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About ohsigmachi

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    Brewmaster in Training

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  1. You won't get the IBUs you're after in an IPA without a boil, but if you're willing to pile in some bittering hops you could easily get away with a 30min boil.
  2. This is not the case for Golden Naked, they are a huskless crystal malt that only needs steeping.
  3. I got a mini-fridge off of craigslist for $20 and a temp-controller off of amazon for another 20 and never looked back.
  4. I don't think this is exactly true. Temp control is important for almost every beer, with the exceptions being some pretty obscure styles that don't correlate to any of the MRB recipes. Keeping ferm temps in check and stable will almost always result in better beer. Personally I've had success with slightly lower initial temps (58-62) for the first 96 hours, and then letting the beer finish up at 65 or even higher, I've frequently let the LBK go up to 70-72 for 48 hours right before cold crashing and this seems to speed up the "clean up" phase people talk about. In my mind, it seems like the cooler temps keep activity in check while food sources are plentiful (this should also cut down on undesirable ferm byproducts but probably not eliminate them), and as food sources become scarce you encourage more activity by letting the temp rise, and then finally let them go full bore to get the residual byproducts.
  5. I own a Siberian Husky, dog hair literally floats through the air constantly. For me, a lid with hole is definitely a necessity.
  6. Plus one on the ferm temps, keep it in the low range (58-62) for the first three days and then let it come up from there. Noticeably reduced twang. Pitching too warm (especially with the Mr. Beer yeast I've noticed) can also impart more twang.
  7. None, tasted like it could have come from any quality brewery. That is the magic of steeping grains and mini mashing.
  8. I just use an online priming sugar calculator (from those brewers up north), it has never steered me wrong.
  9. Not sure how you interpreted that, I run the hose directly off the LBK spigot, through a modified LBK lid into another LBK, same process whether bottling or racking to secondary.
  10. I bottled this up today, excellent bitterness and flavor, not quite as dark as I was aiming for.
  11. What is the consensus on hop stand and dry hop? I've seen a couple of article that basically said Hop stands and dry hops accomplish nearly identical results and I see this recipe has both. I wonder if you would even notice if the beer was never dry hopped.
  12. Instead of using a pot to make simple syrup like Rickbeer, one thing I stumbled upon a few years ago was using a Pyrex glass two-cup measuring cup in the microwave. I sanitize the cup, put water in, nuke it to a boil, stir in sugar with a sanitized spoon, spray some star san on some cling wrap, cover the measuring cup and put it in the fridge. Sanitize the bottles, and then add the cooled simple syrup to the (sanitized) bottling LBK. Two things about my bottling LBK: I bought an extra LBK lid just for bottling and racking that I drilled a hole in the fits the hose off the spigot very tightly, I also use a step down tube inside the LBK to slow the flow rate down, seems to make for much less aeration. When I rack to a bulk aging vessel (some call it a secondary) I use a modified soda maker (Fizzini) to fill up the "secondary" with CO2 (put it in through the spigot) and then rack the beer into it. that means that the fermented beer comes into contact with the least amount of oxygen as I can manage.
  13. Simpson's Golden Naked Oats and Carapils (but really really for a stout you should use Caramel 120 L), like silky buttah!
  14. I had planned on making a starter out of a dry yeast at one point, because I was making a high gravity ale and it just seemed like "good insurance." Ultimately I decided not to; I rehydrated and slowly acclimatized the yeast with small introductions of wort and then pitched. That batch nearly blew the airlock off and attenuated perfectly. When it comes to LBK sized batches I am of the opinion that pitching a full 11-11.5 gram packet of dry yeast is overkill, and pitching a whole rehydrated packet is going "thermo- nuke-ya-ler." One of the most prolific home brewers I know, intentionally (and exclusively) pitches liquid yeast into 5 gal batches with no starter because he is looking for those esters (some call them "off flavors" I disagree). He focuses MUCH more on fermentation temp schedules than on starting yeast cell count. His beers are some of the most flavorful I have ever had. Bottom line, if your yeast is alive, it will make beer. It will almost assuredly make good beer. Depending on the combination of your palate and pitching process you will make great beer. RaHaHB
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