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Brewer last won the day on June 1 2015

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  1. Thanks to Creeps - Yes, that was my concern so I was hoping that there might be a chart that was published by some non proprietary group that was meant for educational purposes - and BDawg62 - the fact that this information is often produced by the packagers of hops means that if they don't sell the hop then they act as if the hop does not exist - Google simply offers to provide you with a link to information available - It does not itself create the information... But thanks for your suggestion. I had tried that approach but found it less than useful which is why I posted my query here...
  2. Not sure the best forum to post this question but I am looking for a chart that will provide me with the key aroma characteristics of the best hops with which to dry hop. I see that some hops are good for bitterness and for flavor while others are good for only bittering and yet others are good only for flavoring (low alpha acids) but is there a list of hops considered really good for dry hopping? I am looking for tropical fruit notes.
  3. But to answer the question you posed. K-sorbate inhibits yeast from budding. Doesn't kill them and doesn't prevent fermentation in any literal way but what it does is prevent yeast cells from reproducing. That means that when yeast cell die there are none to replace them and I think that the chronological lifespan of a yeast cell once brought back into animated life is about 6 days... At least that is my understanding of what K-sorbate does, though if you have ever tried to ferment say, apple juice that has been preserved with sorbates, you will know that it is as close to impossible as possible to get the yeast to overcome the sorbates. That said "pasteurizing" fruit (AKA cooking it) makes fruit taste like jam.. but you can always add k-meta (AKA Campden tablets) dissolved in water 24 hours before you add any fruit to a fermentation. K-meta produces SO2 and sulfur dioxide will kill wild yeast and other microbes (LAB, for example) on the surface (and insides) of fruit. The 24 hours is needed to allow the SO2 to evaporate off. This is a standard procedure used by wine makers.
  4. Yeah, but the inexpense is one thing. My concern is two -fold - 1) the yeast at this stage cannot in fact take up any nutrient (sorry cannot find the reference but I think it is in the Scottslab handbook) and 2) if they cannot then that nutrient is going to flavor the mead AND is going to be a treasure chest for any lurking microbes.
  5. I am a wee bit confused. Tim adds nutrient to the mead that he has just racked from the primary. Presumably racking implies that the active fermentation is just about coming to an end so there is virtually no more fermentable sugar for the yeast to work on AND assuming that he uses about 2 lbs of honey/gallon (an SG of about 1.070 or an ABV of about 9%) yeast cannot take up more nutrient with that amount of alcohol in solution - so what was the purpose of adding more nutrient? Moreover, if you simply add more nutrient than the yeast can handle then either the nutrient will lie around creating off flavors (or flavors you did not intend) OR you simply encourage other microbes by providing them with nutrients they can use. What is the benefit then of adding nutrients so late in the process?
  6. Many, many thanks for your detailed and useful post. I will certainly check out Milk the Funk.
  7. Many thanks Bonsai & Brew. That is a really good site.
  8. I wasn't necessarily asking Josh to respond. Anyone who has the answers is welcome
  9. Hi Really enjoyed Josh's video last night about gose beers. I tried to post some questions but the program would not allow me to... So perhaps I can ask the questions here. 1. Josh said that simply adding lactic bacteria (LAB) would take months for the beer to sour. I have been experimenting with "rejuvelac" - a drink made by adding water to sprouting grains (say wheat berry or quinoa or rye) and after three days the pH of the water drops to about 3.7 because of the LAB that has been encouraged to grow. Why would it take so much longer for LAB to work in a wort? 2. The video showed Josh adding lactic acid rather than LAB but immediately adding yeast. But what would happen if he had added LAB? Would the yeast swiftly take over and inhibit or prevent the LAB from acidifying the wort? What would the LAB convert to lactic acid if the yeast ferment all available sugar? Is there sugar that the LAB can get at that yeast cannot? 3. And this may be a laughable question - but if I add LAB to a wort can I still use lactose to add more sweetness (the yeast cannot ferment lactose) or will the LAB simply use any added lactose to make the wort even more sour? Thanks
  10. There's a mildly (IMO) interesting podcast offered by The Mead House. In the most recent episode (# )59 there is a discussion about making meads which are ready for top notch competitions (and which are medal winners) in only a few weeks. But these are , I think, the equivalent of session meads - low ABV meads.
  11. In Britain pint jars in pubs have a line near the top, below which there can be NO foam whatsoever. You buy a pint of ale, not a pint of froth or foam.
  12. Thank you. I was looking for color and flavor - and not to boost the gravity.
  13. @ Creeps McLane, Yes. Am I asking whether I can expect the gravity to rise if I add say 2-4 oz of chocolate malt to LME or if this wil simply add more flavor and color.
  14. If a grain has 0 L diastatic power (for example, chocolate malt) does that mean that there is essentially no starch in the grain because of the way it has been kilned as well as no enzymes) and so if I add this to my wort should I expect no increase in gravity and "only" added color and flavor, or will the enzymes in the wort convert whatever starches are in the chocolate malt to fermentable sugars? Thanks, as always
  15. If you look at commercial meaderies for example, they all suggest that at most they may heat their honey to about 100 F (my hot water faucet runs at 90 F) simply to make the honey flow more easily. If you are pitching a large enough batch of viable yeast then the few cells of wild yeast will be far out-competed by the lab cultured yeast and if you are anxious about the yeast and bacteria in the honey you might add K-meta (AKA campden tablets) to the must 24 hours before pitching your yeast. Why the change in protocol? To be honest I just think that as mead is becoming less of an exotic drink, more and more people are making mead and are questioning and testing all kinds of received assumptions - including the idea that it can take years for mead to reach its prime. Groennfell Meadery, in Vermont, for example, states that their mead, from honey to sale, takes about 4 - 6 weeks. Another long held view that you pitch your yeast and you forget about the mead for a year or two is now viewed as errant nonsense: you need to degas the mead during active fermentation (CO2 inhibits fermentation) and you need to provide nutrient (many argue) as the yeast converts the sugar. One other lovely assumption that has been demolished in the last few years is that mead will be both high in alcohol and sweet - many commercial (and home brewers) meaderies now design their meads to be low ABV (about 5 or 6% (so use about 1.25 - 1.5 lbs of honey/gallon) ; dry; and carbonated - so they are enjoyed like beer and not as if they are dessert wines. According to the American Mead Makers Association, in 2003 there were 30 meaderies in the continental USA. By 2016, there were 300 with 50 or so breweries offering mead. There is a great online forum for those interested in mead making. Not sure of the ethics of listing its name here but I will provide the name to anyone who sends me a private message
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