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Everything posted by Nickfixit

  1. Ashley says they have tested the recipes to validate their published process. They do ongoing quality control of the product - fermenting it in the office in Tucson.
  2. I think the new brewers are on Facebook, based on the posts there are a lot which is good for Mr. B. 😄 Does that mean we are old brewers here? Well I know I am lol.
  3. Don't go by how long you have stored the yeast (assuming that was what you meant by "a year old"), use the packet date code. You can check the Mr Beer yeast by the packaging date code on the packet day and year, formatted DDDYY. My last Churchill NB Ale end of life can had a 2016 dated yeast. I did substitute a different yeast (London ESB). I did throw the can yeast in the boil. However, you have to figure that Mr Beer would package yeast that would still be viable enough by the HME best-by date. You also have to consider though if it has a viable low number of yeast cells, then it will be in growth phase longer and will make much more flavoring which may not be what you want. As mentioned above, if you do use the can yeast and get no action in a day or 2 you can put a newer yeast in as well.
  4. I am going to try the Citra American Noble I got in a Mr B American Ale I think or maybe a Pilsner?
  5. Here is another product that could save you time in brewing - but mostly I expect if you used extract though. You still have to boil the grain some, even with this I think. It comes with effective boil times of 5, 10, 15, 30, and 60-minute profiles. https://www.steamhops.com/new-products/sampler
  6. What I read from it was that they suggest you can mix the cryo hops with the American Noble in varying proportions to customize the brew. So it is like they have divided the hop cones into 2 parts with differing characters for additional brewing flexibility. That is too complicated for me though.
  7. http://resources.countrymaltgroup.com/InfoSheets/AmericanNobleHops.pdf data sheet
  8. Side by side test Am Noble and T-90 http://brulosophy.com/2018/10/08/standard-t90-pellets-vs-american-noble-hops-exbeeriment-results/ Varieties available https://shop.yakimachief.com/hops/american-noble-hops.html breakdown of pellet contents https://www.williamsbrewing.com/2-Oz-American-Noble-Hops-Citra-Hop-Pellets-P4801.aspx for comparison, regular T-90 Acid Composition Breakdown Alpha Acid: 11 – 14% Beta Acid: 3.0 – 4.5% Co-Humulone: 20 – 24% Oil Composition Breakdown Total Oils: 2.2 – 2.8 mL (per 100 grams) Myrcene Oil: 60 – 65% (of total) Humulene Oil: 7 – 13% (of total) B-Pinene Oil: 0.7 – 1.0% (of total) Caryophyllene Oil: 6 – 8% (of total) Farnesene Oil: <1% (of total) Linalool Oil: 0.6 – 0.9 % (of total) Geraniol Oil: 0.3 – 0.5 % (of total
  9. YCH is marketing what they call American Noble hops. These are low AA (1-3) pellets made from the leftover bits after making their cryo product. THey are intended to impart the American flavors into beers that you would otherwise use Noble hops for. So it is not a hop blast like for IPAs. It is a more subtle nuanced result. Has anyone used these? I got a 2 oz pkt intending to make a Space Dust clone, but I don't think they are up to it. I need T-90 pellets.
  10. This finger in bottle is even endorsed by Mr Beer's Ashley.
  11. Community Members 288 236 posts Report post Posted Saturday at 01:13 PM "A while back I brewed a little 1-gallon all-grain Kit. It was weak and impotent (which really taxed my ego). It consisted of 1-1/2 lb of 2-row and 1/2 ounce of Kent Goldings hops." Don't feel bad, this was a pretty light brew anyway. a quick scan on recipe builder puts it a little over 4% ABV even with the right amount of water. So it will taste pretty thin. Your new amounts look like just under 6% so a big difference. Do you remember what ABV did the kit claim?
  12. Drink beer, rinse out well, using small finger to remove the ring of bits stick inside the neck. At bottling, clean deposits inside with soft, bottlebrush, sanitize with Mr B sanitizer. Make sure to invert bottles to get caps and threads wet (and caps of 12 oz bottles)
  13. I use a Gephhhfftermeter. I listen to the sound when I open the cap. Is is pft? pffft? PFFT? or Pffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffff………………….. time to clean up? British beer is pft. German Wiezen is PFFT.
  14. In your link it says sucrose breaks down (when by yeast via enzyme invertase) to 50% Glucose, 50% Fructose so that leads to Carbo drops --> 27% Glucose & 73% Sucrose--> 63% Glucose, 37% Fructose Sugar dots --> 100% Sucrose --> 50% Glucose , 50% Fructose (via enzyme invertase) So other than the yeast having to break down more sucrose (and they need to do it for both) I don't think it is grossly different - unless there are conditions that prevent that. Conveniently, sugar dots are 0.5 tsp, I use --> 1 per 12 oz, 2 per .75 mL, 3 per 1L. (Sometimes less for dark ales)
  15. Hope it comes out well - taste comparison will be interesting.
  16. That does make it tough to do at home unless you have good equipment with temperature control or just luck.
  17. I am thinking that your deformed caps are either a bad batch or you are seriously over-carbonating to deform them. Either way replacing the caps looks like a fix. Did you have any really highly carbonated brews?
  18. I would just take the rings off and see if that fixes it, if not, try to isolate the bottles so you can tell which ones do it then replace them as you suggest. You could also try just using new caps (minus the ring).
  19. On a different note - did you notice that Mr B now includes TWO LMEs with the Deluxe refills?!!!!!!!!!!
  20. Yay - "Pinetop the Elevated Beer. …...You have to be high to get it" No - wait a minute - that does not sound right. lol.
  21. Next is he Pennsylvania Lager Mr B recipe after I bottle the Belgian Ale.
  22. Got partial mash grains for Mr B Pennsylvania lager but first I have a Belgian Ale to make, to use up saved Forbidden Fruit yeast.
  23. Last time I did this is worked out OK, but I did not read those instructions. As a result I added REAL CLEAN trub plus yeast to the new brew. THe new brew actuallybenefitted from some flavors left from the old.
  24. Or you could get 1 or 2 of the 1 gall all grain BIAB kits. or if you have a local home brew store I am sure they would love to help you - even the online ones if you give them a call. I would expect most of the MR Beer ones would be good - but as he says - no harm in asking.
  25. What I think I got from the Mr Beer staff on the Facebook page is that the Mr Beer yeast was formulated specifically for quick fermentation and that they had tested recipes using the 14 day formula before they rewrote the instructions. However they also said - if you have a different process that works - it is probably good to keep using it. But their "standard" instructions are 2 weeks. Temperature will also have an impact. I think Mr Beer forum brewers tend to brew in the 60's, and that might take longer than if you follow the Mr Beer instructions which say to brew a bit warmer but it will depend on the yeast. Not all say 14 days though e.g. Hidden Lake Amber Ale "Put your fermenter in a location with a consistent temperature between 68° and 78° F (20°-25° C), and out of direct sunlight. Ferment for 21 days." Unclear if they will change this. They do seem to be having a lot of good sales recently so maybe that is an attempt tp move more product. I know I took advantage of it - but how much can you buy - lol.
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