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About antiwraith

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    Brewmaster in Training

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  1. I've got some aging yeast and LME. The LME isn't expired per the date on the can, but is approaching. Yeast shipped with LME. Some of the yeast has been kept in the fridge, some under the lid of the LME (which has been stored in the house, so climate controlled). i'm more worried about the yeast vs the LME. Should it all still be good?
  2. "SteveCon" post=356194 said:I'd roll with a pound of LME/DME with your HME and add maybe a 1/2 pack of booster. One of my fav beers is Prince Ludwig if I remember correctly it is a can of Oktoberfest and WW and I added a 1/2 to a pound of extract and a 15min and 7min boil with a flameout addition of Saaz. It is freaking awesome, I have some in my pipeline and enough to brew it two more times. I looked it up, sounds like it would be good! Which extract did you add? Which hops did you add to the boil?
  3. I've got the link for the old recipes, but I was unsure about how to substitute LME in place of MB UME. It appears I just do a 1:1 ratio of the correct type. If I do 1 HME and 1 LME equal to a UME, how much booster should I add? A half pack? I just want the old MB cans to make the best beer they can, since this is the last of them. A good goodbye if you will.
  4. I have a WW, 2 Octoberfest, ADIPA, witty monk, bewitched red ale, CGL, and a American Blond pale ale. I think....
  5. I've got a handful of the old style MR canned HME. None of the UME though. I don't really care for the basic 1 can of HME + booster. I do have some LME that needs used up that I bought elsewhere. I have some Golden malt extract and some Munich Malt. I know it won't be 100% the same, but is it as simple as substituting the same volume of malt extract for a UME? In that case, do I still use booster? I think not.... Basically I just want to use up my old cans of the basic recipe but have it be better than 1 can + booster...but I don't want to use too much or too little unhopped malt extract. What's a good rule of thumb for the ratio?
  6. I've got one bottle of this left from maybe 9 months ago. When it was "new" it smelled and tasted like......not good beer. At the 6 month in the bottle mark, it really was something good. I should finish off that last bottle before it gets too old. But yeah, good stuff. I saw where someone mentioned they looked up the old recipe. Where are those at? I've got a handful of old MB cans that I'd like to spruce up...the old basic refills with just the can and booster don't do it for me anymore.
  7. Hmmm.....I barely have room to lager it in a 5 gallon carboy. No way I have room to lager it in bottles in the fridge. Since I have layered so long in the carboy, can I bottle/carb/cool in fridge for a few days/drink like I do my ales? Or is lagering in bottles also important?
  8. I'm a day or two from it being lagered in the carboy @ 35 degrees or so for a month. Since this is my first lager, is that long enough? I know lagers can go longer than 1 month, but has this been long enough? Basically i'm asking if it is too soon to bottle....
  9. "swenocha" post=328429 said: "antiwraith" post=328423 said: "RickBeer" post=328419 said:Guys don't wear leggings... :laugh: I fixed that typo!! Psst... look in the Title... Lol. Damn touchscreen keyboard. Title is fixed on the first post.....looks like the replies are still botched. Sorry guys!
  10. Do I want ball locks or pin locks? I assume whatever type you go with you'd want future kegs to be the same type. Is one kind better than the other?
  11. "RickBeer" post=328419 said:Guys don't wear leggings... :laugh: I fixed that typo!!
  12. I want to start kegging and force carb'ing my homebrew. Right now all I have ever done is bottle and carb that way. Can anyone comment on this setup? http://www.midwestsupplies.com/brew-logic-dual-tap-draft-system-with-reconditioned-co2-tank.html I have a $40 Midwest gift card and there is a coupon for another $10 off. And I would order without the CO2 tank, that works out to $200 including tax and shipping. Any thoughts on this setup? Seems to be the best bang for your buck I can find for getting started with kegs.
  13. OK, took a Hydrometer reading. Came in at 1.0.20, should be between 1.012 and 1.014 according to the instructions. Though that is FG, so I'm not sure if lagering it for a long period of time will change anything. Either way, if it reads again at the same number I'll transfer to a carboy. If it's still changing, it'll sit until it stops. I do have it sitting in the house, so it is not cool like it was for fermenting. I guess just call this an extended diacetyl rest? Though most things say that should be for 24-48 hours and tomorrow morning will be 48 hours.
  14. So my first 5 gallon batch has been in the garage doing primary fermentation for 2 weeks now (it's a lager). I bought it in yesterday morning for 24 hours of diacetyl rest. The airlock stopped bubbling at all around day 10, but I let it sit for the full 2 week. My understanding of a diacetyl rest is that the yeast wakes up from being in a warmer area and eats up the diacetyl and that I should see renewed airlock activity. And I am. However do I need to leave in a warm area and wait until there is no more airlock activity before I move to secondary and remove the yeast bed from the equation? The papers and books say no, after a 24 diacetyl rest, move it to a carboy and put in the fridge. Is that what I should do? Seems like an obvious answer, but this is my first 5 gal and first lager. Don't want to mess it up.
  15. Well I did plan ahead and purchased the carboy brew hauler as well. The thing with all of the straps. I figure that will be way safer than those handles.... Also I shouldn't have to worry about blow offs just using it for secondary. I have a 6.5 gal ale pale for primary. Though I might do some little MB batches in the carboy just be able to see it ferment, that'll depend on how hard the carboy is to clean compared to the LBK.
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