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dbark

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About dbark

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    Brewmaster in Training
  1. @ Rudy Yes Perlick is the way to go. I have 2. I ordered them from Ritebrew.com. They have some low prices. The lowest I've seen. $18 for the 525 pc perlick and $12 or so for the shank. Check them out if you haven't. I've also had issues getting the beverage line off my shank. I remedied the problem by running hot water on the connection and it finally gave. Hope this helps.
  2. I haven't found a strainer that will filter out hot or cold break. I've added both hot and cold break with the same results as if I didn't- other than my volume is 8 qts less if I don't add the break. I did try one technique this last time around. I added the wort to my fermenter until the break started to flow into the carboy. I stopped, let it sit for 15, the cold break receded away from my spigot, I added 4 more cups of clear wort and did this until I couldn't add clear wort anymore. I do 5 gallon batches and use a 7.5 gallon boil kettle with a spigot. Hope this helps. It also lets you know the losses you get from your boil kettle. Now I know that at least.
  3. Alcoholica: Sorry for the confusion. You were talking about liking citrus notes in hops and I mentioned Chinook hops provide that. Let me know how your brew turns out!
  4. I'm also going to keg my first beer tomorrow. I plan on just hooking up the gas line and hooking up the beverage line later. I would check the beverage connection for leaks periodically. A spray bottle with sanitizer works best.
  5. I recently made a Chinook IPA and used them as a dry hop and late additions and it was citrusy and grapefruit notes all the way around. It's my new favorite hop (for the moment).
  6. Done that recently. I don't boil it, I just add to the boil pot and then bring it to a boil. I also thought about keeping some of the left over wort to keep and use for making a yeast starter. I think the gravity has to be 1.040 though. I'll look more into it when I run out of DME. Great idea on boiling, I might try that. Thanks.
  7. I don't use a software program. My process is to heat 5 gallons of H20 to 170 F, put it in the MLT, add grains, mash for 60 minutes at 154-150 F. Then I heat about 4 gallons of sparge water to 170 F while I'm mashing. After the mash is done, I recirculate 3-4 times using a 2 qt pitcher. Get it nice and clear and then drain the MLT. Tilt, repeat etc. Then I add the sparge water, lightly stir, let it sit for 10 and repeat the recirculation process and fill the brew pot to 6.5 gallons and proceed to boil. I use a stainless steel braid in the MLT with vinyl tubing running through a drilled stopper that leads to a shutoff valve with more tubing after the valve. It works like a charm and other than my first brew I've been getting 70-75 % efficiency. I take a reading pre boil and post boil. I'm on the verge of joining a brew club where I live and I'm sure I will get turned on to different ideas and possibly a software program. It's always exciting to learn new things!
  8. Apparently I forgot to add yankeedag. I couldn't of done it without you of course.
  9. The grain in the mash lauter tun had a lot of wort/liquid left in the grain after filling the brew kettle to my boil volume. I'm used to having dry grains from previously doing BIAB. I started tilting the cooler back for a few minutes, then tilting forward and opening the valve and repeating to get more volume in the brew kettle. Problem solved. Samuel: 11.25 #s of grain. I used 16.8 qts of H20 to mash and then batch sparging to 6.5 gallons in the brew kettle. I obviously had too much sparge water. My OG was 1.050 pre boil. Post boil was 1.055. That was my first attempt with my MLT. I have decent process down now that eliminates the excess H20 and gets me right at 6.5 gallons in the brew kettle. Thanks guys!
  10. Man o' man gotta hand it to this forum for building my confidence in almost 2 years of homebrewing, Ive advanced from LBK fermenters that I still use to BIAB to a mash tun that I use for batch sparging. I don't post a lot but I pay attention to the experienced folk like Fedora Dave, Screwy brewer, kealia, and mashani to name a few. It's my foundation if you will. It's what I keep coming back to if I have a question. So thank you. I've recently done a chocolate porter and a holiday ale that i'm adding vanilla beans and chocolate nibs. I've use whole cone hops recently that I received from a friend that I hand picked and that brew was amazing. It was a dream come true! Anyway a big thanks to Mr. Beer forums.
  11. Just do it! use molasses not honey. Great recipe and idea.
  12. Made a mash tun with a stainless steel braid for batch sparging. I used it the first time 2 days ago and had zero issues. Works like a charm and was a good experience. I mashed, recircuulated, drained all the mash H20, added the sparge water, stirred, waited 10 minutes, recirculated, drained to my boil volume. What I noticed was quite a bit of good wort still left in the grains. I could've drained out close to another gallon of viable sugary goodness. Is this normal? Is this why it is recommended to add 10% more base malt to offset the leftover wort? Thanks ahead of time.
  13. It will be interesting to say the least. I have a few hop head fiends, yes fiends, so I'll share with them. I chose M.O. grains for a malty back bone. It would be completely different had I chose 2 row.
  14. Needed to clear out partial/whole bags of pellet hops so I threw together a quick recipe. Let me know your thoughts. I didn't have a profile agenda but just wanted to have fun and and do something different. Brewed on 9-23-13 5 gallon batch 11# Maris Otter 12 oz Victory 8 oz 40 L Caramel 4 oz Carapils Mashed 1 hour 150-152 60 minute boil 60 - 1.75 oz Galena hops 13% AA 15 1.6 oz Cascade 15 1.6 oz Centennial 15 .5 oz Perle 15 .4 oz Falconer Flight 7 C's 7 days dry hop 1 oz Amarillo Wyeast 1056 American Ale 60-72 yeast starter 1.070 OG (hit my OG) 1.018 FG predicted 6.9% ABV 122 IBU 10 SRM
  15. I think you would have to let it condition longer than that, but I might be wrong. I still have an oatmeal stout that is getting better and better the longer I let it sit. I've heard 6-8 months and longer.
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