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Everything posted by zorak1066

  1. i use clear plastic bottles from carbonated water. if i see bubbles forming on the surface of the beer it's a safe bet i have a pressure leak developing. most of the time it's caused by me screwing the caps down too hard and damaging the cap top where it is fused to the sides. i've had a bottom blow out once.. WHOOSH! BOOM YIPPEE! russian imperial stout all over the wall...ceiling... fun cleaning it up. your paper towel collar is a very clever idea.
  2. yeah... research yeast washing. youre definitely going to want to get the gunk out before repitching. you got to be really ocd on sterile conditions and sanitation too. i did yeast washing twice.. a lot of work for little savings , but still was cool to try. if you want to get all science-y and experiment.. more power to ya.
  3. or just send them to me for proper disposal.
  4. cato... 🤢 chilled beer??? gross.
  5. when i used to carb at 68f ambient... took 4 weeks. gently upend the bottle. no leak? ok. right it and put them in a cooler..close it and move it to a 72-74f room. causes for no carb? bottle cap loose. forgot to put carb drops in. yeast was stressed out from a high grav, long secondary ferment. carb temp too low.
  6. 1 carb drop to what size bottle? how long did you let it ferment? like rick said.. if you rush things and bottle prematurely you get extra co2. like kristof said- and i add chill for a couple days before trying to open. turn cap just enough to vent a little. stop. repeat after things settle down.
  7. i do a cold steep in the fridge using a sealed mason jar when using black patent or chocolate. i let it sit overnight i think.. been awhile.
  8. ive done 3 gallon batches in a 6 gallon bucket without oxidation. unless you plan on leaving it sit long after fermentation, headspace is not a problem. bulk aging is where you worry about headspace. another cause of darkening is if you do a hop boil in malt and overdo the heat ... getting a little scorching or carmelization. this too is not oxidation. different malts produce different colored wort too. rick is right as usual. i had some hobo wine get oxidized. it tastes like wet cardboard.
  9. new thought.. i would just make a 5.25 gallon batch with the 6 gallon kit. and use the 6 gallon fermenter. that will leave 3 qts of headspace... and have only a marginal impact to the style and abv. the .25 gallon would end up trub loss most likely so you will have 5 gallons to bottle. the beer will be a little stronger than you intended but for me? i could live with that.
  10. lbk ferments 2 gallons and has i think 3 gallons of space total. you need headspace while fermenting unless you want krausen shooting out all over the place. you can split a 6 gallon recipe with 2 gallons and a quarter of water each lbk and stop there. you are making 4.5 gallons using 6 gallons worth of fermentables split into 2 lbks. this will ratchet up the alcohol content of your product. i'll knock it down to just 2 gallons each lbk. for a lark i plugged 6 gallon batch, 10 lbs of pale lme into a recipe engine. then i scaled it to 2 gallons and halved the lme to 5#. it added 3 pts to the starting gravity. a 1.056 gravity 6 gallon beer would turn to a 1.086 gravity 2 gallon beer. so you would no longer have the same style end product. if you put 6 gallons of wort in a 6 gallon bucket... you are still looking at a god awful mess. worse yet, the hole in the lid will clog with krausen and BOOM. i had a very violent fermentation with FIVE gallons in a SIX point five gallon fermenter.. plenty of headspace. it churned out so much krausen that it clogged the airlock. the lid swelled to near exploding. i had krausen shooting out the airlock hose prior to this... had it blew i would have had a geyser of dark brown black foam and stout to clean up. get TWO 6 gallon buckets. or two five gallon and split the wort evenly betwen the two buckets. does yeast care if you toss a 1.08 gravity wort at it vs a 1.05 gravity wort? maybe. if you underpitch, use old tired yeast.. definitely. if you pitch fresh yeast and the right amount for the job? no. it wouldnt care. more food.. more party. yay! yeast pitch calculators are your friend. trub is a natural byproduct of yeast eating. it is essentially yeast poop, dead yeast, sleeping yeast, fat, hop dust, grain dust, etc. you can approximate the amount of trub that you will get in the bucket and compensate by adding more water to increase the final volume (less loss due to trub)... but that means you need bigger buckets. i just accept the attrition due to trub loss and accept the final product as it will have a slightly higher abv at 4.5 gallons for instance with a half gallon trub loss than 5 gallons with none. hope this makes sense.. im tired and rambling.
  11. s33 from what ive read is a potentially lazy yeast that likes to drop out . if you dont mind esters you can keep it at the upper end of the recommend temperature range, and try to wake it up with a little jarring of the fermenter. (no sloshing). ive never used a fast fermenter.. as noted no airlock activity is not a good indicator of fermentation activity. when i do buckets i get next to no activity sometimes because the gaskets leak co2. if you measured your original gravity you can draw another sample and check to see if the gravity has dropped any.
  12. nah... its hillwilliams with money and boats, and pickup trucks with american flags in the back and gunracks... no pixley to our hooterville.
  13. the town i am living in now in short: all the roads are 55 mph except the main drag which is 45. we have a tractor supply store. . . a feed store.. .and ppl ship live chicks through the post office which is about as large as a mister beer lbk.. well, not really but you get the idea. we have 2 grocers. walmart.. and one that has prices that are ridiculous. to get a couple bars on my cell i literally would have to climb a telephone pole. the best i can manage is one bar. we have about 1000 churches and nearly as many bars. exagerating.. but not really. the city refuses to pick up yard waste. you have to bring it to the local 'landfill' yourself ... and pay. i went from a population nearly 400k town to a population of about 4k unless you count cows and the stray dogs held at the animal shelter. we have spiders the size of small children and mosquitos as big as birds... so picture Hooterville or Bugtussle and this is my new 'hell' for the next year. wonder if i can brew with horse feed? oh and the local sherriff website reports that we have 59 registered sex offenders within a 5 mile radius of my house. lol.. welcome to florida.
  14. cluster and galena are bitter. willamette might be an ok addition but ive always been partial to saaz. to add you can do a small lme boil with a qtr oz of willamette for maybe 10 minutes then add to the lbk. or just put them in a hop sack and dry hop. dont boil mr beer hme. doing so drives off the hop oils they worked so hard to put in.
  15. bottle it and forget about it for a couple months. store the bottles in a room that is 70f+ to carbonate. carbing is backwards from fermenting. when carbing, warm rooms are your friend. aging a beer allows flavors to meld, mellow and this is called 'conditioning'. hops over time get smoother, less pronounced. grains come forward a bit. off flavors like apple soften to a degree. brew an ipa. after conditioning 4 weeks try one. you will be hit with an in your face hop intensity. let it sit for a year. you will have a totally different beer. btw welcome to brewing... sadly this forum isnt the busiest place like it used to be but welcome anyway.
  16. room temp 68-70... equals ... inside fermentation temp of 78-85f . yes... too hot. too hot = yeast pee out acetaldehyde = green apple taste. that being said, the hardest lesson for the new brewer is patience and temperature control. get a stick on thermometer from mr beer. stick it on your lbk. look up how to build a fermentation chiller box. you can make a simple one from an igloo cooler, an aquarium thermometer and a 1 liter bottle of ice. experiment with the amount of ice and note how long it keeps termperatures in the cooler at the level desired. shoot for an ambient temp of 62-64f for most ales. too cold? yeast will go sleepies. too hot, yeast make sour apple juice. dont get discouraged. your first 3 beer kits will most likely be a disappointment. persist. learn. you get better. ---- suggestions in you tube video for ruining mr beer kits? the world is full of 'experts'. most dont know jack. the sage advice i gleaned from here ages ago was this: new brewers should do a couple kits exactly as instructed to see the process, what happens, and how they come out. over time you can get experiemental and add things. dont chase alcohol content. chase flavor. add extra stuff to a recipe you change the recipe and no longer match the style. i once added tons of brown sugar to a stout. gack. brown sugar is cane sugar with mollasses. the yeast eat the sugar and leave the mollasses so i ended up with licorice flavored 'stout'. no longer stout. if you added the extra fermentables at the start of the process you can probably go ahead and bottle. just dont expect great beer. remember too that tasting beer in midferment will produce a different flavor than after it has carbed and conditioned. age is your friend...as is patience. --- toss beer? are you nuts? even the appleyist crappy beer is still alcohol. add something to the glass like a shot of bourbon to cut the apple. acetaldehyde wont kill you. the beauty of mr beer and home brewing is that you can drink your mistakes.. most of the time... unless you got a really bad infection like ecoli or acetobacter (vinegar).
  17. my lhbs closed a couple years ago. dude retired after 20 plus years of business. now i can drive to pensacola or gainsville or jax to shop.... and spend as much as a 5 gallon kits on gas money.. or buy from inbev owned companies like NB... or stop brewing. doesnt matter. havent brewed in over 4 months since getting evicted by ahol3 landlord's wife due to divorce. went from living in purgatory to living in hell . my new home is in a place that makes hooterville from green acres look like manhattan. shoot me. shoot me now.
  18. " The Facebook Group is to help new users connect and share their brewing experiences. We want the group to be an inviting place where questions get answered. " i thought that was the purpose of these forums. this is a place that meets all those criteria. facebook is vile. i dont understand the need for some ppl to expose every aspect of their personal life on social media. oh look everyone.. i just passed a log! here's a photo! (stoolenvy has liked your post). yay! my post was liked! look everyone! i'm so excited that im going to hawaii next week! (photo of self with tickets taken in front of wall of expensive stereo equipment) .. hope i dont get robbed while im gone lol!... everyone here is relatively polite , patient and helpful with newbies. this place is like a haven of calm and help for the new brewer. i'm starting to wonder why the old guard at mr beer have been jumping ship there. hopefully you guys dont go nutso like you did with the radical and uncalled for forum changes that caused many of us to leave years ago.
  19. you could always try something like this https://www.northernbrewer.com/collections/mini-kegs/products/mini-keg
  20. unless a jug or bottle was manufactured to hold carbonated bevvies... i would not carb/bottle in it. you risk bottle bombs of epic proportions. same thing for plastic bottles. i reuse my plastic carbonated water bottles for beer. they never see sunlight so no worries on UV skunking. they were made to hold CO2 at about the same levels as beer so ...
  21. rick my glass hydrometer is from when i first started brewing ages ago... it hasnt killed itself yet. the only piece of original equipment to commit suicide was my bottling wand... and it was plastic. while removing the tubing i heard SNAP.. sadness. i find that by singing to my hydrometer as i lovingly unwrap it for use... and when i clean it, that it stays happy and healthy.
  22. another thing i discovered with a refractometer.. if you dont stir the wort to mix it up before taking a measure, you get layers of different gravity. i would leave the wort sit and then get to measuring the grav with the refractometer and wonder why i was always missing my target og.
  23. creeps... beer has all the nutrient your body ever will need.they even named a vitamin after it.. vitamin B for Beer. no need to clutter it up with fruit. ive been drinking beer for ages and i'm in the best shape i've ever been in... round.
  24. fruit??? in beer? ptooey! yeah.. dumping in tons of fermentables when the yeast has chewed through the wort can cause messy fruit volcanoes.
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