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Creeps McLane

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Posts posted by Creeps McLane


  1. Just now, MiniYoda said:

     

    If you ship the beer, and a bottle breaks, and the smell of beer comes out, at best it will be confiscated. At worst you will face legal action.

    The last time I shipped beer, im guessing the hazys exploded. UPS notified me there was damage, discarded the exploded beers, and packaged up the ones that were still good and shipped them back to me. Also included was a report and several tips on how to safely package beer. Its 2019, i dont think they care anymore

    • Like 1
    • Haha 3

  2. 12 minutes ago, StretchNM said:

    I know from reading the posts that some of you all have sent beer to, or received beer from, other home brewers. I want to send a couple of 12oz bottles to a friend of mine in Alabama. How do I do it? I'd like to know how it's packed and how it's sent, and anything else that will help me.

    Thanks

    You must ship via ups or fed ex. Tell them nothing, they shouldn’t even ask. 

     

    package at home. Ship to a business if possible. Youll save money that way

     

    wrap the bottles well in bubble wrap and then stick 1-2 in gallon ziplocks, whatever will fit

     

    line the whole box with a trash bag as leakage insurance 

     

    tape it up real well. Especially the bottom

     

    avoid shipping yeasty beer in the summer

    • Like 1
    • Thanks 2
    • Haha 1

  3. I dont do things by the book, i do what works for me. Its pretty easy for me to just wash a few mason jars and sanitize them to save yeast. Ive never had any negative effects from mishandled yeast. Keep in mind, im usually ducking in and out in every brewing process. So anything that can go wrong usually does. 

     

    Yes, reusing yeast saves money. This is true. This is a good thing. However, certain strains dont really show their best characteristics until the third generation.

     

    Also, if youre anti northern brewer like i am, i harvest yeast just so i only have to order my yeast once a year instead of 12 times a year. Sticking it to the man

    • Like 2
    • Haha 1

  4. 14 minutes ago, syncman said:

    Collected this yeast [US-05], in my 3 gal Fastferment. Is it sufficient to use in another 2.5G batch?

     

     

    IMG_5496.JPG

    If thats yeast and not proteins and hops then hell yeah it is!!! Even if there is some proteins in there, im sure theres enough yeast for 2.5 gallons. 


  5. On 10/19/2015 at 3:25 PM, JoshR said:

    Josh's Quick Hefe:

     

    For 5 gallons:

    6 lb. Dry Wheat extract (or 6.6 lb Liquid Wheat extract, I recommend Coopers - 2 cans... ;). https://us.diybeer.com/brew-cans/malt-extract/wheat-malt-extract

    1 oz Hallertau (split in half)

    Wyeast 3068 Weihenstephan

     

    No need for a starter because this isn't a very big beer. But it's simple and tasty. 

    1. Activate the yeast pack according to the directions on the back of the package.
    2. Add wheat malt to 2 gallons of water and, while stirring, bring to a boil.
    3. Make note of the time the boil starts and add 1/2 oz of Hallertau hops. Do not boil too hard, make sure it is a calm boil.
    4. After 45 mins of boil add the 2nd 1/2 oz of Hallertau hops.
    5. Boil a final 15 mins then turn off heat and gently stir for a few minutes. Cool the wort and add to fermenter on top of 2 gallons of very cold water. HINT: 8 lbs of filtered ice = 1 gallon of water.
    6. Top off to 5 gallons. After the wort cools to 80° or below open the yeast package and pour the contents on top of the wort.
    7. Ferment for 7-10 days at 68°-72° F.
    8. The final specific gravity should be 1.010-1.012.
    9. Bottle or Keg

    At that temp, the yeast will finish fermentation within 7 days - 10 days at most (if cooler). That yeast imparts little to no acetaldehyde, and it gives off amazing banana/clove notes at the recommended temps. There is no need for extra time to clarify or for the yeast to "clean" the beer. The byproducts in that beer are what make the flavor profile. And since it's a hefeweizen, it's not going to clarify anyway, nor should you want it to. Anyway, it's a very quick and simple recipe that can easily be expanded on. Try steeping some carapils for extra body. Or add a cup of honey for some dryness. It's a pretty versatile recipe and a great introduction for people moving away from HME and into doing their own hop schedules.  

     

    You can probably do this with the Bavarian Weissbier and some Golden LME, too, but I haven't tried this yet. I think I'll give it a go sometime this month and get back to you. The yeast is the key.

     

    You can cut this in half for a 2 gallon batch, but it will be slightly stronger in flavor and ABV (not a bad thing).

    Making this beer this weekend. Sub extract for 4lbs wheat and 4lbs pilsner. Also sub hallertau for liberty. The LHBS was out. Never used this yeast before, i have always used omegas hefe yeast in the past. 

    • Like 5

  6. HOME BREW RECIPE:

    Title: Alaskan Amber Clone Author: Web+ modifications Brew Method: All Grain Style

     

    Name: American Amber Ale Boil Time: 60 min Batch Size: 5 gallons (fermentor volume) Boil Size: 6.5 gallons Boil Gravity: 1.043 Efficiency: 70% (brew house) STATS: Original Gravity: 1.056 Final Gravity: 1.013 ABV (standard): 5.69% IBU (tinseth): 35.3 SRM (morey): 10.59 Mash pH: 5.62

     

    FERMENTABLES:

    9 lb - Pale 2-Row (80%)

    1 lb - Caramel / Crystal 10L (8.9%)

    0.5 lb - Caramel / Crystal 120L (4.4%)

    0.5 lb - Carapils (Dextrine Malt) (4.4%)

    4 oz - Rice Hulls (2.2%)

     

    HOPS:

    1 oz - Cascade, Type: Pellet, AA: 7, Use: Boil for 60 min, IBU: 28.29

    1 oz - Saaz, Type: Pellet, AA: 3.5, Use: Boil for 15 min, IBU: 7.02

     

    MASH GUIDELINES: 1) Sparge, Temp: 150 F, Time: 60 min Starting Mash Thickness: 1.6 qt/lb

     

    YEAST: White Labs - German Ale/ Kölsch Yeast WLP029 Starter: Yes Form: Liquid Attenuation (avg): 75% Flocculation: Medium Optimum Temp: 65 - 69 F Fermentation Temp: 65 F Pitch Rate: 0.35 (M cells / ml / deg P)

     

    • Like 6
    • Thanks 1

  7. 4 hours ago, Shrike said:

    The more craft beers I try the more I realize I usually prefer my homebrews.  :D

    Man, I wish. Some craft beers let me down but some I know ill never be able to recreate. I also think when i drink my beer vs craft beer, im drinking to a different standard. So its hard to compare the two. I like what i make but i know the ingredients i like. Seems like an unfair advantage 

    • Like 3

  8. 6 minutes ago, StretchNM said:

    Maybe this'll be too dumb of a question for this group. I mean, I think I know the answer.

     

    Could you just boil some water, toss in a can of HME, and pitch the yeast when the keg is topped off? For example, the can of Bewitched HME is rated at about 5.5%, so what would happen if you didn't add booster, or LME, or DME?

     

    Thank you

    You would have beer. It would be a great way to taste what the hme has to offer. Thats a craft refill so it has more hme than the standards do. Nothing wrong with that

    • Thanks 1

  9. 2 hours ago, StretchNM said:

    The HME bag is about 8oz. I could add 1/2 or maybe a whole bag, so I could keep the malty body. Keeping the beer at 7.4% doesn't really matter to me. If it was close to the expected ABV that would be good. If it was only 6% or so, that'd be fine too. 

     

    @Creeps McLane I hear you. So would you forego adding more extract and go ahead with one of the sugars?

     

    i know your advice to experiment and see what happens is sound, but I still want to hear from you guys anyway. In the end, I'll still be the one making the tough decisions in my micro-brewery. Lord knows I can't count on my help if I'm not there cracking the whip. 

    Im just saying that adding dextrose is not a bad thing. Back in the day most extract kits had one can of extract and a butt load of sugar. Muntons is still like that. Maybe he was against that

    • Thanks 1

  10. I disagree with all of this. Soooooo many breweries add a percentage of simple sugar to their beers to boost abv but keeping the beer light. The percentage differs from style to style. For example an ipa will have more dextrose than a pale. It also gets the yeasts rolling and encourages regeneration for the main course.

     

    nothing i say is gospel. Nothing palmer says is gospel. Noting rick says is gospel, nothing ANYONE says is gospel. The best thing of homebrewing is individuality and freedom. Dont limit yourself

    • Like 1
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  11. 2 hours ago, HollywoodTRBros said:

    Whats up fellas, 

     

    I just recently got back from a three month trip, and was wondering if I should check my old homebrews somehow? or just give one a try and see what happens. I bottled the whispering wheat hefe first week of Jan, and the Tangerously hoppy IPA probably first week of march I think. I just got home yesterday, so at least they should be rather conditioned at this point I'd think, or maybe poisonous who knows?! But I'm still rather new to this whole thing and would rather not mess up my stomach. Thanks in advance

    Theyre definitely still good. Maybe even right in their sweet spot. Pop them in the fridge and drink them after 3 days. Your beers should keep for years depending on style, abv and how good of caps you used. 


  12. 30 minutes ago, ewildcat7 said:

     

    I used S-04 ale yeast and have been fermenting at 64 degrees; today is day 14.  So, I am almost following your suggestion perfectly.  I can bring it up to 68 right now and then cold crash tomorrow for 3 days and then bottle.

     

    If I am reading what you wrote correctly, if the beer ferments in 7 days, then taking gravity readings on day 14 and 16 seems pointless (and a waste of some beer) because it will almost certainly be redundant in showing that fermentation is complete.  Do I have this correct?

     

    thank you

    Some people say the number one rule in brewing is sanitation.  I thinks its "know what youre doing, and why youre doing it"

     

    You technically don't know if your beer is done fermenting until you take a gravity reading.  I would also add that you can do a fairly simple diacytel test at home to ensure the beer is ready to be packaged.  If the beer is done at day 7 and also tastes good and passes the diacytel test, then its good to package.  It will not harm it to go another week or even two.  So, yes, another reading at day 14 is pointless.  But remember, attenuation (average % of sugars a yeast will eat) is only an average.  Two readings are needed to prove the yeast is done eating.  Keep in mind some yeasts are notorious for stalling out at any point and may test the same for days before finishing the job. 

     

    Im an honest man.  I only kinda go by days fermenting.  But Ive also been doing this for almost 6 years.  Every beer ive ever made has produced a krausen of varying degrees.  Some much more larger than others.  I pitch yeast, ferment, krausen appers for days then it falls.  when it falls, I raise the temp for a day or three until im ready to keg.  Keep in mind I keg, It wont explode like bottles would if you aren't careful. I generally go no less than 14 days because I try to only do brewing things on the weekend.  So 14 days fits right into my schedule.  If I don't get to it, then ill go 21 days.  Doesn't affect the beer in the slightest.  Also remember that dry hopping kicks up another mini fermentation, so don't dry hop and then bottle immediately.  Know what youre doing and why youre doing it.  US-04 is usually a quick mover but if your krausen fell yesterday then its probably not ready. 

     

    Temperature is a tool, and also a measurement in brewing.  At 65 degrees things happen fast.  At 35 they happen slow.  At 75 they happen too fast for most ales.  Don't cold crash until youre sure the beer is done because youll either a) get exploding bottles due to imcomplete fermentation or b) lock in undesirable flavors.  Carb the beer for 4 weeks and then decide what you want to do from there.  Cold storage will preserve flavors and keep beers fresh while keeping your stored bottles at 70 degrees will age them for the better or worse.

     

    Its been a long time since I posted any useful advice.  That's why Im goin on a tangent  

    • Like 6

  13. 1 hour ago, ewildcat7 said:

    I think I am going to "split the difference" between 1 and 3 weeks.  I will take a gravity reading after 2 weeks and then again 2 days later.

    Are you using ale yeast? What temp are you fermenting at?

     

    if i were you... i would ferment my ALE at 65 and then on day 13 or so bring it up to 68 for 24 hours. Then cold crash for 2-3 days if youre bottling and not kegging. 

     

    Can you ferment a beer in 7 days? Yup. But mostly with precise temp control and gravity readings. The “clean up” is for diacetyl. Yeast will ferment the beer in 7 days but it also creates a bunch of compounds that are undesirable in the process. After the yeast eats all the simple sugars, it looks for other food. So by raising the temp youll keep them from getting sluggish after eating the simple sugars and encourage them to keep on keeping on. So theyll eat the other compounds which will keep diacetyl out of the finished product. 

     

    Can it be done in a week? Yes. But it would be a shame to ruin a whole batch because you’re impatient. At least go two weeks. Three is better until you can monitor the exact temps and gravity. No two batches are the same. Yeast is a living being, they do what they do when they want. 

    • Like 3

  14. 2 hours ago, Bonsai & Brew said:

     

    I think what @Creeps McLane was trying to convey is that my recipe is a Kentucky Common, which would be correct.  The BJCP describes the overall impression of this style as a darker version of cream ale.  As I've gotten a bit lazy with my recipe naming of late,  that description just kind of stuck.🍻:)

    👍 bonsai gets me. That’s a very rare thing

    • Haha 2

  15. "I want a good girl, she want a gentleman, we saying the same thing like a synonym" - kayne west off of "This Way" by Dilated People.  Such a good song.  Back when Kayne was in his prime.  Sorry, that's what this made me think of. 

     

     

    • Like 1

  16. 3 hours ago, Mic-S said:

    Was low on extracts when I found a can of Breiss CBW Golden Light on sale at a local hardware store for <$9.  It's a 3.3 lb soft can for 5 gallons.  I'm gonna half it, add some malto-dextrin and a lager yeast (Saflager 33) and see if I can brew a lager/pilsner out of this for the daughter who likes the domestic lights.  Wondering if any here have tried the Breiss extracts?  I've used plenty of their DME's, but never the extract.

    Its been a long time since i used extract but im pretty sure for a 5 gallon batch youd use two of those 3.3 lb cans. So one can should be good for one lbk batch

    • Like 1
    • Thanks 1

  17. 1 hour ago, Cato said:

    What about carbonation? I use a sugar dot =1/2 tsp for pales, etc. but for saisons I used 1/4 tsp and that worked out well.

    I certainly don't anticipate a close clone to the Jester, but I never do with any clone recipe, I just like to take the general grist recipe and put my print on it. Lol, why I'd rather not have tasted the original. No expectations and no frustration, just my beer.

     

    Saisons are pretty much why i stopped bottling. I could never predict the outcome. The priming calculator would assume 85% attenuation and id get 110%. Thats why i keg now. Dial it back is all i can say


  18. 1 hour ago, Cato said:

    The Figlet ale will be an experiment but I've researched a bit on smoking figs and will try both hot smoking them and cold smoke and pick which would be best to dry hop in the ale. As to which saison yeast to use @Creeps McLane, you do a lot of farmhouse ales so I could use a little advice there and I'm open to suggestions as the only one I've used has been the Belle Saison dry yeast.

    Well, if you’re trying to clone figlet then id say youd have to steal yeast from bottles of petite prince or some other non barrel aged jester king beer. Theres a ton of brett and lacto in their house strain. 

     

    Otherwise, theres nothing wrong with the belle saison. I almost exclusively use saisonsteins monster from omega. It really dries out the beer but has a restrained belgian character but keeps the more spicy notes. I hated the french saison strains. Thats just me though. The regular belgian saison strains are usually good if youre looking for a more pronounced belgian apricot type. For figlet id maybe try the C2C american farmhouse strain from omega and let it ferment for 4-6 weeks because of the brett in it. Remember, brett is yeast, its not a bacteria. Theres nothing to fear

    • Thanks 1

  19. 2 minutes ago, efdbrian said:

    I’m about ready to start stringing mine up. Tough to see in the picture but the ones that are on the far side of one picture are close to two feet. 

     

    23CAEC6E-57E5-453C-B02A-D68F42AB3094.jpeg

    CECE1C24-34A4-490B-94F9-6C0EE2FAE650.jpeg

    Holy hell!!! Where do you live again??? Crazy how much taller yours are than mine

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