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Everything posted by JoshR

  1. Your yield will vary depending on the recipe and yeast flocculation (how compact the trub is). The last beer having more sediment than the others is typical. Let us know how it came out! Cheers!
  2. Another Tucsonan here (obviously, since I work for Mr. Beer...lol)! I look forward to meeting many of you at future events. Cheers!
  3. This is a very useful tool I found via haerbob's link: http://www.ezwatercalculator.com/ Cheers!
  4. Distilled water can be used, but it usually lacks the minerals needed for a good mash conversion (if you are an all-grain brewer) and the minerals are also beneficial for good yeast health. And as noted above, if you're into hops, a bit of minerals (especially gypsum) will really make them stand out. But then again as noted above, distilled water is necessary when you want to match a certain water profile of an area. Some brewing software, such as Beersmith, will have the water profiles of several major brewing cities. If you like the profile of a certain water (for example, I really love the Artesian well water from Olympia, WA, as does my yeast), you can usually call the water company of that area and request a water profile. Then you can add the minerals in the correct reatios to match that profile. Some people really get into "cloning water" for their beers. It's an advanced technique, but you can make some pretty amazing beer if done properly. After all, one of the most important components of a good beer is the water.
  5. Really great resources! Thanks for sharing!
  6. This is how I always do it. Like you said, it's always good to be safe.
  7. It's very difficult to tell in the early stages. It's always best to just leave it alone to do it's thing until ready to bottle. Then you'll know if you've had any contamination. Sanitation is the most important part of brewing. After all, you're not making the beer, the yeast is. You're simply giving the yeast a suitable, sanitary environment to thrive and do their job.
  8. The rings on the caps are for commercial use (to verify that they haven't been tampered with) and have no effect on your beer. It's best to just break them off before sanitizing as Rick suggested.
  9. That stout does sound amazing. I also all-grain brew once in awhile (when I have the time, which is rare these days). Would you be willing to share the recipe, zorak? I'd love to try that beer out one of these days. I love Imperial stouts.
  10. That sounds amazing! Let us know how it turns out!
  11. Great article! Thanks for posting this, Sarah! And great job to the community for their participation!
  12. Yeah, I seen that this morning. That deal went quick. lol.
  13. It can also negatively affect the hop/malt balance.
  14. Wow, 7 batches since Sept! You've been a busy brewer! Yeah, it sucks to be low on beer, especially tasty homebrew you made yourself. But it sounds like you'll have some more beer in time for St. Patty's day (perfect for the Irish stouts). I always try to stagger my batches so I always have beer brewing, beer conditioning, and beer in the fridge for drinking. It keeps me busy and happy. Cheers!
  15. Those are recipe sections of the forum.
  16. We have a Basic Recipe page here: http://community.mrbeer.com/forum/5-basic-recipes/ And an Advanced Recipe page here: http://community.mrbeer.com/forum/11-advanced-recipes/ Cheers!
  17. Bitterness will subside over time, but it can take a while. It depends on many factors, but it can easily take over 6 months for a noticable drop in bitterness to occur. Hop flavor and aroma will also dissipate, but as Jim pointed out, at a much faster rate, one of my recent beers changed drastically after 3 months in that regard.
  18. Simcoe is one of my favorite hops. Piney , citrusy, fruity and pungent. When I use Simcoe, I prefer to use nothing but simcoe. But yes, to answer your question, Simcoe is a relatively high alpha acid (12-14% AA), and works fine for bittering, but it works even better as a flavoring hop, imo. Happy brewing!
  19. Yes, fluctuations in temperatures can cause the yeast to tire and become sluggish. Consistency is key.
  20. You should also read up on steeping some grains in your pot before adding your wort to the fermenter. Certain grains will do different things depending on what you're looking for. For example, carapils malt will add more body to your beer, Crystal malts will add color and flavor (depending on the SRM of the malt), roasted grains can add color and roastiness, toasted malts may add a subtle biscuit or crisp, toasty flavor, and a little bit of wheat can lend your beer better head retention. You could even add some smoked or peated grains to give your beer some smokiness. Again, the possibilities are endless. Happy Brewing!
  21. I would try adding a bit of Cascade hops to the beer. It's a popular hop found in many beers such as Sierra Nevada. It's a good hop for beginners that are wanting to learn more about hop additions since it isn't too high in alpha acids so it won't make your beer too bitter, but it will add a really nice citrusy/piney hop flavor. Alternatively, you could try one of the noble hops such as Tettnang, Saaz, or Hallertau for more earthy/spicy/floral aroma/flavor. And that isn't even scratching the surface. The possibilities are endless.
  22. Patience, my friend. Good things come to those that wait.
  23. Great tip! Here in AZ, we're always looking for way to reduce our fermenting temps, especially in our triple-digit summers. Just be sure when covering your keg that you don't inhibit the release of Co2 from the notches in the lid. RickBeer's cooler idea is also very helpful. Keep the good ideas coming, guys!
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