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Creeps McLane

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Posts posted by Creeps McLane

  1. 1 hour ago, Big Sarge said:

    So, if I get the green light to order supplies tonight, I'm hit with another problem. My malt mill still hasn't shipped, because of the virus and all. I could easily see having the ingredients here before Saturday, but no promises on the mill. I could easily order the grains crushed, but I really wanted to try my hand at doing my own. Maybe I shouldn't, given the time constraints? I'm sure not brewing it this weekend wouldn't be a complete show stopper, but I also don't want to rush later. The mill would likely only take a day or two to get here (shipping from San Antonio). Maybe I could add a pound of unmilled 2 row to the order, for practice and research and all?

    Order them crushed. Trust me. Nothing worse than having everything ready and then your drill goes missing. Or the mill is uneven. Leave large bags unmilled, but if youre ordering for one brew day, get them milled

  2. 32 minutes ago, Big Sarge said:

    Here we go, really want to see this through and quick, regardless of how many times the wife rolls her eyes. Rough draft...


    Oklahoma's Last Stand Saison (8 gal)

    11# Pilsner

    4# White Wheat

    1# Clear Candi Sugar

    .5 Simcoe FWH

    .5 Simcoe 60min

    1.0 Amarillo (WP)

    1.0 Amarillo (DH)

    2x Wyeast Farmhouse Ale


    Pretty straightforward, keeping it medium gravity. 

    One question. What size kegs and fermenters? Why not 10 gallons?

  3. 24 minutes ago, Big Sarge said:

    How's conditioning time on the lot of these? I'm obviously looking for one that doesn't require much. 

    Then go with the liquids, or blend one with the belle saison. I think that one is really estery. A little saisonsteins monster would balance it out nicely if you blended the two. Probably shorten the wait time

  4. 1 hour ago, Big Sarge said:

    So I figure this to be the best place to ask an off the wall question, instead of starting a new thread. I'm looking to squeeze in one more batch before setting my sights on preparing to move. I have a 3 gallon corny and quarter barrel (7.75 gal) sanke available. I think the 3 gal would go too quick, so I want to make a bigger batch. My problem is not having a fermenter larger than 7 gal. I thought about making ~8 gallons and splitting the wort between two 5 gallon carboys. I could then combine them at kegging. Temperature control would fall to the wayside, unless I just put one in the fermenting fridge. I figure I could do a saison, letting the higher temps produce some nice, estery goodness. If I go that route, what is the best way to add yeast? Do I do one yeast pack per carboy? Make a two liter starter with two (or one) packs of yeast, then split the starter? 

    Your thoughts, por favor...

    1 pack each. Stress the yeast and get more esters. Screw temp control

  5. 5 minutes ago, Big Sarge said:

    The words I have for this are too explicit for public use! Awesome. 

    You know what, i was pretty excited about this but today I had a moment when I got super excited for this. Not knowing if they were even going to be in business had me kinda bummed out. Then like 8 hours later they sent me an email. 

    If you haven’t noticed, im a sucker for father, son time with my dad. This is so cool that he gets to come brew at a real brewery with his son. Not to mention, a beer his son made and named after him. Makes me so happy

    • Like 2

  6. 7 hours ago, Jdub said:

    @Cato got the grains shipped to me for an Altbier! gonna see what the fuss is all about. 4 gallon batch. 2nd up in my brew queue.

    Im certainly not going to disagree with your methods. Its exactly what I used to do also. And brewing changes all the time. Common practices change, ingredients change, things progress. However, the brewing network had a rep from white labs on a number of years ago and she practically dropped when Justin said he makes a starter three days before. She said one day is all you need. She mentioned autolysis. That is pretty much an unheard of thing these days though. Thats why everyone did a secondary with every single batch. They figured the quicker you got the beer off the yeast the better. But now they say the longer contact with the yeast, the more itll clean up its own off flavors. So again, in the words of Method Man & Redman:


    ”Do what ya feel and ima follow”



    • Like 1
    • Haha 1

  7. 51 minutes ago, Big Sarge said:

    Sounds like a plan, what I was leaning towards. Which mantra do you prefer: starting it early and refrigerating, or start the day before and pitch active?

    Day before and pitch active. I paid for that starter, it gets added to the beer. I dump nothing!!!

    • Thanks 1

  8. 9 hours ago, Big Sarge said:

    I plan on brewing this weekend. I am kicking around the idea of making a starter, my first attempt at one. I want this fermentation to be efficient and figured now was a good time to give it a whirl. I know I'm throwing this around all loosely, but I mean business. 

    The beer I'm brewing should come in around 1.060 OG. BeerSmith yeast starter calculator quotes a 2.5L starter. I don't have the equipment for one that large. It's not a big beer by any means, so am I good making a 1L starter? I mean, 1L is better than no starter, right? Someone talk me off the ledge here. I'll be brewing with Wyeast 1272, American Ale II. I'm not interested in doing a two stage starter, just trying to keep it simple. 

    I appreciate and advice. Thanks. 

    Its an ale, 1L should be fine. I say do it. Better than no starter for sure

    • Like 2

  9. Gonna brew this weekend. Itll be a dumpster beer but itll be great. Ill brew it this weekend, and then crack a bottle every birthday that the world is still spinning and im still sucking some version of air. 

    probably a pale malt, wheat, rye and dextrin grist. Then add some old moldy hops from the first year i grew hops. Prop up some Jester King yeast and let it work for a few weeks then add some brett. Throw a shirt over it and forget about it until maybe march of next year. 

    • Like 1

  10. Question, what does hop utilization have to do with mashing? Unless your mash hopping but still your not hot enough to get utilization are you? Youre just stealing the oils and flavor. 

    now, hop utilization vs gravity would be a discussion on partial volume boils vs full volume and wed be back to talking about max saturation points again. Cant get away from the topic 

  11. 57 minutes ago, Big Sarge said:

    Looked up a Brülosohpy article about an exbeeriment between no and batch sparge. The numbers all hit but the blind triangle test yielded notable taste differentiation (telling which one was different). 

    My next question: is no sparge a good way to go with my cooler and bazooka screen? I feel like the efficiency will be significantly less without the bag. 

    So youre telling me truly batch sparging vs biab yielded the same gravity worts?


    as for your question, I think the cooler is your bag then. You know? Theyre doing the same thing right? Only thing would be if the density of the wort is stronger at the bottom below the bazooka screen. Unless you tip it?

  12. 2 hours ago, Jdub said:

    it's really not that big of a deal. your #'s that BS calculates for your efficiency is all based on what you tell it your set up is and your technique. I do 1 round of sparging via vourlaf. not hard at all. My First Wort is always very sweet, and I'll telling you that my 2nd wort runnings still has quite a bit of sweetness in it. why leave that behind is what i would say. of course, i'm usually brewing beers at ~6-8% ABV, so I'll take all of the sugars I can extract. very simple brewing.

    Well, dont quote me on this but I believe we’re achieving the same result in different ways. I think you have less water therefore less area for the sugars to go. They have no choice but to stay in the grain. With more water in BIAB im giving the sugars more places to go. Did I explain that right?


    everything has a max saturation point, if thats the right word. Im trying to think of an analogy... 



    two bowls, one gallon each, one has two drops of food coloring and the other has one. Representing first runnings and then sparging. Combine, should be the same as:



    one bowl, Two gallons of water, three drops food coloring. 

    thats not really right. I guess youll say the efficiency wont be the same but I think its close enough to not care. Whats more important to me is getting things like my boil off rate dialed in. They both determine the gravity right?


    plus i need to justify my 20 gallon kettle. 

    • Like 1

  13. 10 minutes ago, Big Sarge said:

    Are you saying you don't try to hold a particular  temp for x minutes with biab? 

    You bet your ass i do! Its probably the most worrisome part of my brew day. My herms coil is great but I didn’t use it last batch and i recirculated the wort differently to accommodate. But with a cooler, shouldnt be a problem 

    • Like 1

  14. 7 minutes ago, Big Sarge said:

    So I'd take out the bazooka screen, just leaving the ball valve naked to drain from. I'm good with not sparging, just as long as I'm getting everything out of the grain and hitting targets efficiently and consistently. I'm not against pressing the last of it out. My initial thoughts we to treat it like a botch sparge with my usual equipment (minus the bazooka screen): mash in, drain, add sparge water, rest 10 minutes, drain to boil volume. If you say F sparging, I can go with that. 

    As far as upgrades, if I'm not going with electric in the kettle, are you saying there are upgrades I should make to the cooler mash tun?

    Im just wondering what size cooler and what size batches you are doing. If its a 10 gallon cooler you should be ok right? With a 5 gallon batch? Maybe not. I cant remember. I brewed a 10 gallon batch last weekend at 6% and had to sub 5 lbs of two row for extract for comfort. 

    sparging sounds like such a terrible word right now. I havent sparged in probably a year, maybe two. But your proposed method seems legit. 

    i wanted to say too, step mashing sucks in a cooler. Youre adding volume to a tight squeeze as it is and have to heat a seperate thing and by the time you add the water and stir youve lost another 5 degrees and youre short of your target again. 

    in short, all im leading to with all this is simplicity. Add water, add grain, pull grain boil. Why complicate it. Thats why I love BIAB. One kettle. One thing to clean. Bad enough I have to use a pump and a chiller and i curse them every time i have to use them

  15. random thoughts while I have a minute 

    F sparging


    Take a recipe in beersmith, scale it to the  BIAB set up, done. 

    i squeeze a bit cuz 20 minutes is very valuable to me. Pull basket, drain for a second, then I push with my metal plate until i reach my target volume. Takes 4-5 pushes. No mess. Drip dry in the sink, take it to the compost in the morning. 

    little confused on the bag inside the cooler comment. I guess then it’ll drip instead of sparging? Or crushing the bazooka screen? What size is the cooler again. In my experience, when you go BIAB, whatever youre mashing in needs to be upgraded. 

  16. 15 hours ago, Jdub said:

    i have e-mailed omega several times and they are great about getting right back to you if i'm not sure if i should make a starter or not.  i usually make a starter for liquid yeast because i'm usually brewing 7% abv or so. been using dry yeast lately b/c i've been lazy.

    Yup, same here

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