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Everything posted by sambeerindia

  1. Derek, I made a Mocha Brown Ale and I used crushed coffee beans and cold steeped them in water for 24 hours. Then I dumped that water into my wort with 5 mins remaining on the boil. I used .7 oz of beans and about 4 oz water for a 2 gallon brew size. The coffee flavour was real nice in the final brew! Hope this helps. /Sameer
  2. Hi folks, for various reasons, Wheat DME is too hard for me to source. I was curious if I can use a DME-plus-wheat-malt combination to make a decent PM Hefeweizen? BORG advice requested. /Sameer
  3. The high temp usually does affect the beer but the more weeks you leave it for conditioning, the less the impact. Well, up to a point. 4 of my 10 batches I've worried that they were ruined, 3 were fine in the end. The 4th is bottled 1 week ago. RDWHAHB. /Sam
  4. I just downed the last of this and finally feel smug after 11 months of brewing 10 batches. Thanks to the BORG for the support and guidance.
  5. Hi Screwy, thanks for the reply. I did brew the older recipe and by 20 days in the bottle, at new year's, it was a very mediocre beer. But 10 more days in the fridge after that and I had a very respectable Paulaner clone! Needless to say, i was thrilled??:-) i always thought that the wheat beer takes only 10 days to condition fully you explain why it is so much nicer after a month in the bottle? Thanks, Sam
  6. Hi folks, earlier this year I got good advice from the BORG to brew my own Irish Red. Ingredients were hard to get as brewing ingredients are only available in bulk sizes in India, from specialised importers. I would need to buy hops in increments of 5 kilos! Anyway, I picked up my nobel hops and EK Goldings on trips to Europe along with a bit of specialty grains. Here's my Iris Red - early tasting - only 2.5 weeks in the bottle. Head was a bit weak but then it doesn't need to be huge on an Irish Red anyway. I'm pretty satisfied with the appearance. Now for the conditioning - how long does it need in the bottle to start tasting good? It was slightly medicine-y this weekend, not quite like the Irish Red I would expect. I brewed at 62-63F and went for about 20 IBU's with 4.8% ABV. It is now conditioning at 65F. /Sam
  7. Thanks Joe, Snowjob, I think I will try the ziploc bag with rubber band approach today. Regards, Sameer
  8. Hi, since I got a mini-fridge, I've had to stop using my LBK and use glass fermenters so they fit in the fridge. However, there is barely 1 inch of space on top so I can't put an airlock. I have been using sanitised aluminum foil to cover the fermenter. My last 2 batches have been sour when bottling and even after conditioning for 4 weeks. My suspicion is around this as a possible source of how I end up getting the sour taste. Any precautions I can take or extra steps I can take to prevent/minimise? With the last batch I have placed, I am spraying starsan onto the foil once every day, more out of paranoia! Please help! /Sam
  9. Hi bobdude1, welcome to the addiction! This is a great forum and closing in on 10 beers, I still get awesome help and support from the BORG. /Sam
  10. Loads of material on how to get the desired bitterness in the beer you make. When it comes to the aroma and flavour, are there any guidelines around the amounts of hops to add? How do those amounts compare withthe bittering hop quantities? Or is this the art of brewing? /Sam
  11. Congrats! WelcomeTo the addiction.
  12. Thanks Bluejaye. TOday is the 7 th day for my fermentation and I have come to the same conclusion. I got a very thin layer of krauzenand no trub at all but then around day 5i saw the krauzen thicken ever so slightly. To my inexperienced mind, it was a sign that the yeast were doing their job. When I checked today, the krauzen is staying to dissipate gruadually, so I guess fermentation is winding down. So I'm pretty excited about this batch right now, which is a bit of a change from being a very concerned Noob 3-4 days ago! /Sam
  13. Semantics. Many people may not like the MR BEER Mexican Cerveza Refill but I am not one of them. The AMC may not be a clone of anything, but when I drop a lime into my Cerveza, the taste reminds me a lot of Corona Light, which I last drank 8 years ago /Sam
  14. The 3-4 is for 3 weeks in the LBK and 4 weeks in the bottle. Any time in the fridge (for cold crashing or after carbonation) is outside of the 3+4. You will notice the beer improving significantly with this timeframe. /Sam
  15. You will get beer regardless. Rehydrating yeast is like hitting the road running, that's all. /Sam
  16. Will get better with time. 3 Weeks fermentation, 4 weeks in bottle and your beer will be much better. Next batch try to keep temp in mid 60s so that after Iwade due to fermentation youwill still be below 72-73. Much cleaner and lighter net that way. /Sam
  17. Folks, I don't seem to be getting any trub whatsoever. seems to be a very tiny amount of yeast at the bottom, just about 1 mm. Could it be a very low amount of fermentable from a mash that was to hot? I did go significantly over temp firing mashing and this was only my second AG. /Sam
  18. 4 days back I brewed my AG hefeweizen. Put my yeast to rehydrate when my mash was going on. It then waited for the extended mash, the hop boil and cooling down. It was just over three hours from the time I rehydrated it. I could see a small white deposit layer at the bottom of the brake and did not know if the yeast flocculation had happened to some extent. After pitching, woke up the next morning to see krauzen. But in24 hours, a Brown ring was visible at the top of the fermenter and the krauzen was almost gone. I now see a thin white layer at the bottom of the fermenter, making me wonder if some of the yeast are already asleep or maybe never woke up? What should I do from here? /Sameer
  19. I wasn't set on getting a particular flavour out as I'm more focused on understanding the somewhat basic recipes than trying to create my own favourite flavours early in the day. This will be my 2nd AG batch and 6th batch overall. This would be my first time using a crystal malt, so yes, I'm quite a beginner, although I've got the hang of the basic sanitation and hopping techniques from the extract batches I made with MR BEER. Screwy's Paulaner recipe seemed like something I could benchmark against as I have had it a few times recently when travelling to Europe (can't buy Paulaner anywhere in India). The real limitation is the ingredients which I have as I can't hop across to an LHBS and pick up stuff here in India - there are no LHBS's. I either order my stuff and have it shipped, so it has to be a bulk order of hops and yeasts, to make the whole order seem financially feasible. I'm open to your suggestions. Would you suggest trying a basic hefeweizen recipe? I do have the WB-06 yeast and the T-58 for Belgian Wit as well. /Sam
  20. Hi folks, I'm hell bent on brewing Screwy Brewer's Noble Wheat recipe which models the Paulaner Hefeweizen, this weekend itself. This will only be my 3nd batch with non-MB stuff, so I'm quite unsure if I'm on the right path really. I have some ingredients which are a tad different from what Screwy uses here, and that's where I need the help with 3 things. First Screwy's recipe - Recipe: Size 5.00 gallons: Estimated IBU=9, SRU=7, OG=1.062, FG=1.016, ABV=6.0% 2 pounds honey 1 pound Crystal 10L 5 pounds Muntons Wheat DME - 55% Wheat/45% Barley 1/2 ounce Crystal pellet hops boiled for 60 minutes 2 pounds of Honey for 30 minutes 1/2 ounce Crystal pellet hops boiled for 20 minutes 1 ounce Crystal pellet hops boiled for 7 minutes 11.5 gram Safbrew WB-06 dry yeast Pitched at 70F and fermented at 70F until final gravity is steady for 2 days Now what I have/don't have. 1. I do not have Crystal, but have Hallertauer Traditional. Screwy mentions on his site that he couldn't get Hallertauer on brewday, hence went for Crystal. Does Hallertauer Traditional work as a good hop for Wheat? Is this the correct variety? I know Noble hops are what are used in German wheat beers. My Hallertauer is 6.5% instead of the 4% Crystal which Screwy used. Any adjustments required other than to correspondingly reduce the amount of hops at each hop addition stage? I can use BrewersFriend.com recipe tool for this, just need to know if a simple scale down will be OK. 2. I do not wish to use honey, at least at the 1st go. I am OK with slightly less ABV. Will I also get some different balance of hops/alcohol in my beer if I skip honey? Or is it still going to be acceptable? Or would you recommend adding some honey? I don't have Clover Honey, so would have to go with a local Indian honey brand. 3. I don't have Crystal 10L. I have Weyermann CaraAmber 60-80EBC and Weyermann Crystal 120-140 EBC which I can substitute. Which would you suggest I use and how much to adjust the amount? Really looking forward to brewing my first hefeweizen this weekend and thanks all for your help in advance. In case I miss any important details and you're a super helpful Guru, here's the link to Screwy's page :-) http://www.thescrewybrewer.com/2011/10/screwys-recipe-62-screwys-noble-wheat.html /Sam
  21. Hi, about 5 months of brewing and into my 5th batch, I tried yeast washing yesterday. Last evening, I bottled my amber ale and collected the slurry in the fermenter, let the trub settle and separated the yeast (and some of the earlier beer too). I then added a little bit of DME (sort of became a "starter") and about 1 hr later, when my new batch's wort cooled down, pitched the starter. At the time, I could see slight activity in the starter. Then it was time for bed. When I woke up 9 hrs later, I checked in on the fermenter. The top had half an inch of krausen already! Wow. When I had used the dry yeast in the previous batch, it took more than a day to see proper krausen formation. Maybe my washing and sanitation will leave room for improvement, but this only spurs me on to make washing a regular activity! With the way Indian currency is doing against the dollar, this will also restrain my homebrew costs from spiralling up! Sold! Thanks BORG for the awesome advice and nurturing to the NOOBs. This forum is awesome not only for the expert advice but also the clean and supportive environment with complete absence of flaming and other such nonsense. /Sam
  22. Thanks folks, So if I calculate the amount to use such that I will get the same amount of IBU's, then there is no real difference to characteristics affecting the beer's "taste" that the bittering hop provides? /Sam
  23. Hi folks, I'm planning a very simple cascade blonde with cascade at 60 mins and cascade at 30 mins. Does it matter if I use a higher AAU hop like magnum for the 60 min boil instead of the cascade? /Sameer
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