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Everything posted by JimH

  1. Did you order them? They sound great. And you have been eyeing them for like a month now.
  2. September is far away. If you can wait that long, more power to you. As far as the two recipes being that similar, that is a good way to learn what changes in hops and yeast do to a beer. Like Ranger Danger said, you can hop as much as you like, but what if you taste a hop or yeast strain you don't like? How will you know? Doing those two similar recipes demonstrates how subtle changes can change a flavor profile. Sounds like you got it. Brew on!
  3. What you add is completely dependent on the flavor you are seeking. Adjuncts like sugar and booster will add ABV, but risk off flavors. DME/LME are better, they add body and maltiness, and yes, ABV, the preferred method for upping ABV. Hops add completely different from ^^. They add, obviously, hoppiness. Boiling will give different affects, flavor, aroma, or bitterness.
  4. That sounds pretty good. I will have to give FWH a try. Sounds like you get the IBUs without the punch in the mouth bitterness...
  5. Similar path. I didn't get into hops because I was brewing with them, per se. More like as I got into brewing, it got me interested in styles, which led me to buy them and drink them. The more I tried IPAs and Stouts and paid attention to the balance, flavor, IBU in a particular beer, the more I appreciated them. It even led me to liking them!
  6. "Screwy Brewer" post=383547 said: "philm00x" post=371846 said:Even though it didn't turn out exactly as you hoped, you've got a basis for a product you know you want. The same goes for the Gremlin Heiferweizen that Gizmo and I did up for the RCE. I think the hops are good as far as bitterness and flavor, but I was expecting a little more tangerine so next time I'll probably use more tangerine peel and a little bit of the juice to get it where I want. Works in progress! Two things that I wanted to point out that I feel are worth mentioning, substitute CaraPils for the Crystal 40L will make the finished beer lighter and add just a .25 ounce of Summit directly to the kettle before it starts boiling to prevent excessive foaming. The early kettle addition followed by late flavor and aroma additions that make up the remaining IBUs, will add more of the grain flavor to the finished beer. Although your recipe sounds like a good one if you keep tweaking it until you get just the right balance of color, flavor and taste you'll be a happy brewer. Thanks for the input Screwy, I like all the criticism I can get. My initial taste tests were actually quite different from the final product. The CaraPils is a good idea. Originally when I came up with the recipe I wanted to use CaraPils, or even just a C10. But my Amber Ale I wanted C60. When I got to the LHBS and I started picking ingredients, I got to the point where I stretched my budget, so I decided C40 would work for both recipes. It was an on the fly decision that may have gone against better judgement. Although, I will say with the upped hops I put in, including high AA% Falconer's Flight, the C40 helps this wheat beer stand up to it. This recipe is good the way it is, but CaraPils will be my choice for other wheats in the future. I like the Screwy Recipe for the 420 wheat. That might be the next one I try. Like JJ, I am also a little confused by your suggestion of the Summit.
  7. "Jim Johnson" post=383496 said: how long would you let it condition? 27 years. lol. I would say brew it up. You never know. Might take a while to condition but who knows.
  8. No problem. Like I said, if you know what you want to get out of the recipe it will help you decide how to achieve those results. Not to discourage you from brewing. My first steps from straight HME was a hop boil in some DME adding to the MB HME. It was a little step, but it is easy and when you are ready to try it, we can help.
  9. I haven't used sugar so I don't know if a cup would make a huge difference. The cider flavors will condition out, so don't worry about ruining the flavor. It just means you will have to let it sit in the bottles longer before drinking. Simple sugars will tend to dry out the beer, giving a crisp finish. If you were thinking of adding a honey flavor the best option is to start learning how to steep grains or even partial mash. If you aren't ready for that it is easy to add some DME and maybe start hop boils.
  10. Can't say that the tabs would be the cause, but I do stick to table sugar. It's cheap, you probably already have it, and bottling doesn't have enough of the sugars to make a difference in flavor. Honey and molasses will just raise ABV, and as a sugar could potentially give you cider flavors. The honey flavor will ferment out, the yeasties will eat it.
  11. I get what the Nong is saying, but it is kind of interesting if it is truly a recipe from 100 years ago. Wonder if beer was supposed to taste slightly different. Certainly it was more different than the BMC stuff people drink nowadays.
  12. Well, first off, we don't joke about throwing away beer, in any form! lol Second, Welcome to the forum!! Many knowledgeable people here who are willing to share and help you make better beer! So, the CAL. What are you looking for? Have you tried it and said "this would taste better if...?" What do you like to drink? I am working on a recipe with some honey malt and fuggles to go with this because I am looking for that profile. Browse the MB recipes to get some ideas and determine what you want out of it.
  13. That's okay, I bet it will taste good. My wheat only came in around 30, but going with the wheaty sweetness it balanced well. I will have to monitor this and perhaps make it someday!
  14. Looks like a mighty fine wheat beer there! What are your IBUs lookin' like?
  15. BIAB was my method when I brewed this batch. I don't have a setup that would have allowed me to follow their (less than ideal) instructions. I didn't have a hydrometer at that point since it was only my second batch, so I don't know how my efficiency was or any specifics. During the boil I lost over a half gallon, and ended up topping off with tap water. Filtering is definitely a must, when dealing with only one gallon the inch of hops and break sediment added greatly to the trub, meaning I only ended up with 9 bottles. Not really worth the hours it took me to brew, hence the switch to cider in that fermenter.
  16. Out of curiosity, was this a Brooklyn Brewshop kit? I have one myself, and after the same issues I use the carboy for ciders now.
  17. How much sugar did you add? If you used the MB recommendations, you are probably okay, they tend to send you to over carbonationville. You could follow the Nong's advice, he has never steered me wrong. If it were me, I would just let it ride and chalk another one to a learning experience. Also, welcome to the forum! We are here to help you learn from your mistakes (^) and make better beer!
  18. JimH


    Tastes yeasty. And it might give you the "yeasty" poops. Try not to pour it into your glass.
  19. JimH


    +1 When you put the sugar in the bottle the yeast eat it, and poop out trub and carbon dioxide. Just like the trub that was on the bottom of your LBK, you get a little in the bottle.
  20. Welcome to the forum BMMB (that name is a mouthfull)! You found the right place, there are lots of knowledgeable people here, and we are here to help you make better beer!
  21. Interesting. Umm, I would think that it would still mix and still be fermentable, so i can't think of any adverse effects. Although, you might miss your OG by adding more water.
  22. Lactose in non-fermentable, it has no effect on ABV. It only adds sweetness.
  23. You don't add lactose at bottling. At least that's not how I do it. I do (for a 1 gallon batch) 1/4 pound lactose. Boiled with 1/2 pound sugar, add in juice. Ferment. Bottle with sugar.
  24. Very nice! But if I may be a bit blunt, you have too much empty shelf space. Give in to the obsession, fill every nook!!!
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