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Andre Sebastian Moreno

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About Andre Sebastian Moreno

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    Brewer
  • Birthday 10/12/1971

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    San Diego, CA

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  1. When sanitizing prior to bottling, dip your clean hands into the sanitizer, make sure to hold the bottle upside down after it has been emptied of sanitizer, dip the threads one more time into the sanitizer, and then give the bottle an upside down flick to shake out excess sanitizer. Then insert your carb drops or empty your sugar measure into the bottle, bring the bottle up onto the bottling wand, let it fill to about an inch from the top, withdraw from the bottling wand, retrieve a cap from the sanitizer and shake off the excess from inside the cap, then cap the bottle tightly. Upend once or twice. If the bottles are firm at room temperature, they are probably not leaking carbonation. The only remaining problems are not enough yeast or sugar, too much headspace, or some sort of chemical contamination, sanitizer, soap, etc, or your fridge may be too cold?
  2. Hey Beavis, somebody wants you to post a picture of your Johnson cuz they've never seen one before.... Huhuhhuhhh. Shut up, dude. They're talking about temperature controllers.
  3. Strangely this reminds me of the words of King Lemuel's mother. Sage advice.A little Old Testament history folks (this is the part that comes before all that stuff about a virtuous wife, the part that no one ever quotes): Proverbs 31:1-10 "1 The words of king Lemuel, the prophecy that his mother taught him. 2 What, my son? and what, the son of my womb? and what, the son of my vows? 3 Give not thy strength unto women, nor thy ways to that which destroyeth kings. 4 It is not for kings, O Lemuel, it is not for kings to drink wine; nor for princes strong drink: 5 Lest they drink, and forget the law, and pervert the judgment of any of the afflicted. 6 Give strong drink unto him that is ready to perish, and wine unto those that be of heavy hearts. 7 Let him drink, and forget his poverty, and remember his misery no more. 8 Open thy mouth for the dumb in the cause of all such as are appointed to destruction. 9 Open thy mouth, judge righteously, and plead the cause of the poor and needy." Unless of course you are a Kennedy.... BELCH! Sounds like zorak1066 is playing it right down the middle. Bravo! Excuse me now, I've got some beer waiting in the fridge for me to have "Biblical knowledge" of it.
  4. I used to drive NEMT (Non Emergency Medical Transport) for a Federal Veterans Administration contractor. The company was (and still is) horribly abusive of its drivers, scheduling them dramatically varying shift times each day. Because they are driving commercially in the state of California, even without a commercial license, their maximum BAC is not .08 but .04 instead. Needless to say not only could you not have even one light beer on an hour lunch, but even worse were "on-call" weeks. Regardless of your scheduled shifts for the week, for a four day block, off the clock time between 18:00 and 06:00 you were on call and needed to be able to reach the San Diego airport within 45 minutes of a radio call. This basically meant you couldn't drink any alcohol the whole darn week. Worse yet, all this off the clock time was unpaid, except for a moderately generous flat fee for a pickup/drop off. The company did give you free use of the vehicle for the time, as well as free gas, but that doesn't help much when you can't travel more than 45 minutes away....
  5. Moving this here instead of a previous discussion with JoshR because this thread is solid on topic and pinned. To confirm: The current production plastic body Mr. Beer hydrometer for sale on the website is calibrated to 59°F (not 68°F), is that correct? I presume Mr. Beer does not manufacture this hydrometer themselves, they have sourced it from a third party and have either specified a 59°F calibrated hydrometer to the third party, or have been explicitly told by the third party that it is calibrated to 59°F, is that correct? (Many of the specific gravity temp correction calculators specify that "old" hydrometers are 59°F and "new" hydrometers are 68°F. I still have not received explicit confirmation that this is a newly manufactured hydrometer based on the "old" design.) Also, the Mr. Beer hydrometer video lists the ABV calculation as: "(OG-FG) x 131" Why does RickBeer cite: "(OG-FG) x 131.25"?
  6. One interesting thing I have noticed about the basic Classic American Light with no adjuncts. It doesn't seem to be as tolerant of bad brewing or fermenting technique as other more flavorful or higher alcohol beers. Failing to aerate the wort, pitching the yeast at too high a temp, failing to keep the fermentation temperatures in the middle of the yeast range or below during the three-week fermentation, failing to cold crash, failing to carbonate / condition for a minimum of 4 weeks, and failing to chill for at least 3 days in the refrigerator, these will all likely lead to a disappointment in flavor or appearance of the finished beer that might be tolerable in a more flavorful beverage. CAL will (and probably should) inevitably be compared to a commercial light beer produced under extremely exacting conditions, and if not done absolutely right, it may fall short of those expectations. Heck, it will probably fall short of those expectations anyway. It's just a matter of how short....
  7. Regarding CAL and carbonation/head formation: The advice here has been good so far. I carbonated/conditioned at room temp for 4 weeks, then chilled for 3 days. 3 days cold seems to be a minimum requirement for the beer to absorb enough carbonation to develop a decent head with a vigorous pour. What is the maximum time at refrigerator temp before the CAL (or any bottle conditioned beer for that matter) should have absorbed as much CO2 as it is going to? Is it dependent upon some other factor like FG or ABV? Once the beer has absorbed the maximum amount of CO2, can it be taken out of the refrigerator and stored at some higher temp and still retain the CO2 in solution? Or would the CO2 outgas back into the headspace? How much of it in how long? Would it have to go back into the refrigerator for the aforementioned maximum time to ensure full CO2 reabsorption? Would the temperature changes be bad for the flavor? I'm trying to figure out how long I should keep the CAL in the fridge before there is no possible further benefit to the head formation, and I should just drink it. 2 weeks like Mr. Beer originally suggested for cold conditioning? Also does CAL get better after more than 4 weeks at room temp? Or should I just put my whole batch in the fridge now? I have only been putting in four bottles at a time.
  8. Using of course an appropriate private shipper as USPS will not accept alcohol for mailing....
  9. Ahh, you are from Lake Titicaca... in Nicaragua! Which is actually in Bolivia and Peru, but I think that was Mike Judge's point, exactly how stupid Beavis and Butthead were.
  10. It seems to me that if the insulation was not done perfectly on this sort of modification, the cost of extra electricity alone would be enough to pay for the purchase of a proper fridge timely.
  11. If you contaminated the bottle with oral bacteria by drinking out of it, bite the bullet and finish it now. Don't let it condition any longer. It's done for.
  12. As far as I know, there really is no way to salvage an infected fermentation. Some infections leave the beer at least usable, if not tolerable or even palatable. Oftentimes, the beer can be used for cooking.Sanitation is therefore key. Since the LBK is amber, you don't need to worry too much about light strike, as long as you keep it out of direct sunlight. If you aerated the wort properly, and pitched the yeast, both at anything like a reasonable temperature, the only two things you need to worry about are fermentation temperature and CO2 management. CO2 management involves making sure that the airlock vents on your fermenter are unobstructed enough to vent the excess gas. Don't put your fermenter lid on too tightly. If you are fermenting a high gravity wort and are expecting an active high krausen, ensure that your fermenter is kept at the bottom end of yeast's range for the first week or so of fermentation. Fermenting too cold, is always better than fermenting too hot, but it does take longer or may stall completely. Too cold is not even too much of a problem, but too cold for too long can require you to agitate the wort if all of the yeast have flocculated to the bottom of the wort. If its really cold, I suppose you could have killed the yeast, in which case you would have to pitch fresh yeast. In almost all cases, for ale yeasts, a fermenting temperature in the mid 60s F should be just fine. There is no need to go much lower than that, unless you are really worried about blow off through the airlock vents from a really active yeast strain or a high ABV recipe.
  13. The muslin hop sack is sanitized by boiling in the wort. If it is transferred to the fermenter with a sanitized utensil, or clean hands dipped in sanitizer, it should be fine. Dry hopping is the only cause for concern. Hops are naturally antibacterial, but putting an unsanitized muslin hop sack directly in the fermenter can lead to infection. If you have fresh sanitizer around, just dip the empty hopsack in it and squeeze out the excess before putting the hops in it. Otherwise, boil the hop sack, let the water cool a bit, then wring the excess, and tie the hops in it. All kinds of floating debris is generated by fermentation. It's probably not the hops then.
  14. Too much of that free break room beer for you buddy. Lay off the Novacaine....
  15. The current production Mr. Beer hydrometer has no instructions or documentation. Brewers Friend says older hydrometers are calibrated to 59°F (15°C) and newer hydrometers are calibrated to 68°F (20°C). So is this Mr. Beer hydrometer a new model based on the old design?Presuming someone had a hydrometer of unknown origin, how would one determine the calibration? Place it in distilled water at 59° F, and 68° F, and see which water temperature read SG of 1.0?
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