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Everything posted by RickS

  1. Yes it is completely normal. To keep the trub, ( stuff that is settled on the bottom of the keg), put 2 CD cases under the front of the keg to tilt it, so that the trub falls to the back of the keg.
  2. Thanks swen, I was told it was corn sugar, however it could still be used for bottle priming, could it not?
  3. You could also use the booster for bottle priming instead of using table sugar. All the booster is is corn sugar.
  4. With the Canadian Blond you could make http://www.mrbeer.com/beach-babe-blonde-recipe. I just did and it is conditioning right now.
  5. The stickies that RickBeer is referring to are the posts that always show at the top of each forum.
  6. It doesn't. There is nothing that you can do to control that amount of Foam on top of your beer, unless you are pouring it to fast.
  7. To determine when fermentation is complete is not a measurement of Alcohol, it is a measurement of Gravity. When you first put a batch into the LBK you should take and record the Original Gravity. After 21 days you take another sample of the beer and check the final gravity, over a period of 3 days if the FG ( final gravity) is the same for 3 days then fermentation is complete and it is time to bottle. To determine ABV (alcohol by volume you subtract the FG from the OG and muttliply by 131. As per Mr.Beer instructions.
  8. The foam is Ok. As they say, "Don't fear the Foam."
  9. From what I have read, you probably should have waited to add the rasberrys for a few days.
  10. The Priming Chart that I have says 2 tsp of table sugar for the 750 ml bottle. I wouold go with that, I really do not think that 10 ml is that much difference.
  11. Liike I said before this forum is owned by a company that you do not endorse, so your advice needs to be given on a forum that is not owned by the company that you do not endorse.
  12. Your resonse is not acceptable, because for new brewers using this product do not need to be overwhelmed by information from someone that cannot endorse the product.
  13. Since you know nothing about Mr. Beer, How can you make a statement about anything on this forum?
  14. Mr. Beer sells fruit that works with the HME that Mr. Beer sells and there are specific instruction on how to use these fruits. Since you know nothinhg about Mr.Beer, this is not the place for you to be instructing anyone.
  15. Amen to what Rick says. I am new and learning, and I enjoy learning. So if you don't want to learn then don't do it, like you said in your post.
  16. I would say bottle it, if it tases like flat beer.
  17. Living in a mobile home, (yes, I might be a redneck, because my house has wheels) I don't have the luxury of a basement.
  18. What HME did you use? Did you see any reaction within 2 = 24 hours after tossing the yeast? Do you have a Hydrometer?
  19. Actually, you're the first person to do that. It's quite concerning. Have you sought professional help? Quoting Larry the Cable Guy, " Now that's funny, right there. I don't care who you are."
  20. You can just buy the LBK in the replacement parts for $10.00
  21. Wrong sequence. See Bluejaye's response. No boiling until AFTER steep. Sorry, I misunderstood too. Thanks for correcting me.
  22. Have you looked through all of the Recipes on Mr. Beer.com?
  23. Start your water and bring it to a boil, to 155-160 degrees, put the bag of grain into that water and lt it set for 20-30 minutes. Then take the bag out and proceed as normal for brewing Mr.Beer. Add the HME to the water that the grain was steeped in.
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