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khawk95

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About khawk95

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    Brewmaster in Training

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    Male
  • Location
    Iowa
  • Interests
    Umm, Brewing Beer!
  1. I know it can work if you don't have a starter prepared, or did not oxygenate enough, but with a large enough yeast pitch, and enough O2 injected into the wort, it just isn't necessary. You also have to be sure that fermentation hasn't started before you drop the temp down. If you wait too long, you will get off flavors that will take extended time to condition out. A D-rest can help towards the end, but if you ferment at the proper temps from the beginning, it's also not necessary in my experience. IMHO, it's just not worth the risk of uncharacteristic lager yeast flavors.
  2. A note: I would never recommend pitching lager yeast that warm. I would instead recommend ensuring a proper yeast pitching amount and pitch at the ferment temp typical of a lager. You are likely going to create a butter-bomb of diacetyl with a pitch like that...
  3. You will have beer. RDWHAHB
  4. Agree 100%. Bought an 8 gallon pot for 5 gallon batches, and I had a boil over every other batch. Upgraded to 15 gallons after suffering for a year. Now I use the 8 gallon for a hot liquor tank. I did get ball valves and thermometers for both pots. It was worth it in my opinion, I love not having to stick a thermometer in to check on the cooled wort temp.
  5. Boiling water will remove chlorine, but not choramines. If you taste it in your water, get a water report and that can tell you the best actions to take. I use tap water for extract batches and reverse osmosis water for all grain. If I use reverse osmosis water, I have to add back minerals to the water to get the profile I want. Only for all grain batches. Tap water is fine for extract batches if water tastes good!
  6. Every home brew has a dose of Brewers yeast. For sale at all health food store due to the nutrients. That's why the hangovers aren't as bad when you drink home brew (assuming you don't drink a full batch)
  7. My process for lagers looks like this: Ferment at low end of yeast temp range until 75% attenuation is reached (usually about 8-10 days), raise temp to 55-60 for D-rest. Keep at that temp until taste test yields no diacetyl perceptible (usually 3-5 days) and FG is reached. Rack to secondary, then reduce temp to 34 degrees. Lager for 5-7 weeks. Then Keg. If you are bottling at this point, you will want to add extra yeast for priming with sugar. Alternatively, you could lager in the keg if you have one free (I usually don't). Patience is key with Lagers. a pipeline is essential.
  8. If you do a taste test, and it tastes like creamed corn, you may need some additional D-rest time. Keep that in mind. You can't rush a lager. I was recently reminded of that with a classic american pils. I pitched on a yeast cake, and it still took 3 weeks to reach FG.
  9. khawk95

    AG Brew Day

    Brewing an Anchor Steam Beer clone.
  10. I have an 8 gallon and a 15 gallon. But I do full boils. No worry of boil over with DME.
  11. I support and reject this message potentially, depending on how the polls come back. Vote for me!
  12. Yes. I meant thick density. As in, it's like a layer of cement in the bottom of the fermenter.
  13. Record keeping is key. I use brew pal to track all recipies and notes. It keeps track of ferment dates, mash schedule, water chemistry, etc. I do wish I had kept a better record of tasting notes over the years. It's hard to remember how a beer tastes after 5 gallons have come and gone...
  14. Yeast will dramatically change a beer. Sometimes it can change a beer from one style to another. The yeast book mentioned by Rick is a good one. If you like to research, I strongly recommend it. While dry yeast is easier, liquid offers variety. I haven't used dry yeast for a long time because I like to play mad scientist. If yeast interests you, research starters, harvesting, and ensure sanitation. It's really not that hard if you are willing to invest the time and research. It is one of my favorite parts of the hobby!
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