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Gerry P.

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Gerry P. last won the day on May 10 2015

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About Gerry P.

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    Brewmaster in Training
  • Birthday 01/13/1968

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    New Orleans
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    Brewing of course (been doing it off-and-on since 1995), cooking, growing hot peppers in my parking lot, beer, whiskey, whisky, mead, books, movies (especially horror movies of varying qualiity), music, and World of Warcraft. (If you're gonna be a nerd, you have to own it.)

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  1. Gerry P.

    Black IPA

    Ok, I'll assume you're right and amend my post: I didn't do the math, but if there's a potential ABV of 12.9%, WLP041 (Pacific Ale Yeast) might not be a good choice. White Labs' website lists its alcohol tolerance as "Medium", which is 5-10%, but Vakko says it's really 5% to 10-point-something%. You'd need to pitch an additional strain at some point. Yeast management gets a little tricky up there. My prediction for the next post in this thread: "No, it's 10.82%".
  2. Gerry P.

    Black IPA

    Oops, sorry about the double post.
  3. Gerry P.

    Black IPA

    I didn't do the math, but if there's a potential ABV of 12.9%, WLP041 (Pacific Ale Yeast) might not be a good choice. White Labs' website lists its alcohol tolerance as "Medium", which is 5-10%. You'd need to pitch an additional strain at some point. Yeast management gets a little tricky up there.
  4. Gerry P.

    Black IPA

    I didn't do the math, but if there's a potential ABV of 12.9%, WLP041 (Pacific Ale Yeast) might not be a good choice. White Labs' website lists its alcohol tolerance as "Medium", which is 5-10%. You'd need to pitch an additional strain at some point. Yeast management gets a little tricky up there
  5. I've been reading a book about brewing that I picked up recently, and I thought of this thread when I came across this part: "I assume you all know how to bottle beer; it's a basic step. Rack beer from the fermenter into a bottling bucket, add priming sugar, and then siphon into bottles. Cap, and let naturally carbonate at room temperature for a week or two, then chill to serving temperature." -Gordon Strong, "Brewing Better Beer". I figured y'all should send him a bunch of Tweets or e-mails saying "No, it's 4 weeks".
  6. LMAO I missed that comment earlier. Rick that's some pretty funny sh** right there!
  7. I think you're right. They're probably referring to the time it takes for the beer to be drinkable, even though it might still be a bit green. It will continue to improve for a while after that, but it shouldn't taste like complete ass (I know, y'all will defer to my expertise in that area, hahaha) after 2 or 3 weeks. The problem is that things like CAL, even though they might be low in alcohol, are not necessarily the best candidates for a quick turnaround beer because they don't have any flavor components that mask those green flavors. I think some people rush their first batch made from a light, under-hopped extract kit, then when they're unhappy with the results they assume that every beer they brew needs to condition for a month before it's drinkable. If you have some brewing experience under your belt and have never done so, consider trying to brew a beer with a fast turnaround time. I'm not talking about something like a "From grain to glass in 7 days" type of thing, but more like a nice hoppy IPA or Irish dry stout that you will enjoy after 4-5 weeks tops. Everyone always talks about upping their brewing game by making bigger beers that require more aging, but I think it's also fun to go in the other direction and know that if you want to, you can come up with a tasty batch of homebrew in a hurry, relatively speaking.
  8. The REAL meaning of "Rule of Thumb" (turn your volume up):
  9. I probably shouldn't disagree with someone who has reached a perfect standard of brewing, but not all beers benefit from extended aging. In fact, it has been said that certain beers will reach their peak of flavor early, then they will begin to lose it. Typically this means that hop flavor and aroma will begin to dissipate, like in some IPAs for example. Now, I said "it has been said" because keeping beer around for too long has never been an issue for me so I cannot vouch for this. But I think it's safe to say that you do not want to store your case of CAL down in the cellar with your Chateau Le (insert name of fancy wine here) so that you can break it out when your newborn graduates from college. What I can vouch for is the fact that beer reaches a flavor plateau at some point. With that bitter I mentioned it will be 3 weeks in the bottle, tops. I'm drinking one now as I type this. I figure most of your standard Mr. Beer kits will peak in a month or less. A recent biere de garde (actually a saison... don't tell anybody) peaked around 1.5 months or so. I wonder if John Palmer has any more insight into the subject. Well, what do you know...he does! "Conditioning times. How long you choose to condition will depend on your recipe and your preference. Different beer styles benefit from different amounts of conditioning time. Generally, the higher the original gravity, the longer the conditioning time needed for a beer to reach peak flavor. Small beers such as 1.035 O.G. (8.76 °P) pale ales will need less than two weeks. Stronger, more complex ales such as porters may require a month or more. Very strong beers such as Doppelbocks and barleywines can take six months to a year before they condition to their peak flavor." -http://www.morebeer.com/articles/conditioning
  10. That's a good point. Sometimes I forget the target audience and get a little ahead of myself. I think it's kind of a balancing act between making something worth drinking and doing it in a reasonable amount of time. Plus it seems like Mr. Beer markets its stuff to appeal to perspective new brewers who aren't "craft" beer drinkers yet. They're not going to make a beginner kit that has a fast turnaround time, like a dry stout or a bitter for example. Personally, when I started brewing I wouldn't have been thrilled at the prospect of waiting 2 months for a $20 case of lite beer.
  11. If you guys want to say 4 weeks that's super, but a quick Google search will show that plenty of people say otherwise. I'm talking about the time it takes for a beer to taste acceptable, not to reach its peak of flavor. I generally say 3 weeks in the bottle, but not always. There's no single correct answer to this, and it depends on the type of beer. I have a case (minus 3 or 4 beers) of 4.4% bitter sitting in the kitchen that's carbonated and surprisingly clear, but slightly green, after a week in the bottle. I made this beer because I was out of homebrew and wanted something with a "quick" turnaround time of 4-5 weeks. Is it my most favoritest beer ever? Nope. Is it decent? Yep. It could use a little more head, but then again couldn't we all? . I'll start giving it to other people after 2 or 3 weeks. That's slow compared to some of the quick-turnaround beers people talk about on other homebrewing forums. It isn't necessary to wait 7 or more weeks for every single batch of homebrew you make if you don't want to. Sometimes I'll spend all day cooking a meal, sometimes I make a sandwich. Michelangelo painted the Sistine Chapel, but he also drew sketches. You get my point. Anyway if you think I'm wrong, please open your Brewing Bibles to the oft-quoted Book of St. Palmer, Chapter 11, Verse 6.
  12. Yeah, $3 an ounce might make me a little more stingy with the hops. Not so much at $1.75. You're right though, you can't argue with numbers.
  13. You know, I think in this case the author (St. Palmer) went out of his way to make a point that was applicable in large scale commercial brewing, but probably isn't worth mentioning for small-scale homebrewing. "If you consider the cost of bittering a beer in terms of the amount of alpha acid per unit weight of hop used, it is more economical to use a half ounce of a high alpha hop rather than 1 or 2 ounces of a low alpha hop." Well, golly gee. Thanks for the math lesson, I have trouble doin' number addin' and subtr...subrat...subart...minusin' stuff. I might save a whole dollar next time! Maybe even a million dollars!
  14. Sure, why not? Sometimes 3 weeks is recommended, sometimes 2 weeks is recommended, sometimes 6 months is recommended...Throw in 4 weeks, the more the merrier!
  15. I think the rule of thumb is 3 weeks, but it depends. Generally speaking, the bigger the beer the more it should get, but even that isn't always true. For example, a lighter beer like the Canadian blonde will show flaws more than not-as-light one. I just bottled a bitter a week ago, and it's drinkable now. (Note: "drinkable" doesn't necessarily mean it's going to win any awards.) I bottled a Belgian pale ale about a month ago and it could use some more conditioning, although the flavors in that one might be caused by the minerals in my tap water and I'm not going to get into all that. I bottled a barleywine recently that I'm scared to open before November. Literally. Anywho, no don't dump it. Wait a week or two and try another one. If the off flavors haven't started to dissipate, there could be something wrong besides lack of conditioning time. As long as it's more or less drinkable I would save it, maybe squeeze an orange in it or something to mask whatever the problem is. If it's not drinkable I'd still save it and drink it straight while flagellating myself and listening to Bruno Mars' "Happy" on a loop as punishment for my failure. I'm hardcore like that.
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