 2 single tiny holes for ventilation. I know its no airlock, but I've had to make do. I have not had any issues with the saran wrap lid, until now I guess. As for scratches, as far as I can tell it seems smooth. I've not used anything abrasive to clean the inside with either. I was thinking it could be the LBK itself, as you mentioned Dave, I just wasn't sure that would affect the carbonation in the bottles. I have been debating on ordering a new Mr.Beer kit with fermentor off of amazon, looks like its now been decided. Thanks for the input!
  4. So. I brewed up an amber wheat ale a bit ago, using DME and hopping it myself. Anyway I started everything out in my large bucket, then racked into 2 LBK's. fast forward 2 weeks and I have bottled said brew. Now fast forward another 3.5 weeks. Upon testing 2 bottles, the one bottle from LBK 1 was ok. a little undercarbed but alright. Bottle from LBK 2 was pretty much if not completly flat and also quite sour. I batched primed using amounts from screwy's website, in 2 sittings. ( I bottled from one LBK, then later that day did the other LBK) They conditioned in the dark at 69-70F. I checked some other bottles from the sour batch and they all came out the same, and the one plastic bottle I used is very soft. I am very confident that the seals on the bottles are ok, so thats not the issue, but I really am at a loss as to why half this batch turned out ok and the other half came out so bad. What makes it worse is I made this batch with a friend interested in starting homebrewing and really dont want this to sour (pun intended :cheer: ) his experience on this wonderful hobby. Any thoughts / feelings from the borg? :cheers: EDIT: The beer fermented in the primary for 1 week, and in the LBK's for 2 weeks
  5. Cool, i will definitely do that. thanks for all the help!
  6. Oh i see what you mean...add morrow water fill to 8 quarts on both LBK's. ok that's fine, but im still wondering about the hop boil and adding dme dissolved in water to the hop water after the boil. So i am to understand that adding dme and water after the boil won't decrease my hop utilization
  7. The recipe im following is for 3.5 gallons. all i have is a 5 gallon Carboy and 2 LBK's. Originally i was going to just do it in a 2.5 gallon batch in one lbk but the Borg steered me towards just doing it in the 2 LBK's. said the little extra headspace shouldn't matter too much. I guess i liked the 2 lbk idea as there would be more beer after the fact.
  8. Also if I had to guess I would say that the pots are around 8 quarts
  9. "Screwy Brewer" post=364581 said:I've used multiple sized pots for brewing beer ranging in size from 4 quarts to 10 gallons so far. Since you haven't provided any metrics around hop quantity, pot sizes or fermentor size I'm not too sure what more I can contribute. Well I am using 1oz of tettnanger pellet hops, boiling for about 30 minutes. I am not sure on the exact size of the pots and can't measure right now as I am at work. I am splitting this into 2 LBK's. The LBK's will each be filled to about 1.75 gallons. I asked a question earlier regarding the extra head space in the LBK's and the response was that it should be ok. I guess my original question boils down to can I do my hop boil in a smaller amount of water and DME, then add more DME dissolved in water to the 'hop pot' after the hop boil is complete without affecting the hop utilization or whatever. Does that help?
  10. You know what, I am totally talking about the old recipe. Haha, I assume they have to be similar
  11. I didn't know there was different kinds of Oxy-Clean. What does the 'Free' on the label mean? and if i was to use just regular Oxy-Clean what would be the downsides?
  12. So I am going to be doing up an extract batch and boiling in my own hops. The recipe I am following makes about 3.5 gallons. It calls for 4# of DME, 8oz Crystal 120, and tett hops. Since I do not have a very large brew pot, I was wondering if this would work out for me. Steep Crystal in 1.25 gallons water for 30 min. Temp @ 160 Add in 1# DME, Start boil, at hops. While waiting, add 1.5 Gallons water to second pot, add in the remaining 3# DME. Bring to boil. Once hop boil is complete, combine the 2 pots, cool, add to fermenter, bring down temp, top off with water and pitch yeast. I am not doing it all in the one pot because there would be a real good chance at a boil over, and I remember reading that when doing a hop boil, about a 1.25 gallons water with 1 # DME gives me around the SG reading needed to get the most out of my hops, so im not sure what the SG reading would be if I added all the DME to 2.5 gallons and boiled Any help or suggestions would be appreciated. :cheers:
  13. I enjoyed this as well, was one of the first brews i made. Proper conditioning is a must for this one
  14. I'm on Vancouver Island, in BC edit: I think I am the only one on the island haha
  15. I made that brew probably my 4th or 5th batch in, and to be honest I got really good reviews on it, and I also really enjoyed it as well. I would say just brew up as per the recipe instructions, keep an eye on your temps and you should be good to go. I do believe I added an extra half pound of Amber DME to it and used some Nottingham Ale Yeast instead of the yeast that came with the kit
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