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About Rick3575

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  1. The picture didn't upload. Let me try again.
  2. Part of the fun of home brewing for me is creating labels. I use an old graphics program to print them on label paper. They come off easy enough with a little soaking in hot water. The best part is they look great in the fridge. Here's one for the Camilla's Folly recipe that's in the LBK right now. Rick
  3. I used 12 ounce glass bottles. I think it was a little over a half teaspoon per bottle. Screwy Brewer has the info. Rick
  4. Last year, a buddy of mine invited me over to brew his milk stout. He doesn't do Mr.Beer. So we spent 3 hours boiling grain and adding hops, trying to follow the vague directions, which ended with adding 2 pounds of lactose to the wort.(5 gallon batch). Well it turned out pretty good, so I decided to try using Mr. Beer to make my own milk stout. All I did for the first batch is brew up a can of St. Patricks Irish Stout, and once it was in the LBK, I added 1 pound of lactose. That's it. No hops or other additives. I think it's actually better than the other brew. It's been in the bottles for 5 weeks now, and it's smooooooth and has that little sweetness in the aftertaste that you get with a milk stout. Even my wife is raving about it. Yes, I'll be brewing that again. Rick
  5. One of my favorite Mr. Beer recipes is made with BAA. Columbus's Cascading Amber Ale. I recently purchased another. Try it. You'll be amazed. Rick
  6. Why are you buying bottles? I buy Sierra Nevada Pale Ale 12 packs for the bottles, and I really enjoy the free beer that comes in them. Just put them in the dishwasher before bottling your beer. Also sanitize as usual. Rick
  7. I did a batch of ESB. After only 10 days in the bottle, I cracked one open. Very strong and bitter, and a bit green, but oh so good (if you like bitter beers). I feel like it'll really smooth out given the proper time conditioning. Rick
  8. I think you're right on with your plan. One ounce is not too much. I've done several beers that called for a dry hop with 1/2 ounce at one week after starting fermentation followed by another 1/2 ounce a week after that. So one ounce at 2 weeks will be fine. I do suggest using a hop sack though. I tried going commando once , but when I bottled the beer, the chunks of hop pellets floating in the beer kept clogging the spigot and I didn't like that debris in my bottle. Good luck and let us know how it turns out. Rick
  9. A while back a friend made a milk stout with a 5 gallon stout kit from the local brew supply. He simply modified it by adding lactose to the wort. It turned out slightly sweet and very creamy. Delicious. I was thinking of trying something like that with Mr.Beer's Shillelagh Stout recipe. I've done this one before and it was very good. Do you think this would make a good milk stout with the addition of a pound of lactose? Also, when do you add it? If I remember (it's been a while) it was added last, just before the wort was put in the fermenter. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Rick
  10. Just tried one of my CAL plus pale LME plus 4 hops. I'm extemely happy with it. I expected it to be hoppier, but it's got a nice bitterness with the aroma. I thought it would be like an IPA, but it could be called a pale ale. It's been in the bottle for 8 days, so it will only get better. It came out very light colored (compared to other MrBeers) and very carbonated. If you're interested, here's the recipe. Rick Quad Hopper Pale Ale 1- Classic American Light Standard Mr.Beer yeast 1- Pale LME Softpack 1- 1/2 oz packet Saaz pellet hops (20 min boil ) 1- 1/2 packet Glacier pellet hops (20 min boil ) 1- 1/2 oz packet Cascade pellet hops (Dry Hop after 2 weeks) 1- 1/2 oz packet Citra pellet hops (Dry Hop after 1 week) Start by boiling a quart of water. Add the Pale LME and the Saaz & Glacier hops in a hopsack, to the boil for 20 minutes. Then remove the hopsack, turn off the heat, and stir the CAL HME. Add the wort to the fermentor with cold water already in it, and pitch your yeast after the appropriate temperature is reached (66-68°F). After a week of fermentation, dry hop with 1/2 oz Cascade hop pellets. The following week, dry hop again with 1/2 oz Citra hop pellets. Bottle after 21 days.
  11. I just started a batch of CAL because it was cheap. I added Pale LME and used hops in the wort, and I'm also going to do 2 dry hops. I'll let you know in a few weeks how it turns out. Hops makes every one of these extracts better, IMO.
  12. I have a question about conditioning lagers. I ferment at 55 degrees in a thermostatically controlled cooler, but no where in the instructions do I remember seeing what temp to condition. What's best for a lager? Room temp or keep it in the cooler?
  13. Since I made that label, I've gotten to where I include more information, like which batch number it is and the "born on" (bottling) date. Also things like modifications to the recipe (different hops, honey added, etc.) can be helpful. I keep a log of all this info, but it's nice to pick up a bottle and find it all right there.
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