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Everything posted by Monsteroyd

  1. "Joechianti" post=379119 said:Another nice addition is lactose. I like to soften my stouts a tiny bit with some sweetness. Interesting - does this give a more creamy flavor? Monty
  2. Yes I noticed the same thing. Thanks for your comments and I like those refills, by the way. Monty
  3. Here is another article about how to do it with a LBK. http://beerneggs.com/how-to-batch-prime-with-mr-beer/ Monty
  4. Well that says I only need 12.6 tsps total or about 1.57 tsp per Liter. I have been using the 2.5 tsp per Liter bottle, which would 20 tsp. The 2.5 tsp per Liter bottle has been working pretty well for me, so I am leery of dropping almost a tsp per Liter. Why are the number so different? Monty
  5. I am big trouble guys, those dang scratch and dent Gold kits are way too inexpensive. I just ordered another one to use as a secondary in order to batch prime for bottling. And got another set of bottles and 2 more HMEs too boot. Really a great way to expand capacity. Anyway, so how much sugar should I use to for a full batch. Mr Beer says 2.5 teaspoons per 1L, so 20 teaspoons for all 8 Liters. Or 0.416666 cups or 20 * 4.2g = 82g of sugar. Sound right? Thanks Monty
  6. I do both bottle at flame out after the sugar has been disolved. Pretty much similar to normal beers. Except the aj concentrate is not Hopped or Unhopped Malt Extract. No malt. All juice. Monty
  7. Oh, can I boil the pale LME pack with it? I would guess so, since it is unhopped, but is it enough? Thanks again for the advise. Monty
  8. Jim - Glad you found this after I moved it. What a maroon. :blush: Anyway, Ok so I get to do a little mash, and then I'll boil half the hops for 20 minutes (aroma) then add the other half with 7 minutes left for taste. And I will do this in the 'wort' I get from the mashing of the honey malt and carapils. So exciting. I love this forum, you guys are really nice to put up with me. Monty
  9. OK I have been doing a lot of reading about honey malt, and it evidently can be steeped or malted (DP of 50). If I am already going to put it in 155 degree water for 30 minutes anyway, would I just leave it there for 60 minutes total to mash it? Is that a partial mash? Also, Mr beer instructions for brews that are dry hopped say to toss the hops in at flame out after adding the HME etc. Is this OK, but not the best? Why is the general advice on dry hopping say to wait a week. I will probably wait a week, but I was curious about why Mr Beer said different. Sorry for so many questions, but boy, the more I learn, the more I know I don't know. :think: Monty By the way this is a 3 week ferment and a 4 week condition. And probably a couple of days to drink it all. Current recipe: 1 HME Czech Pilsner 1/4 # Carapils steeped 1/4 # Honey malt Mashed? - 60 min at 155 1 Pale LME 1 oz Saaz dry hoped
  10. DELETED EDIT: crap I posted this in the wrong thread. Sorry.
  11. Thanks Rick, so let's take it down a notch to just a 1/4 lb of honey malt. Monty
  12. Ok, I see what you (Jim) are saying, and you are right. This is more of an experiment, so I probably should leave the honey out to get an idea of what honey malt can do steeped in. One more mod: 1 HME Czech Pilsner 1/4 # Carapils steeped 1/4 # Honey malt steeped (as per RickBeer) 1 Pale LME 1 oz Saaz dry hoped ?? Monty Oh and I always add the honey at flame out, just to raise the temp a bit. I think honey is already sterile, at least the bee hive was, and this particular honey is raw and right from the hive about 2 weeks ago. But like I said, as a steeping grains experiment, I need to leave out the honey for this batch.
  13. I think 2 1.75 lbs cans of malt will work. It is just going to be malty and have a ton for the yeast to eat. I bet that recipe has a warning about LBK overflow, that's all. Monty
  14. I do CAL with a pale LME and a booster and normal (non-hop head) people really like it. Its real easy too. I think steeping some carapils would help the head though. It is a little cidery at 4 weeks conditioning, but by 6 weeks this really mellows out nicely and is always a hit. At least we like it I also do the same for the Patriot Lager. It's a little (not much) more of a beer than the CAL, but still a favorite for normal non-hoppy people, myself included. That recipe with the 2 cans is pushing it isn't it? I'd worry about a krausen mess. Monty
  15. OK Thanks GymRat! Revised recipe: 1 HME Czech Pilsner 1/4 # Carapils Steeped 1/2 # Honey Malt Steeped 1/2 # honey 1 Pale LME Monty
  16. :borg: OK I have a request for advice on my next batch that I probably will get to next week as I have a batch coming up due for bottling which will free up a LBK. And I want to try steeping some grains! :banana: This is all just made up, as it is what I have (or will have) and I am more interested in the steeping / dry hop part than the resulting beer. So here is what I am thinking: 1 can HME Czech Pilsner steep some carapils (for head etc) steep honey malt (for honey flavor) 1LB honey (or a booster pack) 1 Pale LME Then dry hop some Saaz. I think I put this in a week after fermentation starts? I read something some where that putting it in at the beginning of fermentation is not good? hops oils and yeast cells or something? I need to know how much of the honey malt and the carapils to steep, along with how much water. I think its 1.5 qt / lb? Thanks Monty
  17. Yes a refractometer would only need a couple of drops of wort, and then you let it cool for a minute to reach the temp of the refracto-thingy. But I really think, at least for me, it needs to be used in conjuction with the hydo, fir calibration and because after alcohol (fermentation), it need tweaking, so that's where the hydro comes in to save the day. I just want it for telling me when fermentation is done, which requires no conversion of brix to SG or anything. Just trying to shave a few days off the pipeline wait. Monty
  18. yep, just bought a backup hydrometer and 2 sample tubes, because I am clumsy. Monty
  19. Yes I normally (well until I broke my sample tube) do an OG into a sanitized sample tube w/sanitized hydrometer, and then put it back and pitch, then do it again at bottling time (after 3 weeks) to get a FG. I just wanted an easy way to take some readings in between pitching and bottling and I think I will use the refractometer for those. And of course, the day after I order mine, Homebrew finds has one for less: http://www.homebrewfinds.com/2013/06/great-deal-dual-scale-refractometer-21.html Monty
  20. "LouieMacGoo" post=377886 said:Just get one of these and you won't have to worry about taking samples anymore! http://www.thebeerbug.com/ Oh man you shouldn't post a link like that to a geek like me. I wants one!. Too cool. Except it looks like about $200 for each one. I think I will just use my hydrometer, and I did get an inexpensive refractometer from Amazon. It just does brixe, but the dual scale ones look suspicious to me. And I have beersmith, so it will do the conversion and calibration for me. Monty
  21. Oh yeah I forgot about that heat stick article. I need to check it out and go that route if at all. Monty
  22. I have thought about one, but they aren't really designed for beer, and require computation adjustments etc, right? A refractory is usually used to measure sucrose content, not maltose? Are they accurate enough at least to determine end of fermentation? or ABV? Thanks Monty
  23. Hi, I need the Borg again. Do they make a shorter hydrometer? One that is not as long as the normal one? For example, I would like a hydrometer I can just stick into the LBK (sanitized of course) and get a reading rather than having to pull a sample. Any hope for that or would that make it too small to read? Thanks Monty
  24. Well, I think that sounds great, because it is about the best way I have heard of to make a carbed sweet cider. Monty
  25. OK, OK, I said I wasn't doing it. This question came up during a discussion with a fellow worker, whose basic argument was that a gas stove is just a burner in the house with no flue (whether natural gas or propane) and that the danger from using a turkey fryer in the house was more about the boiling oil than the burner. So I thought I would ask the Borg for their collective wisdom. JohnW's story was the most convincing by the way. I also suspect that the burner on the turkey fryer is not up to specs to be used inside either (as JohnW's story proves) Thanks for all the cautionary responses. I am NOT using it indoors, heck I'm not even at the point of doing unhopped extracts yet. Monty
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