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Nickfixit

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Everything posted by Nickfixit

  1. I don't think it will be problem. The yeast should wake up again and continue. You can always momentarily invert the bottle to get it up to suspension again if you are concerned. Don't shake though...……….dagnabbit - what do you think this is - champagne? lol. Wait until you win in Nascar.
  2. This is my opinion, Rick Beer may differ and provide better suggestions LOL. Just to emphasize - conditioning is out of the refrigerator. Carbonation is good at 65-70. The temperature for conditioning depends on the beer style ales - 60-75 is OK. I have mine in mid 60-s. Lagers colder. so maybe you could condition lagers in the fridge but it has to be a temp at which the yeast can be somewhat active. Then, putting it in the fridge for >= 3 days to allow carbonation to absorb. More carbonation is absorbed in the liquid at cooler temperatures - so that will affect head retention and initial carbonation gush.
  3. We fermented and distilled at high school as part of chemistry courses. Of course we surreptitiously saved the distillation product and took it home. It tasted OK mixed with orange juice. Of course this was only a small volume, probably less than 0.5 oz. Understood there could be alt byproducts in there, but at that time we did not know but we carefully distilled, monitoring temp for alcohol boiling point.
  4. The only thing is that if the initial cell count was low you might get additional flavors from yeast growth phase compared with having a higher cell count. But it probably is to late to impact that. I agree, and would do the SG check as noted above with pitch as needed. From dry yeast, my experience with US-05 is that is gives a pretty good start within 24 hours or even less so if the liquid one is the same this is a pretty long time for it to get going, but I have not used that exact one. If this was purepitch, then this gives some indications on viability with time. If not, it refers you to Mr Malty for viability calculations with age. So you could backtrack and see if there could have theoretically been an issue then compare with recipe builder pitch rate calc. *********************optimistic*********************************** https://www.beeradvocate.com/community/threads/white-labs-purepitch-yeast-some-numbers.573302/ This says Purepitch has a package date and a "best before" date on the pack and that at the "best before" date : The “Best Before” date comes from hundreds of internal trials, ultimately showing that after five months in PurePitch® packaging the average viability of first generation yeast remains at more than 79%. **********************pessimistic******************************* But Mr Malty is less optimistic - presumably not allowing for the improvements in packaging. Feeding the date into this gives viability of 0. Hmm. https://www.morebeer.com/content/yeast_viability_calculator Also this might be of interest https://eurekabrewing.wordpress.com/2012/11/18/yeast-basics-check-yeast-viability/ (you lose 50% in 60 days in fridge) https://www.whitelabs.com/faq/general/how-much-yeast-my-white-labs-homebrew-purepitch
  5. Now that is dedication - good for you 😎 Hope everything else resolves soon.
  6. The one that was opened, was reclosed after I put 1/2 a shot of vodka in it on to of the malt to kill any beasties, and it is mold free. I have had good success doing that - using a container over several brews. And I do have extra Mr. B yeasts that are probably more recent than the Dark Ale Cooper's yeast so maybe I will do that. I am not sure it is the same yeast blend though - Australians have different tastes 🤣
  7. The last old hops I used turned out OK so I am a bit cavalier with that. But I hate to throw stuff out. (I was born in times of scarcity.) Still you are right, absolutely fresh ingredients would be better - and if I was doing all grain - no other choice.
  8. No I am not referring to myself, although knocking off a few years would not hurt 😁 however, this is probably one factor in the ruminations below. I think though that seeing the way I figured this rather than me just announcing the result might let you see if I was being illogical or trigger better ideas - I am always willing to learn. Looking through my basement (typically temp at mid 60's and these stored on the cement floor) for pre - 2018 brewing supplies to use up, I find I have a 2x Baltic Porter Seasonal (best by date Oct 2017) I know this is still good as I made one a couple months ago. 1x Cooper's Dark Ale 6 gal (best by date Mar 2017) Last one of these I made was 2017 - but I think it will still be OK Unopened Special Dark LME (mfr. date 12/21/2016) Weighs 3lb 8 oz for approx. 3lb 5 oz LME. Partly used Porter LME (mfr. date 5/28/2015) Weighs 2 lb 10 oz Partly used Vienna LME (mfr. date 2/20/2015) I never liked what the Vienna LME did to my brews so I think I will junk that. I am inclined to use the old LMEs or some of them with the Dark Ale since the Dark Ale HME itself only makes ~ 2% ABV, and needs other fermentables to make a good beer. I think the porter can make decent wort straight up, but I have only seen the special dark used up to about 50% of malt bill. I have used special dark in amounts up to 8 oz per 2 gal to enhance HMEs before but have not used more than that. So this is how it figures: LME container weighs ~ 3 oz. so I have ~ 2 lb. 7 oz. Porter LME, & split 3 ways = 13 oz. LBK --> adds approx. 1.4% ABV. That leaves me another 1.1 ABV to find. I can add 1 booster per LBK or I can add 10 oz of Sp Dark per LBK or I can add other fermentables. or I can add ALL the Sp Dark - adding 1.9% per LBK making it go to ~ 2 + 1.4 + 1.9 = 5.3 % So what are the votes here? toss it all in? Assuming "yes"...……... I will need more than the Cooper's yeast for this - especially since it has a date code 06115 (week 61 year 15) For info on Cooper's yeast markings https://community.diybeer.com/topic/8573-diy-beer-brew-cans-yeast-and-aroma-hop-details/ Seems like that yeast is a candidate for adding as nutrient - or I add more. Recipe builder suggests that this beer needs 56B cells per 2 gal so 1/2 a pack (110B cells/pack) of S-04 would just do, but that 5g of Cooper's ale yeast is not sufficient. So I could use this as a yeast experiment, since all except the #3 yeast are already sunk costs, it is cheap entertainment and I might actually get something I can drink out of it: I can use #1 - 2x Mr Beer yeast (on hand - or 1x Mr B and the Coopers yeast from the Dark Ale) #2 - 1x S-04 yeast (on hand) #3 - Some other interesting yeast from this list https://www.beercraftr.com/beer-yeast-list/stout-and-porter-yeast-list/ Comments and ideas welcome. Will it be TOO dark? What interesting yeasts in that list (#3) have you tried with dark beers?
  9. Plan change - first use up American Ale that is oldest. (other than 2 Baltic Porters and a Coopers 6Gal Dark Ale. all dated 2017 (!) but they are dark anyway. The Baltic Porter probably next after.) Fruity American Ale 2 - American Ale HME with booster and 8 oz wheat DME, 1 oz mix HBC438 (SABRO) and Brambling Cross. 1/3 15 min boil, 1/3 flameout, 1/3 7 day DH. Mr B yeast, 5g is OK for OG 1.050 Aroma notes - a real rural fruit salad. Sabro: coconut, grapefruit, lemon grass, and wood. Bramling Cross: lemon, black currant, and hay aromas
  10. Basic Oktoberfest will be more malty than hoppy - but if using basic with booster not LME, you get less malty. Look at some of the recipe suggestions on Mr B page for those that use that HME and have more malt/hops in if you have more of the Oktoberfest to use up , otherwise make something else - there is a lot to choose from. The Bindlestick wheat I am drinking now is quite craft-beer like in nature. For more ABV bite, add malt/booster pack depending what your taste is.
  11. I will go as far as a week or 5 out only. I have 2 HMS from 2018 date still. Porter maybe with anise (Maybe with Blackbeerd grains too) American Ale - fruity with booster I have to use up (I get 2 per HME) and misc left over hops. Last one was good. then Irish Red Ale (based on CAL, as I find Oktoberfest is too heavy maybe Oktoberfest needs more hop to balance?)
  12. Now it works PHEW! Yeah, I am not totally liking their new web site either, but change is always tough once you are used to something. I have to rate them by number of clicks/scrolls to find what I want. If more than 3 it is a problem. But also (I guess because I am aged, I do not like scrolling, after all, a page is a page. Pages were a technical evolution thrusting us from the scroll era to the tablet ere. many 100's of years ago. I also have a beef with multi column pages which are OK on paper but a real pain to read on electronic devices, in that you cannot see a whole page at once. Still who else cares - if you cannot say it in 280 characters is it worth saying?
  13. I have not tried that recipe specifically but usually I make the Porter HME with 1 Robust and 1 Smooth LME. I like that combo. Sometimes I add maltodextrin, sometimes I steep oats and one time I had some choc malt so I steeped that too. All come out nice. Bah now when I try to access the Mr B recipes I get...……... There has been an error processing your request Exception printing is disabled by default for security reasons.
  14. Yeah I was not pleased with mine so far. I preferred the Chromos beer recipe.
  15. I bought some Starsan but have not opened it yet as I am procrastinating on getting a suitable container for storing diluted stuff and also a good way to measure it out for small quantities. THe bottle measurer seems to cater to industrial use. They need a SMALL bottle for home users with dispenser for 1 gal increments of solution.
  16. I am not a whole grain brewer but I would think it would affect hop utilization. From the charts of that, the more concentrated the wort the less you get out of them. http://howtobrew.com/book/section-1/hops/hop-bittering-calculations If you wanted to do it your way you could recalculate but you would need more hops. Ending up exactly right offers the optimum economic solution. But as long as you use the actual gravity of your boil to calculate hopping you should be OK. Note that the author of this linked article uses a 3 gal pot and boil gravity of 1.080, and adds water at the end to get his 5 gal fermentation wort at maybe somewhere around 1.050. 😮 He also fudges it a bit to account (or not) for boil off.
  17. I just give it 21. My pipeline is long enough that I will not go thirsty. So it makes life easy. Besides, Mon/Tues my wife works in a.m. so those are brewing days. 21 days cycles me to same day in the week.
  18. Re Pilsener. I prefer the Cooper's Pils I made with additions to the Mr B Pils. They do not seem to be the same as the recipes are different I found the Saaz hop additions I did made it more "European" in taste which I like. Maybe the Mr B HME could also be enhanced for improved aroma and taste. Coopers can makes 2.5% ABV in 6 gal so needs additions. They use Malt Extract and Brew Enhancer. Mr B makes ~ 3.5% ABV in 2 gal. Similarly add Malt Extract and/or Booster to get in 4-5 % ABV range Cooper's I split between 3 LBKs. My preferred recipe (out of 3 variations I tried) is this per LBK: 1/3 Cooper's Pilsener HME + 8 oz pils malt + 6 oz booster + 8 oz pils malt + 2 oz Cara 20 Partial Mash, 0.5 oz Saaz boil 15 min and remove , 0.5 oz Saaz flameout aroma hop leave in. 0.5 Saaz Dry Hop 7 days Ferment below 68 deg with 1/3 supplied yeast + 1/3 37/40(a pack of each yeast split across 3 LBKs) You have to figure what is best way to get this in your fermenters. I do it per LBK except for the HME. I only used a medium pan so did not make TOTAL concentrated wort for 6 gal in one container - you can if you want to. I made the amount for each LBK separately with different ingredients to see what I liked best. I made the HME solution in one container and split it 3 ways, then did the PM and other stuff for each LBK separately. If you have a big container you could maybe do it all in there at once then divide it. I have got similar results by infusing Saaz for 30 min in boiled water for 30 min (hop tea) as adding the hop at flameout. So this might be easier. Ferment below 60 deg.F (I use cooler and freezer packs)
  19. Don't worry, Mr Beer is up to it.....😁
  20. What Rick said. 😁 Original description of adding priming sugar and relating that to discussion of Booster seems confusing. If unsure on measuring sugar and using booster : Add booster dissolved in mix with HME before putting it LBK and fermenting it. Don't bottle for 3 weeks Sugar for priming in bottle is easy if using PET, use sugar dots, (198 to the lb) put 3 in a 1L, 2 in a 0.75 L, and put 1 in a 12 oz glass bottle. If you want really high carb, put 4 in a 1L, 3 in a 0.75 L and 1.5 in a 12 oz. (I cut them with a chef knife).
  21. I thought this a good article on German Wheat Beer. http://braumagazin.de/article/brewing-bavarian-weissbier-all-you-ever-wanted-to-know/
  22. Same here - I say smell this fruit or whatever. She says - "yes, smells like beer" and passes it back.
  23. According to Internet, 1 tsp sugar = 0.15 oz. So 24 tsp = 3.6 oz. = 0.225 lb According to the Brewer's Friend calculator, 0.225 lb of cane sugar in 2 gal brew gives 0.68 % ABV Edit Ha... Shrike beat me to it.
  24. I guess that means your legs are not so shapely?
  25. I have left mine on the bottle but always remove before using a replacement cap. I have reused caps many times. They lose elasticity in the seal after a bit but I will change them if I seem to be getting leak in the carbonation phase (if the bottle is low compared to rest of batch after a week or so). I replace the cap and throw an additional sugar dot in. But generally I think more than 6 times. I can tell by the build up of the labels on the cap. Probably should sterilize the cap too but I am lazy and lucky - no distinctly different bottles in the batch. Note if you drink soda or know anyone that does, the screw caps also fit the Mr Beer PET bottles. Save them, so you can reuse those too (and no annoying rings - 😁).
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