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Nickfixit

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Everything posted by Nickfixit

  1. I guess that means your legs are not so shapely?
  2. I have left mine on the bottle but always remove before using a replacement cap. I have reused caps many times. They lose elasticity in the seal after a bit but I will change them if I seem to be getting leak in the carbonation phase (if the bottle is low compared to rest of batch after a week or so). I replace the cap and throw an additional sugar dot in. But generally I think more than 6 times. I can tell by the build up of the labels on the cap. Probably should sterilize the cap too but I am lazy and lucky - no distinctly different bottles in the batch. Note if you drink soda or know anyone that does, the screw caps also fit the Mr Beer PET bottles. Save them, so you can reuse those too (and no annoying rings - 😁).
  3. This looks like fun blog for students of brewing. This entry from the log of a student at Niagara College (in Ontario, Canada) Brewmaster & Brewery Operations Management 2 year brewing course is on carbonation and shows some calculation on getting what carbonation you want. https://studentofbeer.wordpress.com/tag/carbonation/ Other pages in this are interesting too. I also found and annotated the chart below showing temperature effect is ~ 1.7:2.7g at atmospheric pressure. But the pressure is higher since the CO2 is retained so more will be dissolved. From room temp, the CO2 pressure will also go down as RB says, which will lessen solubility to some extent but since this is related to absolute temperature (deg K), it is not a huge factor (276:294 in this temp range.) For those really into the math of CO2 solubility....https://www.researchgate.net/publication/277688911_Carbon_Dioxide_Solubility_in_Beer/download https://tapintohach.com/2013/01/28/co2-solubility-in-beer-does-quantifying-it-precisely-matter/
  4. For me the 750 in glass would be too big. I generally only drink one glass (1x 12 oz bottle) at a sitting so it would likely go flat on me without a good stopper. That is another reason I like the PET with screw tops. I will agree I get the most reliable seal from glass bottles w/crimp on caps, but mostly the PET are OK for me. Also use a bench capper - I think more reliable than hand ones. I am sitting at 223 😮 LBKs bottled and 2 fermenting.
  5. Next time, you can always steep/boil some hops in a bag (or French press them) and just add the liquor until it reaches the desired degree of pucker. If stirring clouds it all up then you will have to go through settling/clearing process again.
  6. I can only think of differential cooling of cap and bottle leaving a slow leak. Why those particular bottle ? No idea. Why did the Caps still seem tight? No idea. I have not had that and I reuse PET bottles a lot.
  7. I am lucky to have a basement room that sits at low 60's but if I want to ferment cooler I also use a Coleman cooler chest and ice packs with a digital reptile thermometer fished through the drain hole and taped to the LBK. I find that not a lot of bother - and have to refresh the packs only a couple times a day to keep it in the 50's. A thermostatically controlled space would be better controlled but I am lazy and cheap. 😄
  8. No real mugs (with a handle) except a souvenir German one with a lid that I don't use.
  9. Nickfixit

    Hop Storage

    So when hops are old they can still be used for bittering? but less for aroma and flavor? How does the aroma/flavor change with aging? I keep my part used pkts with scotch tape seal in a plastic storage container, in a drawer in a basement room that is in low 60's F usually. If they still smell good I use them. I often do chuck them if < 1 yr old. I rarely use them for bittering, relying on Mr B HME and maybe a smidgen of extra hop boil sometimes.
  10. This is assuming ideal carbonation. I am not always that good/consistent in result, so my pouring style starts on the side of the glass and migrates to center depending upon foam accumulation. Also maybe some differences pouring from the PET rather than 12 oz. glass, in1st or 2nd glass from them. The carbonation will be different in each pour.
  11. Very fortunate, with my beers the bottle would have erupted all over the place if I did that
  12. I am not sure it would fit in my dishwasher.
  13. I divvy up the wort between LBKs with a sanitized ladle out of the saucepan. 4 scoops at a time until I get close to the end. As said, many ways to skin the cat.
  14. You can also make "hop tea". Steep the pellets in hot (boiled) water for 30 min or so the decant off the liquid. The hops should have settled to the bottom. Some people use a coffee press with success. ICooper's (Mr Beer's AU parent) includes steeping method in some recipes. https://us.diybeer.com/czech-pils-20-litres My experience is that I get the same effect with a 30 min boiled water steep as putting them in a hop bag at flameout when using Saaz in a Pilsener. Also despite the claim that you need to boil hops in wort to get bitterness and hop flavor, I have boiled them in plain water and it seemed to work. (Maybe my palate is not good enough to tell the difference :-)). (Not that the charts of IBU extracted per minute of boil vs wort concentration goes down as concentration increases and up as it decreases, but they do not show plain water at the low concentration end. Tinseth stops at 1.020 not 1.000 lol. This post has one commenter give a method claimed to work for a separate hop boil. https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/4576/performing-a-hop-boil-seperate-from-the-wort-boil and https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/1154/partial-vs-full-volume-wort-boil The last post has poster that says not to boil extract wort - but boil hops in water then add. Some people are having success with it is seems. So you can try and see. So if doing a PM + Mr B HME - I would do the PM, boil hops in the liquor to sterilize or add bitterness, flavor etc. as needed, turn off heat then add Malt extracts. Dry malts and booster clump badly in hot liquid so I might start those cold but this is the general idea I use.
  15. Another split you can do is to get a Cooper's 6 gal HME kit and split to 3 LBKLs. I have done that for several and it works well. With the splitting, you can also modify the base to make different beers in each split if you want by adding different malt or hop treatments. Of what Cooper's HMEs I made, I like the Dark Ale and the Pilsner best. There is good info on AU forums too on those. The Pilsner benefits from additional Saaz to my taste. The Dark Ale is like UK Mild unless you beef it up some. All the Coopers you need to add some fermentable besides the HME which will only give you 2.5% ABV. Their recipes do that though.
  16. rPipeline.……………..must buy more stuff...……………(pant, pant). No seriously, I have a lot and have at least 9 months of beer maturing. Today I had Horse's Ass beer from 6/2018. It was very nice and better than at 1, 2, or 3 months. But it really does work and it takes some time to get it going. Wait for the sales. Keep checking Mr B, Amazon and ebay for discount and stock up..
  17. I would steep the grains, make the liquid up to 4 cups with tap water and bring to boil. If I wanted more bitterness I would add hops in bag and boil them now. Even a short boil - 15 min will add some bitterness. Try using the recipe builder online and see. You even get some by steeping the hops in hot water for 30 min. then just adding the liquid. I have done that with some beers. If you want a more fresh hoppy aroma, put the honey in and half oz. of the hops in a bag and bring to boil. Give it a minute or 2, then turn heat off and add HME. A week before bottling boil another hop bag for a couple min., put the other half oz. of the hops in and put it in the LBK. It will be beautifully Cascady then. I sterilize tongs and move the hop bag (s) out of the pan into the LBK first to avoid a big PLOP as it pours in. I do the same when bottling - remove the hop bags with sterilized tongs before bottling. I squeeze the bags carefully, holding the bag top with other hand, with the tongs to get beer out. You still do lose some beer in the hop bags though so if you want the full complement of bottles fill the LBK maybe 1/4 " higher to compensate.
  18. You could try "Cry Havoc" it is an ale yeast that works fine at lager and ale temps and works for either style at the right temp. It has an interesting history too. It is a lower attenuating yeast too, like S-04. https://www.homebrewsupply.com/white-labs-cry-havok-wlp862-yeast.html
  19. 1. put a sugar cube in, 2. retighten cap over plastic wrap on bottle or find soda bottle caps to use instead, 3. order more caps from Mr B. Happens to me sometimes. I have spare caps on hand now (I don't drink soda so no bottle caps handy), so I drop a cube (or 2) in and put a new cap on.
  20. Additional punishment by having to ferment additional beer is also awarded since you will be forced to make up the loss...…...
  21. No its different. This is my take on it. Starsan is a heavy duty bug killer that will be effective in very short time. < 1 minute after contact. Mr Beer product is oxygen based cleaner rather like Oxiclean but no rinse potable (I would rinse Oxyclean lol). It also takes up to 10 min to ensure cleaning. It will kill most bugs but not as effectively as Starsan. On the other hand it is user friendly, reasonably safe to handle and convenient and cleans/sanitizes well enough in most cases. If you have brewing equipment other than LBK, that would be tough to immerse in Mr B product for 10 min. A spray of Starsan solution or rinse does the job effectively.
  22. I bottle over the kitchen sink with bottle directly over the spigot and bottle slanted to minimize bubbling. The wand has not worked for me because I would have to bottle over the floor or a drip catcher. Another thing to clean. If I fill a little high I pour a little into my tasting glass to adjust it 😁.
  23. Glad the cornstarch addition worked!
  24. I use that software if I am doing any thing unusual or I want to check what FG to expect. I think it has Mr B HMEs somewhere, but I did not find them yet. more info here
  25. The recipe builders can give indication of the yeast attenuation when you select the yeast. I found it interesting to see the variations on FG. But it will also affect residual sweetness. Look at the range, from a saison or champagne yeast at 90%, to ale yeasts at 70%. https://www.brewersfriend.com/homebrew/recipe/calculator The "Cry Havoc" liquid yeast gives pretty sweet/malty result and you can use it for ales and lagers too.
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