Jump to content
Mr.Beer Community


Community Members
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by asnider

  1. "losman26" post=375999 said:Be careful with beano. I wouldn't use it unless you are kegging I have no intention of doing this, but I am curious as to exactly what the problem is with using beano.
  2. "JohnSand" post=375081 said:That's what I did, rocked it lengthwise. I don't know how much it helped, mine was already under 1.020. But Palmer recommends gently rolling bottles if carbonation is stuck. Putting the yeast back in suspension is believed to help. Cool. I gave it a gentle rocking. If it's still at 1.021 when I get home, I'll move it into a warmer spot for a couple of days and then bottle it.
  3. Looking for feedback on this recipe. It's a bit of a frankenbrew, in that it's mostly designed to use up some "leftover" ingredients that I've got lying around. Thoughts from the :borg: ? Wee Amber Ale ------------- Brewer: Adam Snider Style: American Amber Ale Batch: 2.00 galExtract Characteristics --------------- Recipe Gravity: 1.033 OG Recipe Bitterness: 36 IBU Recipe Color: 10° SRM Estimated FG: 1.008 Alcohol by Volume: 3.2% Alcohol by Weight: 2.5% Ingredients ----------- Amber DME 1.23 lb, Extract, Extract Light DME 0.25 lb, Extract, Extract Kent Goldings (U.K.) - Aroma and dry hop intensely resiny, candy-like, sweet, slightly floral and spicy 0.50 oz, Pellet, 45 minutes Kent Goldings (U.K.) - Aroma and dry hop intensely resiny, candy-like, sweet, slightly floral and spicy 0.50 oz, Pellet, 0 minutes Sterling - Zpicy, herbal hop with a hint of citrus. Can be used as both a bittering and aroma hop0.25 oz, Pellet, 10 minutes Maltodextrin 2.00 unit, Other, Unit = 1oz Muntons Standard 1.00 unit, Yeast, Temperature Range: 64°-68° F 6 GRAMS Notes ----- Recipe Notes: Hop addition at 0 minutes = dry hops at 14 days in LBK Maltodextrin is to improve mouthfeel. Batch Notes: n/a
  4. "JohnSand" post=374916 said:I rocked mine a little, then nature warmed it up. It worked. You literally just rocked the LBK and that was enough to get things going again?
  5. If I'm not mistaken, the Coopers Ale Yeast that Mr.Beer uses also gives a bit of a woody tasty. The Pride of Ringwood combined with the Coopers yeast might actually give a double-whammy in the standard refills.
  6. I took another hydro sample and it is now down to 1.021 after 19 days in the LBK, which is what most people seem to be getting as their FG. I'd like to try and get it a bit lower before bottling, though. Ideally, I'd like to get it down to 1.013, which would give me the 6.5% ABV that Mr Beer says this brew should end up with. My options are to either add a tablespoon of honey to "reactivate" the yeast as someone else suggested earlier OR to move the LBK upstairs where it'll be warmer for a few days. In either case, it won't get bottled for at least 5 more days because I'm going to be out of town for work. The other option, of course, is to accept that 1.021 is the FG most people are getting and to bottle it up tomorrow before I go out of town. Thoughts from the Borg? :borg:
  7. Had a couple pints of this so far. It definitely didn't get good hop utilization, and it could use a bit more than the usual four weeks of conditioning time, but SWMBO likes it. Since I made it for her, I consider this a success. I'll definitely use more water during my hop boil next time, though.
  8. "rippsnorter" post=374316 said:Tried my first one at 9 days in the bottle last night (because im impatient). I hope the others are better. It was sweet, almost syrupy, and not well carbed, although i expected the light carbonation because i only added half of the priming sugar. Maybe the yeast hadnt finished eatng the sugar. We'll see in 3 weeks 9 days is pretty early. Hopefully it'll condition out in a few more weeks and taste much better.
  9. Just took a hydro sample on mine: 1.022 at 16 days in the LBK. I'm thinking that I should perhaps add a TBSP of honey as was suggested earlier, to rouse the yeast. Maybe I'll take another sample in a day or two first and, if it hasn't changed, add a bit of honey to get the yeast going again. EDIT: The sample tasted pretty good, for what it's worth! Not exactly the hop-forward IPA I was originally hoping for, but definitely a promising white ale. I look forward to seeing how this ultimately turns out.
  10. "mrblase" post=373999 said:I can't imagine that additional time conditioning this beer will make it better so I'll just load some in the fridge and enjoy it. You never know. I'd leave at least a couple of bottles to condition longer, just to see.
  11. "Kealia" post=372229 said: "asnider" post=372209 said: "Bbohanon" post=372198 said:Just tried mine..2 weeks in lbk, 3weeks in room temp bottles conditioning. What were your OG and FG readings? 2 weeks in the LBK seems pretty short for higher gravity beer. Not really. With a good pitch rate and controlled temps there is no reason that 2 weeks isn't plenty of time to ferment and clean up. The 3 week 'recommendation' is a safe one to make for those that don't have a hydrometer but it's not "necessary". I put that in quotes because some like to use a 3-week cycle for their beers and they believe that 3 weeks makes a difference to them. I don't question that or challenge their belief, but I think even they would agree that it's choice, not necessity. I know it can be done that early, I just figured that it was a bit early if he didn't take a FG reading to be sure that it was done fermenting. Plus, I thought higher gravity beers take longer. Maybe I'm wrong about that?
  12. "Bbohanon" post=372198 said:Just tried mine..2 weeks in lbk, 3weeks in room temp bottles conditioning. What were your OG and FG readings? 2 weeks in the LBK seems pretty short for higher gravity beer.
  13. "ba1980" post=370943 said:I have yet to make mine, but have a question about pot size. Is my 3QT pot going to be big enough to hold that huge can? Or am I better off getting another pot? Never made a seasonal before. The instructions say to use a 4qt or larger pot, but I managed to get by with my usual pot. It will be very full, though, so if you've got a larger pot I'd recommend using it.
  14. "manosteel9423" post=369859 said:And lets not forget that the "White IPA" style is not exactly a recognized style. A very good point. In fact, this is part of the reason I was so interested in trying this HME. A White IPA is something unique that you won't see everyday. I hope it packs a nice amount of bitterness but, if not, I've got a second can to tweak as necessary after I've tried the first batch. In other news, wow! That is one active fermentation! The krausen was up nearly to the top of the LBK within about 6 hours yesterday. I didn't check it before I left for work this morning, but I have a feeling that I'm going to have a bit of a mess to clean up when I get home this afternoon.
  15. "BlackDuck" post=369642 said:If you go at this with the thought that it really isn't an IPA, then I think this will be better than mediocre.....it has the potential to be a very refreshing lawnmower beer. If you are set on this being an IPA, well, then I think it will be less than mediocre. I guess I'm saying it won't be a bad beer at all, just not what they said it would be. That's fair, but I was definitely hoping that it would be what is was marketed as: a White IPA. Oh well, I guess...I am still looking forward to tasting the finished product. :gulp:
  16. "Kealia" post=369634 said: "asnider" post=369632 said: I'm really looking forward to this. I am tempted to brew the second batch right now, but I think I'll wait until I've tasted the first bottle of today's batch so that I can make some adjustments/additions if necessary. I think that would be wise since so few people have tasted it yet and there haven't been any rave reviews. Yeah. I haven't been keeping up with the thread, but I've gone back and read some of the early reviews and I'm disappointed. I hope that I'll like what I end up with. But if it ends up being mediocre after having spent roughly $60 for two cans with shipping...well, that's a very expensive price tag for a beer that is just OK.
  17. I finally found the time to brew my first batch of this seasonal today. (Thanks to manosteel9423 for helping me out with the shipping-to-Canada issue!) I managed to crack the coriander without ripping the spice bag (sort of...it did tear slightly, but the holes are so small that nothing can spill out of it). The brew process, being essentially the standard Mr. Beer process, went smoothly. There was a minor issue transferring the wort from the pot to the LBK, because the spice sack got stuck at the edge of the pot and ended up causing a minor spill...not enough to affect the brew too much, but I will definitely have to remember to fish the spice bag out with sanitized tongs before pouring the wort when I do batch #2. OG was 1.063. Hydro sample was nothing remarkable. At this ultra early stage, I wasn't able to pick out much more than the typical sweetness of unfermented malt. I'm really looking forward to this. I am tempted to brew the second batch right now, but I think I'll wait until I've tasted the first bottle of today's batch so that I can make some adjustments/additions if necessary.
  18. The tettnanger should go well with the Octoberfest, since they're German hops. Probably don't want to use pilsen yeast, though. The easiest thing to do might be just to brew it straight up, possibly with a short hop boil if you'd like (though Octoberfest is supposed to be pretty malty and not too hoppy). If you look in my signature, there is a recipe called "Sara's Honey Red" which uses the Octoberfest HME as a base. It's still conditioning, though, so I can't tell you if it turned out well.
  19. "billp" post=362989 said:Given that both booster and BrewMax add about the same amount of ABV (1.3% v. 1.0%) and cost the same why not use the LME? Is that extra .3% important enough to offset the longer conditioning time and cidery taste? As others have already said, the two products serve slightly different purposes. Booster adds ABV and body without affecting the taste very much. LME will change the flavour and make the beer maltier. This isn't necessarily a bad thing, but it's not always desirable. Most of the time, using UME instead of Booster is probably best. But some recipes call for adjuncts such as Booster for good reasons.
  20. Just a quick update. I bottled this batch yesterday. Hydro sample wasn't sweet (tasted like flat beer, as it should) and seemed to have a decent hop backbone. It's always hard to tell until it's carbed and conditioned, but it seems like this might work out OK after all.
  21. "Jim Johnson" post=361110 said:yeah i loose a about half a gallon on an hour boil. messed me up till i figured out the loss rate now i just add 5 pints extra at the start. i don't think you can raise the abv now. how weak do the numbers say it is? It's the IBU I'm concerned about, not the ABV. But it sounds like I might be OK, based on packerduf's comment.
  22. "packerduf" post=361107 said:The Oktoberfest HME makes for a malty brew, for sure. I added a full pound of DME to my last Oktoberfest mod (no hop boil), and it seemed extremely malty out of the LBK. Once I kegged it, and it was fully carbed, it was much better. RDWHAHB. I've been doing a bit more reading and it seems that the perceived IBUs will be higher once the beer is carbed and conditioned. I'll RDWHAHB and, if it does turn out to sweet for my liking, I'll know to adjust it next time. :gulp: :banana:
  23. Yes, there was DME in there, too. Basically, what I'm saying is that there wasn't enough water in the pot when I did my hop boil. A lot of the water boiled off, so I was left with a fairly small amount of hop boiled wort prior to adding the HME and topping up the LBK.
  24. The honey red I brewed recently seems like it's coming in waaay too sweet (based on the sample I just tasted). I think that this is because a lot of the water boiled off when I was doing my hop boil, so I ended up not actually adding much hop bitterness to the beer despite the 50 minute boil. Is there anyway to add bitterness and help balance this out a bit post-fermentation? I'm thinking about a tea-hop, but I believe that's mainly for adding aroma. Can anything be done, or is this a case of: lesson learned, use a lot more water for the hop boil the next time I attempt this recipe?
  25. "Christ872" post=359773 said:Adam~ I'm sorry I didn't see this before, Looks good, but...had I seen this beforehand...my suggestion would have been to extend the bitterness boil...either by the amount of Sterling or the length. Looking at the revision of the recipe...you projected an OG of 1.047 and an IBU of 22. At this point your BU:GU ratio is less than 0.50 (0.47 to be more precise). Which...to me...would indicate a lot sweeter beer. Personally for me it doesn't feel balanced until I get to around 0.63-0.65 (in that range). If you're been doesn't have the bitterness backbone...I would suggest that this may be the culprit. Not concern about anything else I see. Thanks for the tip about getting the right hop balance. I'll aim for a higher ration next time I make this one. Am I right in thinking that a longer boil with the same amount of hops will add more bitterness, but the same boil with more hops will increase both the IBUs and the hop flavour?
  • Create New...