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Everything posted by charlieb

  1. Guess I should read the date......duh lol
  2. I'm betting it's done fermenting. You can easily ferment a wort in 10 days with an OG of 1.070. Which is about what the Marzen is. Unless you prefer to have that extra week for 'settling out' I wouldn't even sweat it. Everyone in here is assuming it's not done and saying to let it warm up and keep going. Which is 100% true. And I would do the same. However I think it's done unless your fermenting temps where really low.
  3. I agree with Beer Lord. You need more. I can tell you right now your IBUs won't be 60. Guaranteed. I don't care what Qbrew or Brewsmith is telling you. Especially with only one ounce of hops. And you can take that to bank if you are not doing a late addition with your extract and, are using hop sacks. Those are both known causes for low hop utilization. Agree with Beer lord's amounts as well. Depending on how hoppy you want it I would be inclined to add a hop around the 20 minute mark. Dry hop commando style with his suggested amounts using the late addition method and you should have a decent beer. Well that's my two cents anyways
  4. Funny I find this post. I am actually getting ready to make a post about hops/dry hopping and the usage of hop sacks. I can tell you without a doubt commando is the way to go. You will get way better aroma and flavor using less hops and less time. At this very moment I have 2 LBKs with the same wort. One has had 1oz of hops in a sack for 5 days now. Barely any aroma or hint of the hops. The other LBK has 1/2oz of the hops fermenting for just 2 days now and the aroma is amazing. The sack limits the needed oils from the hops from fully integrating into your beer. Go commando, cold crash it to drop everything out of suspension and you should have a great beer. Well that's my experience anyways
  5. I was thinking about the water to. But I'll miss my OG if I don't add it lol...... I"m going for it. I can't see why it won't work.
  6. OK I just finished boiling a batch of a simple blonde ale. It's a recipe I've slightly modified as my own. It calls for 1/2lb sugar towards the end of the boil. I totally forgot to add it. Right now my wort is cooling down. Could I boil the sugar separately and drop it into the wort before I pitch? I completely understand the cool down process will take longer. Aside from this would it have any adverse affects?
  7. I'm kinda liking the 5 gallon bucket idea. My colander works fine but me thinks I rather go the bucket route.
  8. Damn it why didn't I think of gloves? Duh!
  9. I actually squeezed the shit out of my bag lol. It was a little hot though...... Maybe that is why my OG was a bit higher than Beersmith spit out. Who knows
  10. "joejkd82" post=380922 said:2 months is super ambitious but if you get pros working on it it's certainly doable if they've got time open. I'm clearing out my basement where my keezer currently is. No bar or anything going in but my house is 90 years old and the basement was stone/rubble that was concreted over. Basically it needs patching/waterproofing, so that means getting real familiar with some hydraulic cement, drylock, and interlocking floor tiles. Be interested to hear how your Columbus blonde turns out. I've seen it listed that Columbus is a substitute for Centennial, but I think they taste nothing alike. However, Columbus is probably my favorite hop I've also seen that a more accurate proxy for Centennial is a roughly 60/40 cascade/Columbus blend. I believe the centennial blonde recipe has late cascade additions, so you should be good to go, though I think you'll end up with a bit more pine (yum!) with that 35min addition being there and this being a small beer. Should be tasty brew. Did you go BIAB? What did you mash at? I'm always looking at good ideas to make my BIAB process even easier or more efficient. Not that it matters Joe as this was my first official BIAB batch but I figured I'd chime in. I mashed at 150-155 for 60. Then set the bag in a colander and let it drain. No sparging. I'm certain I would be more efficient by sparging and whatever. But I'm trying to simplify my process. I'm aiming for consistency over efficiency. I can adjust my grain bill or mash longer accordingly to make-up for lost efficiency on recipes. People may say that is stupid but oh well. My efficiency was a bit low on this one so next time I will mash a bit longer and see how that works out. Probably nothing new here for you but just in case
  11. Two months for all of that? Possible but you better start now. NFL ticket is exclusive to Directv You could always try Firstrowsports or XBMC. You didn't hear it from me
  12. No but 2 months ain't that far off
  13. Nice segway from icing coolers into college football. I like it
  14. "Manowarfan1" post=380831 said:Thanks Charlie - I was thinking along those lines also as it is such a light bodied beer and it is not supposed to be overwhelmingly bitter, that is what the IPAs are for As the Columbus is about 60% more AA than the Centennial, I will just cut everything in half basically, well half plus a fraction whatever my scale will allow Cutting in half brings it to 19 or so bitterness in Qbrew - recipe calls for 21.5, so i figure my half plus a little "oops" will get me about where I need to be Cheers all jeff I was using qBrew and thought people who kept pushing Beersmith were snobs lol. But I saw a deal for it and picked it up. So glad I did. You can drag/adjust your desired bitterness and it will tell you how much hops to use. Pretty awesome stuff. I'm not saying go buy it, just wanted to share my very boring story
  15. I have a wort chiller so stirring it more or less not an option. However I just picked up some whirfloc so I will give that a try.
  16. I would go with Columbus since that is a listed substitue for Centenial. Maybe just reduce the amount you would use? You could plug this into beersmith and get a fairly good reading for how much.
  17. OK good to know Screwy. And I'm right about my hydro readings being off yes?
  18. I guess this is where my lack of experience is showing. I do not have a false bottom. So all the residue whether that be hot break or grain or whatever is at the bottom after I come down to temp, so it will come out into my kegs before pitching. Not all of it of course, but a good chunk. I guess this kind of goes back to my original question. If I remix this shite back into suspension, then my hydrometer readings are wrong and I could have unintended flavors.....yes?
  19. "Screwy Brewer" post=380679 said:Let the wort cool down in the kettle add an ounce of hops to it and whirlpool, this is called knockout hopping. Aroma is added to the wort as long as it's above 170F and gives the beer a different aroma than dry hopping does. Once the worts cooled down rack only the wort to your fermentor leaving the hops and coldness behind. I hate to sound stupid here but by 'whirlpool' you mean stir to create an actual whirlpool? And by doing this aren't you remixing all the stuff back together?
  20. "jivex5k" post=380675 said:I used to worry about this a lot, and about splitting the yeast in the proper amount. Spend 17 bucks on a 6.5 gallon bucket, or better yet get a bottling bucket. Then you can just siphon the wort into the bucket while leaving the break in the kettle, top it off to 5 gallons if needed, pitch the yeast and stir it up. Then split it between the two lbks. Hmmmmm....... What's more interesting about your post is the reference to the yeast. I actually use two different yeasts. I don't split my yeast. I am now washing my yeasts so the money isn't a problem. I like trying different yeasts on the same batch to see which I prefer. However pitching once and then draining into the LBK's does sound nice. Good suggestion. Thanks man!
  21. I'm not too worried about the break. It's the stuff that is either floating or sinking to the bottom. I'm more concerned with consistency and proper hydrometer readings than anything. All the "gunk" will settle out if you ask me. But again I will know for sure in a few weeks when I do a comparison.
  22. I will know for sure in about 4 weeks. One LBK has the gunk and the other doesn't. One of the nice things about dividing into two kegs. So if one tastes significantly different than the other there is my answer. If not...then stir away I will.......
  23. "Jim Johnson" post=380605 said:you stir the crap out of it anyway to aerate. i perfer to aerate in the pot no chance of scratching the lbk. i continue to stir while splitting to keep the same brew in both lbks. fwiw I do that anyways. Right now I am questioning all the 'gunk' in the wort. Do we want it in our fermentor? That is the debate I guess. Because if we want it, then I need to stir like crazy before dividing it up.
  24. "azmark" post=380602 said:just don't rack that last little bit to either keg. But how can you avoid that? If it's at the bottom where the spout is that is what comes out first. Should I just drain it down the sink? BTW what exactly is this stuff? Grain residue? Sugars? Hops?
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