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Everything posted by Brewbs

  1. forgot to mention, OG 1.043 however the FG was just under 1.000 which surprised me til I did a little reading and found out this is pretty typical.
  2. I used on-sale costco Rougemont AJ for this cider $10 for 12L. I just put 8.5L in the LBK and added a Mr. B yeast. After 3 weeks ferment and a week cold crash it tasted very promising at bottling time (keep in mind we typically drink less sweet ciders like Strongbow). Their was very little trub in the LBK and it poured very clear. After a couple weeks carbonation their is similar sediment to a beer. Not planning on cracking any for a couple more weeks however I've got my hopes up. I've got it bottled in clear strongbow bottles, made this more for the mrs so presentation is more important
  3. I've been buying bulk and using it for bumping up HME and for making batches from scratch and no complaints. If you keep it in a sealed container in your fridge it will keep a long time. Left over 3.3lb Briess containers or other 1L sized food safe air tight containers are a perfect base for a Mr. B sized batch. I pay $5 for a container full, add a couple bucks for hops, a buck for some specialty grains and some washed yeast and it makes for some frugal yet tasty brews
  4. wow, finally got around to brewing this. The tea bags held up great throughout a 60 minute boil. Only thing I wished I'd done was let them drain out on the splattershield at the end of the boil to get all that hoppy goodness out of 'em. So yeah, I guess they stand up to a boil well with nearly half an ounce of hops however I think that's pushing it cause they looked like they were going to burst. I guess I'll find out how well utilized the hops were in 6 weeks or so, although after all that work I wasn't paying attention and ended up over filling my LBK by almost a quart! ...so FG of 1.043 instead of 1.05X.... oh well, it will be pale ale and it will be yummy Here's a shot of my tea bags in baggies ready to go (the 60 is already in the pot). Here's a shot of them floating, at first they primarily floated, but after a while they danced all over the place, not just on the surface, for this reason I think the hop utilization should be pretty good.
  5. i saw some great reviews on YouTube of the Coopers. Apparently just brew it exactly as recommended. I picked up a kit and some LME and dextrose and will do as per instructions except with Nottingham yeast.
  6. Alright, all the ingredients have been measured and 'tea bagged', brewing this tomorrow testing the tea bags. Each timed addition is in a single bag. I have a single small paper staple holding a double fold on the top of each bag, let's see if they can take the abuse of a 60 minute boil. this is my 3rd attempt at SNPA clone. steep, start at 157 for 20 minutes 4 oz Crystal 60 2 oz CaraPils 60 minutes 0.3 oz (8.5 g) Perle 0.08 oz (2.2 g) Magnum 0.07 oz (2.0 g) Cascade 1.65 lb (500 ml) UCM Pale LME 15 minutes 1/2 tsp Irish Moss 1.65 lb (500 ml) UCM Pale LME 0.425 oz (12 g) Cascade 0 minutes 0.425 oz (12 g) Cascade Washed US-05
  7. Thanks T8r, you know I didn't think Oktoberfest would be a beer for me, I'm primarily a english brown ale and a american pale ale and some IPA kind of person. I got 3 of them on clearance and the first two I just went straight to making Howling Red variants ...and to be honest, maybe they are just green but I wasn't too thrilled with how they turned out. This one tasted really good flat and I think it's going to be the best of the lot.
  8. It's been a little crazy lately, had some time off for shoulder surgery and wasn't able to do a whole lot, not to mention the million other things that had to be put off, so what was meant to be a 3 day crash ended up being 10 days. And I have to say, I liked the results Not only was the beer crystal clear, and the trub very solidified, this was the first batch I was able to fill over 8 liters worth of bottles without any trub bottle, in-fact even had enough after 8L for a little 280ml tester I also got to test out my new capper which my wife picked up for my recent b-day I've finally made the step to glass which I'm pretty happy about, it was inevitable. I did fill one 500ml plastic bottle so I could check for carbonation and I'm happy to report that after less than 24 hours it's firming up nicely. This batch was an Oktoberfest with a little extra LME and irish moss and it tasted surprisingly yummy flat.
  9. so I pulled out my old Swingline stapler and tested a staple in salty water overnight. It didn't rust so it's either tin or galvanized, I'm thinking tin because I'd expect their to be some rust where the staples were attached to one another. I was thinking I could staple them, maybe even use 1 staple over a few bags if I need a bunch of hops, just fan the bags out to they get lot's of spread. This will minimize the staples and maximize the utilization .....I hope. It's my b-day in a few days and I have a new burner coming and hopefully a few other brewing goodies ..so I will be doing up a 5 gal pale ale next week, this is when I'll test them out
  10. sounds yummy, now I'm trying to decide between a wheat pale ale or a rye pale ale for my next 5 gal. thx for posting this
  11. I didn't think about the hops expanding to the point where they would pop, you might have a point. That said these things have an expanding bottom and are quite well made. I have some plain chrome looking paperclips, quite sure they aren't galvanized, maybe if I pre boiled a bunch it would boil out any possible contaminants. The reason I don't want to use string is the amount of volume I might lose with the tie job but I do have to think about this some more. I will definitely test the limits of these things, they sure make for quick and easy setup/clean-up and for 1 cent each the price is right.
  12. I found these at wally world, 100 for $1.00 I figure I might be able to get 1/2oz in each one, and then paperclip the flap. Could make for some clean hop boils, nice for organizing the hop schedule too. I put an iPod in the picture for scale. What ya think?
  13. I recently picked up a Nottingham and a Windsor on-sale at the LHBS. I was planning on putting the Nottingham in an English bitter and the Windsor in a stout, have I got this right or should I consider reversing it?
  14. I have time! I will likely give it a nice long cold crash too.
  15. I recently made a cider and I meant to boil a little AJ with irish moss ...but forgot. Does the borg think it would benefit much from the irish moss? What if I boiled a little AJ with the moss in it now and added it to the LBK?
  16. thanks guys. All bottles are nicely firm after 4 weeks conditioning in the warm room. They've now been moved to the basement. I have one more pint sampler that I will leave in the fridge longer and see what happens, I don't think it's as 'trubby' as this one was tho. Oddly enough, big head faded fast, down to a small but pleasant head and maybe a little undercarbed. I recently picked up a big tennis ball sized tea strainer and used that to dry hop the next variation, hopefully this won't be a problem moving forward. This beer is going to be awesome if I can get rid of the chunks! Very tasty! I think I'm going to stick to doing my hoppy beers in small Mr. B sized batches so I can fit them in the fridge for a cold crash .....I just wanted to try without a cold crash this time and I'm sort of regretting it ATM.
  17. I just cracked a small trub bottle tester that I did up with my first non-cold crashed batch. This batch was dry hopped and this bottle had a good 1/4" of sediment and a few loose bits of hops in the bottom. After a little over a day in the fridge I cracked it open, and then went to the cupboard for a fresh glass. Literally as I reach for the bottle for the pour a small explosion goes off in the bottom of the bottle and all the sediment comes up like I'd just shaken it up, and then it starts to foam over like a mofo, this probably happened about 10 seconds after I opened it (PET). I went ahead and filled my glass through a strainer but boy their is a lot of hop bits floating in it, hopefully this won't hurt me, it's looks great and smells great except for the floaties (Howling Red with a dry hop). I just can't believe how much activity their is in the glass.
  18. "mashani" post=377508 said: @Brewbs, the downunda yeast really doesn't like it in the lower 60s. Everything I've used it 65+ degrees has conditioned fast and been good to drink soon. Everything I've used it at 62 or I condition upstairs in a warmer closet, however I can say for a fact that no matter how much Coopers yeast and Mr. Beer yeast look alike I do not get the same results with the Coopers or US-05, only Mr. Beer yeast has this tendency. I wish I could find a good spot on the main floor of my house to try a batch, I thought for sure with the recent heat blast my basement would be closer to 70 but it hasn't budged since mid winter. Maybe I'll just put it up high on shelf in the basement and see how it turns out. I recently made a batch of Patriot with extra LME and .5oz of Liberty and the cideriness is very evident after 4 weeks conditioning, I've accepted the fact that it will be a few more weeks.
  19. looks great, can't believe how dark and hearty it looks for a 3.7 ABV with just a little crystal 40. I think I want to make something like this one
  20. I did my first 5 gal in a bucket without a tight lid and no airlock or hole. After a bit of research I went with the theory that if I don't disturb it, the CO2 will dominate, and the lid will let any pressure out ...which is hopefully the O2 initially until it's all CO2 under the lid. How would what I did be any different from the way a Mr. Beer keg works? The batch turned out, even with a dry hop :banana: ...my original plan was to do it like this for 2 weeks then move to a carboy, but I decided to try keeping things simple for now. I'm afraid that the more I handle the beer the more likely I am to get an infection. It spent 3 weeks in the bucket, then went to the bottling bucket and into bottles.
  21. "whynot" post=376853 said:Borg folks often recommend a conditioning test on a first batch... try one bottle each week to taste how time improves beer. My first batch was also CAL, cidery taste disappeared after 8 weeks conditioning. Just had one at 11 weeks and it is much improved! Lest the yeasties do their thing for a while, and put more to work in a new batch of something interesting while you get a pipeline built up. They tell me a full pipeline makes the waiting easier! 8 weeks for me too, it turned into a really nice brew once that cidery flavour dissapeared. Odly enough I find all my Mr. B yeasted brews get that taste and it takes a while for it to fade, although the hoppier brews hide it somewhat. Maybe my basement is too cool, 60-64F. I overheated one batch with a broken heater and the cider taste was much less noticeable.
  22. I think you might have to dry hop that with Cilantro. I just love the way Mango and Cilantro go together
  23. ya, I keep holding off on the Qbrew, trial and error is much more fun! lol so check this out, this was my first time using a starter, I don't know what it is I'm just not a big fan of the taste that Mr. B yeast leaves in my beers. I've done some with US-05 and it tastes much cleaner. So I thought making this starter might make a difference for whatever reason. Well I made this up with 100ml LME in the starter and an additional 200ml of LME, came out with an OG of 1.042, the LBK overflowed today! That is some happy yeast! ...and a mess for my to clean-up. I can't believe such a low OG overflowed.
  24. I did a 3/4 can of the TC IPA and it was great, and I did a full can of the stout and really like that in 1 LBK. Up here (kingdom of Canadia) the full size Coopers cans are the same price as the Mr. B. small cans so why not? In some cases less, I was at Bass Pro Shops this weekend and they wanted $40 for a 2pack of std. Mr. B refills, locally I get two Coopers for $38. Neil
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