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Everything posted by Bhob

  1. My last batch came out pretty nice; 1Can Classic American Light 1 packet booster 0.125lb Carapil 0.062lb Crystal 10L malt 1 lb Vienna Malt 0.5oz Warrior, 20 min 0.5oz Goldings added with LME 1 pkt US-05 yeast Steep grains 150-160 degrees for 40min, remove from water. Add LME and Goldings Fermented at 68 deg for 13 days 2.1oz priming sugar for 2.25 gal Came out 5.4% ABV At 2 weeks conditioning, a lot less hoppy than I expected. Sampled at 2 wks good. Sampled at 4 wks very good. Saving the rest for Thanksgiving. ūüôā
  2. I have to say that I am pretty happy with my version of Chug-a-lugger. Minor revision uses Safeale US-05, adds Centennial to the LME for 20 minutes, and Goldings at flame-off. Very nice beer, mild hops, very drinkable. Best to let it sit in the bottle for 4 weeks minimum, 5-6 is even better.
  3. Bhob

    Galaxy Hops

    I made a batch of Horses Ass but with the following small changes 1. Added booster 2. Used 1oz Galaxy hops with a 5 minute boil I have tried with various yeasts, but the Mr. Beer yeast is fine and makes this pretty affordable. It was really nice, the Galaxy hops have a nice flavor and aroma. This is on my continuous brew list now. I wish Mr. B had Galaxy!
  4. Agree, but does it matter if the bottle conditioning is at room temp or in the fridge? RickBeer has said leave it out of the fridge until you want to drink it, but I had a bottle of Santa Catalina that did improve after a long time in the fridge. (I forgot about it...)
  5. Hmm, I thought I had this down, but I just read this review on Nilla Porter, and then looked at the instructions, and it says; Ferme­ntation, 3wks Carbo­nation, 3wks Bottle Condi­tioning, 2-3 months Total Brew­ing Time, 4-5 months So there does seem to be a new process which distinguishes between carbonation and bottle conditioning?
  6. I like the Lucky Charms Milk Stout better.
  7. BTW, is there any plan to provide LME's in a larger size? (Like 1.5kg)
  8. It's usually pretty close though using the Mr. Beer yeasts and SafeAle. But it doesn't seem to include yeast in the calculation. I was planning on making my version of a Weissbeir using 6 Golden LME's with a hop addition of my own just to see how it goes, but when I used QBrew to check it over it didn't change the FG with different yeasts.
  9. So, why doesn't QBrew show a different FG depending upon yeast used?
  10. So I tasted the brew yesterday. Everything about the two batches is the same except the yeast. Made at the same time, same water, same pitching temp, same time fermenting, same amount of sugar in the bottling process. The WB-06 is pretty "normal" in terms of beers I have made, with minimal head and not much head retention. Flavor is more or less what I have come to expect from a homebrew weissbeir. The WLP-380 has WAY more head, and it doesn't go away. The carbonation feel is about the same as for the WB-06 but by eye it seems to bubble more. The 380 has a slightly sweeter flavor, which I guess makes sense if by "attenuation factor" a smaller number means it converts less of the original extract to alcohol. I really don't understand it. Just looking at the beers suggests that the 380 left a lot of fermentables in the final product, and somehow the added sugar at bottling woke it up again so I have a lot of carbonation and head? Why didn't it go farther in the fermentation to begin with?
  11. Hey Nickfixit, my calculator come up with 86% and 70%, what formula did you use?
  12. So I have a question/observation. I found a weissbeir kit that is for 5 gallons, but the extract comes in two cans so it was easy to split into two LBK batches. I used Fermentis WB-06 in one LBK, and WLP380 in the other to see if there would be any difference. Both went crazy on the yeast foam, and really made a mess. OG was 1.050 for both, but the WB-06 had a much lower FG. It was 1.000 or maybe 1.005 and the 380 was 1.017. They both sat in the same temp for three weeks. Is that normal?
  13. The spigot on the Slimline is the best for bottling. Something that works like that would be great.
  14. My process. I rinse the bottles at the end of the day and then store them with a small amount of water in them. This keeps anything from getting solid. Then I use the bottle washer RickBeer showed, with really hot water (count to ten, bottle is getting too hot to hold) and I have never had a problem getting them clean. I once even forgot to sanitize after cleaning and had no issues.
  15. I've been using this. PBW http://www.northernbrewer.com/powdered-brewery-wash I just fill the LBK to the top with hot water and a scoop of this stuff. After a couple of hours you just pour it out, maybe light pass with a sponge, rinse and then use the rinse free cleaner.
  16. Bhob


    From the album: Cooler Hacking

  17. I posted the BOM on my profile page. When the fans are mounted vertically so condensation doesn't get in the PCB, they don't fail. I have three systems, this one has been running since last November, the other two for about a year. They run all the time. The cooler has the TEC plate inside the chamber, with a heatsink and fan to blow cold air around. (The small fan in the foto on the bottom of the lid) If the fan fails, the heatsink ices up and then the element fails. My problem was I mounted the fan with the PCB on the bottom side, so water puddled and the PCB corroded. I then mounted it on the top side and all has been good. The air really doesn't care it if is blowing up or down. There is also a heatsink on the Outside with a fan removing the hot air. I haven't had one of these fail, but there are some fans that are a lot quieter than others. I travel a lot and so the ice bottles are not really an option for me, but they do work. With this system I can just ask my wife to keep an eye on the readout and if it goes over 65 she puts a small bottle of ice in there. This only is needed during the summer.
  18. I'm traveling this week but I will post the parts list when I get home. Is all pretty much the same stuff on eBay or Amazon. I like Amazon. I had some fans fail and then that caused the TEC to die, but the basic element is cheap. Putting them in the lid allows water to condense on the fan pcb. Still OK if you mount the fan the right way but I have my other set mounted on the wall of the box and it has run for over a year non stop. They cycle about every five minutes? Never really measured. If it's really hot in the garage they run all the time and then I put in ice but one 500 ml is usually enough for the day.
  19. IMHO cold crashing is not worth the effort. For $45, you can build this cooler with controller. It's good for ~20 degrees below ambient, and if needed you can still pop a bottle of ice in there.
  20. This chart from Jim is why I asked the question. I can't see how a hop can do much of anything at flameout or especially dry hopping if this is the real deal. That being said, I know I do get contribution to the final product from hops added at flameout, and I have dry hopped as well. I guess I was just wondering what the intent is. Since most of these extracts are HME's, the hop additions are doing something but are not the prime mover. Recently I have started using this hop schedule with DME and LME starters and getting some really good results. So, that's what got me thinking about this.
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