Jump to content
Mr.Beer Community

Creeps McLane

Community Members
  • Content Count

    4,765
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    297

Posts posted by Creeps McLane


  1. 1 minute ago, StretchNM said:

     

    Thank you @Creeps McLane. As you might have guessed I have some questions. I want to understand: Do I start with 1.94 gallons, then after steeping the grains (1 hour?) I'll have 1.6 gallons? Then after I boil the hops (how long?) I'll have 1.3 gallons? It seems like I will lose more than .3 gallons boiling for one hour.

     

    The last time I made the (original recipe) Kit, it called for total 1/2 oz hops, 3/4 boiled for 60 minutes and remaining 1/4 at flameout. Should I do the same thing again? Also, it looks like the mash going into fermenter is 1.3 gallon, so it seems I can't use the 1-gallon jug, but I need to use my LBK so I have enough room(?).

    Mash water + displacement of grains lets you know your volume which would let you know how full your kettle is gonna be. Youll lose water absorbing into the grains so you should be left with 1.6 when you lift out your bag and give it a slight squeeze. 

     

    If you want to have 1 gallon at bottling then you’ll need the lbk. Assuming a slight loss to trub in the glass carboy youll end up with maybe 0.8ish gallons at bottling.  

     

    Beersmith assumes a boil off rate. Thats dependant on your kettle and vigor of boil. I triple the assumed loss with my set up which includes loss in the lines and pump. 

     

    I put the hops for your recipe at 60 minutes just because you really didnt say what you intended to do for a hopping schedule. 

     

    Stupid question but your grains are milled right?

    • Thanks 1

  2. 8 minutes ago, Bonsai & Brew said:

    I'm thinking Pre-Prohibition American Pale Ale -- Rahr 6-row, flaked corn, a little Crystal and fermenting with K-97.  I grabbed a couple hop cones, checked out their lupulin and am picking up on some herbal notes, a hint of light sage, and some resiny aromas.  This will be interesting...

    I remember last year, one day i walked out in the yard and it smelled like woodstock 1969. Thats when i knew they were ready. I havent had that with this years crop but i havent been over by them twice a day, staring, shining a flashlight at night, telling them bed time stories like i did last year. 

     

    Im either gonna use gulo ale yeast, saisonsteins monster or 05 if i have it. Gulo would be nice, that stuff cranks out a beer in days. I input the recipe in beersmith, i figured 3 oz of each hop at 30 minutes would be good. Im at 92 ibus. I hope thats not accurate 

    • Like 2
    • Haha 2

  3. 7 hours ago, Jdub said:

    interesting article. i think i get the freshest ingredients that are available to me as a small time home brewer, however time is my biggest enemy. often times i am feeling rushed when i'm brewing, and telling everyone around me that i'm almost finished. i make alot of mistakes b/c i'm rushed a lot.

    That sums up my methods too. Pressed for time, not thinking things through, and tired. Lots of times my second idea is the best one but i dont have the time to think it through that far. 

    • Like 1

  4. 6 minutes ago, Bonsai & Brew said:

     

    Yeah, both I think.  Do you have a recipe for a fresh-hopped brew?  It's a little tough here as I have no idea what the AA is on these hops but I will brew them fresh for sure.

    Last time i made a recipe with the AAs in beersmith and got it how i liked it, then i doubled all the hops. You figure your hops at optimum level will never be the same AA as hop unions. Then subtract even more cuz theyre only year two. So figure half strength eh? 


  5. 19 minutes ago, Bonsai & Brew said:

    2nd year crop of an unknown cultivar.  Yes, they are growing on my downspout and yes, they are gonna get brewed!🍻

     

    image.jpeg

    Yours look about as far along as mine are. Perhaps they have the same harvest window? You going with a fresh hop beer or you gonna store them for future use?

    • Like 1

  6. Just now, MiniYoda said:

     

    If you ship the beer, and a bottle breaks, and the smell of beer comes out, at best it will be confiscated. At worst you will face legal action.

    The last time I shipped beer, im guessing the hazys exploded. UPS notified me there was damage, discarded the exploded beers, and packaged up the ones that were still good and shipped them back to me. Also included was a report and several tips on how to safely package beer. Its 2019, i dont think they care anymore

    • Like 1
    • Haha 3

  7. 12 minutes ago, StretchNM said:

    I know from reading the posts that some of you all have sent beer to, or received beer from, other home brewers. I want to send a couple of 12oz bottles to a friend of mine in Alabama. How do I do it? I'd like to know how it's packed and how it's sent, and anything else that will help me.

    Thanks

    You must ship via ups or fed ex. Tell them nothing, they shouldn’t even ask. 

     

    package at home. Ship to a business if possible. Youll save money that way

     

    wrap the bottles well in bubble wrap and then stick 1-2 in gallon ziplocks, whatever will fit

     

    line the whole box with a trash bag as leakage insurance 

     

    tape it up real well. Especially the bottom

     

    avoid shipping yeasty beer in the summer

    • Like 1
    • Thanks 2
    • Haha 1

  8. I dont do things by the book, i do what works for me. Its pretty easy for me to just wash a few mason jars and sanitize them to save yeast. Ive never had any negative effects from mishandled yeast. Keep in mind, im usually ducking in and out in every brewing process. So anything that can go wrong usually does. 

     

    Yes, reusing yeast saves money. This is true. This is a good thing. However, certain strains dont really show their best characteristics until the third generation.

     

    Also, if youre anti northern brewer like i am, i harvest yeast just so i only have to order my yeast once a year instead of 12 times a year. Sticking it to the man

    • Like 2
    • Haha 1

  9. 14 minutes ago, syncman said:

    Collected this yeast [US-05], in my 3 gal Fastferment. Is it sufficient to use in another 2.5G batch?

     

     

    IMG_5496.JPG

    If thats yeast and not proteins and hops then hell yeah it is!!! Even if there is some proteins in there, im sure theres enough yeast for 2.5 gallons. 


  10. On 10/19/2015 at 3:25 PM, JoshR said:

    Josh's Quick Hefe:

     

    For 5 gallons:

    6 lb. Dry Wheat extract (or 6.6 lb Liquid Wheat extract, I recommend Coopers - 2 cans... ;). https://us.diybeer.com/brew-cans/malt-extract/wheat-malt-extract

    1 oz Hallertau (split in half)

    Wyeast 3068 Weihenstephan

     

    No need for a starter because this isn't a very big beer. But it's simple and tasty. 

    1. Activate the yeast pack according to the directions on the back of the package.
    2. Add wheat malt to 2 gallons of water and, while stirring, bring to a boil.
    3. Make note of the time the boil starts and add 1/2 oz of Hallertau hops. Do not boil too hard, make sure it is a calm boil.
    4. After 45 mins of boil add the 2nd 1/2 oz of Hallertau hops.
    5. Boil a final 15 mins then turn off heat and gently stir for a few minutes. Cool the wort and add to fermenter on top of 2 gallons of very cold water. HINT: 8 lbs of filtered ice = 1 gallon of water.
    6. Top off to 5 gallons. After the wort cools to 80° or below open the yeast package and pour the contents on top of the wort.
    7. Ferment for 7-10 days at 68°-72° F.
    8. The final specific gravity should be 1.010-1.012.
    9. Bottle or Keg

    At that temp, the yeast will finish fermentation within 7 days - 10 days at most (if cooler). That yeast imparts little to no acetaldehyde, and it gives off amazing banana/clove notes at the recommended temps. There is no need for extra time to clarify or for the yeast to "clean" the beer. The byproducts in that beer are what make the flavor profile. And since it's a hefeweizen, it's not going to clarify anyway, nor should you want it to. Anyway, it's a very quick and simple recipe that can easily be expanded on. Try steeping some carapils for extra body. Or add a cup of honey for some dryness. It's a pretty versatile recipe and a great introduction for people moving away from HME and into doing their own hop schedules.  

     

    You can probably do this with the Bavarian Weissbier and some Golden LME, too, but I haven't tried this yet. I think I'll give it a go sometime this month and get back to you. The yeast is the key.

     

    You can cut this in half for a 2 gallon batch, but it will be slightly stronger in flavor and ABV (not a bad thing).

    Making this beer this weekend. Sub extract for 4lbs wheat and 4lbs pilsner. Also sub hallertau for liberty. The LHBS was out. Never used this yeast before, i have always used omegas hefe yeast in the past. 

    • Like 5

  11. HOME BREW RECIPE:

    Title: Alaskan Amber Clone Author: Web+ modifications Brew Method: All Grain Style

     

    Name: American Amber Ale Boil Time: 60 min Batch Size: 5 gallons (fermentor volume) Boil Size: 6.5 gallons Boil Gravity: 1.043 Efficiency: 70% (brew house) STATS: Original Gravity: 1.056 Final Gravity: 1.013 ABV (standard): 5.69% IBU (tinseth): 35.3 SRM (morey): 10.59 Mash pH: 5.62

     

    FERMENTABLES:

    9 lb - Pale 2-Row (80%)

    1 lb - Caramel / Crystal 10L (8.9%)

    0.5 lb - Caramel / Crystal 120L (4.4%)

    0.5 lb - Carapils (Dextrine Malt) (4.4%)

    4 oz - Rice Hulls (2.2%)

     

    HOPS:

    1 oz - Cascade, Type: Pellet, AA: 7, Use: Boil for 60 min, IBU: 28.29

    1 oz - Saaz, Type: Pellet, AA: 3.5, Use: Boil for 15 min, IBU: 7.02

     

    MASH GUIDELINES: 1) Sparge, Temp: 150 F, Time: 60 min Starting Mash Thickness: 1.6 qt/lb

     

    YEAST: White Labs - German Ale/ Kölsch Yeast WLP029 Starter: Yes Form: Liquid Attenuation (avg): 75% Flocculation: Medium Optimum Temp: 65 - 69 F Fermentation Temp: 65 F Pitch Rate: 0.35 (M cells / ml / deg P)

     

    • Like 6
    • Thanks 1

  12. 4 hours ago, Shrike said:

    The more craft beers I try the more I realize I usually prefer my homebrews.  :D

    Man, I wish. Some craft beers let me down but some I know ill never be able to recreate. I also think when i drink my beer vs craft beer, im drinking to a different standard. So its hard to compare the two. I like what i make but i know the ingredients i like. Seems like an unfair advantage 

    • Like 3

  13. 6 minutes ago, StretchNM said:

    Maybe this'll be too dumb of a question for this group. I mean, I think I know the answer.

     

    Could you just boil some water, toss in a can of HME, and pitch the yeast when the keg is topped off? For example, the can of Bewitched HME is rated at about 5.5%, so what would happen if you didn't add booster, or LME, or DME?

     

    Thank you

    You would have beer. It would be a great way to taste what the hme has to offer. Thats a craft refill so it has more hme than the standards do. Nothing wrong with that

    • Thanks 1

  14. 2 hours ago, StretchNM said:

    The HME bag is about 8oz. I could add 1/2 or maybe a whole bag, so I could keep the malty body. Keeping the beer at 7.4% doesn't really matter to me. If it was close to the expected ABV that would be good. If it was only 6% or so, that'd be fine too. 

     

    @Creeps McLane I hear you. So would you forego adding more extract and go ahead with one of the sugars?

     

    i know your advice to experiment and see what happens is sound, but I still want to hear from you guys anyway. In the end, I'll still be the one making the tough decisions in my micro-brewery. Lord knows I can't count on my help if I'm not there cracking the whip. 

    Im just saying that adding dextrose is not a bad thing. Back in the day most extract kits had one can of extract and a butt load of sugar. Muntons is still like that. Maybe he was against that

    • Thanks 1

  15. I disagree with all of this. Soooooo many breweries add a percentage of simple sugar to their beers to boost abv but keeping the beer light. The percentage differs from style to style. For example an ipa will have more dextrose than a pale. It also gets the yeasts rolling and encourages regeneration for the main course.

     

    nothing i say is gospel. Nothing palmer says is gospel. Noting rick says is gospel, nothing ANYONE says is gospel. The best thing of homebrewing is individuality and freedom. Dont limit yourself

    • Like 1
    • Thanks 1

  16. 2 hours ago, HollywoodTRBros said:

    Whats up fellas, 

     

    I just recently got back from a three month trip, and was wondering if I should check my old homebrews somehow? or just give one a try and see what happens. I bottled the whispering wheat hefe first week of Jan, and the Tangerously hoppy IPA probably first week of march I think. I just got home yesterday, so at least they should be rather conditioned at this point I'd think, or maybe poisonous who knows?! But I'm still rather new to this whole thing and would rather not mess up my stomach. Thanks in advance

    Theyre definitely still good. Maybe even right in their sweet spot. Pop them in the fridge and drink them after 3 days. Your beers should keep for years depending on style, abv and how good of caps you used. 

×
×
  • Create New...