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KLR

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About KLR

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    Brewmaster in Training
  • Birthday 11/02/1968

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    Male
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    Muscle Cars, Playing the electric bass, working out, Fishing, Spending time with my family

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  1. I usually check my bottles at least once a week while they're carbonating. If I have a bottle that's not carbonating I will carefully add a carbonation drop or two depending on bottle size. Drops are easier than adding sugar for this. I place the bottle in a sink, unscrew the cap, and drop I in a carb drop and recap immediately. Do not wait to recap because it will foam over. Repeat this for each carb drop, and make sure your hands are clean or use a sanitized tweezers.
  2. Use 1 packet per batch. Half a packet at brewing time and half a packet at bottling time. Each HME comes with a packet , so I'm really not sure why you would ever have to reuse it or store equipment filled with it.
  3. Priming sugar may not be the culprit, especially if you're using the suggested amount. The malts that you're using, premature bottling, , or the angle of your glass ,could actually be causing this. Carapils and wheat malts will definitely add more foam or head to the beer. If your beer was bottled prematurely the unfermented sugars will carry over into the bottle and add to the carbonation. This is very common if your using a saison yeast. Saison yeasts often require more than 3 weeks of fermentation before bottling because they have a slower attenuatiuon. If you're pouring down the middle of the glass and not down the the side at an angle this will also produce more foam / head than usual. Hope this helps.
  4. Must have been a really brief sale. I get everything emailed 2-3 times a day from sears and kmart including the day of your original post and have not seen them less then 11.00. Regardless their prices are usually cheaper then MB and you only need to spend $35 for free shipping. MB sales and promos used to be a lot better.
  5. I'm still using my Coleman cooler . I replace the ice pack every 12hrs and it works great.
  6. I saw the them on their website for $11 .
  7. The reason for my post was for the amount of water MB suggests for every one their recipes without really stressing the pot size. You will rarely need a pot bigger than 4qt for any MB recipe . However you will need more than the recommended 4cups (1qt) of water for any recipe requiring grain steeping or hop boiling. Josh must have a magical 3qt pot that keeps a 4oz sack of grain covered by only 4cups of water for a 30 min steep. Or after steeping grains in 4 cups of water are you going to add only 8 oz of sparge water and miraculously be at the right water level to boil hops? Probably not, but then again MB recommends adding the hop sack and then removing it from heat and adding the HME is what they advise in almost every MB recipe. How much hop utilization are you expecting from such a brief addition? Also, adding the hop sack to the fermenter is not the saving grace following this super brief addition it pretty much makes no difference to the beer and gets in the way when you bottle. A lot of the recipe instructions need to be recipe specific and not just basic refill instructions with the recipe ingredients plopped in there.
  8. The new partial mash recipes are a great idea but need a little tweaking in the amount of water used for steeping. I am really not sure why they suggest starting every recipe with 4 cups of water ,which is fine for a basic refill but definitely not enough if you are steeping grains or boiling hops. For steeping I recommend at least 1.5 qts for 2oz of grain, and 2qts for 4oz or more because the sack needs to be under the water the whole time you're steeping. if you use the recommended 4 cups(1qt) the sack will stick out and you'll be losing half of the steep into the atmosphere. If your using a 3 qt pot and start with 4cups(1qt) of water you may have enough water initially to cover the sack but you will come up a litte short as it steeps. A smaller pot will hold the water level higher but when you remove the sack(s) the water level will drop substantially. I recommend using a 4 qt pot to play it safe as the steep and/or boil commences, because you will need the extra room when your're ready to add the HME(especially Seasonals) to the pot. They recommend the 8oz sparge (rinse) afterwards which is great but your going to lose at least 8oz while steeping so you will come up short for your boil. If you are planning on boiling hops sparge with at least 16oz of water (for at least a 10 min boil or so). Here again if the hop sacks are sticking out of the water stationary and not floating freely your losing a lot of the hop flavor and aroma into the air. Finally always make sure you have at least 4cups(1qt) of water in your pot at boil before you add the HME! Good Luck!
  9. Enjoy your deluxe kit . You now can make two 2 gallon batches!
  10. How the beer tastes is a lot more important then ABV. Why are so many brewers mainly concerned with ABV?
  11. Color may change a little from bottling time until conditioning is complete. As long as the beer taste good and has solid carbonation after refrigeration you're good.
  12. I would not advise storing bottles with sanitizer in it . NO rinse once activated only lasts a few days and is certainly not effective weeks later. After drinking your beer rinse the bottle several times with warm to hot water , add a half of a teaspoon of craftmeister oxygenated cleaner or the equivalent. Fill the bottle with warm/hot water cap it and lay on its side overnight. Empty it the next day and rinse it out 4 or 5 times, then let it dry on an angle. Once dry, store it upright without the cap until your ready to use it. Sanitize all bottles on bottling day only If you continue to store the bottles with sanitizer in them for extended periods of time (especially plastic ) the sanitizer will weaken the bottle and could possibly affect the taste of your beer.
  13. Those dents are from shipping I've seen them many times. When you receive cans of HMEs with plastic caps always check underneath them for a yeast packet and to make sure they're not dented. If they are tell MB immediately and they'll usually replace them. They should be fine to make
  14. I f you ferment for 3wks in the right temperature range you don't need to take a hydrometer reading unless you want to waste time and beer
  15. Enough of the collaboration recipes already. Come out with a good yeasts of your own, offer 1lb packages of DME ad LME, and more hops. Leave the off the wall stuff up to Sam Calagione
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