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Everything posted by charlieb

  1. "Duff" post=340936 said:Just using rough approximation here on my hydrometer: A gravity of 1.056 is about 7.3% on the ABV scale. A gravity of 1.018 is about 2.3% on the ABV scale. 7.3-2.3 comes out to 5. It's hard to guess more than thirds on that scale so going with the gravity is going to be more accurate but using the ABV scale should be roughly the same. Well I'm stupid and sorry I wasted your time guys After re-reading Duff's post I went back to look at my readings. I was doing the brix #'s.......duh!
  2. Duff that is what lead me here. The OG-FG x 131 seems more spot on than what the instructions for the hydrometer say. If I go by my Hydrometer, I get like 3.5%. I am not saying impossible, but with 3.3lbs of LME and a quarter pound of sugar that has to be off. Inkleg - My OG was 1.056 and FG was 1.018
  3. Well here is the official results. I opened and recapped about 6 times since I originally posted this. I'm happy to report no bottle bombs. Unfortunately, I have a very sweet beer. Oh well, you live and learn!
  4. OK so I am getting to "know" my hydrometer. But I am having a minor issue getting a good reading or understanding if you will for ABV. Now mind you, I am not chasing ABV. Just would like to know where I stand. The instructions read take your starting ABV and subtract your final reading to equal your ABV. Great, and seems easy. However, if I stick to this my final abv is 3.5% That seems low to me. I then do some reading and get this formula or others very similar to it: OG-FG X 131 This gives me about 4.9% which seems to be more accurate. My software says 5.6%, but I trust that one the least. If I add in the temperature correction I get very close to the software number. So anyways............ thoughts, suggestions, ideas?
  5. Decisions, decisions, decisions lol
  6. Uh oh, Northern Brewer takes the lead with Fuggles a close second
  7. Yep gonna do a PM and hop boil. I'm still fine tuning my times for the hops.
  8. OK I am getting ready to brew another batch. I have some extra Target and Kent Goldings, but want to throw in a third kind. Does anyone have any suggestions? If you need to see my recipe to make a better suggestion here it is. 1lb Briess Golden Light DME 3.3lb Briess Sparkling Amber LME .2oz Caramunich .2oz Carapils .2oz Crystal 10 .2oz Amber malt 1lb American 2 row pale malt Safale 05 EKG Hops Target Hops
  9. "haerbob3" post=338973 said:any questions?? The reason I suggested doing full volume boils that you will get better utilization of your hops. Plus a full boil helps retain the color better. With extract brews the color is darker just by the packing process, when you boil less then the full batch size the sugars are concentrated and darken as you boil. Also extracts are less fermentable by their very nature. When I did PM's I use the sweet wort form that process to get the gravity I needed to do the hop boil. I added all the extracts at the end of the boil to prevent color degradation. You only need to be at a temp of 170* for five mins to effectively sterilize the extract. For futher reading I would recommend this issue of BYO they have a BREW U section this month that is very helpful [attachment=11367]graphics-beer-737871_2013-02-20.gif[/attachment][attachment=11367]graphics-beer-737871_2013-02-20.gif[/attachment][attachment=11367]graphics-beer-737871_2013-02-20.gif[/attachment] No questions brother. It was really about doing a PM as opposed to a full boil. I understand the benefits of full boils and late additions. Also, a full boil is not possible for me as my stove can't do it. It can barely handle a gallon. One day I may pick up a turkey fryer or something similar to up my boil capacity. Thanks again
  10. "Jimjohson" post=338760 said:you can cook 2 gal batches full boil means 1 hour cooking time not just boiling and turning off Actually that is incorrect. A full boil means your are boiling the entire amount of wort. Nothing to do with time on your burner.
  11. Thanks Haerbob for questioning my process here. I ended up reading numerous articles and have a better grasp of doing a partial mash and steeping and why we do those things. My recipe book has a min-mash method so for sure I will be jumping on that. Thanks again
  12. "haerbob3" post=338212 said:you have no base malt only specialty malts. Your time is off need 1 hour you are steeping. You need a pale malt, pilsner malt a grain of that order in order to convert the starches to sugar. Search this site or google partial mashing. What software are you using? Another problem you have is your boil volume it is too small you should be boiling 3 gallons for the best results in a MRB sized batches. Tell us why you think you are doing a PM?? Extracts do not convert your starches. I was using the clone brews book. It tells me 30 minutes. So I follow the recipe. I use the malts they are telling me to use. I can't boil 3 gallons. Would love to. If I could I'd be using carboys instead of MRB. And since the MRB is only 2.5, doesn't boiling 3 gallons make that a full boil? If I am following you correctly, because I don't use "base" malt such as carapils or caramunich, and, I am not steeping for 60 minutes before my boil, this means I am not partial mashing? Is this right?
  13. "haerbob3" post=338200 said:nope you need to use a base malt to partial mash. DME will help a bit with the mouth feel but not much. As mentioned to you carapils is the best to use you can just steep it. I ran your recipe tru beersmith and you are off with 4.8% In order to convert what little starch there is to convert in your specialty grains you would need to pm. PM'ing is easy and will give you a better beer. You are doing full volume boils correct?? I am doing 1 gallon boils. Carapils is already on the agenda. That is the easy part. You keep mentioning partial mash. What is it I am doing that is not partial mash?
  14. "haerbob3" post=338155 said:no base malt in your recipe you are steeping 3 LB Briess Golden Light LME 8oz Crystal 60 4oZ Crystal 10 1oz Cascade 1oz Northern Brewer Danstar Windsor Ale Yeast Steeped and sparged the grains 30 minutes at 150 Brought to boil and added full LME 1/2oz Northern Brewer for 60 1/2oz Northern Brewer at 10 1oz Cascade at 2 And since your only fermentable is the LME your numbers are off. While seeping and partial mashing are similar they are not the same. The grains you used will not convert on their own the Kilning process destroyed the enzymes need , you need a base malt. Also you need to hold 148 - 152 for an 60 not 30 mins use 1.25 to 1.5 quarts of water per pound of grain I'm was going by the clone book. It says to steep and sparge at that temp for that amount of time. Would 1lb of DME work as a base? Or would I need more than that?
  15. "oly" post=338083 said: What about caramunich? Same thing? Like crystal/caramel 60*L but less sweet. Any crystal/caramel malt will be dextrinous, meaning that they contain non-fermentable, non sweet sugars called dextrins. Carapils and Carafoam are two brand names for dextrin malt, meaning that they will not impart any other color or flavor to your beer, only body and head retention. Adding malto-dextrin has the same effect as steeping carapils.Mashing and steeping are similar processes. The difference is that steeping grains like caramel/crystal malts have already undergone a form of starch conversion in the process of making them, so the term for extracting their soluble sugars is called steeping. The temperature of the water is not critical, because the enzymes that break down the starches have already been denatured, and the starches in them have already been mostly converted to sugar. Base malts have not yet undergone the process of converting their starch to sugar. By "steeping" them in water at a particular temperature, particular enzymes, which are released into the grain during the malting process, get to work breaking down the grains' starch to varying degrees. The higher the temperature of the mash, the more dextrins are produced. A lower temperature mash produces more maltose and simple sugars. Therefore a higher temperature mash (say 157*F) will produce a fuller bodied beer like a bock, while a mash conducted at 149* will be thinner and dryer like a German Pilsner. Give this a gander, it will explain it in much greater detail: http://www.howtobrew.com/section3/index.html Thank you Oly! That explains everything and makes a lot of since. I especially like the part about different temps producing different results. Thanks again
  16. "BigFloyd" post=338061 said: "charlieb" post=338060 said:OK then can you direct me to a great video on partial mashing? The last two I watched did steeping and sparging. Would love to learn more I edited the last post to give you slightly more info. I haven't really looked for a video on that, but I'll bet that there are some out there. Maybe someone can explain it to me then. Just read Jim Palmer's explanation of a partial mash and it sure seems like what I am doing. Is it not steeping/sparging the grains, then boiling the liquid including adding in your extract and hops for 60 minutes? What am I missing here?
  17. "BigFloyd" post=338058 said:Not exactly. When you are steeping/sparging specialty grains (crystal, caramel, etc.) you're getting flavor, color and/or body, but not much in the way of fermentable sugars. +1 on adding some Carapils or even a couple ounces of Maltodextrin (at flameout) if you want more mouthfeel. Putting all of the LME in at the beginning of the boil may result in a bit darker color, but I've never heard of it significantly lowering the OG. OK then can you direct me to a great video on partial mashing? The last two I watched did steeping and sparging. Would love to learn more
  18. Maybe I am missing something here and watched a video that did partial mashing wrong but it sure seems that is what I am doing already haerbob3. steep and sparge, is that not part of it?
  19. "haerbob3" post=338029 said:to me the LME looks a bit light what was your batch size? For a MR B size batch you are under 4% ABV OG of 1.040 Add only 20 to 30 percent of the LME at the beginning of the boil for hop utilization. A thin mouth feel is often found in extract brews. Partial mashing is not really any harder than steeping and gives you great results Actually my ABV is 4.8% but I get your point. I don't know to much about partial mashing. I will definitely check it out though
  20. "Gymrat" post=338039 said:It will work. A good hard rolling boil is best but as long as it boils you are good. Also never ever cover your beer during a boil. That causes DMS regardless of the grain used. What's DMS?
  21. "BigPapaG" post=337945 said:Try steeping a couple of ounces (2-4) of CaraPils (dextrine) in your next batch. I should add some mouthfeel and a bit of head retension as well. Also, up the malt extract by another eight ounces, that will help too. I've heard about carapils as well. But I worry it would give me a slight Bavarian flavor. Would that happen?
  22. "Creativewoody" post=337900 said:hmmm my only thought is when you put in your extract. Did you put all in at begininning of boil or did you split it up and put half of your extract in after flameout? Just looking at your recipe, it's the only thing I can think of. Cheers and happy brewing! All in the beginning. I was thinking that as well. My last two batches have been using a late addition. Just not this one.
  23. My last batch was a bit thin. I'm hoping I can get some suggestions from you fine folks on improving this. I am sure it's a volume thing. I fill up my LBK to the top of the "8.5" number after adding my wort. I don't want to change this but maybe change what I'm doing to compensate. I've read that maltodextrin can help but my LHBS doesn't carry it. Maybe I can simply utilize my hops better. I just started the late extract method so maybe that will help as well. Here is my recipe: 3 LB Briess Golden Light LME 8oz Crystal 60 4oZ Crystal 10 1oz Cascade 1oz Northern Brewer Danstar Windsor Ale Yeast Steeped and sparged the grains 30 minutes at 150 Brought to boil and added full LME 1/2oz Northern Brewer for 60 1/2oz Northern Brewer at 10 1oz Cascade at 2
  24. "mashani" post=333857 said:I don't know what you mean. It is impossible for you to get the same IBUs "regardless" of the batch volume you plug into QBrew with the same ingredients. If you switch from 1 to 2 gallons it should always change by a lot. If what you are saying is once you switch to 2 gallons and note what it says for IBUs then plug in your late addition and it stays the same - that's fine. That just means the formula it's using did not think it needed to adjust the IBUs with the gravity increase. This may not always be the case, so if the number does change when you add late extract then use the number that was there before you added the late extract as your projected IBUs. If your boil gravity was 1.03 instead of 1.06 you likely would have noticed a change, especially if you configured QBrew to use Tinseth (options, configure, check the "use tinseth" box). Weird. I have Qbrew on two computers. The computer I was trying this out on yesterday and responding to this post wasn't changing. So I do the same thing on the other and it works like you are saying. Sorry for driving you nuts! It's now saying an IBU of 58 which is about where I want to be. I actually brewed this yesterday as we were talking. Figured I would just do it and see what happens. Nothing fancy here but here is the recipe. I used leftover ingredients I wasn't able to hit my LHBS 3.3 LB Briess Sparkling Amber .25lb Cane Sugar 8oz Crystal 120 .75oz Cascade 60min .50oz Northern Brewer 15min 1/2 tsp Irish Moss 15 min .50oz Northern Brewer 5min .25oz Cascade 5min Windsor English Ale yeast I did the late extraction as you suggested. So I hoping that will work well for me which I am sure it will.
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