Jump to content
Mr.Beer Community

charlieb

Community Members
  • Content Count

    309
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by charlieb

  1. "Trollby" post=380599 said:let it settle and leave behind, I normally only have a nice sample to taste from this Really? Hmmmm..... This last batch I mixed it up and then split into the kegs. Guessing my Hydro reading is now wrong. Crap! On that note, that means some of the settled shit will be in one keg and not another.
  2. I finally have fully committed to All Grain. My last necessary item was a wort chiller which I used this weekend. I live in hot ass Florida. So temperature control is a big issue. I am making 5 gallon batches and splitting between two LBKs. The LBK is severely convenient for me because I have them in coolers and I can easily regulate temps. Anyways I am wondering about the wort before splitting and pitching yeast. Specifically all the "stuff" floating around which by the time my wort chills falls to the bottom of the brew pot. I am assuming I would want to stir the living sh@t out of the wort before splitting to the LBKs to keep the consistency the same between the two yes? If I leave it settled at the bottom then one keg will have all the 'extra' stuff and the other will not. Guessing that affects gravity as well as the final flavor/ABV?
  3. I also used my first washed yeast on this one which is 1056. My batch should be good in a couple of weeks. Not sure it makes it to the 4th
  4. +1 to BigFloyd's comments. Specifically on how you ferment temps. I had a few batches a while back that were no so great. Actually pretty bad lol. I made some adjustments to controlling my temps including my pitching temp and I no longer have those issues any more. I'm not saying this will help you but I would look into it.
  5. Hey go to Screwy's site. He has a Qbrew database that you can download and it has the Mr. Beer stuff: http://www.thescrewybrewer.com/2010/09/qbrew-homebrewers-recipe-calculator.html I am sure other will chime in about your booster and DME questions. But what I can tell you is booster and DNE/LME are two completely different animals. You can base your entire recipe around DME but obviously not around booster.
  6. I took the picture on my iPad. No clue why it is sideways. My apologies. After I made this post I had to immediately throw the starter in my fridge. It had reached the opening and would have kept going. This is my second starter so I'm living and learning right now. I don't have a good viable measurement method such as Screwy does with the vials so I'm guessing I threw in a bit too much yeast. I basically threw in an entire washed yeast collection from a previous LBK batch. My assumption was it would be just right for LBK type batches. Right now that assumption looks wrong I also messed up my starter. I had an OG of 1.058. That clearly didn't help me. I will add less DME next time. This is Wyeast 1056
  7. So i made a starter this evening. Basically a 1 quart starter. 45 minutes into it the krausen is going nuts. I would expect to see a huge krausen a few hours in, but 45 minutes......wow. No clue why the image is sideways sorry [attachment=13846]image.jpg[/attachment]
  8. Centenial is already included in the recipe. I will look for a replacement for the Saaz then. Maybe Glacier or something.
  9. Centenial goes great with Cascade. Use it quite frequently. However I have this lonely ounce of Saaz lol and am trying to use it. The hops are sealed so rather not open until I am ready to brew. For what it is worth this is what I have so far: 9 lbs Pale Malt (2 Row) US 1 lbs Caramel/Crystal Malt - 10L 1 lbs Vienna Malt 8.0 oz Caramunich Malt 4.0 oz Cara-Pils/Dextrine 1.00 oz Ahtanum [6.00 %] - Boil 60.0 min 0.50 oz Cascade [5.50 %] - Boil 50.0 min 0.50 oz Centennial [9.00 %] - Boil 50.0 min 0.50 oz Cascade [5.50 %] - Boil 30.0 min 0.50 oz Saaz [4.00 %] - Boil 15.0 min 0.50 oz Saaz [4.00 %] - Boil 5.0 min
  10. I have a good amount of extra cascade that I'd like to use. I'd also like to use some of the other hops I have without buying any new ones aside from maybe and ounce or two to complete a possible recipe. I have some centenial and saaz hops. My thought was to use centenial at first wort then add my saaz and cascade through out the boil as needed. Then dry hop with either of them. More than likely saaz. I'm wondering if anyone has used cascade and saaz together? Right now I would have centenial, saaz and cascade. Open to suggestions to improve or enhance. Maybe adding a 4th hop? Thanks
  11. "dbark" post=375211 said:Just brewed the Centennial...Looks like it will be a great one. I switched it up just a bit for 5 gallons. Wanted a little more ABV. Went with and extra # of 2 row and 9.6 ozs of caramel malt, Vienna malt and carapils. Upped both Centennial hops additions at .33 oz instead of .25 to off set the additional grains. Also will be dry hopping .5 oz of centennial and maybe the cascades but not sure right now. Thanks for the link. I was looking for a solid tasty one to have for the summer! http://www.brewtoad.com/recipes/centennial-blonde-75 I brewed mine on Saturday. Thought hard about making a few adjustments. But I have never followed a recipe exactly so I thought now was a good time to do so and not stray. Next time I definitely will throw my own version into the mix. If you dry hop I'd go with Cascade since it's great for that type of thing
  12. "Jim Johnson" post=374493 said: "charlieb" post=374489 said: "Inkleg" post=374487 said: "charlieb" post=374475 said:I will be using washed Wyeast 1056 instead of the nottingham from the recipe. Coincidentally this will also be my first attempt at using washed yeast. Good luck with your first washed yeast. Soon it will become second nature. I've made the Centennial with 05 and Notty. Both are good, but I prefer the notty. JJ the Centennial that you enjoyed on the 4th on this month was brewed 3-30 and bottled 4-13. I was pouring what I kegged on 4-20. Thats how fast it goes from grain to glass. I have two batches, one using 05 and another using the Notty. I will harvest those. Then I can compare the 1056 with them and see which I prefer. Good times :gulp: i'm really limited by my lhbs and the next closest is atlanta. if i'm lucky a hour and a half (wouldn't count on it). in the small old fridge he has only one shelf in the door has yeast, dry only. i'm learning to wash so i can order the weihenstephaner weizen yeast, once. i love my wheats esp weizen and weissbier. :drinking: Hey Jim check out Rite Brew . com They work out to be the same price as going to my LHBS including shipping. Which is cheap. They rock. They ship on time and everything comes as it should. When I am lazy I order from them. They actually have more to choose from then my LHBS so it sometimes works out for me. Side question, Are those your grandkids?
  13. "Inkleg" post=374487 said: "charlieb" post=374475 said:I will be using washed Wyeast 1056 instead of the nottingham from the recipe. Coincidentally this will also be my first attempt at using washed yeast. Good luck with your first washed yeast. Soon it will become second nature. I've made the Centennial with 05 and Notty. Both are good, but I prefer the notty. JJ the Centennial that you enjoyed on the 4th on this month was brewed 3-30 and bottled 4-13. I was pouring what I kegged on 4-20. Thats how fast it goes from grain to glass. I have two batches, one using 05 and another using the Notty. I will harvest those. Then I can compare the 1056 with them and see which I prefer. Good times :gulp:
  14. "Jim Johnson" post=374473 said: "charlieb" post=374468 said: "joejkd82" post=374465 said:I brew exclusively BIAB in 2.5gal batches, and do mostly Old Ales and IIPA's. I have a 5 gal pot. I use beersmith to get my volumes, but to do BIAB "truest" to form, you do not do a sparge at all. Basically, the amount of water you use is your final volume + boil-off + estimated losses to trub, chilling equip, etc (this is where beersmith would come in). I raise my water to strike temp (about 7 degrees higher than mash for me) on my electric range (ceramic, no less!), preheat my oven to 190, dough in, kill the heat on the oven, cover the kettle and pop it in the oven for heat retention for 90 min. At then end of the mash, the pot goes back on the range, I raise the temp slowly (like I have a choice :laugh: ) to 168, kill the heat, and pull the grain bag. Then the pot goes outside to my propane burner (I use a Bayou Classic fish fryer burner I picked up for $50. For 2.5-5 gal volumes anything 60k BTU or higher should do you fine) and perform my boil there. Brew day is like anyone else's at that point. Interesting. Originally that is what I was going for. Everything in the "bag" no sparging. I'm doing the centenial blonde everyone knows/talks about this weekend. I was debating on whether I would sparge or not with BIAB after posting this. But right now I'm set not to. Everything in the bag and go.......... that's the way i'm doing it Well Jim since we are compadre's this weekend I will let you know I will be doing one thing different this weekend. I will be using washed Wyeast 1056 instead of the nottingham from the recipe. Coincidentally this will also be my first attempt at using washed yeast.
  15. "joejkd82" post=374465 said:I brew exclusively BIAB in 2.5gal batches, and do mostly Old Ales and IIPA's. I have a 5 gal pot. I use beersmith to get my volumes, but to do BIAB "truest" to form, you do not do a sparge at all. Basically, the amount of water you use is your final volume + boil-off + estimated losses to trub, chilling equip, etc (this is where beersmith would come in). I raise my water to strike temp (about 7 degrees higher than mash for me) on my electric range (ceramic, no less!), preheat my oven to 190, dough in, kill the heat on the oven, cover the kettle and pop it in the oven for heat retention for 90 min. At then end of the mash, the pot goes back on the range, I raise the temp slowly (like I have a choice :laugh: ) to 168, kill the heat, and pull the grain bag. Then the pot goes outside to my propane burner (I use a Bayou Classic fish fryer burner I picked up for $50. For 2.5-5 gal volumes anything 60k BTU or higher should do you fine) and perform my boil there. Brew day is like anyone else's at that point. Interesting. Originally that is what I was going for. Everything in the "bag" no sparging. I'm doing the centenial blonde everyone knows/talks about this weekend. I was debating on whether I would sparge or not with BIAB after posting this. But right now I'm set not to. Everything in the bag and go..........
  16. "russki" post=373834 said:If not using a stirplate (which requires a flat bottomed vessel), you can use anything that would hold the amount of wort you're using for the starter (mason jar, growler, clean milk jug, etc.). Unless it's made of borosilicate glass, make sure to cool your wort before adding it to the vessel. To calculate the necessary starter size, I recommend using a calculator such as www.yeastcalc.com. Well duh! I am clearly thinking too much. You normally cool the wort before adding to a vessel so why am I thinking of adding hot wort into a glass jar then cooling? Sorry guys for wasting your time. Brain fart!
  17. Just curious on suggestions for vessels for a yeast starter. Obviously a glass flask like many of you use is the top choice but I do not have one. I am wondering what else can be used. I have a glass jar but my assumption is that it will crack once I add hot wort into it and then add it to an ice bath to cool down.
  18. "christler" post=373600 said:http://www.simplebiabcalculator.com/ here is a link that I use all the tome for biab. I also use a 7.5 gal turkey fritter. I normally do 2.5 or 4 and sometimes 3 gallon batches with my biab set up That's awesome dude. Thanks!
  19. "Jim Johnson" post=373563 said:i've tried that centennial blonde, a la inkleg, it's so good i'm brewing it up sat as a ag bib. come on we'll jump on this train togeather That's a deal brother :chug:
  20. On it! I'm dying to run down to the LHBS with all this brew talk.....
  21. "Inkleg" post=373554 said: "charlieb" post=373551 said: There is a nice and simple recipe here that I'd like to try: http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f66/centennial-blonde-simple-4-all-grain-5-10-gall-42841/ You have now been warned! Brewing this recipe will cause you to keep it in a bottle or on tap at all times. It is that good. I made 25 gallons of it last year and have already made 20 so far this year. It is a simple easy drinker that everyone likes. BierMuncher has some great recipes. The last time I brewed it was a 10 gallon batch in a 15 gallon pot using a 3 gallon sparge to get the pre boil volume. Lmao inkleg - this is the recipe I'm talking about
  22. "Brewbirds" post=373553 said:I have been wondering if we lost you Charlie; welcome back. If you search this forum for "got a new brew toy" you will find a great little scale for hops. When I got it they were on sale for around $10 w/ free shipping but that was a while ago. It is a great little brewers assistant to have. (You can even use it measure diamonds when you're not brewing.) :laugh: We have done some BIAB type batches with VERY small pots. We keep a second pot of water at 170F and use it to "sparge" which is really just placing the grain bag in a colander over the brew pot and rinsing it. We also have to top off during the boil because of pot size. It is hard to plug that into software because it is an unconventional method and our numbers are often off but we are making beer. You just have to keep trying until you get a method down that works for your set up. Thanks Brewbirds! I have a scale but clearly need something more precise I suppose I will start with the simplest method for this. The recipe calls for 8.75lbs of grains. So I will mash with 3.5 gallons and sparge another 3 to give me 6.5. Holler!
  23. If that is the case Russki, could I do an entire BIAB with no sparge and just let 'er rip? There is a nice and simple recipe here that I'd like to try: http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f66/centennial-blonde-simple-4-all-grain-5-10-gall-42841/
  24. "russki" post=373547 said: "charlieb" post=373545 said: "russki" post=373544 said: Why not? I've done up to 15 pounds of grain in my 7.5 gallon electric turkey fryer. Well that is what I have. A 7.5 turkey fryer. Wal-mart I suppose? Anyways what about efficiency and all that sh@t? How are your batches coming out? Here's a little pictorial I made way back when on my BIAB process - with up to 12 pounds of grain I routinely got 70-75% efficiency and really good beer.Holy crap you do this in an electric fryer? that is awesome!
  25. "russki" post=373544 said: "charlieb" post=373542 said: "Trollby" post=373540 said:Just an FYI..... When I sparge I get over 75% efficiency doing BIAB, without more like 70%. Much better beers too. I know it makes more steps and BIAB is suppose to be a "1 pot" method, I just like better efficiency But this could only be done with select recipes I suppose. For instance if my grain bill is 12lbs, there is no way to do that in a 7.5 gallon pot right? Why not? I've done up to 15 pounds of grain in my 7.5 gallon electric turkey fryer.Well that is what I have. A 7.5 turkey fryer. Wal-mart I suppose? Anyways what about efficiency and all that sh@t? How are your batches coming out?
×
×
  • Create New...