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About Dizzon

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  1. The S-23 lager yeast that comes with the dopplebock can ferment at temps up to 71 F. I've used it a couple times in the mid to upper 60's to make some really good kolsch style beers. Even at higher than optimal temps it still makes a pretty clean beer. As long as you can at least keep it somewhere in the 60's during fermentation you'll still get a good beer, it just won't be a lager and you can treat it like any other ale yeast.
  2. It's a good start if you're new to brewing lagers, the process is more complicated and time consuming if you're REALLY in to making lagers but I'm trying to make this simple and not confuse anyone on their first go of it.
  3. When you "lager" a beer before bottling you want to do it at a colder temp than fermentation so moving it back to the basement unbottled after the rest won't gain you anything. If you can't put it in the fridge after the rest just go ahead and bottle it then move it back to the basement to carb then to the fridge to bottle lager for a month. Since this is a darker lager and not something like a pilsner I wouldn't worry too much about it, it'll still have a crisp clean taste to it. The important thing is that it ferments in lager range. Edit: Yes, three weeks ferment in the 50's if you don't have a hydrometer and 2-3 days D-rest in the 60's.
  4. @Baltimorechop. After the rest instead of putting it back in the basement I'd put it in the fridge for 5-7 days for a short "lagering" time, bottle it, move it back to the basement for 2-3 weeks to carb at fermentation temps then back to the fridge for an additional 30 days before opening the first one. That's the easiest way for a first time lager IMO.
  5. Yup. As long as the total liquid in the Mr. Beer keg is no colder than 59/60 or warmer than 74/75 F you're good to pitch the yeast that came with the kit. When I make a MR. Beer batch I normally have two one gallon jugs of filtered water in the fridge. By the time you've added one gallon of refrigerated water to the keg, the hot prepared mix from the stove, then more refrigerated water from the second gallon jug to top off you're likely right in that temp range. Rule of thumb for pitching yeast... if you hold the sides of the Mr. Beer keg with both hands and it's not cold or warm to the touch then it's good to pitch the yeast.
  6. Others will likely give better, more detailed advice than me but here goes. Anywhere in the 60's F but not above 74/75 is good for Ale yeast. (that's what you have in the kit) If you don't have a hydrometer and know how to use it let it ferment for three weeks before bottling. If you can't verify that fermentation is done you could get bottle bombs. http://beersmith.com/blog/2009/08/27/5-home-brewing-tips-to-avoid-the-dreaded-bottle-bomb/ As far as the temp of the water you add... you just need to make sure what you pitch the yeast in to falls in the fermentation range for ale yeast (59/60 to 74/75 F) Let it bottle condition for three-four weeks at room temp before refrigerating. I know it's tough but if you refrigerate before carbing it wont because the yeast needed to carb will go dormant in the cold fridge and it'll still be flat. Hopefully that'll help for now. Like I said, others here are more advanced than me and will likely chime in.
  7. I made the pumpkin lager a little under a year ago and it was a big success with the family at Thanksgiving. I just made it with roughly 8oz a can of pumpkin pie filling and 2 tablespoons of pumpkin pie spice. The only difference between mulling and pumpkin pie spice is the orange peel. Definitely don't go over 2 tablespoons per Mr. Beer size batch, any more would be pretty over-powering. It would taste good with only the spice but using the pumpkin pie filling added a very nice subtle pumpkin taste you can't get without it.
  8. I wasn't terribly impressed by the Spring Seasonal so I think I'll sit on the sidelines for the Summer and wait for reviews. Besides, I have way plenty going and in the on-deck circle.
  9. If you took a hydrometer reading before pitching I would take another one tomorrow to see if you had any movement. If you didn't I would seriously consider repitching if you don't see any signs of fermentation like airlock activity, trub or krausen by that same time.
  10. Not all that long ago I pitched a pack of rehydrated 05 on a barleywine and there was absolutely no signs of action for the first two days, but between days two and three a very fine film of krausen finally started to form and from there it took off. I've noticed rehydrated 05 can be a slow starter. Do you have any kind of krausen forming yet?
  11. As long as you don't let it get above 71 degs f during fermentation you'll still get a cleaner crisper lager-ish beer than with ale yeasts. If you can keep it in Ideal range then do it, but if you can't just keep it under 71 and you'll still taste a difference.
  12. If you liked that you'd love their oak aged barleywine, as well as their bottle conditioned tripel and quadrupel. I live in the St. Louis area so I snatch up limited editions when possible.
  13. I remember the first home brew I gave my dad. He didn't know I was even interested in it let alone made and bottled a batch. He never made any home brews but I was surprised to find out that my grandpa used to brew his own beer. He would tell stories about waking up in the middle of the night hearing a loud bang coming from the basement. My dad joked it must skip a generation.
  14. I wonder, had I opened one before four weeks if I would've noticed a bit of haze. It's not a big deal, just curiosity on my part.
  15. I wonder how many are getting the slight wheat haze. Even my trub bottle was a crystal clear lite caramel color.
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