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Creeps McLane

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Posts posted by Creeps McLane

  1. So Rob texted me this morning and said there was a big accident at work and he wasn’t able to pick up his wort this morning with me. So naturally I called my dad and he helped me out. So dad was Rob earlier today. Got both our wort picked up and I threw mine in the snow bank (kegged) and went and took a 4 hour nap.  Woke up feeling like a brand new man but still obviously not 100%. So tomorrow brew day starts. BeerSmith recipe is completely done, I was told the mash temp, the post mash gravity and a bunch of water stuff that I’m not going to worry about cuz I don’t know what size their system is.


    Kinda weird thing is I’m gonna water down my 5 gallons 1.046 wort, boil for an hour and add some candi syrup just to end up with 5 gallons of 1.056 wort. Kinda messes with my head


    • Like 1

  2. @kedogn makes a coconut porter right?


    the last session podcast had maui brewing company on it. He talked alot about using coconut in his brewery. No extracts, no short cuts, the real thing will always taste the best. For his porter he uses a hop back full of coconut chips after fermentation. But for an LBK, id toast them in the over to kill any bugs, then DH with it. You need to toast every side of the coconut. Thats where the real flavor comes from. You can get them at Trader Joes

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  3. If youre kettle can be used with induction then that’s a nice way to go. No new kettle needed.


    i really like my electric element and controller set up. Sure beats brewing out in the garage in the winter. 


    I use a plate chiller for chilling. A source of water is a must. Thats why im right next to the laundry. I just teed the lines and installed a sink i found on Craigslist 

  4. 59 minutes ago, Fire Rooster said:

    My basement has both 120 & 220. Previous owner of home was tool & die maker. Tons of 120 & 220 outlets in garage & basement. Not sure if my cheap SS Walmart pot is induction capable. And exactly what does induction capable mean anyway ?


    Check and see if it’s magnetic on the bottom 

  5. 13 minutes ago, Don H said:

    Years ago, the city I live in ran a test of our water. At the same time, several different bottled waters were also tested. The results were that our city water was much cleaner than any of the bottled waters. Less impurities, chemicals, etc. I'm not sure how much I believe this study, however, I'm not sure how much I believe the labels on bottled water either. So being totally confused about the whole thing, I made my first batch with bottled water and my second with our tap water. It makes good coffee and tastes really good to drink. I wasn't really worried about the taste as much as not knowing if there was anything in the tap water that might effect the beer. So, I figured the best way to find out was to give both a try. Will know the results in a month or so.

    Was it two different beers or were both brews the same recipe?

  6. 8 hours ago, McSquirrely said:


    Rick, does this mean that beer will continue to carbonate as long as it remains in storage after the carbonation phase, until all sugars are eaten? 

    Sure, thats the process. Thats why you measure how much sugar you put in. So hopefully you end up with “x” volumes of CO2. No big deal for most yeasts. The only time id worry about it is with brett or something that takes a long time to chew on those sugars and will eat them down 110%. Same with saison yeast. I wont bottle condition with saison yeast, i dont trust any calculations

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  7. 9 minutes ago, Nickfixit said:

    So when hops are old they can still be used for bittering? but less for aroma and flavor? 

    How does the aroma/flavor change with aging?

    I keep my part used pkts with scotch tape seal in a plastic storage container, in a drawer in a basement room that is in low 60's F usually.

    If they still smell good I use them.

    I often do chuck them if < 1 yr old. I rarely use them for bittering, relying on Mr B HME and maybe a smidgen of extra hop boil sometimes.



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  8. Temp, uv rays and oxygen are all things that will harm your hops. A vacuum sealed bag in a chest or stand up freezer are the best for long term storage. Your freezer attached to your fridge is not the best option because it goes through a defrost cycle when it has to. 


    When hops get old, they dont have to be thrown away. Lots of breweries age their hops for lambics and other sour beers. 

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  9. 19 hours ago, McSquirrely said:

    Sometime back, I commented on someone's cool beer mug, (wish I could remember, but it's been awhile).  Anyway, we only have one style, the standard pub mug with straight sloped slides.  I've noticed quite a few different styles posted here since joining the forum, different styles for different types of beer, it seems.  Was wondering:  how many of you guys own multiple styles of mugs and which style of mug do you prefer with different types of beer? Is there a reason for the different styles (other than 8 oz size glasses  for beers > 8.5%, etc)?  

    So you must have “shaker pint” glasses. They are the worst of the worst for any serious beer nerd. You want some kind of contour to hold in more of the aromas. My personal favorite is the English pub glass. Preferably one with laser etching in the bottom which create nucleation points and makes your mugs retain a nice firm head where wonderful aromas are trapped thus making your beer taste better. Unless you have skunky beer that is. 


    FYI Every style of beer has its preferred glassware. 

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  10. 34 minutes ago, Fire Rooster said:

    Thats what i do. Clean the conical and then give it a quick spray before I throw the wort in there.


    Its also excellent for kegging. The posts get a little gunky and then they wont accept the couplings. One spray of star san and its ready to go instantly. Not to mention great for checking for leaks in kegs and distributors.

  11. 6 hours ago, pborder said:

    I dug out my old LBK and want to use for a second brew.  The lines on it are in quarts.  How many quarts is line one and line two on the older LBK so I know how much water to put in?

    Fill LBK with 4 qts cold water, add your HME / water mixture, top up to 8.5 qts


    heres the video I watched when I started. Around 6 minutes they get to filling the LBK



    • Like 1

  12. 9 hours ago, Fire Rooster said:

    There is just enough room in the pot for water to steep grains for a 2 gallon batch.

    To do a 4 gallon batch, twice the grains will fit in pot, but not twice the water.


    For a 4 gallon batch, can grains be doubled for steeping,

    then just add more water when transferring to the fermentor ?



    I kinda follow you, but you also kinda lost me


    can you make a higher gravity wort and then water it down? Sure. However, I just don’t think you’ll get the results you want from this.  I just imagine a super thick mash that will end up being a mess. 


    I would say the easy way of doing what you want is to steep you specialty grains for the flavors you want, then use LME or DME as your base. 


    If you’re heart is set on an all grain batch on your stove top in a pot that’s too small, then I would do one mash like it’s for a two gallon batch (1/2 the grains of your 4 gallon recipe), take out the grain, and then do a second mash with the wort from the first mash and the remaining grain. Follow me? Then water it down. This is a common thing when brewing high gravity beers. 

  13. What a great topic. Theres a lot of info in this thread. Here’s what I think is important to take away from this all


    3 hours ago, BDawg62 said:

     Most of the character (desired flavors) from a particular yeast are put out in the lag phase and early fermentation.  This is the point when the yeast are preparing the army size to take on the task at hand.  When you pitch a level of yeast that doesn't require any real growth you take away that time for the yeast to produce these flavors. 


    3 hours ago, RickBeer said:

    There are 4 phases of yeast growth - Lag, Exponential growth, Stationary, and Decline.  If you overpitch, then during the lag phase yeast growth can be inhibited by the high pitch rates, which can result in more esters (yeast growth reduces the production of esters). 


    2 hours ago, RickBeer said:

    Think of it this way.  If you pitch a dry packet of yeast into wort, the yeast basically wake each other up and say "hey, time to go to work".


    If you pitch an active starter, it's like a motorcross race where they're spinning their back wheels waiting for the bar to drop, and when it drops (pitched into wort), they're installing at top speed.  Then they look around and say "hey, there's so many of us, we won't fit through the turn, so I can slow down".  

     And with that I believe we’ve rewritten the book on yeast. 

    • Like 2

  14. 3 hours ago, Spoodge said:

    I just made an Irish Red Ale and made a yeast starter from a Nottingham dry yeast. I let it stir on my plate for two days before brewing the beer and adding it.  It was 1200 ml in size for a 5 gallon batch. once it was added to the beer it started making bubbles in the airlock within 3 hrs. My questions are this, is that normal to have fermentation that fast? Normally it takes a while to start bubbling.  Second question, what can happen as far as flavor because of fast fermentation.(better or worse) Can it happen too fast and give off flavors?  And was it over kill to make a starter from a dry yeast? 


    Let the learning begin. 

    How many batches have you brewed so far? Seems like you may be doing some advanced things but not really understanding why


    Is it normal to have a quick start to fermentation? If you give the yeast a good environment to do their job, then no.  You want a quick start.  The shorter the lag phase of yeast, the better off you are.  Bacteria have a hard time living in an alcoholic environment than a non alcoholic one. Ill get more into this on your last question


    Will there be off flavors from a faster fermentation?  No.  Unless you had a rapid ferment due to a higher temperature which will cause fusel alcohol flavors.  It tastes like your beer is up in the 9% area.  Very much an alcohol warming taste.  Thats the unknown here, what was your ferment temp?  What was the gravity of your beer? Nottingham is notorious for being a fast fermenter. As long as you controlled your temps during the high krausen phase and before, youll be just fine.


    Is it overkill to make a yeast starter for a dry yeast? Yes.  You see, to make yeast happy, you need to have enough of them to do the job.  That packet is designed for x amount of wort at y gravity.  Dry yeast also has nutrients in it to help your yeast be the best workers they can be.  The nutrients were all eaten up in the starter wort, however, you just increased your yeast army 10 times.  So really, you likely over pitched the amount of yeast cells to ferment your wort.  Not necessarily the worst thing, just kind of unnecessary. The amount of risk of contamination to make a starter and not to mention the effort, wasnt worth it for your batch.  Most would also say that at the price of dry yeast vs liquid yeast, you would be better off pitching two packs instead of trying to create more cells in a starter. Im also a firm believer in using yeast nutrient, that stuff is like gold!


    Like I said, youre doing some very advanced things.  I applaud you for that but make sure you know the reasons why things need to be done.  I rarely even make starters for my liquid yeasts because they claim they have enough cells to do the job I ask them to.  However, if im brewing a beer for a competition, best believe Im gonna make a starter.  Nothing, nothing, I repeat, Nothing can replace the quality of the end product you get from a healthy batch of freshly propagated  yeast. But of course, sanitation, technique, and controlling the ferment are all very important also.

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