Jump to content
Mr.Beer Community


Community Members
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

0 Neutral

About RaleighBrewer

  • Rank
  1. There are a lot of posts regarding this on the site, but I have tried this in the past. I picked up a 3.5 lb can of Munton's Cerveza at a LHBS and used just a packet of US-05 with it. For that type of beer, it tasted pretty good and I was satisfied with it. As others indicated, the taste is more bitter as it's intended for a 5-gallon batch with additional added sugars, so while that Cerveza worked out okay, perhaps it was because it's a light beer - it may be quite different had I tried some other type like a stout.
  2. I have made several standard Mr. Beer recipes in the past successfully and in all cases, I have noticed at least some trub in the bottom of the LBK after a couple of days. For my latest batch, I brewed an Irish Stout about 4 days ago with an OG of 1.070 and US-05 yeast. Since that time, it has been at high krausen with a lot of activity (foam to the top of the LBK for about 2-3 days) so I know its fermenting, but one unusual thing is that I see almost no trub at the bottom after 4-5 days. Is there a specific reason this is happening, as every other batch I've brewed has had at least some after the first day or two? Any insight is greatly appreciated!
  3. DME would have been my preference as well, next time I'll be sure to pick up a bag even if more than I need, then use as necessary. I guess my question is: Will the yeast starter still work (even to some extent) in the hop boil, in terms of having something in the water for the hops to bond to?
  4. Thanks for the feedback! There are no directions with the yeast starter, as it was entirely separate from the Munton's kit, the LHBS just recommended using that since their DME and UME were all in significantly larger portions. Since 3.5 oz is a little bit under 1/4 lb, I thought perhaps I should use most of it, since I would think it'd be a similar amount if boiling a portion of DME or UME along with the hops. I suppose this will be an experiment, so I will certainly post the outcome. From what I have read on the web, this Munton's Pilsner kit has an OG of 1.040 to 1.044, that would be in the range. Although, since I'm using the yeast starter a bit differently for the hops, not sure if that matters, although I am fairly new to this so it's all a fun learning experience! In terms of your question about the kit, were you asking for more info on the Munton's kit? They seem to be pretty widely available and what's nice is you get 3.3 to 4 lbs of LME for < $20. I tried their 3.3 lb LME Cerveza kit with only a yeast packet and it came out good, even though Munton's is intended for a 5 gallon batch.
  5. Hi All, Now that I have brewed several recipes successfully, I was planning to try a 30 min Saaz hop boil for the first time to add some extra bitterness and flavor to a pilsner I will be brewing. I stopped by a local brewing store and since most of their DME was in larger portions for 5+ gallon brews (I've read some of this needs to be in the hop boil, in order to achieve the bitterness and/or flavor of the hops, which wouldn't happen as well if only boiling them in water alone), they suggested I could also use a small 3.5 oz yeast starter pack in the wort. They told me this would help to achieve results somewhat similar to a DME in terms of having something in the water for the hops. I haven't seen this mentioned in the past, so I was curious to know if anyone had feedback on this approach? If it should work, how much of the 3.5oz should I use, considering I have 1 oz of Saaz hops. I'm not sure if it matters, but I will be using an approx 3.5 lb can of Munton's Pilsner LME with Safale US-05 yeast. Thanks!
  6. After a FG measurement has been taken just prior to bottling, will the value ever reduce any further during conditioning?
  7. I appreciate the feedback! I had thought that may be the case, but was not sure since I have only brewed 4 batches thusfar. For my last one I brewed using both a craft HME combined with a standard HME, which produced a higher ABV brew. I noticed that had quite a lot more build up in the bottom of the LBK than the one I bottled yesterday, which was a Cerveza (made from a single 3.5lb Muntons HME in an LBK).
  8. Since trub forms as a result of the fermentation process, is the amount of trub in any way related to the ABV of a beer? For example, do higher ABV beers generally produce more trub during fermentation than lower ABV beers? Or it is not related at all and has to do more with other factors like the ingredients, yeast, temperatures, etc? This is just more of a general curiosity type of question, as I've noticed varying amounts of trub when brewing my first few batches as a beginner.
  9. Thanks for the feedback! I have a separate LME (they told me it was un-hopped, but then the same person also admitted he just started working there and wasn't sure about some things...!) that I purchased from the LHBS as well - given that the HME won't require more sugar, I guess you would recommend that I save the LME for another time and just brew with the HME only?
  10. Aztec was one of the first I tried after receiving the MRB kit. I wasn't real impressed by the first one or two at 3-4 weeks, but the last ones from the batch were room conditioned about 6 weeks and then in the fridge another week. Those actually tasted much better and were very comparable to Corona, if not a little bit better...in my opinion.
  11. I currently have just 1 LBK and stopped by a local home brewing store this afternoon, where I picked up a 3.5 lb can of Munton's Cerveza HME. Since these are 3.5 lbs and intended for 5-6 gal brews, I see many posts where people split it into 2 LBK's. Has anyone tried brewing a 3.5 lb Munton's HME in just 1 LBK? If so, do I need to add anything else to the batch? (I see the Munton's calls for sugar when making the larger batch, but is that needed in the case of doing it in just the 1 LBK?). Many Mr. Beer recipes call for 2 cans of standard MB HMEs, which would seem to be about the same amount as a single can of Munton's. However, I am relatively new to this and wasn't sure if their HME is similar in content and ingredients to a MRB HME. Lastly, does anyone know the approx. ABV when using of a 3.5 lb Munton's HME? Thanks!
  12. Thanks for all of the feedback, I do appreciate it! I'm going to give it a shot with the 3.3# Munton's in the LBK and see how it turns out - now I just need to decide what type of beer
  13. I am a relatively new brewer and enjoying it! Although I've made some good basic recipes, I'm definitely still a novice when it comes to thoroughly understanding recipe combinations, etc. Since it is time to obtain new ingredients for my next batch, I was looking around at the various HMEs and have a basic question. From everything I read, it appears that the larger cans of HME from a company like Muntons are for larger batches, since the cans appear to be 3.3 lbs. In addition, I see people recommending splitting that size can into two LBKs. Do people recommend this in terms of just being able to get more quantity of beer from a single can, or would not splitting it actually create a problem in the LBK if you used it all? When looking at the MRB HME cans (1.87lbs for basic and 2.86lbs for craft), many Mr Beer recipes often call for 2 cans of HME (2 basic, 1 basic/1craft, etc) and I've done that successfully recently. That being the case, combining any two MRB cans would be more than the single Munton's can, so would it not be okay to use the whole can of Munton's? Or, is the Munton's formulated entirely differently as to where it would cause me an issue from that perspective? The reason I am asking is I thought perhaps I could save some money by purchasing a single can of Munton's for a receipe (~$20) as opposed to buying 2 cans of MRB HME (~$35) for a basic recipe packing a little bit extra punch, instead of using Booster and UHME. Either way, I'll be starting my next batch soon, but any/all feedback is always appreciated!
  14. I appreciate the feedback on the fermentation time. I'm 1 week into the fermentation process today and things look good. I'm planning to bottle it about a day shy of 3 weeks, then certainly plan on conditioning this one for more of an entended period of time due to the higher ABV. I agree that most of the time the longer it conditions, the better - usually my last ones to go in the fridge at the end of a batch taste the best.
  • Create New...