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Everything posted by mcasselman

  1. I have bought every hme they sell. I prefer ipa's and have been drinking all craft beers for many many years now. I now have a closet full of conditioning mr beer. My most recent beers that hit the 4 week condition point was the diablo ipa, nw pale, seasonal dopplebock. Strangely they all tasted very very similar except ipa was slightly hoppier (only in bitterness, not flavor or aroma). I know the dopplebock will take longer to condition due to higher OG, but I was curious. I think I just get a "sweetness" from the beers that just throws me off I guess I just made my 3rd 5 gallon lme / hops and steeped grains batche this past weekend. To be fair I just do not think the hme's work for my taste buds. I also enjoy the full process.
  2. I guess I am just frustrated that after 4 months, I still have not had a beer that tasted good (in my opinion) and yet I followed the directions. And like you said Rick, it is hard to screw up making beer, but somehow I feel I have. I think I just expected more. Oh well, time will tell.
  3. What is the recommended wort temp to pitch Mr Beer yeast? Lowest to highest.
  4. No additional sugars or booster. yes to all the rest. as for pitching temp, used refrigerated water as recommended.
  5. Speaking of pitching temperatures, from Fermentis for US-05 "Alternatively, pitch the yeast directly in the fermentation vessel providing the temperature of the wort is above 20°C (68°F). Progressively sprinkle the dry yeast into the wort ensuring the yeast covers all the surface of wort available in order to avoid clumps. Leave for 30 minutes, then mix the wort using aeration or by wort addition." Beer making can be confusing?????
  6. I have 11 more Mr Beer batches conditioning. I will give the one's I have already listed more time. As for pitching temperature, I refrigerate my water and follow the instructions. The last 6 or so read around 64F when I pitched. What is to cold to pitch Mr Beer yeast?
  7. Doing everything by the book. I have tasted the basic wheat, basic pilsner, dark winter, nw pale, diablo, and dopplebock. All but the first 2 pretty taste the same to me. Maybe "caramel" is a better description. I love and have loved Hoppy beers for a long time and mainly drink them. Maybe it is just me.
  8. Is the S-04 as active as the Nottingham. Doing a 5 gallon split into 2 lbk's and was curious. Will the 2 large baking sheets contain the spill?
  9. I have the lbk's on large baking sheets with 1" tall sides. In your experience will this hold the spill? I plan on loosening lids 1/4 turn.
  10. They mention not to use wort for rehydration because it will cause a loss. Just assumed pitching straight to wort was the same thing. Must be plenty lest to do the job though. I have noticed you loosen lid a quarter turn for these "active" scenerios. I will probably do the same. I will let it overflow, clean LBK caps, sanitize, and put them back on.
  11. 1st time using this yeast, and read their data sheet. I normally pitch yeast dry into cool wort, and most data sheets for other yeast say it is fine, but this one says not to. Has anyone else pitched this yeast dry with good results?
  12. But the NW Pale I did at 65F 3 weeks, then 4 weeks at 70F for bottle conditioning and it is quite cidery. Like I sad, hopefully one of the next 14 batches will not have any cider flavor. Time will tell.
  13. Dark Winter after 6 weeks still has slight cider flavor and the NW Pale after 4 weeks really has the cider flavor. Had the issue with Pilsner (1st) and finally gave up on it after 8 weeks (had to give it away). To be fair fermented the Dark Winter (3rd) at 72F room temperature, but the NW Pale (4th) fermented at 65F room temp. Did the Diablo IPA (4th) with the NW Pale, and its only saving grace is the hops to make it somewhat drinkable. Starting to think the "cider flavor" is just part of the straight up HME method. Not bashing Mr Beer, but just have not "liked" anything I have made so far. Have made 14 other batches per the directions that are conditioning, and hopefully something will change.
  14. Jim, I usually go 3 weeks with all my mr beer recipies, but this NW Brewing recipe recommends 2 week primary and 2 weeks secondary. Thinking 4 weeks must give best results based on OG and yeast choice by design.
  15. Will probaby just let the KamaCitra go 4 weeks in the primary (bucket). Used whirlfloc in boil, so clarity will not be an issue.
  16. Rick, I know you brew the White House Honey kits, and per NB kits, they recommend 1 week primary and 1 week secondary. I have read you check FG at 18 days and cold crash. I am doing their KamaCitra and it recommends 2 primary and 2 weeks secondary. Was going to leave it in the primary for 4 weeks. Was wondering if you had done other kits that recommend longer fermentations than the 2 of the White House kits, and if you go the extra time?
  17. Doing my 1st 5 gallon batch split between 2 lbk's this weekend. Have done a couple in pails, and have always cooled wort in ice bath before pouring into bucket. Following the mr beer method, I am thinking that if I refrigerate the water like I used to, I should be able to skip cooling wort in ice bath. Thinking I put roughly 3/4 of a gallon 38F water in each lbk and split wort between them. Thinking this will get wort to roughly 68F to pitch yeast. Just wondering If others who do this use the same method?
  18. Brewed at 55F (uses a true lager yeast) 3 weeks, D-rest 3 days, bottled and have been carbing / conditioning for 4 weeks at 70F. My question is whether there is anything to gain by lagering it at 55F from this point forward?
  19. Great, thanks. I have 2 other batches with hops added at same ponit and my fermenting closet smells fantastic when you open the door.
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