Jump to content
Mr.Beer Community


Community Members
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

0 Neutral

About Porthos

  • Rank
  1. "BigPapaG" post=374400 said:Any one have any experience with BeerSmith 2 (also know as BeerSmith Mobile)? I downloaded it for my iPad the other day for $7.99 but haven't had time to set it up and key in some of my existing recipies... I bought it for my iPad as well. I don't have the desktop version as I never touch my home PC anymore, so I was hoping the iPad version would have all the features. I was quickly disappointed when I found that the iPad version won't convert AG recipes to extract. I'm an extract only brewer at the moment so that is one feature I was looking for. I guess the desktop version does it. Hopefully it gets added in the future. Who knows what other desktop features are missing in the mobile version. And yes, I realize the mobile version costs less but the developers need to realize that more and more people are passing on desktops and laptops in favor of tablets. If the mobile version of BeerSmith has limited features, people will go with another option. I've read that iBrewmaster is very full featured. Too bad I already bought BeerSmith mobile, otherwise I might have went with iBrewmaster even though it costs more.
  2. I've done a few Mr. Beer brews straight up. I've also done a couple of DME hop boil brews. For my next 2 brews, I would like to use up some of the Mr. Beer HME I have on stock but combine them with my left over hops to spruce them up a bit. What I have on the shelf: 1 Mr. Beer Aztec HME 1 Mr. Beer Pilsner HME 2 Mr. Beer CAL HME 0.5 oz Halletuer Tradition 0.5 oz Centennial 0.5 oz Cascade 1 pound DME (but I can buy more)
  3. Is pitching a whole packet of S-05 or Nottingham in to a LBK with out re-hydrating considered overpitching? Just wondering as that is what I have been doing for my extract brews and they have been in the 4-6% ABV range.
  4. I like the name IBA. There is a local brewery that makes something similar but they call it a Black IPA, which is quite the oxymoron.
  5. Just to sum it up (and make sure I understand). Suppose you have 2.5 pounds of light DME and 1 oz of Cascade hops for example. Beer A: Boil 1 oz of the hops for 60 mins with the DME Beer B: Boil 1 oz of the hops for 20 mins with the DME From what I understand, you will have two very different tasting beers in terms of bitterness (and flavour), but both beers would have the same IBUs. Is this correct?
  6. "Christ872" post=363631 said:T~ No. IBUs are IBUs. If you calculate the IBU of a beer to be 39...that is and always will be how many IBUs it has. ... If you try brewing up a Weissbier with 30+ IBUs...you're at risk for getting counted off unless you enter it in the Specialty Beer category. This is one thing about IBUs that still confuses me. You can make a beer 30 IBUs with tons of bittering hops and hardly any flavour and aroma, or you can go the other way with hardly any bittering hops and lots of flavour and aroma. If you do the second, but let the beer sit for a long time so the flavour fades, then does your 30 IBU beer actually taste like a beer with lower IBUs?
  7. I've read enough to know that fermenting too high causes off-flavors, and too low can cause the yeast to go to sleep, however I never really read if temperature swings within the yeasts ideal range is ok? I've read that temperature control is important a lot, but I assume this means just don't go too high or too low. I'm fermenting a wheat beer with a yeast that has a range of 54 F to 77 F, with the ideal range between 64 F to 75 F. My fermentation air temperature in the cooler generally fluctuates between 62 F to 68 F, but I noticed it up to 71 F the first day of fermentation. Ignoring the first day, does it matter if it goes to 68 F each day, and down to 62 F at night?
  8. When I started out collecting bottles for my Mr. Beer kit that was waiting to be opened at Christmas, I started with Grolsch 450 mL swing-top bottles. The only thing is that those are green, and I heard brown was better. I eventually stumbled on Hacker Pschorr Hefe that was bottled in 500 mL brown swing-tops (same as the 0.5L ones you are talking about). I was able to pick up a case of 18 of them for $60 in Canada, so it should be cheaper in the states. I guess the $60 is more than the $40 you mentioned, but mine came with great tasting beer in them. I do agree that you get less bottles doing 500 mL instead of 12 oz, but having less bottles also makes bottling go faster, and I imagine swing-tops save some time too versus capping. Personally, I think 500 mL is a perfect amount. If I have a 12 oz, I usually want another right away, but I find 500 mL just right.
  9. Do you use Oxy? I'm not 100% sure yet, but I believe I had a metallic taste in some of my drinks due to soaking the bottles and kegs in Oxy, then just dumping before adding One Step + water to sanitize. I've since learned that Oxy leaves a residue that should be scrubbed off and rinsed a few times to get rid of it.
  10. It is still just a guess, but it was mentioned on the first page of this thread as a possible cause. I did a search and noticed on other forums that some users would also link Oxi residue to an off taste (metallic or medicinal). I haven't confirmed yet that this is the cause of my problem but right now it seems likely. I also use a no-name Oxi instead of the name branch Free stuff so maybe that is one reason. Also, I wasn't properly rinsing the residue and I use One Step instead of Starsan, so maybe Starsan is better at neutralizing whatever is left. I'll try to report back in this thread in a couple months either way.
  11. I know I'm bumping an old thread, and that no exact answer was given for the metallic taste, but I just wanted to add that I think this thread may help me with a metallic taste I have been getting in my bottled beer and kegged cider and water. From some of the responses, I'm starting to think it is due to Oxi. I never used Oxi for my first beer and it didn't have the metallic taste. However, my second batch did. I also kegged some sparkling lemon water and a cider and after tasting them last night, they both have a slight metallic taste too. What I was doing was soaking my bottles and kegs in Oxi overnight (yes, I just read that you shouldn't do this with kegs so good to know). The next morning when I was ready to use the kegs or bottles, I would dump out the Oxi, then sanitize with One-step. I think the left over Oxi residue must be causing the metallic taste. To be sure, I'll use less Oxi with my next batch, won't let it sit too long, and rinse and scrub off the residue very well. Hopefully this gets rid of that metallic taste.
  12. I did this for a cider once and it worked great. Just use a batch prime calculator to get the grams of sugar you need, then use the nutritional can info (grams of sugar) and go from there. For a MB sized batch, it worked out to about 3/4 of a can for the concentrate I used.
  13. Thanks. Maybe that is what happened. I did find a small liquid leak at the top where the hose connects to the faucet but I doubt that was the problem. I just tightened the clamp and it seems OK now.
  14. I've just got a couple simple questions relating to my new kegerator I just got running. I didn't have a beer ready to go so I decided to make some sparkling lemon water. I hooked up the 2.5 gal keg to gas at 30 for 3 days, then I dropped it down to 20 for serving. I didn't have the liquid line hooked up all this time. I just now hooked up the liquid line (after turning off the gas and bleeding the keg), however when I turned the gas back on the pressure was down to 5. The questions... is it normal to have to readjust the pressure on the regulator after hooking up the liquid line? If not, should I be concerned about a leak? Thanks in advance. I'm looking forward to getting some beer in my kegerator in the coming weeks.
  15. "haerbob3" post=333115 said:Time is valuable and that is why I went AG. Does not compute! :silly: :cheer:
  • Create New...