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About drgnfli00

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  1. Don’t know if you found the answer or not, however Midwest uses the powdered PB in a kit they sell. They use it in the secondary. It’s called Chocolate Covered Beavr Nuts. Some creative searching will find the recipe. It uses 2x 6.5oz jars or powdered PB in the secondary for one week for a stout based recipe. Good luck...
  2. Nash 1444 wrote: Hello, Thanks. With frozen fruit, doesen't it have to be sanitized first, or not? Or just buy a bag of frozen fruit and add it to the fermentor? Thanks for your help. There are varying schools of thought regarding what needs to be done to the fruit prior to use. I can tell you from my blueberry beer batch that I survived and more importantly my beer survived when I racked it directly onto frozen blueberries. When you have a healthy batch of beer going, the alcohol that is present will act to inhibit any nasties from taking over from the fruit. I chose this method because I wanted the freshest tasting flavor from the berries. Others feel more comfortable cooking the berries a bit to sanitize them then adding that to the secondary. Cooking however will create more pectin to be released which will create more haze, and it will also change the flavor of the berries to a cooked flavor. Just think of what a fresh blueberry tastes like compared to one that has been cooked. Granted cooked fruit still tastes great, it just tastes different than its fresh uncooked counterpart. There are about as many different ways of brewing beer as there are religions. Pick the one that you feel comfortable with and don’t be afraid to try new methods as that is the only way to learn what works best for you.
  3. Yes Do It...just do it differently 1.) Rack onto fruit that has been frozen. Keeping the fruit whole, but freezing it breaks down the walls without having to mash it into a pulp. 2.) When using fruits you may want to use a fining. Super Kleer works great for getting all of the fruit pulp to settle. I would think if you puree that it would be almost mandatory to use a fining. One thing of note. Blueberries will give a very subtle flavor to the beer. It is a very delicate flavor to begin with so it doesn’t translate directly into the finished product. This can be the case for many fruits used in beers. With the blueberry beer I made it actually added a bit of a tannic bite to the beer in addition to adding a very light berry flavor. The tannin was more than likely coming from the skins similar to how red wine gets its tannic bite from the skins. I liked it as it gave the beer a nice dry finish, however it may not be for everyone. Be careful with fruit extracts. They are powerful, easy to over do, and many people think they make the beer taste like cough syrup. Do your homework as it appears there are varying quality levels when it comes to fruit extracts.
  4. Do a search on smack pack not swelling or my fermentation hasn’t started and you will find pages and pages of people asking the same question. Ultimately, most of the time the worry was for nothing. Packs that don’t swell up all the way still ferment fine, and people perving fermentation often find that sometimes it takes longer than a few hours to get an active fermentation going. Some times 48+ hours. Bottom line is many brewers worry way too much. As a new brewer I still share in that experience. Just check MrMalty to ensure you are pitching the correct amount of yeast. I don’t know if you said what your target OG was, but if it is going to be high as might be interpreted from your choice of yeast, you may want to pitch your other yeast pack in addition to your starter. http://www.mrmalty.com/calc/calc.html
  5. You really can’t shake that thing enough. If you are letting the starter sit for 10 hours you are not keeping the yeast in suspension and they won’t do much sitting on the bottom of the mason jar plus they are going to get starved for O2 which causes more stress on the yeast. You are going to get better results and better cell health with a stir plate as I am sure you are already aware. Also as far as the swelling, I have had a smack pack not swell all the way, I pitched directly, and the only problem I had was massive blow off from the yeast party in my bucket. I believe it says right on the package that it may not inflate fully.
  6. A good portion of the hop mater should have been left behind in the coldbreak. So I don’t see the little that remains contributing to settling sugar. But Ill be honest I don’t claim to know the how much sugar is absorbed by hops or its ability to cling to sugar. Honestly relax...I am sure your beer will be fine.
  7. I also need to clarify a bit to my prior post. The Whirlfloc tablet is not causing the sugar to somehow not mix correctly. As was stated before, the Whirlfloc works on proteins, not sugars. Some of my first batches of extract partial boil recipes had way higher OG's than what I was supposed to get. Do a google search on high OG after top off and you will see I am not the only one. I expect this is complicated by the fact that I use O2 to aerate my wort rather than shaking it which caused the sugar to settle. I hindsight I noticed that I took samples with my beer thief fairly low in the fermenter bucket which is where the sugar would settle. And presto you get a higher OG than specified. I could mix the wort better after top off, but as I posted above I just measure my wort after getting rid of the coldbreak and figure how much water I need to add to get to OG and I don’t worry about post top off OG. The yeast once it wakes up does a fine job of mixing up all of that sugar.
  8. Well...I believe he is wondering why he is 30pts higher than what beersmith tells him it should be. For the record I still stand by my original assertion...that the wort was not mixed well with the top off water which could have caused a higher reading if he grabbed a pocket of wort that wasn’t properly diluted. As far as steeping grains. Yes it adds both fermentable and unfermentable sugars and in reality they do add quite a bit. The problem is that most people use small amounts of steeping grains in proportion to the extract/mashed grain bill which is why I said steeping grains will not add much to the OG. So again I feel that a typical steeping grain quantity regardless of how much water was used to steep in them will not make much of a difference to the OG and I don’t see how it could add 30pts.
  9. How much steeping grain did you use? If you have beersmith/qbrew it will tell you how much it will add to OG. As I said before it will add some, however unless you are using a few lbs of steeping grains for an LBK batch I don’t see how you could get 30pts extra from just the steeping grains. A good link that describes what is going on with steeping grains... http://beersmith.com/blog/2009/03/22/steeping-grains-for-extract-beer-brewing/
  10. Steeping grains don’t add much fermentable sugars so regardless of water amount your steeping grains are not going to change your OG much, and certainly not 30pts.
  11. In reply to lylecox.... True...just as it is true that some bacteria are smaller. Mycoplasma = .1 microns. Although it looks like mycoplasmas like to live in us more than wort or beer. It seems they are also responsible for many infected lab experiments due in part to their small size and difficulty keeping them out of the lab. I’m sure the stone permeability was not designed around filtering out bacteria although it is certainly a nifty bonus. If someone asks me which stone is better I will say the .5 micron simply because it does the best job of getting the O2 into your wort not because it will prevent bacteria from getting into your wort more so than the 2 micron.
  12. I’ll be honest I usually don’t do gravity reading after top off if I am doing partial boils anymore. I just measure my boil gravity prior to flame out to make sure I am at least at or above what I need for my OG in case I need to add more DME if I get crappy efficiency. After the wort has cooled and in the fermenter prior to topping off I will take one more reading. This way I can accurately gauge the wort volume without the coldbreak. I then calculate with beersmiths dilution tool how much water to add to get my recipe OG and call it a day.
  13. Are you topping off with water after your boil? I have noticed that it takes a long time to get the sugars integrated with the added water and will get wacky gravity readings until it integrates together.
  14. Don’t try it!!! Why not??? Come on...where is the adventurous spirit? For a test run get your favorite IPA and add some Midori to it. Find out if the combination is to your liking. If you like it by all means go for it! I will say a wheat/wit might be a better option only because the melon flavor is so slight it might get buried with whatever hops you use. Plus it’s going to be tougher to clear with fruit (unless you use a finning like super kleer) and a wheat by default will be cloudy anyway. Personally I don’t give a rip about clarity and I don’t chase clarity rather I just want my beer to taste good. The only question is how to get the cantaloupe into your beer? Add it to the mash like the pumpkin recipes do or add it to the secondary after primary fermentation is done? I’ve done blueberry wheat and added frozen blueberries right to the secondary and racked on top of them. As with many fruits beers the flavor was very subtle which I would imagine would be the same issue with the melon. Worst case scenario you make a fruit beer that doesn’t have much fruit flavor and comes out closer to your base style. I have a sneaking suspicion that the pro breweries use an extract. As I am sure some will attest to, extracts can be very hit or miss as far as how authentic they taste. Good luck!!!
  15. Once you go commando you won’t go back. It’s very liberating.
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