Jump to content
Mr.Beer Community


Community Members
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Sluggo

  1. Foothiller - Thanks for the tips. I really appreciate it. Couple questions: 1) how long should I keep the BIAB in the pot at 152? And how do you know what the time should be for a full BIAB, and or a partial like this one? 2) So you add the DME after you remove the grain bag after steeping (approx 152, as the boil up starts? Great suggestion. 3) Does it affect the results if you steep the grain in 2 gallons of water vs. 6 gallons. I'm not a chemistry guy at all,, but I would think there would be some impact I'd have to compensate for as the 2 gallon steep would have less dilution....???? Thanks!
  2. Can anyone look at his and let me know if I have my process right? It's been 9 months since my last brew, and just want to make sure I have it all right. http://www.hopville.com/recipes/s-sluggos-white-winterland-ipa-simple-extr-and-biab This is a simpler version of a White IPA, using DME. The other version will be a full BIAB. It hits property ranges for the American IPA, except for SRM, which is intended with the white IPA.Place 6 gallons in 10 gallon brew pot. Put pot on burner and bring to 150. Put BIAB's in pot for 20 minutes, keeping temp between 145 & 155 as tight to 152 as possible. After 20 minutes, bring to boil. Add DME. Boil and begin 60 minute countdown for additions as noted below.After 60 minutes, bring Wort to 100F ASAP using cooling techniques. Add wort to fermenter. Top off fermenter for 5 gallons.Aerate.At 78F, add yeast.Seal fermenter.(could start with 3 gallons, and add fresh spring water after cooling)
  3. THanks. Will give those beers a try and see how I like them.
  4. soooo......what are you asking for them?
  5. I had one of these the other night and thought it was terrific. Going to go buy a six of it and try to disect it and come up with a clone. Anyone seen a clone out there or have any suggestions? I see absolutely nothing out there on any forums. Any help would be appreciated!
  6. 2 more questions in this scenario 1). How do you see if it clears in a dark brown keg? 2) if yeast activity is done and it clears, it's ok for LT storage in bottles? 3) is it ok to be at 75 degr room temp for long term storage?
  7. Thoughts on doing this in the LBK? I have 3 sitting idle and would love to put them to good use I'm worried about after fermentation is complete and letting it bulk age for a few months
  8. "dogsnharleys" post=374183 said:Excellent Beer had one while working on home remodel, while I find most Belgians a little overpoweringly sweet with a strong aftertaste, I quite enjoyed this one and will be putting it in my clone que. All in all quite powerful and snuck up on me. Will be my new go to brew, when out of home brew. Home remodel almost finished time to start brewing again next weekend. At $4-5 for a 22oz beer, it's not my commercial go-to. But it is my home brew go to. I'm finishing up my batch of this. I'm going to add even more last minute hops, and decrease the earlier hops a bit. Slightly less bitter finish, and slightly more grapefruit tones is what I'm going for to "Perfect" this one.
  9. How can that be JOAM if we don't see any orange peels?
  10. ChizzleD - it was OUTSTANDING. Very hoppy. Grapefruit finish. My go to brew, and about 1/2 way thru drinking the batch. Have yet to do a taste test against the commercial stuff but will do so in the next few days to see if it's spot on. I used 2-Row Briess and 570 yeast
  11. Bad yeast. When you added to 98, did you immediately dump into the wort? If so, maybe rapid temperature change killled the little guys. Was the yeast active when you rehydrated?
  12. I pitched the whole thing...both jars. You all convinced me to give the yeast recovery one more shot. Thanks for the encouragement. I'll try it in 10-14 days after I move this to a secondary. It's going to sit in secondary for a bit longer than normal ... 2-3 more weeks. It's a clone of Two Hearted Ale from Michigan. Overshot my target...hit 1.065 instead of 1.064. Close like Horseshoes is a good thing.
  13. ok. Since I've had poor results reharvesting yeast, I may try something else. For the first time, I tried a yeast starter. 1 quart sterile water, 4 oz LME, with the initial pitch of the American Ale liquid yeast. I split the starter into 2 jars, with foil covering both. After 24 hrs, its bubbling away. It appears, by naked eye, that both jars yeast doubled in size...nice thick white yeast layer at bottom. Do you think I'm safe pitching just the one jar, and save the other for another brew day?
  14. Has anyone drilled a hole in their better bottle and installed a Spigot? Seems like a good idea for bottling, but wanted to check with the Borg just to make sure I'm not missing something before I drill the hole.
  15. I've thought a long while about moonshine. Do share your recipe! "Bingman111" post=365987 said:Not sure if this helps, but I ferment my moonshine in one of those. I clean the krausen out in the tub in the bathroom and sanitze before using again.
  16. Looking to buy 3-4 Hop plants, specifically established Crowns. Anyone have any ideas on where to get them. Looking for Centennial or Cascade. Google isn't coming up with anything. Great Lakes has some hops, but not that variety.
  17. I'm going to make some Mead today in a 1G glass jar using the JAOM recipe. Wondering if anyone uses LBK's to make it, and whether the negative pressure system works for a longer term fermentation (1-2 months). I want to try a couple other variations, so looking to make 2-3 batches.
  18. Did you brew this in your LBK? Wondering how it would do long term in the LBK. Also thinking of JOAM in the LBK but concerned about leaving it in there for a month or two. "Trollby" post=292951 said:October 28, 2012 Brew #46 Blueberry Mead ----------------------- Brewer: Trollby Style: Mead Batch: 1.50 galExtract Characteristics --------------- Recipe Gravity: 1.077 OG Recipe Bitterness: 0 IBU Recipe Color: 3° SRM Estimated FG: 1.019 Alcohol by Volume: 7.5% Alcohol by Weight: 5.9% Ingredients ----------- Honey 3.00 lb, Sugar, Other Oregon Fruit - Bluberries 1.81 lb, Adjunct, Other Lalvin 71B-1122 1.00 unit, Yeast, Flocculation – medium; Temperature Range: 59°-86° F 5.0 GRAMS ; Alcohol tolerance up to 14% Yeast Nutrients 1.00 unit, Additive, 1 tsp per 1 gallon Notes ----- Recipe Notes: 2 quarts bottled or filtered water in a 5 quart pot bring to a boil, remove from heat. Add honey and Blueberries, mix well. Add Nutrients and cool to 80*F Rehydrate Yeast in 2 oz (50ml) water between 104 - 109*F, wait 15 min then stir. blend in some must slowly to temper and bring yeast up to gravity (about 5min) Take OG sample Aerate the Must and add the yeast, mix well and aerate again. Maintain temp between 70-80*F for approx 30 days. Batch Notes: OG = 1.080 @ 75*F I decided to try a more "mild" mead, rather than the 11+ ABV stuff. I figure 7.5% or so for it will make a nice wine cooler style mead and the Lalvin 71B-1122 likes to keep wines sweet it shoud do the same here.
  19. All - I need a little advice and counsel regarding the recipe below. It's called Dead Ringer from NB. Instead of the kit, I'm going to buy the ingredients from my local home brew shop. I'd rather not do all grain, but rather use LME/DME and BIAB for some grain/hops if needed. I think this process will be within my skill set. The one part I'd like to convert is the 11lbs of Rahr 2-Row into some combination of either/both LME and DME. Is there a good conversion to this that someone can suggest? DEAD RINGER IPA MASH INGREDIENTS - 11 lbs. Rahr 2-Row - 1 lbs. Briess Caramel 40 MASH SCHEDULE: SINGLE INFUSION Sacch’ Rest: 152° F for 60 minutes Mashout: 170° F for 10 minutes BOIL ADDITIONS & TIMES 0.75 oz. Centennial (60 min) 1 oz. Centennial (20 min) 2 oz. Centennial (5 min) DRY HOPS 1 oz. Centennial – add to secondary fermenter one to two weeks before bottling day YEAST DRY YEAST (DEFAULT): Safale US-05. Optimum temperature: 59–75°F
  20. Maybe you nailed it with the addition of 1 gallon. The yeasties in my jar are all the trub/yeast from the bottom of the LBK, plus about a cup of water. Everything is a whole lot thicker than your process where you are adding a gallon of water. I bet my yeasties can't get with their team and are stuck in the crowd of others I'll try 1 gallon method and then split into 3-4 jars
  21. compared to the sugar cubes I was using, this is tiny carb. I'd use one cube per 12oz bottle. 2.5g/cube and 22 beers is 55 g vs my final 43 on batch (after some adjustments on volume). I like this method better. After I cooled sugar water to 77, I poured in wort (already transfered to slimline). Stirred for 30 seconds. Waited 15 minutes to bottle...allowed to settle a bit. Do you all cold crash your bottling bucket? I was thinking that might be a good idea next time.
  22. I'm boiling the sugar in 1 cup water. I believe it makes no difference how much water you use (1-2 cups), as that amount of water is not going to affect the beer, but may have something to do with not disolving the sugar if too little. Both Tasty Brew site (by 4stringdude) and Screwy site (by Jim) are coming in at 1.6 oz of white table sugar. I'm running with it. Thanks guys!
  23. Jim - Thanks for the quick reply's. I think I'm in the relative territory here. Just not sure what "residual CO2" means, and it's a variable I can apparently adjust. I've left it alone at .76, but I'm not convinced yet that it's correct. My figures agree with yours and I'm thinking 36.3grams must be in the ballpark. Any idea what the "residual CO2" is, and how I should adjust?
  • Create New...