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BDawg62

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Everything posted by BDawg62

  1. Congrats, it is always a good feeling when all of the hard work put into a brew reaps rewards.
  2. @MRB-Rick Thank you for your post. Knowing that our concerns are relevant to Mr. Beer and that you have addressed them is good for us all. Also the update to our perceived lack of participation in this forum is wonderful. Knowing that the questions that we have spent a lot of time answering are still providing help is awesome. Even though I no longer brew with Mr. Beer products, I use this forum to help those who like me are starting out their journey with Mr. Beer. I hope that somehow my answers and the answers of others here have kept some brewers in the hobby that would have left otherwise. Your post alone will make me continue to check this forum every day as I have always done. Prost, Dawg
  3. 1. Who says you have to empty the collection jar after 5 days. If you would have fermented in an LBK you wouldn't have gotten rid of the trub. 2. Same as #1 3. I say just leave it 4. S-33 can drop out. Keep raising the temperature as fermentation progresses, this will help prevent this from happening.
  4. As @zorak1066 and @Jdub said above temperature control is the second most important thing in brewing (sanitization is the most important). Bottle this one and as Zorak said, add some bourbon to cut the apple flavor from the acetaldehyde to make it drinkable. Also, be sure to brew a few as the instructions and tips from this forum state. At this point your main concern should be learning how to brew not changing the beer as it is intended. Brew a few batches of American Light, once you get that one so that it taste good you have all of your processes down and can go on with confidence to other styles. As Zorak said, this forum isn't as busy as it used to be but you will get answers in time. Be patient with your questions and also use the search feature, chances are good there is already an answer to your question somewhere on this forum.
  5. It is nice to have that group but there are a lot of questions that are asked there that have been answered 100s of times here.
  6. Administrators you can choose to remove this post if inappropriate Gentlemen, Here is a recipe for a simple Blueberry Mead that I demonstrated last night for my brew club. Note: if you were to ferment this in one of your LBKs, I would probably not use it again for beer since the aroma will be impossible to remove. Also, you could substitute any flavor of Knudsen Juice for this recipe. Simple Blueberry Mead 1 gallon Batch (finished) Recipe 2 – 32oz bottles of Knudsen Blueberry Juice 4# - Honey (any variety) 1 – 5gm pkt of Lalvin 71B yeast 6.25 gm – Go Ferm Protect 6 gm – Fermaid O (4 additions of 1.5gm at 24hr, 48hr, 72hr and 1/3 sugar break) Instructions 1. Mix together the juice and honey and mix until honey is completely incorporated 2. Top off with water to 1.25 gallon mark 3. Rehydrate yeast in 125ml (about 4oz) 95 to 105 degree water with Go Ferm dissolved 4. Pitch yeast after rehydration 5. For first 7 days, degas every 12 hours to remove excess carbon dioxide 6. Add 1.5 gm of Fermaid O per schedule above (use Tosna 2.0 to determine actual requirements) be sure to degas prior to this step, you will make a mess otherwise. 7. After approximately 2 to 3 weeks (when gravity is stable) transfer clear mead into a secondary container. 8. At transfer add .38gm of Potassium Metabisulfate and 1/2 tsp of Potassium Sorbate 9. After another 3 to 4 weeks transfer clear mead to a 1 gallon jug and age for another 1 to 3 months. 10. Bottle and then age to your liking. Mead is ready to drink at bottling but benefits from aging from 6 months to a year.
  7. Three things here 1. Unless you are adding pure oxygen as @RickBeer stated you are potentially doing more harm than good (see #2 and #3) 2. You need an inline filter on your airline unless you are using medical grade oxygen 3. An airstone is not easy to sanitize and thus risk adding an infection to your beer. I used to do this and saw no better results than simply shaking my fermenter (even in 5 gallon batches), so now I skip this potential infection risk.
  8. Stretch, I use a vinator and don't worry about the foam, I just let it ooze out of the top of the bottle when it is filling and then I cap on top of it. Dawg
  9. I use a refractometer exclusively. There are calculators that give you adjusted gravity once fermentation has begun. I agree with Zorak that you have to stir your initial wort or you won't get accurate gravity readings. This is not an issue once fermentation has finished. I will say that it probably isn't the most reliable method, I believe my error rate is about .01 when checking final gravity. In my book that is close enough. It also depends on the type of refractometer you have, I have a digital refractometer, so I get pretty accurate readings.
  10. If you are new to brewing and have the 2 gallon MRB fermenter with the Kollar, I would use it. It is there and as a new brewer it just makes sense to use it. It will not hurt anything and will definately make sure your Krausen doesn't overflow.
  11. Stretch, They keep the instructions simple because they want newbies to brew year around. There are few if any places in the majority of households with a dark place that has ambient temperatures around 60-f in the middle of July. That is why you need some way of keeping your brew cold and if that were in the instructions, the majority of newbies would say it is too expensive to deal with brewing this kit. Thus either never brewing or returning it to where it was purchased. In either case, MRB would not receive any future sales from that customer. Remember that most MRB kits are given as gifts and the so the actual brewer is not actually out any money if he never brews it or fails at brewing it. The fallout rate of new brewers is high already and further complicating the instructions would raise the rate even more (wow, I sound like @RickBeer) There is only a small percentage of people who brew these kits that ever join the forum and work to improve their first bad brew. Congratulations to you for doing this, you will in time become a better brewer because you are here and asking the tough questions.
  12. Brown sugar contains molasses, which is not good in beer, it does tend to leave a licorice type of taste. Regular white sugar will dry the beer and not leave those flavors behind. You could use 3/4 cup of honey but the flavor of honey goes away and sugar has the same effect without the cost. Corn sugar could be substituted but may leave a little sweetness behind because it is not 100% fermentable.
  13. I agree with the posters above, I did not like it and if I brewed it again would brew with cane sugar instead of brown sugar. Cane sugar would be a 1 : 1 substitute.
  14. I mix my StarSan in distilled water. I buy it at the grocery store and add StarSan to the jug of water and mix, no need to pour out some of it and mix then add more water to get your gallon. If you use distilled water and keep the jug or spray bottle sealed, it is good until it starts to get cloudy. This can be several months or more depending on how much you brew.
  15. I would say that you didn't really have enough grains for the recipe, even with good efficiency you would have been in the 1.030 range. They didn't have the correct crush or because you put them in a sack also contributed to the mash being inefficient. It will not be a potent beer but it will at least give you a start in the processes for all grain.
  16. Also, please note that if you only have a 1 gallon jug to ferment this recipe in and you put 1 gallon of wort in that jug, you will end up with a mess. Also, I have brewed several beers with a 1 gallon volume. These are test batches that I do on the stove when I don't want to get out all of my equipment for a recipe that I don't know how good it will be anyway. They typically start with 2 to 3# of grain and my wort collected before the boil is usually a little more than 2 gallons. I boil very aggressively and boil off about 1 gallon during my hour boil. The instructions for your kit, aside from the line 3 and 4 duplication, are not great but they are not totally incorrect either. These instructions were written by an experienced all grain brewer with an actual mash tun or a means of straining the grains to separate them from the wort.
  17. Depending on how strong the "winey-sour" aftertaste is it could just be what is called "Extract Twang". Some people have a greater ability to taste this than others. Also, depending on your carbonation level, it could be from the carbonic acid from carbonation. Try this, pour part of a beer and stir it with a spoon to get most of the carbonation out of it. Then taste it, if it still has the sour aftertaste it is not carbonic acid. This would mean that it is either the extract twang or something else.
  18. BDawg62

    older yeast

    Yeast find a way
  19. Is it not tightening because the threads are stripped? Call Mr. Beer customer service, they are excellent and will help with your issue.
  20. BDawg62

    older yeast

    If you have Trub you have fermentation. I have had batches that never formed a thick layer of krausen and then others that started that way and then all of a sudden overflowed. Give it a week and then check your gravity, if it is close to FG then you are good. If not by then, I would pitch the US-05.
  21. That was what I used for my brew kettle for over a year. No issues with any of the beers.
  22. It must be nice to have graduates of a university up there that can read and find an address. 🤣🤣🤣
  23. @Vfwrider316 glad to see this type of post. It means we are doing something worthwhile here. Dawg
  24. My current job status makes June almost impossible. I may or may not be working at that time so money will be tight.
  25. One of your first tasks with that new pot is to put 3 gallons of water in it and boil for 60 minutes on whatever burner or stove you plan to use for brewing. Then cool that water and see what volume you have left. Subtract that number from the initial 3 gallons and you will have your "boil off" rate. You will need this with AG to calculate your total mash water volumes. Also note that during the mash some water is lost to the grain absorption. Brewing software usually has a default volume to account for grain absorption but you need to know your "boil off" number.
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