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Everything posted by samueld

  1. That's interesting, especially considering common knowledge says that warmer temperatures promotes ester production. In any case, Ester flavors are commonly short lived and will disappear after the conditioning time that you are planning. It is likely that it could even come out super clean despite how fruity it is during its young beer stage. No worries!
  2. For all size kegs, the same amount of pressure is needed to reach the same level of carbonation when they're at the same temperature. For your average carbonation of 2.5 CO2 volumes, set the regulator at about 12 psi for about a week while the keg is refrigerated.
  3. That is an epic glass. And that label is something to live by. You're doin' it right.
  4. I have tried it. The patriot lager is neutral enough in flavor to really bring out the flavor of falconers flight, which is flavors of peach, apricot, and mango. The fruity flavors of the hops stand out the most if you dry hop with it for 5 to 7 days.
  5. As a sidenote, I once did an experiment with pitching rates for a Saison I made. I made roughly 10 gallons of the same wort, split it in half. In one batch, I pitched a single vial of Saison Blend yeast from White labs, and in the other I pitched the same type of yeast vial (same age) that was grown from a starter. The wort that the starter built up yeast was pitched into would be the theoretical "proper pitching rate" batch. Both came out well, but the proper pitched batch was cleaner and somewhat less complex in comparison to the "underpitched" batch. The "underpitched" was much more spicy, clovy, fruity, and basically more of what a saison should be. In my opinion and many others opinion, the underpitched was far better. So, you know, don't go chasing waterfalls.
  6. Assuming you end up with a 2.13 gallon batch of wort at 1.074, and are shooting for 0.75 million cells per mil per degree plato, which is the kind of catch all (but not exclusive!) suggested pitching rate for ales that I believe Whitelab suggests, then you would need about 108 billion yeast cells. this makes you just about 8 billion cells short of the *suggested catch all* priming rate. I wouldn't worry one bit about it - you're in the ball park. Also, a lower pitching rate encourages more yeast growth, which means more production of fruity esters. That is why some breweries often suggest underpitching for your wheat beers.
  7. And exactly what RickBeer said. LME is not an adjunct. An adjunct is usually considered to be some sort of fermentable that does not derive from malt. The typical adjunct (ie cane sugar, molasses, etc.) should never make up more than roughly 33% of the fermentables' gravity contribution. Some advise no more than 10% or 15% for honey. This is because they offer an imbalance of simple highly fermentable sugars (not including maltose) and not enough of other necessary nutrients that the yeast require to be healthy and produce clean tasting beer.
  8. It's not a terrible idea if you are looking to make some sort of high alcohol beer. Basically, 2 deluxe patriots combined in the LBK as a potential of roughly 8.6% ABV. I may suggest dry hopping the beer or something to put some extra life into such a recipe.
  9. I know, it is tempting to enjoy your bottles before it is prime, but patience truly is a virtue in this situation! I like to say it is the one unmentioned vital ingredient in a brew.
  10. When bottling lager beer, the ideal is to continue to keep it in the same fermentation range as it was prior (10-13C). It should be kept at this temperature for no less than 2 weeks, and more ideally about 30 days, before the bottles can be stored and aged at refrigerator temp. There are some who prefer to actually store the bottles at room temperature to speed up the process. This can be done without too much risk of off flavors (lager yeast can produce excessive sulfury flavors at room temp) since the bulk of fermentation has already past. Though, there is a slight risk of changing the flavor the beer (that's why it is okay, but not ideal).
  11. The Classic American Light is such a low gravity beer and the yeast used is so flocculent (sediments very well) that 2 weeks is sufficient and cold crashing isn't really necessary. You can of course wait 3 weeks with no real adverse effects to the flavor, and it would definitely be clear as ever, even without cold crashing.
  12. What kind of beer are you brewing?
  13. This is true, and we have the best place to meet up: Sentinel Peak. It's the new brewery that just opened up on Grant and Swan. I'm currently the brewer for them. Check it, we've even got a whole shelf of Mr. Beer products set up there.
  14. Couldn't have said it better. Welcome Back!
  15. That all depends on what you want in the beer. I would always approach making a beer thinking "how do I want this beer to taste, and what do I need to do to make taste like that?", rather then "what should I add?" The 2 hmes and 2 lmes will make a great traditional english nutbrown ale with nutty, roasty, flavors and a well balanced profile. I honestly don't think much needs to be added at all. But otherwise, your beer could always be dry hopped with some hops such as 1/2 oz of fuggle. This would add a bit more piney aroma to the beer - if you want that in it.
  16. For the most part, there isn't too much you can do to change it. Plenty of aging does reduce the amount of esters and other off flavors produced to an extent. Don't worry, beer can be pretty forgiving when given time. Fun Fact: Yeast is most sensitive to extreme temperatures during the first few days of fermentation: During the lag phase and aerobic respiration phase (This is between 24 and 72 hours).
  17. In regards to the fear of botulism, here are some fun facts - The FDA determines the safety of food based on a value known as its water activity. An object's water activity is essentially the measurement of its own moisture content on a scale of 0 to 1. The lower the water activity, the more void of moisture the food item is. In order for botulism to occur in food, very specific conditions must occur. C. botulinum requires an anaerobic, low-salt, low-sugar, low-acidic environment with a water activity of at least 0.93 in order to grow. Fortunately, hopped malt extract is one of the least likely environments for botulism to occur due to many factors. First off, malt extract is produced by removing the water out of wort, leaving behind sugars in a thick, syrupy consistence. It is extremely saturated in sugars, and for this reason also has an extremely low aw of 0.60. For reference, honey, a common food item renown for it's convenient storage ability, has a nearly identical aw of 0.55-0.60. If that wasn't enough, hopped malt extract is also saturated in alpha acids, derived from hops. Hops have been used in brewing for centuries, not just for the wonderful flavor and bitterness that it leaves in the beer, but also for their antimicrobial properties. An average beer contains between 11 and 70 IBUs. In their condensed forms, our hopped malt extracts contain a whopping 141 to 590 IBUs. As stated before, this is nowhere near a low-acid environment favorable for botulism to occur. For this reason you can be rest assured that, even if a can is dented or punctured, there is no risk for botulism to occur.
  18. From my calcs, just looking at the 4 lbs of LME and 1 lb of sugar alone has an OG potential of 1.091 in a 2.13 gallon batch, with a likely FG around 1.023 hence ABV around 9%. Seems hefty for a dubbel! I might cut the Pils LME back to only 2.5# and your candi sugar down to about 0.5#. Not looking at the steeping grains, that should get your OG around 1.072, and a potential 7 to 7.5% ABV (closer to style).
  19. That's strange that it had no carbonation after that long. What temperature did you leave these bottles at? As for the alcohol content, gauging it based on how you felt really isn't an effective way. I can guarantee as long as you made sure to dissolve all of the given ingredients that go into the Abbey Dubbel and transferred it all to the fermenter, topped it up to 8.5 qts, you're original gravity should have been around 1.056 to 1.059, and with the given fermentables and yeast, the final gravity should finish to 1.010 to 1.012. This give a range of alcohol before bottling well around 6% ABV. When I made it, I got 6.13% before bottling.
  20. Its actually cheaper on the Mr. Beer website, especially after shipping. Hydrometer - $5.95 Hydrometer with Test jar - $9.44
  21. sounds good, I also like the name! How was the fermentation? I would assume it was mighty violent.
  22. Welcome back! Sorry to hear what happened to your family, I could only imagine what that is like to go through. Glad to see you come back to the forum and best of luck with your nano brewery!
  23. I'd agree with that, docpd, since you get more surface area contact with the beer. But it can lead to a clogged spigot if you are using a Mr. Beer fermenter, Cheaptrix, so I may steer clear from going commando. That is with your hops I mean. You can do anything you want with your body...just don't post it.
  24. You could use them. It all depends on what you are going for. Actually I would go ahead and suggest a 10 minute hop boil of your half ounce of cascade after the grain steep. It'll give nice citrusy myrceney flavors in the beer.
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