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ScottyP

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About ScottyP

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    Brewmaster in Training
  1. I have to commend MB on its updated brewing instructions. When I began brewing in December the instructions were to ferment for 7 days then bottle. I've noticed that they have recently updated the instructions for the newer recipes to say to ferment for 14 days min. then bottle. Some of the suggested layering times also seem to be updated to be much closer to appropriate times to achieve good flavor. Still, if you don't have a hydrometer, its best to ferment for 3 weeks prior to bottling. Overall, it seems like MB is doing a better job with their brewing instructions and new brewers that don't know of the Borg will benefit. Any one else notice any good changes recently? BTW what happened to the subscribe to topic to get responses emailed?
  2. "ScottyP" post=388958 said:Probably brewed already, but when I did BEG I gave the hops a 10 min boil. Gave good hop flavor and added a small amount to IBU. IMO brown eyed girl is one of the best Mr. B recipes. I should also say that I leave the hops in during entire brewing process when i do a boil. Have yet to be disappointed
  3. Probably brewed already, but when I did BEG I gave the hops a 10 min boil. Gave good hop flavor and added a small amount to IBU. IMO brown eyed girl is one of the best Mr. B recipes.
  4. Haven't tried summer seasonal but looking forward to fall and winter seasonal. Spring white IPA I find to be quite tasty, though I'm not as much of a hop head as some others are. Spring seasonal good, but not an IPA.
  5. Good points. Keep in mind that the temp inside the lbk can get 5-12+ degrees warmer than ambient temp. Most ale yeasts work best at consistent temps of 68-75 inside lbk. May need a few ice packs rotating to keep temps cool and consistent.
  6. Welcome! First off patience is your friend when it comes to brewing. Mr. B wants you to believe that you can make good beer in 2 weeks, when in actuality it takes much longer. You can make beer in 2 weeks, but it won't be what you are looking for. My rule of thumb for conditioning times are 1 week to Carb followed by 1 week additional for each abv percent up to 5% then 1 week additional per 1/2 percent after. A 6% beer should take about 8 weeks to Carb/condition at room temp. Then fridge 2-3 days and enjoy. This doesn't account for adjuncts such as booster, sugar, honey, or fruit which will take longer to condition. Secondly, I've used green grolsch bottles repeatedly without problems; just have to keep them in a box out of excessive light.
  7. Hello Borg! Seems like forever since we've last talked. After a few month break due to weather and time constraints I am brewing again. Brewed an Oktoberfest lager today with centennial and saaz hop additions and smooth me. I've noticed a slew of new recipes as well that I am looking forward to trying. Also I am looking forward to contributing to those who remember me and those who are new. Its good to be back!
  8. Bitterness is to be expected with a pale ale. Cider smell is just green beer. Let it ride. Ferment 18-21 days then bottle and let em sit 4-6 weeks at room temp then put 1 in fridge for 2 days and try. Flavor will be vastly different as the fermentation and carb/condition process moves forward
  9. Most likely not an infection. Looks normal to me, just some floating yeast colonies. If you've got an infection you will know it. If not by looks then certainly by taste.
  10. Congrats on the successful brew! For bottle priming I buy the 1tsp sugar cubes and use 1 per 16 oz bottle and 2 1/2 for the 1 liters. Gives a good carb level for my tastes. If you haven't checked out screwy brewers website there are a number of calcs on there that can tell you how much sugar to add for the style of the beer you are making.
  11. Rose's Ramblin' Red, 1776 Ale, Defib Doppelbock, and Brown Eyed Girl are amongst my favorites. Brown Eyed Girl reminds me of a cross between a New Castle and Leinie's Fireside Nut Brown. 1776 Ale (I named it Founding Fathers Ale) is an easy drinking session style beer with a bit of a hop backbone, but not bitter-at about 4.2%abv you get a good flavored beer that won't knock you on your ass. I agree that Ramblin' Red is more on the malty side. Be careful if you brew the DD as it carries a high above and will take several months to condition well; also lbk temp jumps 10+ degrees so ferment on the low side. One quick tip, though some may disagree, is that any recipe that has hop additions I always give the hops short boil with the lme or DME to add flavor.
  12. congrats! Glad it turned out for you. Patience is your best friend when it comes to brewing - I think the results speaks for itself.
  13. Welcome to the best forum on the net. Good luck in your quest to brew great beer.
  14. Your FG and OG are unlikely to match what is stated. The slightest change in the amount of water or the amount of malt left in the can or soft pack can influence OG. What I do is take my original hydro reading whole number (ie 45 for an OG of 1.045) and multiply by 0.25 to get an approximate FG. This is assuming a 75% yeast attentuation for most ale yeasts. If you know the attentuation potential of you yeast then (100 minus attentuation number) would give you the number to multiply by. Example: the yeast you are using has an attentuation potential of 68% and your OG is 1.060 you would take 60 X 0.32 to give your expected FG. Its actually pretty accurate.
  15. There was a more recent post about temp control. Here's the link - kind of a cool gadget.http://community.mrbeer.com/forum/8-new-brewers-and-faqs/370238-solution-to-not-buying-an-air-conditioner
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