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zorak1066 last won the day on August 17 2018

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    good job Mr Beer! thanks for making this place feel like 'home' again.

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  1. i use clear plastic bottles from carbonated water. if i see bubbles forming on the surface of the beer it's a safe bet i have a pressure leak developing. most of the time it's caused by me screwing the caps down too hard and damaging the cap top where it is fused to the sides. i've had a bottom blow out once.. WHOOSH! BOOM YIPPEE! russian imperial stout all over the wall...ceiling... fun cleaning it up. your paper towel collar is a very clever idea.
  2. yeah... research yeast washing. youre definitely going to want to get the gunk out before repitching. you got to be really ocd on sterile conditions and sanitation too. i did yeast washing twice.. a lot of work for little savings , but still was cool to try. if you want to get all science-y and experiment.. more power to ya.
  3. or just send them to me for proper disposal.
  4. cato... 🤢 chilled beer??? gross.
  5. when i used to carb at 68f ambient... took 4 weeks. gently upend the bottle. no leak? ok. right it and put them in a cooler..close it and move it to a 72-74f room. causes for no carb? bottle cap loose. forgot to put carb drops in. yeast was stressed out from a high grav, long secondary ferment. carb temp too low.
  6. 1 carb drop to what size bottle? how long did you let it ferment? like rick said.. if you rush things and bottle prematurely you get extra co2. like kristof said- and i add chill for a couple days before trying to open. turn cap just enough to vent a little. stop. repeat after things settle down.
  7. i do a cold steep in the fridge using a sealed mason jar when using black patent or chocolate. i let it sit overnight i think.. been awhile.
  8. ive done 3 gallon batches in a 6 gallon bucket without oxidation. unless you plan on leaving it sit long after fermentation, headspace is not a problem. bulk aging is where you worry about headspace. another cause of darkening is if you do a hop boil in malt and overdo the heat ... getting a little scorching or carmelization. this too is not oxidation. different malts produce different colored wort too. rick is right as usual. i had some hobo wine get oxidized. it tastes like wet cardboard.
  9. new thought.. i would just make a 5.25 gallon batch with the 6 gallon kit. and use the 6 gallon fermenter. that will leave 3 qts of headspace... and have only a marginal impact to the style and abv. the .25 gallon would end up trub loss most likely so you will have 5 gallons to bottle. the beer will be a little stronger than you intended but for me? i could live with that.
  10. lbk ferments 2 gallons and has i think 3 gallons of space total. you need headspace while fermenting unless you want krausen shooting out all over the place. you can split a 6 gallon recipe with 2 gallons and a quarter of water each lbk and stop there. you are making 4.5 gallons using 6 gallons worth of fermentables split into 2 lbks. this will ratchet up the alcohol content of your product. i'll knock it down to just 2 gallons each lbk. for a lark i plugged 6 gallon batch, 10 lbs of pale lme into a recipe engine. then i scaled it to 2 gallons and halved the lme to 5#. it added 3 pts to the starting gravity. a 1.056 gravity 6 gallon beer would turn to a 1.086 gravity 2 gallon beer. so you would no longer have the same style end product. if you put 6 gallons of wort in a 6 gallon bucket... you are still looking at a god awful mess. worse yet, the hole in the lid will clog with krausen and BOOM. i had a very violent fermentation with FIVE gallons in a SIX point five gallon fermenter.. plenty of headspace. it churned out so much krausen that it clogged the airlock. the lid swelled to near exploding. i had krausen shooting out the airlock hose prior to this... had it blew i would have had a geyser of dark brown black foam and stout to clean up. get TWO 6 gallon buckets. or two five gallon and split the wort evenly betwen the two buckets. does yeast care if you toss a 1.08 gravity wort at it vs a 1.05 gravity wort? maybe. if you underpitch, use old tired yeast.. definitely. if you pitch fresh yeast and the right amount for the job? no. it wouldnt care. more food.. more party. yay! yeast pitch calculators are your friend. trub is a natural byproduct of yeast eating. it is essentially yeast poop, dead yeast, sleeping yeast, fat, hop dust, grain dust, etc. you can approximate the amount of trub that you will get in the bucket and compensate by adding more water to increase the final volume (less loss due to trub)... but that means you need bigger buckets. i just accept the attrition due to trub loss and accept the final product as it will have a slightly higher abv at 4.5 gallons for instance with a half gallon trub loss than 5 gallons with none. hope this makes sense.. im tired and rambling.
  11. s33 from what ive read is a potentially lazy yeast that likes to drop out . if you dont mind esters you can keep it at the upper end of the recommend temperature range, and try to wake it up with a little jarring of the fermenter. (no sloshing). ive never used a fast fermenter.. as noted no airlock activity is not a good indicator of fermentation activity. when i do buckets i get next to no activity sometimes because the gaskets leak co2. if you measured your original gravity you can draw another sample and check to see if the gravity has dropped any.
  12. nah... its hillwilliams with money and boats, and pickup trucks with american flags in the back and gunracks... no pixley to our hooterville.
  13. the town i am living in now in short: all the roads are 55 mph except the main drag which is 45. we have a tractor supply store. . . a feed store.. .and ppl ship live chicks through the post office which is about as large as a mister beer lbk.. well, not really but you get the idea. we have 2 grocers. walmart.. and one that has prices that are ridiculous. to get a couple bars on my cell i literally would have to climb a telephone pole. the best i can manage is one bar. we have about 1000 churches and nearly as many bars. exagerating.. but not really. the city refuses to pick up yard waste. you have to bring it to the local 'landfill' yourself ... and pay. i went from a population nearly 400k town to a population of about 4k unless you count cows and the stray dogs held at the animal shelter. we have spiders the size of small children and mosquitos as big as birds... so picture Hooterville or Bugtussle and this is my new 'hell' for the next year. wonder if i can brew with horse feed? oh and the local sherriff website reports that we have 59 registered sex offenders within a 5 mile radius of my house. lol.. welcome to florida.
  14. cluster and galena are bitter. willamette might be an ok addition but ive always been partial to saaz. to add you can do a small lme boil with a qtr oz of willamette for maybe 10 minutes then add to the lbk. or just put them in a hop sack and dry hop. dont boil mr beer hme. doing so drives off the hop oils they worked so hard to put in.
  15. bottle it and forget about it for a couple months. store the bottles in a room that is 70f+ to carbonate. carbing is backwards from fermenting. when carbing, warm rooms are your friend. aging a beer allows flavors to meld, mellow and this is called 'conditioning'. hops over time get smoother, less pronounced. grains come forward a bit. off flavors like apple soften to a degree. brew an ipa. after conditioning 4 weeks try one. you will be hit with an in your face hop intensity. let it sit for a year. you will have a totally different beer. btw welcome to brewing... sadly this forum isnt the busiest place like it used to be but welcome anyway.
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