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joejkd82

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About joejkd82

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  1. After 4 months of tweaking, I've finally landed on a "house" IPA. The flavor profile I go for is bright, piney, grapefruit. A classic, crisp American IPA. I love bold pine flavor, and I think I've finally landed on my favorite recipe and combination of hops to accomplish that. Enjoy: 2.13 gal All Grain 5.5lb Pale 2-row .5lb crystal 40L Mash at 150F (60min or 90min for BIAB) Add .5lb sugar while heating up for boil .25oz Chinook 60min .50oz Centennial 15min .50oz Columbus 15min .25oz Chinook 15min .50oz Centennial 10min Dry Hop 1oz Centennial .50oz Columbus .25oz Chinook Yeast US-05 Ferment 2 weeks primary then dry hop 1 week in fermenter (so 3 total weeks in primary), then transfer dry hop bag to keg for 1.5-2 weeks cold conditioning while "set and forget" I like to shake the keg half way through just a little to get those hop particles moving about. Probably unnecessary, but what the hey. Yum.
  2. Good deal, I'll keg this weekend. I did pick up some unscented/unflavored dental floss a day ago, as the last dry hop i did in the keg did end up blocking my pick up. It is waxed (couldn't find "unwaxed", not sure if there is such a thing) but I assume that's not a problem. Whereabouts do you suspend it? About mid-way through the keg?
  3. I have a time-sensitive question for the :borg: I have an American IPA currently in primary (OG 1.067). It's down to 1.012 and stable for 4 days running. This brew is going to be kegged and served on the 4th of July. Being a 2.13 gal batch, I only need 5 days for set-and-forget force carb. My question is on taste quality. It will have been 2 weeks in primary by this coming Saturday. I anticipate my keg to free up on Sunday. Should I keg it now and give it a nice week and a half to cold condition, or should I give it another week in primary (my usual routine is 3 weeks primary, 1 week condition/carb in keg) then carb up? Either way the beer is ready on time, but I'm not sure if more warm time or cold time at this point is most beneficial to the beer for taste. If it matters, I have a dry hop going on right now (it will be 6 days on Sunday) that I plan on transferring with the beer to the keg.
  4. 2 months is super ambitious but if you get pros working on it it's certainly doable if they've got time open. I'm clearing out my basement where my keezer currently is. No bar or anything going in but my house is 90 years old and the basement was stone/rubble that was concreted over. Basically it needs patching/waterproofing, so that means getting real familiar with some hydraulic cement, drylock, and interlocking floor tiles. Be interested to hear how your Columbus blonde turns out. I've seen it listed that Columbus is a substitute for Centennial, but I think they taste nothing alike. However, Columbus is probably my favorite hop I've also seen that a more accurate proxy for Centennial is a roughly 60/40 cascade/Columbus blend. I believe the centennial blonde recipe has late cascade additions, so you should be good to go, though I think you'll end up with a bit more pine (yum!) with that 35min addition being there and this being a small beer. Should be tasty brew. Did you go BIAB? What did you mash at? I'm always looking at good ideas to make my BIAB process even easier or more efficient.
  5. Funny enough, I popped open a fresh bottle of Stone IPA last night, which I've never had before. I've always had Arrogant Bastard Ale from them, which is heavy on the chinook to my understanding and does not taste piney to me. This thing was a freaking pine bomb. Bright, piney, and minty. Almost....German to a degree? So I go adventuring on Google expecting full well to find that Stone IPA is made with loads of chinook and/or simcoe. Their website says "Columbus, Centennial, Chinook". Ok, no surprises there. So I go looking for clone recipes to see how people have been emulating this beer (another great way of figuring out hop character I find is discovering beers you like, and seeing how people have copied them). BYO did an article on a slew of Stone clones, and I find the feature flavor hop is.....Centennial. Loads and loads of Centennial late and whirlpooled. The dry hop does have some chinook, but other than that it's more centennial. I see it's bittered with Magnum and Perle. Now I know bittering hops aren't supposed to convey flavor, just perceptions of bitterness (esepcially since these are boiled for 90min.), but I researched it anyway. I found that Perle adds a minty, evergreen bitterness to beer. I perceive pine (to a much lesser extent) in Sierra Nevada pale ale also, and find they bitter that with Magnum/Perle combination also. I'm starting to believe that the interplay between the bittering addition and the flavor addition is what brings out the character of the hop you're using. ALL my pale ales, I bitter with chinook, using it as sort of a constant as I play around with the flavor, aroma, and dry hop additions. I'm starting to think I can acheive a more favorable piney profile if I bittered with something else, say Columbus or Perle. What is the :borg: 's experience? Have you noticed changes in flavor with different bittering/flavor pairings?
  6. Hey all. I've been experimenting with various iterations of IPA and IIPA since March, playing around with various combinations of Chinook, Simcoe, Centennial, Cascade, and Columbus (not all in one brew, though one of the ones I made does have it all in one brew). I know when someone says "which hops are the piniest" Chinook and Simcoe jump to the top of everyone's mind. However, that hasn't been my experience. I find that Chinook gives a peppery, spicy and sometimes even garlicy (when the beer is very young) quality. The more a beer ages with it, the more a spicy grapefruit character reveals itself. Simcoe tastes tropical as hell to me, like Orange and Passionfruit. I don't get pine off of it at all. Columbus, on the other hand, when aged about 2 weeks cold, gives off a lot of pine notes, way more than any of the other hops on the spectrum. I find when I combine Columbus with Centennial late boil, a big pine/grapefruit bite is established. To summarize, I get big clean pine finishes mixing Columbus, centennial, and Chinook. It could just be me, we all taste differently, or perhaps it's my brew water interacting with the hops. It could be because I brew my porter with actual pine needles and what I think pine tastes like is different than what other people think. I don't know, just wanted to throw it out there and see what the :borg: 's experience has been.
  7. NICE! This did the trick. I set the batch size to 2.5gal, and was able to adjust efficiency to where it belongs (65%) for my BIAB set up. Can't wait to brew my next batch up and see if I can finally hit my numbers!
  8. Hey all. I've had the title problem creep up 3 times now. Not sure what the deal is. I'm brewing all grain BIAB. Yesterday my recipe was: 5.5lb pale 2-row .5lb crystal 40L .5lb table sugar .25oz Chinook 60min .5oz centennial 15min .5oz Columbus 15min .25oz Chinook 15min .5oz Centennial 10min I use Beersmith 2 for my recipes. Estimated pre-boil gravity was 1.046 and I came in at 1.045. I mashed at 151F for 90 minutes. The mash was 149F when time was up. I did a mashout at 168F and held that for 10min. My boil-off and volume were right on target with this one also, hitting 2.5 gallons (batch size is 2.13, but I allotted for .4 gallons of loss to trub for this recipe on account of the large amount of pellet hops). Beersmith put OG at 1.072 (at an assumed total efficiency of 60%). I came in at 1.067. I brewed a Hefeweizen last week and was dead on with my OG. I'm starting to thing it has something to do with the table sugar additions. The first brew this happened to me on I put the .5lb of sugar in at flameout. I figured maybe it didn't full dissolve so this time I put it in at the beginning of the boil. Same result. Any ideas why my efficiency is so low? Is it possible my hydrometer just isn't reading accurately because of all the hops or something? I tested the hydro in 60F water and it is accurate.
  9. I don't think you'll be disappointed going no sparge. I routinely am in the 68-73% efficiency range. In fact my first ever AG batch was 68% efficiency brewing this way Just make sure you don't skip mash out, you need it to help get the sugars out since you won't be rinsing them.
  10. Trying to get something simple going for an IIPA (if there is such a thing). Here's what I've got: 5.5lb pale 2 row (American) .5lb 40L Crystal .5lb table sugar@flameout Mash@151F for 90 min (BIAB style, no sparge) Mash out @ 168F 60min boil .25oz Chinook 60min .75oz Cascade 15min .50oz Chinook 15min .50oz Chinook 7min .50oz Cascade 7min Pitch US-05 Dry hop 14 days with: 1oz Cascade 1oz Chinook I'm going for Grapefruit/Pine, with herbal and floral nature as secondary qualities. I would like to avoid Orange/tangerine/bright citrus qualities on this one. Should I ditch Chinook for Simcoe? I've never brewed with Simcoe so I'm not sure how it stacks up on that profile. I have had Weyrbacher's double simcoe and it was like drinking passion fruit juice to me. It wasn't my favorite. Cascade I feel is very piney, as when I have a SN pale ale, I get a lot of pine/grapefruit spectrum out of it. Does anyone else get pine out of cascade? I'm hoping this pairing will bring out those qualities from each hop. Does anyone have experience with this pairing? Would Centennial be a better fit? Simcoe? I'm trying to keep it to 2 hops on this one as I've been doing a lot of 3 and 4 hop brews and I'm in the mood to dial back the complexity a bit and highlight certain flavor characteristics.
  11. Yes, this one will definitely be in regular rotation. It actually came out more citrus than I thought it would, those centennials are powerful and very complex. I get everything from honey to flowers to oranges to slight pine when I taste them.
  12. Hey All Haven't posted in a while, but I've been chugging along brewing about every other weekend. I hit on a great IIPA recipe, got rave reviews. Smells of orange and honey (though there's no honey in it) and herbal, and tastes of grapefruit, pine, and a little spice. 2.13 gal batch Mash at 151F 5lb Pale 2-row 8oz Crystal 40 4oz Crystal 20 60min Boil .25oz Chinook 60 min .5oz centennial 15 min .25oz Chinook 15 min .25oz Columbus 15 min .5oz centennial 10 min cool and pitch safale US-05 Dry hop after 5 days for 14 days with 1oz Columbus 1oz centennial .25oz Chinook I keg carbed on the high end because I feel it enhances bitterness when doing a hop burst such as this by adding a nice cut to your quaff, so I went for 39F at 14PSI (I think that's like 2.6-2.8 volumes). I let it carb and condition in the keg for 7 days before I tap it and drink. I also do all my additions commando (including the dry hop) for what it's worth. I wish I could share a glass with all you other hop heads! OG was 1.062, FG came in at 1.010 so about 6.8-7% ABV Next up another crack at an IIPA.....
  13. I brew exclusively BIAB in 2.5gal batches, and do mostly Old Ales and IIPA's. I have a 5 gal pot. I use beersmith to get my volumes, but to do BIAB "truest" to form, you do not do a sparge at all. Basically, the amount of water you use is your final volume + boil-off + estimated losses to trub, chilling equip, etc (this is where beersmith would come in). I raise my water to strike temp (about 7 degrees higher than mash for me) on my electric range (ceramic, no less!), preheat my oven to 190, dough in, kill the heat on the oven, cover the kettle and pop it in the oven for heat retention for 90 min. At then end of the mash, the pot goes back on the range, I raise the temp slowly (like I have a choice :laugh: ) to 168, kill the heat, and pull the grain bag. Then the pot goes outside to my propane burner (I use a Bayou Classic fish fryer burner I picked up for $50. For 2.5-5 gal volumes anything 60k BTU or higher should do you fine) and perform my boil there. Brew day is like anyone else's at that point. If you want a recipe I just posted this if you want to do a 2.5 gal batch: Go Here
  14. good news...took a sip and it's mellowed out and the grapefruit is starting to come through. I think it'll end up decent. I think i'm going to give the recipe another try as it was without messing up the volume so I can hit my intended OG. I will also sub centennial in for cascade, and put a small amount in with the chinook flavor addition.
  15. I believe the reason you're not supposed to use dish soap on an LBK has less to do with dish soap and more to do with the fact that you shouldn't be using very hot water to rinse them since the thin plastic is prone to warping. Since many dish soaps do not rinse well without hot water, there is a possibility residue would be left behind. I use dish soap (dawn scented, probably the "worst" thing you could use) on my corny keg all the time to conserve my b-brite for my LBK and never have any issues. Basically, if you made sure to rinse the crap out of your lbk, I don't see any reason why you should be worried about it. RDWHAHB :gulp:
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