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About unkyjack

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  1. Thank you for the info! I have a can of Aztec Mexican Cerveza I've been wanting to brew, but with a little added pizzaz. Your recipe is just what I've been looking for. Thanks for sharing. Jack
  2. "VTGroff" post=342276 said:If the majority of those hops are added later in the boil, then it will contribute significantly less IBUs than if they are earlier in the boil. It's really tough to say without seeing the actual recipe. That said, I just punched some numbers into the Brewpal app on my phone, and I'm getting numbers betwwn 6.5-7.0% ABV for a 1 gal recipe with 2.5 lbs of grain - that's a lot of grain for 1 gal. Are you sure this isn't an IPA recipe? Thanks for running the numbers with Brewpal. The book lists it as a "Pale Ale." The recipe calls for 2 lbs. 4 oz. of 2-row and 4 oz. of 20L crystal malt. Using a 60 minute boil, the Cascade hops are added: 20 grams at 60 minutes, 10 grams at 20 minutes and 10 grams at 1 minute. The recipe shows an original gravity of 1.055 and a final gravity of 1.012. Using the OG - FG x 131 formula, I come up with an ABV of 5.6%. That's a little lower than Brewpal calculated, but you may have used different OG and FG numbers. Jack
  3. FLA Brewer . . . Looks like a tasty recipe. What was the total boil time? Jack
  4. Good suggestion k9dude, that makes a lot of sense. I'll go with the standard Pale Ale recipe from the book and see how it turns out. If necessary, I can always make changes to subsequent brews to fine tune the hops. Thanks to everyone who responded. I appreciate the help. Jack
  5. I have the "Beer Craft" book, by Bostwick and Rymill. It's dedicated to small-batch, all-grain brewing and has a number of recipes I'd like to try. But it seems to me that the recipes in "Beer Craft" use quite large quantities of hops. The amounts seem almost excessive. When I plug the book's recipes into a program like BrewMate, they always come up with an IBU that's way beyond the style for a given beer. I'm not sure it's legal to reproduce complete recipes from "Beer Craft" here, but, for example, their 1-gallon recipe for Pale Ale uses 40 grams of Cascade hops with 2.5 pounds of grain. That's approximately 1.4 ounces of hops. Their recipe for Stout uses 20 grams (.71 oz) of Target hops with 2 pounds 6 ounces of grain. Other small-batch recipes I've seen for similar brews use much less hops with similar amounts of grain. For example, the Brooklyn Brew Shop's "Beer Making Book" is another small-batch, all-grain book, and it uses about 50% less hops for 1-gallon batches of similar beers with almost identical amounts of grain. Do the hop amounts for the "Beer Craft" book seem to be excessive? Like I said, I'd like to try some of the recipes, but I'm thinking about cutting back on the amount of hops that are called for in the book so the IBU numbers fall into the appropriate ranges. Looking forward to any comments and suggestions. Thanks. Jack
  6. Thanks for the info guys. The Bohemian pilsner has been conditioning for two weeks. As someone suggested, I now have one 12 oz. bottle chilling in the fridge so I can crack it open in a day or two just to see if it's really beer. The remainder will continue to condition for one or two more weeks. This conditioning stuff is helping me develop my patience, which is something I need to do. It ain't easy, but I know it'll be worth the effort. Jack
  7. Has anyone made an immersion chiller for an LBK? Would it be practical considering the 140-degree temperature limit of the LBK? Jack
  8. A week ago I bottled my first Mr. Beer brew -- the new Bohemian Pilsner (no booster). It was batch primed and I split the bottling between 1/2-liter PET bottles and 12 oz. glass longnecks. The reason I used the PET bottles was to get some feedback on carbonation by checking on the firmness of the bottles as the batch conditioned. Right now, a week after bottling, the PET bottles are almost rock hard. I can barely move the sides of the bottle with a good, firm squeeze. So, it appears carbonation is happening, but since this is my first bottling experience I'd like to know if I'm "in the ballpark" for this point in time. My plan is to continue conditioning for another week before putting a few bottles in the fridge to cold condition for a few days. Does it sound like everything's going OK? Any suggestions about how to proceed from this point on? Jack
  9. "FedoraDave" post=291218 said:Once you get into a rhythm and have things down, your bottling will go very smoothly. A lot of guys don't like bottling day, but I don't feel that way. By developing a process that allows multi-tasking, it goes very smoothly. For instance, I've learned that in the time it takes for my priming sugar solution to cool to the proper temperature, I can get my bottles sanitized and half the fermenter drained into the priming bucket. Perfect timing to add the sugar, IMO, and let the rest of it drain and automatically mix the primer in. Although it was unintentional, that's sort of how I ended up doing my bottling. While the primer mix was cooling, I got as much of the other stuff organized as possible, including sanitizing the bottles and positioning the LBK, Slim Line, bottles, bottle caps and capper where I thought they should go to make a "mini" production line. I was probably just lucky that things worked out as well as they did since much of what I ended up doing was the result of going with my best "guesstimate." Hey, every once in a while even a blind squirrel finds an acorn. :laugh: Jack
  10. Good question, Dave. Maybe someone here who bakes or knows a baker could answer that question for us. All I know about the pie weights is what my friend told me and what I've seen in a couple of online pics of them. Since they're used for cooking/baking it never crossed my mind that the ceramic surface might be absorbent. Jack
  11. FedoraDave . . . Thanks for the tips. I followed your suggestions and my first bottling session went smoothly, especially the capping. I used a combination of generic long-necks and Sam Adams bottles, plus some Mr. Beer 1/2-liter PETs. One thing I learned is that it helps to come up with a workflow system for bottling. The one I devised before I got started actually got me on the right track. A couple of mid-course corrections were needed, but nothing drastic. I was able to accomplish two major goals: using an auto siphon to go from the LBK to a Slim Line for batch priming and using a bottling wand to fill the bottles. Those two things really made the process a lot easier. Absolutely no trub was transferred to the Slim Line and no beer was lost to drips or spills with the bottling wand. Woohoo! :banana: The next bottling session should be a lot easier now that I have a better idea of how to do it. Jack
  12. "Screwy Brewer" post=290914 said:unkyjack for the boil I don't sanitize them the boiling wort does that for you, but for dry hopping I keep them submerged so they're in full contact with the wort. They rouse the yeast a bit when they hit the bottom of the fermentor, which doesn't hurt your attenuation. [img size=250]https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-LpWuWdgH0Jc/Trh4NlZgiCI/AAAAAAAAB-U/19WsRDQjLyc/s720/wightdhops.jpg Use Stainless Steel Only!Thanks Screwy. I have stainless hardware here that I can use. A friend who works in a hardware store said they sell something called "pie weights" which might work, too. They're like marbles but made of ceramic and used in baking pie crusts. Since they're designed for cooking use, I guess they would be a good choice. Anyone who's a baker might already have some hiding in a kitchen drawer. I don't. Jack
  13. "Screwy Brewer" post=290845 said:A two minute soak in StarSan, then wring out all the StarSan add hops and weights and into the fermentor for dry hopping. Been doing it like that forever with terrific results. Hmmm. I thought the hop sack would sink on its own. What can I use to weight it down that won't affect the taste of the beer? Jack
  14. "FedoraDave" post=290371 said:I, too, use mostly Sammy bottles, and since I've moved to a bench capper, I've experienced next to no problems. The very rare flat bottle I have to attribute to User Error. And some of my bottles I've been using since I first started brewing, about three years ago. I know bench cappers are considered the top-of-the-line, but I'm using a Red Baron wing capper. I've done some dry runs on Sam Adams and generic long-neck bottles just to get the feel for using the Red Baron. Like Dave said, the times I've screwed up were due to Operator Error, not a problem with the capper. But, I'd like to reduce OE to a minimum. Are there any tips/techniques to use to get the best results with a wing capper? I'm bottling my first MB batch tomorrow. Jack
  15. Thanks guys. Think I'll go the sanitizer route with Star San. Jack
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