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GodSpeed005

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About GodSpeed005

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  1. I've seen a few people have added honey to there wort to add flavor/increase ABV. Whats everyones take on this practice? I have some honey on hand, but I'm also not sure if its enough or the right type? When is the best time to add it to the fermenter? Appreciate any feedback and advice. :cheers:
  2. I have 16 Grolsch flip top bottles I just used for the second time. The hardest part will be finding enough of them at a decent price to bottle with. They get expensive if your trying to bottle several LBK's or a 5 gallon batch. Also, Amazon has the gaskets for purchase, as does eBay. I love the flip top bottles, but man, its expensive to get enough of them (at $8.99 a 4 pack - at least I get to drink the beer first).
  3. There isn't a possibility of "over-tightening", is there? I really gave them my all when tightening, since I had read some stories on here about exploding bottles and noncarbing beer because of sub-par tightening. I have my glass Grolsch bottles right next to my plastic bottles, then the rest of our pantry goods next to them all. Wouldnt want to ruin my other beer, or Cheez-its.
  4. I got the Mr. Beer 16oz plastic bottling system they had on sale. My question is: Are the caps re-usable? I thought I read that they were? But it looks like the lower plastic ring will pop off the cap when I go to open them? Will I have to purchase all new twist on caps once I'm done with the bottles? I was about to purchase 2 more bottling kits but wanted to ask this real quick. I have a problem: I have too much beer that needs bottling, but am coming up short on bottles. Did I really just classify that as a problem? Shame on me.
  5. Have a quick question before I bottle my Diablo IPA. I thought I remember reading in my bottling kit that it said 1 teaspoon per bottle (16oz). My instructions from my original Mr. Beer kit say 2 1/2 teaspoons per liter. If a liter is 33.8oz, then it would be a little over 1.25 teaspoons per 16oz. Whats everyones experience been with sugar amounts per bottle? Also, does it matter the type of beer your brewing? Do some brews need more sugar than others in some instances?
  6. "Joechianti" post=345940 said:There is a low-tech, inexpensive entry-level alternative. I'm not trying to compare it to real kegging, but it works. I call it the easy-Bake version of kegging. You get a Tap-A-Draft head off ebay for $30, including shipping. You bottle a LBK batch in three 3 liter soda bottles and corbonate/condition just like you would all your small bottles. Then you chill one bottle at a time, remove the cap and screw on the Tap. The tap is designed for a 16 gram CO2 cartridge, but you can simply slip a dime and then 16 pennies(I think) down into the tube so you can use an 8 gram cartridge with a rubber band and a little strip of duct tape around it instead. Works like a charm. You might need 2 to 4 cartridges per bottle, but they can usually be gotten for about 50 cents each. Initial outlay in equipment is the $30 tap and a few cartridges and some recycled soda bottles. It doesn't get any faster cheaper or easier than that. Again, it's not exactly the professional route, but you're enjoying your home brew on tap and bottling day is a breeze. It could be a lot worse. McGyver much?
  7. "DeeJay24" post=347057 said:ok thanks guys for the advice, yeah that's what I figured about the ABV, I will be more patient with my next brew on deck: Mexican Cervesa can't wait. I'm going to brew that tonight I think
  8. Yea no worries. I did the same thing. I fermented the American Light for 2 weeks in the LBK and bottled for 7 days. It was a pretty tasty beer actually even though it didnt ferment/condition for that long. The alcohol content was just very low. But thats to be expected - by product of yeast consuming the sugars is alcohol I'd just go ahead and let it condition in the bottles for 3-4 weeks. You should be fine. Brewing is 95% patience. I dont think Mr. Beer would sell many kits if the time line for brewing was almost 2 months for a well rounded finished product. They basically just tell you the bare minimum for something that tastes like beer And like packerduf said - welcome to the party :cheers:
  9. Thx Wings. The math.. there a guide to OG/SG's per HME? :chug:
  10. Gotta question regarding my last hydrometer reading on my Diablo IPA. I didn't have it when it first went into the LBK so I dont have an OG. It went in on Feb 6th so its been over 3 weeks. I just took a reading this morning before I was going to cold crash, but the reading on my hydrometer says its only 1.010. Is this normal for Diablo IPA? Is my hydrometer not giving me a good reading? Or should I let it continue to sit in the LBK till I get a lower reading?
  11. One more thing... if patience is a problem? I suggest buying a few more LBK's (little brown kegs). I've found that brewing more beer while waiting keeps me occupied - plus gets a good rotation of beers going so you're never out of beer waiting on the next batch. :cheers:
  12. I noticed this too with my first batch of American Light. I took a sample at the 2 week time period (as stated in the instructions) and I too found that it kind of had a slight sweet cidery taste. I then bottled it for only 7 days. It came out tasting pretty good, but still had a slightly sweet taste. It was a pretty good tasting beer, but the ABV was probably very very low (took me 2 pint's to feel any type of buzz). My guess is that the yeast didnt have enough time to eat up all the sugar in the fermenter and bottle. And since the byproduct of yeast eating sugar is ethyl alcohol... After becoming a regular to these forums, I've come to find out the instructions are slightly off time frame wise. Keep up with these brewers here in forum and ask as many questions as you can. You'll learn a lot - as I have
  13. My first batch of American Light was a big hazy. Now, this could be due to a brewing error on my part - but I've been reading a few things here and there that says cold crashing your beer before bottling will help solidify the trub and cause any other proteins that might cause haze to settle, making a cleaner looking beer? I'm going to be bottling my Oktoberfest Lager after another hydrometer reading this weekend, but was wanting some opinions and advice on "cold crashing". Would my brew benefit in any other way from cold crashing before bottling? And how long? I've seen some suggest 2-3 days, and other suggest a week.
  14. Yea, I actually drank the sample brew. It tasted like flat beer. Had a pretty good flavor and with some carbonation, tastes like it will be a pretty good beer. I'll give it another 3 days though and take another reading. Thanks for the advice. :drinking:
  15. Brewing Oktoberfest Lager. I just got my hydrometer and took a reading. I didnt have when it initially went into the LBK, so I dont have an OG rating. My hydrometer said it was 1.010 SG. Though, I still see a a few bubbles at the top of my brew. Its been in the LBK for 3 weeks as suggested. Since I still see a few bubbles floating around at the top I suspect the yeast is still working? Should I hold off a few more days on bottling? Or will it make a difference if I bottle now? Also, I'm not sure about this - but the back of my hydrometer shows estimated ABV. It looks like its showing about 2.5% ABV. Will this change once I bottle and it sits a little longer? or will I not know the ABV because I didnt take an initial reading when the wort first went into my LBK?
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