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  1. So this is flavor only? Or will i also get dextrins that contribute body?
  2. Been doing lots of offline reading of Joys of Homebrewing. However, Charlie has confused me and i need to ask someone directly: When mashing specialty grains (specifically Crystal, Black Patent, Roasted, and CaraPils) do you need to add enzymes? All of these are very high temperature maltings, which would in theory denature the enzymes. However the book is full of PM recipes using only specialty malts, being mashed for 30 minutes @ 145-160. There is no 2 row or 6 row, no extract, and no added enzymes. Black Patent, Crystal, Roasted, and Carapils are all listed in the book as enzyme free, needing to be mashed in the presence of higher enzyme malts. Am I actually extracting anything useful? Am I converting starches to fermentables, or dextrins, or anything?
  3. If you really want the stained look or have it sitting around, deck stain will work great. If not and you just want to seal the sucker, get a 4oz minwax (or any brush on brand) polyurethane (oil base, needs paint thinner to clean up your brushes and tools) or poly-acrylic (water based, soap & water to clean up). Put 1 coat on, dry for ~2 hours, light sanding with 220 grit multi-purpose sandpaper, then toss on the second coat. If you can, SPAR-Polyurethane will work the best, but is probably in a 16oz as the smallest size. Application: natural bristle brushes for oil base, artificial for water-based. Tack or staining cloth if your up for the challenge and want it to look really great, but if you're using scrap plywood, do not bother. No matter what you coat it (urethane, spar urethane, or acrylic) with DON'T SHAKE THE CAN. It's not paint, it doesn't need to mix, it will just get a jillion little bubbles and the seal won't be worth anything. Deck stains are really different depending on the brand, base, type, opacity, tints, ect. Consult the back of can for mixing instructions. Not that I work at a hardware store or anything...
  4. @OikoEco I'm from Glen Ellyn! ... but live next door to Evanston now. Have a friend in who brews in Addison, and i believe another guy just started selling his own stuff in the area (maybe Lombard or Lisle), a Flesk Brewery, makes "Front Towards Enemy" IPA.
  5. Still brewing, but i took my first sample the other day (wednesday, 18 days after it was brewed). Rough. Like paint thinner rough. This one is gonna need some time. I think the Red i made 11 days later might get bottled at the same time as this guy. My only real concern is it didn't taste a ton like apples. But maybe that was the grain alcohol just driving everything else off. Would adding 1 Qt of pasturized organic cider help out with that? What would it do to the fermentation/final product? Continuing as i currently am, it should be drinkable by Memorial Day, but much better come the fourth of july.
  6. Having started this and looked back at my recipe, i really, really need a bigger pot. This pot is 5 Qts at best and i need to add at least 1 Qt of concentrate to the gallon that's in there, plus 2.5 lbs of sugars, then boil it. After the grains have steeped I guess I'll pour off about half into a side pot, and recombine that with the wort in the lbk after all the additions have been made to it. Any problems with going that route?
  7. So she pretty much only drinks Woodchuck hard cider, and a few different wines, so i'm gonna take a stab at this. Found this a couple days back and decided iit would be a decent b-day gift (combined with something else i still can't figure out) "FrozenInTime" post=339334 said:This is from our Nong, u can search thingy for it, I think he's changed it a tad: PPS 5 cans of apple juice concentrate 2 pounds white sugar .5 pound lactose 3 tsp pumpkin pie spice 1 pack Champaign yeast Boil water long enough to solidify the sugar, lactose and spice, remove from heat, dump in concentrate. Chill to pitching temp then pitch yeast. Leave in fermentor for 4 weeks, bottle. . I could not find the original recipe (or it's most recent incarnation) via the search, and after some talking with the guys at the LHBS, I decided Honey Malt would be added. They do not sell honey extract, and the honeycombed oak / white ash used for flavoring wine was a not something they recommended. So, my plan here is: Steep grains (.25 lbs honey Malt already milled at LHBS) in 1 gallon water, in grain bag for 15-20 minutes @ 150*F. Remove and sparge with cold water (boiled and chilled) Add concentrate and sugars (possibly even .6 or .65 lbs lactose, she loves the sweet stuff). The spice is going to be more like 1.5 - 2 tsp because the added character of the honey malt, I wanna make sure apples are taste-able in here somewhere too. Cool, add to LBK (fillled with water to absorb shock), top off to 8.5 Qts. I'm going to take a gravity reading here, i have no idea what it will be but i'm aiming to have it as close to 1.000 by the end of primary, so i'm not that worried about it. Dried Danstar Pastuer Champagne Yeast, pitch half the 5 gal baggie. Cap and wait 2.5 weeks for second grav. reading and so she can give it a taste. Any suggestions or corrections? This will be my first PM, but i really wanna add in the honey element and this is the way I was told to after a long discussion with the LHBS guys.
  8. "FrozenInTime" post=339334 said: 5 cans of apple juice concentrate What size concentrate can?
  9. Mostly what i've read is the impact will be to body, head, and color, but if not i'll probably stick with the cheapest.
  10. So I'm making a Bohemian Bronze w/ saison yeast, and was planning on priming with Honey. I have been told on here that the honey flavor will not come through after 3-5 weeks of conditioning. I also read in Complete Joy of Homebrewing (which is freaking awesome) that it will aid in head retention but thin the mouthfeel a small amount. DME is often quoted as the primer of choice for batch priming, and given the fact that I did not add any on my last order, I was wondering if anyone could point me towards a good choice from this LHBS. These are the DMEs in stock and i'll be able to get over on Saturday to pick some up for a Sunday bottling. I am leaning towards Pilsen, but the wheat could also go well to lighten the color a small amount. I'm already off recipe for the Bohemian Bronze so i'm not worried about brewing it exactly the first time, just wanna have a nice brew, and it's my first time batch priming so i wanna do it right. Thanks in advance :borg: !
  11. "Wings_Fan_In_KC" post=335516 said:* facepalm * Ok, probably deserved that.
  12. Ok, well, i'm expecting less from my expiremental bottles then, but will still look for a difference if there is one to be had. Wouldn't LME work better for priming?
  13. Really? I had read that it could matter for priming, but not if added to the wort at brewing time as too much time would pass and everything would either breakdown or head down to the trub. Even Molasses? That stuff is pretty thick and powerful.
  14. For my next batch (I don't know what yet, probably a Red) I'm going to give Batch priming a go, as it seems about 2 hours quicker. But i'm wondering about the batch after. One i'm planning to make often is the Defibrillator. I made this as my second batch and primed 3 bottles w/ honey, 3 raw sugar, 3 at two thirds recommended amount of white sugar for a softer carb, and the rest normally with Granulated White Sugar (GWS). I've since read in "Joy of Homebrewing" that raw isn't any different than GWS. This is depressing because I would have used molasses if i had known that white and raw were identical. So obviously, the honey is the one i'm looking forward to. Planning on having one at 4 weeks, and the other two at ten day intervals after that so i can see how it matures, which honey apparently takes some time to do. My fear for this is that it will just taste like honey, and not have any depth to it. So two questions: Could you combine multiple primers into one? For example, I use 1/3 the recommended amount of GWS, 1/3 honey's recommended, and 1/3 Molasses's measurement. Would this give me a lighter flavor of each, while still providing all the necessary carbing sugars, or would the GWS get eaten first as it has the simplest structure, then a shifted preference towards honey, and then the heavy and complicated molasses is converted last? This second schedule seems more likely, but not too terribly strict. Some Honey and Molasses would be converted off the bat, but would the flavor profile still shift rather wildly during the secondary ferment? This is not really a question i'm looking to limit to the Dopple either. My Saison attempt is now one week old, and will be experimented with as well during the priming stage. Some will get honey, some with get softer or harder GWS carbs. Flavor aside, I've also heard some awesome things about what molasses and honey do for body, head retention, and so on. In fact, the main reason I ask all of this is I don't plan on going to Mashes or Partial Boils or AG anytime soon (year at least). I want to have lots of wiggle room and comfort with Hops (including boils, my next big step, at least 3 batches off in the future) and Extracts. Just looking for a way to personalize and fine tune some depth and body into the simpler recipes. Thanks for all the help!
  15. So this isn't going to affect the beer at all, but I do not know if I am currently going Commando or using a Hop Sack. The reason I do not know if I am using one or not is that while ponderin my brew at work, i realized why stirring the wort was so hard. You see, after pouring the HME, LME, Booster mix into the LBK, I stirred the mix. With a Wisk. Something on the bottom of the keg gave me resistance, and having already forgotten hops were used this time (first time with them in the mix), I assumed it was thick HME or LME. I wisked the crap out of it. Yeah... that was totally the hop sack. Oh well, guess i'll just Cold Crash it to make sure they all fall out of suspension. Next time, i'll make sure to aerate prior to adding the hops.
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