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slym2none

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Everything posted by slym2none

  1. Anyone who wants to contact me can find me easily enough on homebrewtalk.com.

     

     

  2. You can say what you want, but take the hops out of the equation, and it is liquid malt extract. I see you are doing what you are (possibly) accusing me of - pIaying word games. I never said you boiled the Mr Beer cans. I even said on the first page that you don't boil them. But the stuff inside the MrB cans is LME, just pre-hopped. I am so done with you. This is ridiculous.
  3. You are telling me that it isn't liquid malt extract? *rolls eyes* Pre-hopped, sure. But it is still LME. I know you don't like me Rick, but this... I mean, wow...
  4. Murphy's Law - if something can happen, it will.
  5. I've never used LME other than MrB cans, and they aren't boiled. I do get a hot-break with Briess DME, but not like the one I got with a partial mash using 3 pounds of grain.
  6. This is what I got when I added 1-1/2# wheat DME & steeped 4 oz Carapils to the WDA can: I filled a 20-22oz glass with a 12 oz beer. Gorgeous!
  7. Ah, that hop-schedule makes sense, then, using two LBKs.
  8. OK, well, if the carboy has a removable spigot (!!!) then my point stands. Replace the word "LBK" with "carboy" and there you go.
  9. I like the addition of the wheat in the grain bill! You are using 1/2 oz of hops in the dry-hop. That leaves you with a half-ounce leftover, right? I'd either throw that in the flameout addition, or would go ahead and dry-hop with a whole ounce. Pardons if this is incorrect - maybe you have these hops around already and that's the amount you have. If so, all apologies. TTTT, I'd split the Simcoe & FF7Cs and use half ounce of each at 20 minutes, then a half ounce each at flameout, but that's just me. I am probably too late, anyway. Regardless, it sounds great, be sure to keep us updated!
  10. You can, but you won't get a good hot-break that way.
  11. As Josh R said, brew according to the yeast & beer style. With the Coopers/Mr Beer yeast, 68-76 is fine. With Nottingham (and many other yeasts) you would want the 68 to be the top end of the spectrum, with 62 being common for a lot of ale yeasts, and ones like Nottingham can easily drop down into the mid 50's and still be fine. "Brewers make wort - yeast makes beer."
  12. When you get a bit further, if you go there at all, you can steep 4 oz of Carapils to help with head & head retention.
  13. I want to like your post, but I am at my 25-like limit on the day already.
  14. I just left some reviews & they all say they are waiting to be reviewed by a moderator. Maybe they show up as "anonymous" until then?
  15. Those two statements are contradictory. Thorough cleaning would include taking the spigot off & cleaning it, as well as where the spigot contacts the LBK, which no matter how thorough you think you are, is not getting cleaned as well as it could (please notice the 'o' on that word). I guess all I can say is, I hope your luck holds out.
  16. I am not saying you will get one, but you are asking for an infection by not taking the spigot off the LBK.
  17. Looking at your rather serious response, I disagree. *shrug*
  18. And you took me far too seriously. *shrug*
  19. I personally wait until the foam is gone. There might be a raft or two still floating around, but I'd say 85-90% of the krausen is gone when I start relaxing over the beer's temperature. After that, room temp is actually fine, although I tend to keep temps in the 60's as a matter of habit. Only if I am dry-hopping the beer do I let it get to room temps, but again - that's just me.
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