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  1. FWIW, I've had better luck with DME (than LME) in keeping the color on the lighter end for pale ales. As Josh is suggesting, you can also add just a portion of your "E" for the hop boil and the remainder later.
  2. I'm very intrigued by the notion of brewing with flour. I've been seeing it in some commercial examples - most notably TiredHands Milkshake IPA series - though I haven't had an opportunity to try any. Can you comment on any lessons learned or tips/tricks to brewing with flour? In this recipe, it looks like you add directly to the boil for 5 minutes (no grain bag), and the primary intent is to add flavor. Does it also contribute to haze or a turbid appearance? Mouthfeel? Thanks in advance - really interesting recipe.
  3. Your recipe says you're steeping 1lb of 2-row. I may be mistaken, but I think you have to mash the 2-row to get anything out of it. I'd drop the 2-row completely - your other grains don't need to be converted, so you don't really need the 2-row. Keep the carapils & C10 for a straight steep, and dial up/down your fermentables with Pale LME. And, more late addition hops - but that's just my preference.
  4. I think BDawg took care of your yeast question. In terms of promoting more 'wheaty' flavor, I'd think that with the weissbier HME and 2lbs of Golden LME you're probably already there - even with the added hops and zest. My recommendation would be to keep the recipe as-is. If you're bent on adding grains, you could mash a small amount (1/4 lb) of flaked wheat with some 2-row.
  5. Recipe looks pretty good to me. A couple minor suggestions come to mind: - why the CaraPils? would you consider replacing with flaked oats or barley? - you could consider adding roasted barley - though I wouldn't change the ratios of base malt to specialty if you do ... maybe reduce the C120 to 8oz and add 8oz roasted barley I'm currently fermenting a partial mash oatmeal stout using a base pilsen LME with oatmeal / 2-row mash and pale chocolate / C120 / roasted barley. Bittered with Magnum and added Columbus at flameout, planning to dry "hop" with cracked coffee beans.
  6. Depends on what you mean by "bring it up a notch" ... if you want to improve the mouthfeel of the beer with minimal impact the original flavor/color/balance/aroma, then steep some carapils. If you want to make a tweak to the recipe, you'd need to provide some more detail on what you're looking for. If you just want more ABV (sigh) then by all means chuck some booster packets in there but don't be surprised with the result. I think you'd be better served doing a shot of vodka and sticking with the original recipe in that case.
  7. I'd be interested to eventually see tasting notes on this one. Looks like a straight-up bitter bomb - I don't know that you get much else from Warrior & Galena, and with only 1 oz of Mt. Hood I think any hop flavor presence will be muted for an IPA. A local farm brewery here in VA makes what they call an estate ale - Gentleman Farmer from Lickinghole Creek Craft Brewery. The first time I tasted it I wasn't sure what it was supposed to be - very bitter and not much else going on. I eventually came to appreciate it very much.
  8. Interesting recipe. I used the Breiss Rye LME for a Rye ESB recipe last fall, and was not happy with it. Turned out very hot & spicy for me. Based on some guidance from other users here, if I were to make that one again I'd steep flaked rye to better control the impact. I don't get the hop schedule - I think you're wasting Amarillo as a bittering addition. Bitter is bitter IMO, and you could substitute a cheaper hop (Magnum) and get the same effect. I think you'll get more from your Amarillo as a late addition. Good luck!
  9. That's a nice, straight-forward grain bill for an IPA. Amarillo is my favorite flavor/aroma hop- one of my standard recipes is an oatmeal IPA that features Amarillo with a similar grain bill to this one, just swapping in instant oats for the carapils. I'd go in a different direction with the rest of your hop schedule - Simcoe is wasted IMO as a pure bittering addition. Why not use something cheaper like Magnum to bitter, and get some flavor from Simcoe as a later addition. I also don't get the El Dorado at 35m .... you're halfway between peak flavoring and peak bittering. I'd just move that one later in the boil as well. Just some thoughts - I'm sure it'll turn out great.
  10. Hoppy Belgian lager ... different and interesting.
  11. I think S-23 and 34/70 are lager yeasts, for what it's worth. I'm currently conditioning a saison using Danstar Belle Saison (rehydrated) and am about 12 days into fermenting a Belgian IPA using T-58. Though I haven't tasted either yet (the real test), I've been pretty happy with the primary fermentation of both. The saison also carbed up in under a week. Looking at your recipe, I'd think about T-58 if you want some yeast character. If you want to feature the Cascade against the Belgian malt, I'd use a clean yeast like S-05.
  12. Josh- I don't get the bolded part. I thought the point of a hop stand is to increase flavor & aroma from flameout additions by allowing them extended contact with the wort prior to chilling all the way down to pitching / fermenting temp ... ? I generally add flameout / hop stand additions around 180 degrees and then put a lid on my pot to keep any vapors in the kettle. Thanks-
  13. Did RickBeer really just say "Ignore what you read"? Is the earth still rotating west-to-east? My LHBS was closed yesterday, and it turns out that's a good thing since I couldn't get more yeast to pitch. Woke up this morning to vigorous air lock activity - 1 pop per second - so I think we're finally underway. I'll be interested to see how the remainder of fermentation & conditioning go - this is a house IPA recipe with the only thing changed being the yeast, so I should get a good comparison to past versions. Still, a 60 hour lag to the first signs of activity and ~100 lag to vigorous activity give me pause about using this yeast again.
  14. I didn't check the dates on the yeast (shame on me). Both were used within a week of purchase from my LHBS, so I'd guess no. I'm going to check with them this evening. Doing some further reading, some suggest that 1 sachet of MJ pitched dry / no starter doesn't contain enough cells for 5g batches. Not sure if that's true - the sachet label itself says to pitch directly into up to 6.5g of wort.
  15. Any updates on experience with Mangrove Jack yeast? I've done two batches, and my experience has been less than stellar ... First batch was a Kolsch-ish ale fermented with MJ Workhorse. Fermentation started quickly, and I had no noticeable issues during 3 weeks in the LBK. It had a surprisingly strong green apple taste at bottling, but I counted on that conditioning out. I'm now at over six weeks in the bottle, and the green apple is still strong and it's undercarbonated for the amount of priming sugar I added. Not at all sure this is a yeast issue, but it's one of my suspicions. I'm considering opening a room temperature bottle and adding a pinch of S-05 to see if it helps. Second batch is an IPA brewed last Thursday, using MJ West Coast. I had no visible signs of fermentation for 48 hours - this one is in a 7.9 gallon Speidel with an airlock. Sunday morning through today I've seen some minimal airlock activity, but not enough to convince me the yeast has started to work vigorously. I've read that there can be some extended lag time with MJ West Coast, but I'm at the point where I'm considering pitching some S-05 on top to get things going. In both cases I can't point to any deviations in my process / other ingredients / conditions that I suspect as culprits. Sanitization, brew process, pitching temps, fermentation temps have all been good. Appreciate advice / thoughts-
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