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Everything posted by charlieb

  1. "Tabasco" post=349859 said: "charlieb" post=349850 said:I"m working on saving to do all grain. I can't stop brewing while trying to acquire my set-up to do so. Trying to find quick and cheap alternatives in the meantime. Having an empty keg is blasphemy Consider MIAB (most call it Brew in a Bag, but to me it's Mash in a Bag). You won't believe how little equipment I have ... and I've done countless AG's. In the house. I have no plans to move the process outdoors with propane burner, lauter tun, etc. Of course, I'm pretty much limited to 1.052 OG (1.06 if I add a little DME) ... but pffttt no headaches or big equipment costs. Full volume is best, but there's nothing wrong with partial boil and topping off with cold water in the fermenter ... and that's what I do. I wish I didn't have to buy anything but unfortunately I need a friar. My stove won't handle more than a gallon and a half....... That and I need a mash tun (probably a cooler) and a new pot. So even if I really shop around that is at least $100. To keep the wife from killing me I need to "earn' some extra cash first
  2. f@$k it I guess. I'll just order two cans. Split one, and use one for a single batch and see what happens. It's all beer right :chug:
  3. "pghFred" post=349847 said:The HMEs, while calling for extra DME, are hopped for a 5gal batch. In essence, you will get twice the bittering using these HMEs in one LBK if filling to the 2.4gal mark (Q). That being said, I've done it with a few of the Coopers and 'other' brands of the 3.75 HMEs. If you do the IPA, it will just be doubly bitter, which I don't mind because the IBUs aren't off the chart to begin with for a 5gal. Dry hopping with this made it very good. My other favorite was a 3.75lb Mexican Cervesa HME. It did have too much bitterness at the beginning, but after a long condition (3-4 months) it turned out to be a very good, refreshing brew. :chug: Thanks Fred. That is the type of info I'm looking for.
  4. I"m working on saving to do all grain. I can't stop brewing while trying to acquire my set-up to do so. Trying to find quick and cheap alternatives in the meantime. Having an empty keg is blasphemy
  5. "HazardousBrewer" post=349824 said: "mashani" post=349817 said: "HazardousBrewer" post=349777 said:There's really no need to split the can for those. THe recipes actually require you to use additional DME or LME to fill out for 5 gallons. You can use just the can of HME for a 2.5 gallon batch and use whatever hops you want to add. I've heard the Coopers IPA is good with additional Cascade hops added. The only issue is they will have 2x-3x the IBUs as intended, as they are meant for 5-6 gallon batches, not 2-2.5ish gallon batches. IBUs are directly related to volume. Then my apologies on the misinformation. No worries Hazardous. This is why I posted this. I read someone here on the forum did a straight can in a LBK sized batch and it tasted bad. calledthestig: What I would do to offset the shipping price is order enough items to be cheaper than going to my LHBS. But aside from that, $35 or so for two batches ain't that shabby right?
  6. I stumbled across a site selling Coopers' Concentrate for cheap. They have 3.75lb HME cans. There was another post on this but nothing in terms of quality or recipes. I'm curious if anyone has used any of these in their LBK(s), which flavors and the recipe? The concentrates are set-up for 5 gallon batches. Thought about splitting the cans with some DME and hop additions to make two batches.
  7. Good to know. I more than likely will order a couple plus some DME and split up some batches. Will be going to AG in about a month or so, so I need some in between brewing. Have you tried anything other than their stouts? Ritebrew has a big selection to choose from.
  8. Replying to a topic that hasn't had much response in a bit. But I am ordering a few things from ritebrew and they have a lot of Cooper's Concentrates on their. Since this was posted have any of you bottled and tasted your Cooper brews? Wondering how it turned out as I'm interested in buying a few. And not sure if I should dump the whole thing into an LBK or split it into two.
  9. Is it OK if you have trub in your yeast you plan to use for your next batch?
  10. Guess I'm gonna have to post another topic on why my last two batches tasted like Splenda was added to them. Cause it sounds like I bottle like everyone else on here.
  11. Well damn........ I am having a minor issue and was certain that maybe this was part of it, but it appears not to be. I batch prime, so I typically get as much as I can and that includes opening the lid and tilting the keg to get more out of it as you suggest. I was thinking that maybe I'm getting too much yeast or liquid off the top of the cake that is causing my concern. But damn, looks like strike 2 for me. Thanks guys
  12. I am curious as to how much the borg leaves behind in their fermentors? I understand the general rule using LBKs is to stop once the spigot stops. But with cold crashing and other techniques I assume this basis to change per individual. The underlying reason I ask is because I'm wondering if you take almost all of the fermented liquid and bottle it, that you may end up with a yeasty or very green tasting beer that you can never get rid of, even with age. So assuming you cold crash, how much do you typically leave?
  13. I'm sorry I didn't explain myself better. I understand it has variables. My question is simple. When do you start to count? Once in the bottle? And ect. Thanks
  14. When do you start counting peak time for a beer? After it's bottled? Just curious as the recipes I'm doing mention peak time.
  15. Can you pitch the yeast if it has trub still in it? My turkey basting techniques leave something to be desired and I have a some trub in mine.
  16. I was more concerned with the gravity affecting it. But it shouldn't be too much off right in terms of testing plain old water right? It will be all grain so I assume not.
  17. OK I hope not to confuse too many people here. I am wondering if there is some calculation or online calculator that could give me a boil time to reach my batch size? Meaning let's say my starting boil volume is 3 gallons, but I need it to boil down so it fits in the LBK. 2.25 or whatever. Is there some sort of method to this?
  18. "Beerlabelman" post=347323 said:I kind of get that Jim, but what does "Is what would be some good steeping grains and or a partial mash that would make for even a better brew. Also maybe a differant type of hops that would go with this type of brew" really mean? :laugh: :drinking: Lol...... sorry but had to.
  19. I am fermenting this now. I found a combo pack at Sears for $20 so I couldn't resist. Ended up buying two. I did the typical Powerful Patriot Ale and will partial mash the other two.
  20. I think temps around 68 is too cold. I bet if you were in the 72-74 range you wouldn't have to wait extra time. But that is just me.
  21. "Kealia" post=347113 said:EKG are very earthy and mild in aroma, sometimes they will get blended into the smell of the malt. Something like cascades will give you a strong aroma while EKG typically will not. I've never had a beer that was dry hopped with EKG where it stood out. Not sure how much you would have to use to get that from them either. What did you brew up (recipe)? Maybe we can suggest another variety to dry hop with? That makes sense. I just make recipes up so it's not really worth noting. But dry hopping with a Cascade or something else sounds like a plan especially if EKG is a bit mild. Thanks
  22. "Gary in NJ" post=347093 said:I've had good success using strong hops for dry hopping. If you like floral aroma, Simcoe (13-ish% Alpha) makes a fine dry hop. Gary, I know this totally contradicts what you are saying, but what about Cascade? Or is that too mild? Again, I get your point, just asking
  23. "manosteel9423" post=347075 said:Keep in mind, too, that you will get much more aroma from your hops once the beer is carbonated. Its the head of the beer that gives off the most aroma, so a flat beer, from a hydro sample, won't give you the full aroma profile that your finished beer will have. Well that makes a lot of sense. I won't bottle for a few more days. Guess I will have to wait I used EKG.
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