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zorak1066

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Everything posted by zorak1066

  1. new thought.. i would just make a 5.25 gallon batch with the 6 gallon kit. and use the 6 gallon fermenter. that will leave 3 qts of headspace... and have only a marginal impact to the style and abv. the .25 gallon would end up trub loss most likely so you will have 5 gallons to bottle. the beer will be a little stronger than you intended but for me? i could live with that.
  2. lbk ferments 2 gallons and has i think 3 gallons of space total. you need headspace while fermenting unless you want krausen shooting out all over the place. you can split a 6 gallon recipe with 2 gallons and a quarter of water each lbk and stop there. you are making 4.5 gallons using 6 gallons worth of fermentables split into 2 lbks. this will ratchet up the alcohol content of your product. i'll knock it down to just 2 gallons each lbk. for a lark i plugged 6 gallon batch, 10 lbs of pale lme into a recipe engine. then i scaled it to 2 gallons and halved the lme to 5#. it added 3 pts to the starting gravity. a 1.056 gravity 6 gallon beer would turn to a 1.086 gravity 2 gallon beer. so you would no longer have the same style end product. if you put 6 gallons of wort in a 6 gallon bucket... you are still looking at a god awful mess. worse yet, the hole in the lid will clog with krausen and BOOM. i had a very violent fermentation with FIVE gallons in a SIX point five gallon fermenter.. plenty of headspace. it churned out so much krausen that it clogged the airlock. the lid swelled to near exploding. i had krausen shooting out the airlock hose prior to this... had it blew i would have had a geyser of dark brown black foam and stout to clean up. get TWO 6 gallon buckets. or two five gallon and split the wort evenly betwen the two buckets. does yeast care if you toss a 1.08 gravity wort at it vs a 1.05 gravity wort? maybe. if you underpitch, use old tired yeast.. definitely. if you pitch fresh yeast and the right amount for the job? no. it wouldnt care. more food.. more party. yay! yeast pitch calculators are your friend. trub is a natural byproduct of yeast eating. it is essentially yeast poop, dead yeast, sleeping yeast, fat, hop dust, grain dust, etc. you can approximate the amount of trub that you will get in the bucket and compensate by adding more water to increase the final volume (less loss due to trub)... but that means you need bigger buckets. i just accept the attrition due to trub loss and accept the final product as it will have a slightly higher abv at 4.5 gallons for instance with a half gallon trub loss than 5 gallons with none. hope this makes sense.. im tired and rambling.
  3. s33 from what ive read is a potentially lazy yeast that likes to drop out . if you dont mind esters you can keep it at the upper end of the recommend temperature range, and try to wake it up with a little jarring of the fermenter. (no sloshing). ive never used a fast fermenter.. as noted no airlock activity is not a good indicator of fermentation activity. when i do buckets i get next to no activity sometimes because the gaskets leak co2. if you measured your original gravity you can draw another sample and check to see if the gravity has dropped any.
  4. nah... its hillwilliams with money and boats, and pickup trucks with american flags in the back and gunracks... no pixley to our hooterville.
  5. the town i am living in now in short: all the roads are 55 mph except the main drag which is 45. we have a tractor supply store. . . a feed store.. .and ppl ship live chicks through the post office which is about as large as a mister beer lbk.. well, not really but you get the idea. we have 2 grocers. walmart.. and one that has prices that are ridiculous. to get a couple bars on my cell i literally would have to climb a telephone pole. the best i can manage is one bar. we have about 1000 churches and nearly as many bars. exagerating.. but not really. the city refuses to pick up yard waste. you have to bring it to the local 'landfill' yourself ... and pay. i went from a population nearly 400k town to a population of about 4k unless you count cows and the stray dogs held at the animal shelter. we have spiders the size of small children and mosquitos as big as birds... so picture Hooterville or Bugtussle and this is my new 'hell' for the next year. wonder if i can brew with horse feed? oh and the local sherriff website reports that we have 59 registered sex offenders within a 5 mile radius of my house. lol.. welcome to florida.
  6. cluster and galena are bitter. willamette might be an ok addition but ive always been partial to saaz. to add you can do a small lme boil with a qtr oz of willamette for maybe 10 minutes then add to the lbk. or just put them in a hop sack and dry hop. dont boil mr beer hme. doing so drives off the hop oils they worked so hard to put in.
  7. bottle it and forget about it for a couple months. store the bottles in a room that is 70f+ to carbonate. carbing is backwards from fermenting. when carbing, warm rooms are your friend. aging a beer allows flavors to meld, mellow and this is called 'conditioning'. hops over time get smoother, less pronounced. grains come forward a bit. off flavors like apple soften to a degree. brew an ipa. after conditioning 4 weeks try one. you will be hit with an in your face hop intensity. let it sit for a year. you will have a totally different beer. btw welcome to brewing... sadly this forum isnt the busiest place like it used to be but welcome anyway.
  8. room temp 68-70... equals ... inside fermentation temp of 78-85f . yes... too hot. too hot = yeast pee out acetaldehyde = green apple taste. that being said, the hardest lesson for the new brewer is patience and temperature control. get a stick on thermometer from mr beer. stick it on your lbk. look up how to build a fermentation chiller box. you can make a simple one from an igloo cooler, an aquarium thermometer and a 1 liter bottle of ice. experiment with the amount of ice and note how long it keeps termperatures in the cooler at the level desired. shoot for an ambient temp of 62-64f for most ales. too cold? yeast will go sleepies. too hot, yeast make sour apple juice. dont get discouraged. your first 3 beer kits will most likely be a disappointment. persist. learn. you get better. ---- suggestions in you tube video for ruining mr beer kits? the world is full of 'experts'. most dont know jack. the sage advice i gleaned from here ages ago was this: new brewers should do a couple kits exactly as instructed to see the process, what happens, and how they come out. over time you can get experiemental and add things. dont chase alcohol content. chase flavor. add extra stuff to a recipe you change the recipe and no longer match the style. i once added tons of brown sugar to a stout. gack. brown sugar is cane sugar with mollasses. the yeast eat the sugar and leave the mollasses so i ended up with licorice flavored 'stout'. no longer stout. if you added the extra fermentables at the start of the process you can probably go ahead and bottle. just dont expect great beer. remember too that tasting beer in midferment will produce a different flavor than after it has carbed and conditioned. age is your friend...as is patience. --- toss beer? are you nuts? even the appleyist crappy beer is still alcohol. add something to the glass like a shot of bourbon to cut the apple. acetaldehyde wont kill you. the beauty of mr beer and home brewing is that you can drink your mistakes.. most of the time... unless you got a really bad infection like ecoli or acetobacter (vinegar).
  9. my lhbs closed a couple years ago. dude retired after 20 plus years of business. now i can drive to pensacola or gainsville or jax to shop.... and spend as much as a 5 gallon kits on gas money.. or buy from inbev owned companies like NB... or stop brewing. doesnt matter. havent brewed in over 4 months since getting evicted by ahol3 landlord's wife due to divorce. went from living in purgatory to living in hell . my new home is in a place that makes hooterville from green acres look like manhattan. shoot me. shoot me now.
  10. " The Facebook Group is to help new users connect and share their brewing experiences. We want the group to be an inviting place where questions get answered. " i thought that was the purpose of these forums. this is a place that meets all those criteria. facebook is vile. i dont understand the need for some ppl to expose every aspect of their personal life on social media. oh look everyone.. i just passed a log! here's a photo! (stoolenvy has liked your post). yay! my post was liked! look everyone! i'm so excited that im going to hawaii next week! (photo of self with tickets taken in front of wall of expensive stereo equipment) .. hope i dont get robbed while im gone lol!... everyone here is relatively polite , patient and helpful with newbies. this place is like a haven of calm and help for the new brewer. i'm starting to wonder why the old guard at mr beer have been jumping ship there. hopefully you guys dont go nutso like you did with the radical and uncalled for forum changes that caused many of us to leave years ago.
  11. you could always try something like this https://www.northernbrewer.com/collections/mini-kegs/products/mini-keg
  12. unless a jug or bottle was manufactured to hold carbonated bevvies... i would not carb/bottle in it. you risk bottle bombs of epic proportions. same thing for plastic bottles. i reuse my plastic carbonated water bottles for beer. they never see sunlight so no worries on UV skunking. they were made to hold CO2 at about the same levels as beer so ...
  13. rick my glass hydrometer is from when i first started brewing ages ago... it hasnt killed itself yet. the only piece of original equipment to commit suicide was my bottling wand... and it was plastic. while removing the tubing i heard SNAP.. sadness. i find that by singing to my hydrometer as i lovingly unwrap it for use... and when i clean it, that it stays happy and healthy.
  14. another thing i discovered with a refractometer.. if you dont stir the wort to mix it up before taking a measure, you get layers of different gravity. i would leave the wort sit and then get to measuring the grav with the refractometer and wonder why i was always missing my target og.
  15. creeps... beer has all the nutrient your body ever will need.they even named a vitamin after it.. vitamin B for Beer. no need to clutter it up with fruit. ive been drinking beer for ages and i'm in the best shape i've ever been in... round.
  16. fruit??? in beer? ptooey! yeah.. dumping in tons of fermentables when the yeast has chewed through the wort can cause messy fruit volcanoes.
  17. this is what using a collar hopes to prevent....
  18. if you ferment in a big enough fermenter you will never need a collar. if your fermenter is 2 gallons and you brew a 1.5 gallon batch, it should be able to handle even a very vigorous fermentation. it's all about the headspace.. or how much room you give the wort to expand before it spews out the top. i try to have about 3 inches of headspace in my buckets and fermenters. the collar is used to keep the krausen from turning into volcano and blowing out the top of the fermenter by giving it a little extra expansion room. it isnt the style of beer that causes aggressive fermentations. it is the yeast. my 3rd mr beer kit was the diablo with some tweaks. i used us04 i think. the yeast was particularly aggressive and my 3 gallon fermenter with 1 gallon of headspace filled with krausen... shot the foam out the airlock and it continued to gush like a volcano for over a whole day.
  19. frequent backups of all your servers would help. if you are unfortunate enough to get ransomware... wipe the drive.. restore from backup.
  20. seriously though.. why would anyone do a denial of service attack on mr beer? unless Inbev is behind it? but then why would they resort to hacking? they just buy everyone that is a threat.
  21. on rehydrating yeast... i vaguely recall one of our old guard stating that anything beyond a 10-15 degree difference in temp from the rehydrating solution and the current wort temp could cause thermal shock. an unrelated point: when im doing a really high gravity ferment like hobo wine , after rehydrating i'll temper the yeast to the gravity by adding about a teaspoon of the must, stirring... let it sit for a couple minutes.. .repeat then after a few times i'll pitch. dont know about mutants. how would one know? ive never had really off fermentations that i can think of so if ive ever got mutant yeast cells they seem to do the same job. for really old yeast? yep. a starter would be ideal... ive got some really old pasteur red that will get a starter on my next hobo wine. it's way past best by date and the must will be high gravity. sometimes though i just dont have the motivation to run a starter for a day or two. getting that darn stir bar to stay put sometimes drives me nutty. yeast today are pretty amazing and really hardy. you can really be careless with them and they will still make good beer.
  22. yes. yes. yes and no. old or unwanted yeast can be boiled to kill it. i start timing when it reaches a low boil and then let it cook for about 5 minutes or so. then i flame out, cover and cool. alternatively you can add it to your boil and cook like that. you want the old yeast killed especially if you are brewing using a yeast with a desired flavor profile. you dont want any of the crud yeast surviving and potentially out-eating the good yeast. wort has tons of nutrients all on its own. if the yeast are relatively fresh (and you pitch enough) and not subjected to stress like heat/cold/or very high gravity they will do just fine. adding nutrient in the form of dead cells is like serving dessert at the start of a meal. the yeast will love you for it.. but will tuck into the dead cells or other nutrient first before tucking into the wort. any time i add nutrient be it yeast , raisins, sugar, etc... i get a little lag time added then the yeast go nuts. so absolutely not necessary in most cases. when i use tired old yeast out of necessity, or i am making something with a very high o.g. i add nutrient. i will also add a little more toward the midpoint of a high grav fermentation. example: making a belgian dubbel or trippel. these typically call for beet sugar additions. i do step feedings to keep the yeast from pigging out on junk food before they start working on the wort. the staged feedings keep them active and happy, and relatively stress free.
  23. yeast rafts take on many forms. when i use us04 i get floaty tan/orange colored clumps of yeast at multiple levels within the wort. some topside. some below. it's normal. yeast sometimes link hands and sing kumbaya for reasons only yeast know. sour producing infections look like shrike's pics. when those snotty white clumps join up they form a 'pellicle'. it's like a semi-hard protective fingernail like scale to seal off the wort below and allow the bacteria to eat all your lovely alcohol. i had a lacto bacillus infection in a pumpkin weis that looked like pic 2. big snotty white/grey bubbles. there is a difference between 'sour' and 'tart' that many people get confused on. fermenting too hot produces a cidery green apple tartness that some perceive as 'sour'. true sour is more like eating unflavored, unsweetened yogurt. sour. puckering mouth, pinchy face sour. atomic warhead candy sour. sucking on lemons sour. tart like you get in wheat beers, is more like semi ripe cherry sharpness of flavor. or perhaps real cranberry in nature. acetobacter infections produce vinegar flavors. the more alcohol the bug converts to acetic acid, the more intense the off taste until it gets so strong you can actually damage your mouth. brett-c infections produce the sour similar to a lacto infection. people intentionally brew with brett c to make various sour beers that i am not a fan of myself. infections arent that common if you exercise even the slightest good hygiene when brewing. there's an ancient thread here somewhere about Mashani's cat butt ale. lol... it's a classic.
  24. 'dont fear the foam' is the marketing line for starsan. as i am dumping the solution out of the bottles i try to swirl the bottle around to create a little vortex as it is draining. i still get some foam left behind. it's fine.
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