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About BryTy

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  1. When adding the can of boysenberries a week after start of fermentation, did you simply dump the can in, or did you puree the can in a blender first as the recipe states? I am going to make this recipe soon, and would like to have more of a fruit flavor, hence I plan on adding the fruit a week after the start of fermentation, then let it ferment for another 2 weeks.
  2. So I guess my question boils down to this: if the temperature range for a particular yeast strain is in the 60s, will carbonation occur if the temperature remains in the mid 60s, or does it need to carbonate at a warmer temperature (say, in the low 70s). After carbonation, should the "conditioning" temperature be at the same recommended yeast temperature?
  3. I have a (somewhat) related question to this topic. When recipes call for a lower fermentation temperature range (59-70 for the Abbey Dubbel for instance), should the beer be conditioned within this range, or should it be conditioned above 70 degrees like I have been instructed for other recipes with a higher fermentation range?
  4. I am looking for advice/recommendations on what to do with my beer once I finish the 4 week room temperature (70 degree or higher) conditioning process. Is it best to put all the bottles in the fridge at this point, or should I only put what I am planning to drink soon in the fridge, and leave the rest at room temperature? I am conditioning a German wheat beer, so it's not like it is a high ABV beer that needs a long time to condition. Thanks.
  5. My brewing science is lacking...isn't the yeast consuming sugars during conditioning and producing CO2? I will try to answer my own question: the basic sugar used to create CO2 is different than the sugar in the HME/LME and the only byproduct from conditioning is CO2.
  6. While reading through this forum, most of the more experienced brewers state that they prefer to ferment their beer on the lower end of the "safe" range for whatever yeast they are using for that particular recipe. For instance, if the temperature range is 68-76, it seems most like to ferment around 68 to 70. I have also read from some of the more experienced brewers that it is safe to condition at temperatures even higher than that range. Why is this the case? I assumed the bottle conditioning temperature range would be the same as the fermenting range, and that higher temperatures would produce off flavors. Thanks for the input.
  7. I have not bought those recipes yet. I agree with RickBeer about IBU vs hoppyness. There are a bunch of belgian triples and belgian strong ales that I thoroughly enjoy with IBUs in the 30s where their bitterness is masked by the overall flavor of the beer. My question really boiled down to asking if there is an "easy" way to reduce the bitterness. I will still try one of those recipes because they are right up my alley (and the reviews of the Dubbel make it sound like the bitterness is not strong). Thanks for all the help on this.
  8. That's what I was afraid of. Will additional booster reduce IBU? My guess is no. I assume "pale" would be the appropriate unhopped malt extract to use for a pilsner? Does it matter if I use DME or LME? If I use DME, is it possible to use only half the pack and save the other half for another brew? Thanks for the help.
  9. I prefer my beer on the lower end of the hoppiness scale, preferably with an IBU less than 30. I am looking for tips to reduce the IBU of some of the recipes, specifically the Abbey Dubble and Brigid's Blonde, both of which state an IBU of 30. Both recipes instruct to add the hop sack with hop pellets to the boiling water (after it reaches boiling), remove from heat, then add the HME/LME, and then dump all contents into the fermenter. The Brigid's Blonde recipe specifically states that the hop sack will remain in the tank during fermentation (in a footnote), whereas the Dubbel recipe does not specifically state this, but I assume that footnote was left off and should be corrected on the website. What are my options for reducing the IBU? I am an amateur (brewing my first beer now - german wheat beer in the LBK) so I am not quite sure how to reduce the IBU. Is it as simple as only putting half the amount of pellets in the hop sack? Or not putting the hop sack in the boiling water and instead just dropping it in the tank? Or adding to the tank with one week to go (I would prefer to not open the tank during fermentation if possible). Or not adding the hops at all? I am also planning to brew the Partytime Pilsner next, and would also like to reduce the IBU slightly. This recipe also calls for adding the hop sack to the boiling water and then leave in the tank during fermentation. Any and all tips are appreciated.
  10. Yeah, good point Rick and Da Yooper, I should have included the adhesive thermometer in my last order instead of waiting for the Goldilocks gage
  11. What is the standard time frame for receiving the adhesive thermometer? I registered about a month ago but have yet to receive it.
  12. In reference to the LBK, are people propping up the front end near the spiggot, so the trub flows to the "back" of the LBK? Or propping up the back, so the trub settles below the spigot? I have yet to brew my first batch, so I am having trouble picturing where and how the trub will gather. Thanks.
  13. Do people that use the cooler method of maintaining the correct temperature range keep the lid fully closed, or keep it cracked so the outgassing of the fermentation tank can vent? Or maybe they just leave the drain valve open?
  14. What's the best method for sanitizing the spigot before bottling? Dip the spigot in a cup or bowl that has the sanitizing solution?
  15. Brewing my first batch using the LBK this upcoming weekend (german wheat beer). My biggest concern with brewing is keeping the temperature in the 66 to 70 range during fermentation (since I am not fancy and don't have a temperature controlled fridge). I am going with the simple method of plopping the LBK in a cooler and throwing in some frozen bottles of water to keep the temp down (cooler will be in a room that ranges from 66 to 70 degrees throughout the day). My question for people that use this method, do you keep the lid of the cooler closed or open during this process? My guess is closed to create a consistent temperature, but I wanted to make sure my guess is correct. Also, the stick on thermometer that Mr. Beer sends us when we register, does that go on the inside of the tank? How accurate is this thermometer? Does it tend to be high or low (I assume one of the many experts on here has done a study using a laser thermometer to calibrate this stick on thermometer). Thanks for the help.
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