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Everything posted by philm00x

  1. I find 2-3 days is plenty to help drop particles out of suspension and clear up the beer. The only time I ever really do a cold crash though is if I didn't strain the wort when pouring into the LBK, or like a batch I bottled today that I dry hopped, so I can get the hop particles sunk down to the bottom. I'm not too particular about the beer appearing clear or cloudy. It won't change the taste of it.
  2. You can always brew the same batch over and over and experiment, varying the time and the amount of hops and see which gives you a preferred result. My first dry hopped beer is going into bottles today. I dry hopped it for 10 days using an ounce of hops, including a cold crash over the last 3 days. I cold crashed because I threw the hops in commando, and I wanted to be sure that the particles sank to the bottom to minimize getting hop gunk into the bottled beer.
  3. Welcome to the Borg! Brewing is great fun, and I'm happy my wife brought me my first kit for our anniversary last year.
  4. 1/2 teaspoon per bottle is what I usually use regardless of style, but you can use the Bottle Priming Calculator on http://www.thescrewybrewer.com/p/brewing-tools-formulas.html to help you calculate a more precise amount depending on style of beer and your fermentation temps.
  5. Murican Wheat AG with some Ropa Vieja (literally translates to Old Clothes), which is a Cuban dish of slow cooked roast or flank steak (steak in my case), pulled and shredded, then simmered in a tomato based sauce. Served over white rice. It was delicious! My AG reproduction nailed the flavor, with the mango note I love from the FF hops.
  6. chillin in there, waiting for the concacaf gold cup final, usa vs panama.
  7. Setting up in Australia? Looks like a heck of a spot to keep all the brew stuff!
  8. On my brew day for my Belgian pale ale, I smacked my Ardennes pack and thought I had popped open the pack of nutrient for the yeast. I was concerned because the pack never really swelled much. Come to find out when I was going to pitch, that the nutrient pack never opened. So what I did was dunk my hands in Star San, reached inside and cut the nutrient pack open and poured it into the yeast slurry, then sloshed it around a bit and pitched it. Yeast was active within 12 hours of pitching.
  9. Nice!! Glad ya finally got to brew, Jim!
  10. Were you weighing it with the ambient room temperature at 80*F or was the temperature of the water 80*F? The density of water depends on the temperature of the fluid itself, not the ambient room temperature. In any case, that's pretty crazy how inaccurate the measuring cups can be.
  11. I dry hopped my Belgian pale ale yesterday, commando. Just opened the lid of the LBK, threw em in quickly (expecting a lot of foaming but none was to be had, whew!) and closed the lid back up.
  12. Just saw FIT in there, but I was replying to threads in here. Come back!
  13. 1 oz of calypso for dry hop added today. Gonna cold crash it after a week or so, since I poured the pellets in commando.
  14. With the fall approaching, I decided I'm going to put this beer on the brew queue. Only I'm converting it to an all-grain recipe, and also making a few tweaks to it. Initially I was going to use British 2-row, but then I thought to use Maris Otter instead, to lend some biscuity flavor to the malt. Also, going to use 40L crystal instead of 10L and a tiny bit of honey malt for a little complexity. Hopefully this will still be a rich and malty brew that will go well with some stews or chili to warm up with. Recipe: Chocolate Brown Ale 2.0 Brewer: Mr. Rufus Brewing Co. Asst Brewer: Style: Northern English Brown Ale TYPE: All Grain Taste: (30.0) Recipe Specifications -------------------------- Boil Size: 2.56 gal Post Boil Volume: 2.34 gal Batch Size (fermenter): 2.25 gal Bottling Volume: 2.00 gal Estimated OG: 1.049 SG Estimated Color: 22.3 SRM Estimated IBU: 21.5 IBUs Brewhouse Efficiency: 72.00 % Est Mash Efficiency: 72.0 % Boil Time: 60 Minutes Ingredients: ------------ Amt Name Type # %/IBU 3 lbs 6.0 oz Pale Malt, Maris Otter (3.0 SRM) Grain 1 81.8 % 6.0 oz Caramel/Crystal Malt - 40L (40.0 SRM) Grain 2 9.1 % 4.0 oz Chocolate Malt (350.0 SRM) Grain 3 6.1 % 2.0 oz Honey Malt (25.0 SRM) Grain 4 3.0 % 0.25 oz Challenger [6.30 %] - Boil 60.0 min Hop 5 14.1 IBUs 0.50 oz Goldings, East Kent [4.50 %] - Boil 10.0 Hop 6 7.3 IBUs 1.0 pkg Nottingham (Danstar #-) [23.66 ml] Yeast 7 - Mash Schedule: Single Infusion, Light Body, Batch Sparge Total Grain Weight: 4 lbs 2.0 oz ---------------------------- Name Description Step Temperature Step Time Mash In Add 6.19 qt of water at 159.5 F 150.0 F 60 min
  15. Definitely looks like a decently hoppy, citrusy brew. If you have any leftover hops, and want to add to the aroma, I would try dry hopping for maybe 4 or 5 days. Otherwise, go with it!
  16. there was a little bit of pulp in the juice, but no. it was bacteria colonies. they poured out into a glob of brown, green, and black nastiness.
  17. Yeah, and that pic in the thread that Inkleg linked to was scary as hell. When I was pouring out the beer from the infected bottles, I poured a little bit that didn't have chunks floating in it into a glass to see the color, smell it, and yes, taste it. It tasted pretty sour, but not repulsively sour. The smell was mostly of limes and was a cloudy but bright light golden color, and very fizzy. This gives me high hopes that the uninfected lot is going to be very delicious!
  18. "Inkleg" post=389026 said:Phil, you may want to dispose of those potential bombs right now. I already did. Kept the other 18 that were clear of infection.
  19. They were mixed up, but it still baffles me that it was only the bottles that were from Bell's that have infections. I confirmed that it is infection because I opened one up that had a big mass of funky growth, like a blob, at the bottom of it, and before I could even get the whole top off, it sprayed with such force that it was about to launch into orbit! I have used those bottles before. Couldn't say what kind of homebrew they used to contain.
  20. Welcome back! Good to see you back in the saddle
  21. Your beer's all right! the hops will settle down to the bottom of the LBK. For best results, a couple to a few days before bottling, move the LBK into the fridge to cold crash. This allows hop matter, break material, and other particles to fall to the bottom of the LBK so it doesn't end up in your bottles.
  22. I cleaning out my bookcase this afternoon where I have my bottles of limeade hefeweizen. In moving the bottles out of the bookcase, I noticed something strange at the neck of one of the bottles. Took a flashlight and shined it into it, and it looks like some kind of funky infection! My stomach sank, and then I proceeded to check the rest of the bottles. To my confusion, only 6 bottles had any sign of the same type of growth inside of them. The other 18 were clear. The 6 bottles that had stuff growing in them were ALL Bell's Brewery bottles, and the rest were from other brands. I washed and sanitized all of the bottles in the same fashion, so I'm curious as to why only the Bell's bottles have stuff growing inside! The limeade I poured into the beer was Simply Limeade, which is pasteurized, so I didn't boil it before pouring into the LBK. It's all natural not from concentrate so no artificial preservatives. Any thoughts on what is going on?
  23. i ran the numbers on my computer and it yielded 43 IBUs, with OG 1.041 and FG 1.011. this for a standard 2.13 gallon LBK batch.
  24. in there, but watching the x-files
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