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Creeps McLane

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Posts posted by Creeps McLane


  1. 1 minute ago, Grappler said:

    Hello,

    I am moving on to the next step in my first batch. So, they are bottled and sitting cool and dark. After 3 weeks:

    1. Do they go right into the fridge?

    2. 1 bottle is not filled all the way- will it be ok?

    Thanks. This is been fun start.

    If you just bottled them and you want them to carbonate, you need ideally 70 degree room. Cool and dark would be a great place to “cellar” beer, not carb.  So three weeks at room temp or higher to carb up. 

     

    Whether or not you store them warm / cool / or cold is up to you.  Understand that beer ages faster at warmer temps. Maybe you want to condition your beer for awhile so warm would be ideal. I have a cellar which is great for lagering and storing beer. When your beer is ready to drink, put them all in the fridge. 

     

    I dont have much much experience with under filled bottles although I remember them being different than full ones. Some one else will be able to help you further. 


  2. 5 minutes ago, Enzo said:

     Thanks! As far as the hops go, this is my first go at it, should I be putting them in the sack as I did with the malt? Or is it something that disolves or makes no difference if it sits in the fermenter when I put the wort in?

    That my friend is up to you. If theyre the pellets then they do dissolve but not entirely. If i were you id put them in a hop sack separate from the grains. Just to be specific. Malts are steeped, hops are boiled. Dont boil grain. Pull the hop sack out before dumping into your fermenter 

    • Like 1
    • Thanks 1

  3. 8 minutes ago, Enzo said:

    Hello folks!

     

    So I just finished brewing my Oktoberfest using the cookie cutter instructions that came with the starter kit. 

     

    The other can of extract that came with the kit is Classic American Light, and since that sounds boring and tasteless, I went ahead and bought 4oz of Caramel Malt already milled up, and 1 oz of cascade hops, and a couple sacks from my local homebrew store so I can put more of a personalization on it and hope to give it more taste. Maybe even add some honey?

     

    Expecting a foot of snow over here in the northeast so what better time than now to start cooking. I was hoping you guys can check my work. 

     

    I believe I should steep the malt for about a half hour in hot water before boil, add tablespoon of honey, bring to boil and remove sack of malt, remove from heat, add wort, mix, bring back to boil, add hops (with sack or without?) and cook longer for a few minutes (the longer the more bitter). This is all going from some of the reading ive done but just want to run it on here to make sure it sounds right or if I am missing any keys. 

     

    Thanks everyone!

    Youre never supposed to boil HME. I would just add the cascade hops after you bring the honey to a boil. Then add the HME.

     

    otherwise looks really good. Looks like youve been studying. 

     

    I dont think adding the hops to boiling honey would yield any bitterness like you’d think. Hop utilization happens in wort. 

    • Like 1
    • Thanks 1

  4. 20 minutes ago, Cato said:

     

    I had read that S-04 can get off to a quick start and finish early, so whether my little method actually is valid with this yeast, I can't say. We'll see if my final gravity supports it. It did last time I used this yeast but that could've been a one off.

     

    This is exactly the goal. Typically pitch a little under your fermentation temp by a degree or two, then maintain a constant wort temp and then around 75% fermentation you want to raise the temp to keep your yeast working until they’ve eaten all the sugars and undesirable byproducts. 

     

    And really, whatever the yeast company recommended is only a starting point. Lower the temp and youll supress esters. Raise the temp and youll get more esters. 65 for ale yeasts is a general temp. You control the yeast flavor of your beer by controlling the temp it was fermented at.

    • Like 1

  5. 2 hours ago, Fire Rooster said:

    Works like a charm for grain steeping and 60 min hop schedule boil.

    "Keep warm" button allows it to stay around 155 for steeping.

    "Saute" button set at the "more" level, allows a slow continuous boil.

    Found 3 slight variations of Zombie Dust clone, trying all three.

     

     

     

    InstaPot6qt

    You and @Cato are making dust clones. If you think their beer is good, you should try their food. Some of the best ive ever had


  6. On 11/2/2018 at 11:45 AM, RickBeer said:

    Blueberries are a weak fruit.  Peaches are too.  Many "peach" beers have apricot and peach in them.  Raspberry is a strong flavor for beer, as is apricot (Apricot Wheat is very good).  Cherries are tough, you need to use tart cherries, not sweet.

    Had to search for this tonight. So much good information on here, all you have to do is search. 

    • Like 1
    • Thanks 1

  7. 20 hours ago, D Kristof said:

    I'm helping a guy brew today. Ehen he mentioned thst beer ny name I knew I had heard of it and turned to this forum. Lonnie says he's close but there's something lacking.

    I guess I forget that what i can get, others cant. 

    B93607E1-213D-4027-9981-9B9427671437.png

    • Like 1

  8. 37 minutes ago, D Kristof said:

    @Creeps McLane, have you worked out that psuedo sue clone?

    I forgot all about that beer. I thought it was so good and then it became a one and done beer. It would affect how i tasted things all night long. Delicious beer though

    • Like 2

  9. 14 hours ago, Jdub said:

    tomorrow brewing up an AG super hopped Pliny the Elder clone. never had the real deal, but obsessed with things that i can't get. will see how the clone tastes. brewing with my son who goes back to college this weekend. will share finished product during spring break.

    You mash in yet???


  10. 9 minutes ago, pborder said:

    So my first batch in my return to Mr Beer has been in the LBK for 2 weeks.  I brewed the St Patrick's Irish Stout.  I just tasted it and it tastes very much like flat Guiness.  I read people saying to leave the brew in the LBK for 3 weeks so should I leave mine in another week or is it ready to bottle?

    There is no magic time line. Only way to really tell is a gravity reading. 

     

    However, if you tasted it and its not sweet, then id say its done.  I usually keg mine around 2 weeks. 3 weeks has always seemed really long to me but I guess its better to error on the side of caution. Nothing worse than bottle bombs

    • Like 1

  11. Im always hoping i can make such an event but im probably more 50/50 right now. I think OH is a good area cuz theres a few people right in state that may decide whether or not they come. Last year we went to IN where no one lives and it was just you, me and josh for the bulk of the trip. 

     

    I have been speaking to the wife about dropping her off in Chicago by her BFF and me continuing on to Three Floyds. This time it would be more of a bootleg operation 

    • Like 1

  12. 1 hour ago, Enzo said:

    Hi all!

     

    My lovely girlfriend got me a Mr Beer kit for Christmas and I’m currently waiting for my Oktoberfest to finish fermenting! Day 12 is over and I have just over a week left before bottling (according to instructions). 

     

    Unfortunately, I will be away on vacation the day I am supposed to bottle- so I was wondering if it would be OK to bottle the night before I leave, which would be Day 19 (of 21). Otherwise I wont be back until Day 23, however I was hoping to have the beer ready for Superbowl to showcase to friends, hence the rush to bottle early. 

     

    What do you think?

     

    Thanks in advance. I havnt even tried my first beer yet but Ive already become obsessed with all the reading! Hope to be around for a long time!

    That would absolutely be fine. I’m sure people would recommend cold crashing for a day or two. 

     

    really though, day 23 would be fine too. You could cold crash on your day 19, then bottle day 23. Which would also be perfectly acceptable 

     

    what temp have you been fermenting at? If it was 60, then you may have problems. If it was at 65 you should be fine. 

     

    Before you bottle your first batch, make sure you read up on how to prime your bottles. Don’t go off the mr beer recommendations otherwise you’ll have over carbed beer. 

    • Like 1

  13. 16 minutes ago, Cato said:

    Piggybacking here on @Bonsai & Brew's thread as it seems as good a place to post on ph and water adjustments.

     

    Calibrated my ph meter and got used to the menu buttons etc. Its pretty slick and fairly fast for a pen, to stabilize and lock in a reading. I appreciate that they include a double sided laminated instruction and programming guide, for reference and waterproofed.

     

    Anyway, I wanted to measure my Deer Park Spring Water and then compare that to my ph strips. I ran the test last night and again today with same results. Meter read 6.82 ph and the test strip color comparison didn't quite make it to 5.0. What a bust!

     

    I thought surely that it would indicate more than that, and maybe be off by a few tenths or half a point! I wondered if they would register anything at all so I added a pinch of bicarbonate and stirred it in. That produced a purple off the chart colorl

     

    Maybe I have a bad batch of strips, but they should have shown a dramatic color change since their range is 4.6-6.2.

     

    Lol, I'll practice with it again and check out whether my 5.2 stabilizer is as reliable as my ph test strips!

     

    pH strips are kind of garbage. I bought a pack, used them once and have never used them since. Garbage

    • Like 1

  14. 46 minutes ago, BDawg62 said:

    Creeps,

     

    Two different schools of thought on this one.  My take is probably because I am not a Hop Head.  From your past posts I believe you are.  At 127 IBUs a beer is totally undrinkable to me but probably right in your wheelhouse.

     

    Dawg

    Lol, i dont mean a literal ounce, i just mean the measure of an oz. and not at all those times. One addition at 60, one at flameout and one at dry hop. 

     

    But really were saying the same thing, im just complicating it. If i say go oz for oz with the same AA hop, and youre saying go ibu for ibu, isnt that really the same end result? 

     

    Im just trying to drive home the fact that bittering with columbus vs citra (off the top of my head those ones i believe are both around 14%?) youll get completely different results. Sorry for complicating this easy experiment 


  15. 2 hours ago, BDawg62 said:

    Creeps, I do agree with using different hops but I can not support the argument that you can just substitute them Oz for Oz in a recipe and get good results.

     

    If you do an IPA with this hop schedule with Cascade and Citra you would get very different results regarding IBUs and thus flavor and drinkability.  This is a 2.5 gallon batch.

                             

                                 Cascade 5.5%aa     Citra12%aa      Citra

    60 Minute              1oz                           1oz                  .5oz

    30 Minute              .5oz                         .5oz                 .25oz

    5 Minute                .5oz                         .5oz                 .25oz

    Flameout               .5oz                         .5oz                 .5oz

    Dry Hop                  1oz                          1oz                    1oz

    Total IBU               58.5                          127                  63.8

     

    The second hop schedule for Citra is much closer and will give you a better understanding of the difference between Citra and Cascade.

    I agree with you fully. But one of the most important lessons I learned is how different hops bitter even though they are the same AA. Bitter with an oz of warrior vs cascade. You know what i mean? Then after you understand that hops can have similar stats but completely different results, then maybe go ibu for ibu. Thats my thinking at least

    • Like 1

  16. 3 hours ago, syncman said:

    Recently brewed a2 gal all grain BIAB SMASH recipe, using Cascade hops and Maris Otter. Could that same recipe be used with different hops? IE. Can hops be directly "substituted" for a different flavor beer, without adjusting the quantities and addition times? That way I can buy grains in bulk. 6-7 lbs a time at local brew supply costing a fortune.

     

    2 Gal, Electric BIAB. Mr beer LBK.

    Just brew the exact same beer substituting citra for cascade. Oz for oz. then try amarillo, simcoe, mosaic, el dorado, hull melon, saaz, anything you want. Youre just looking to get a better understanding of that hops flavors. Use it at 60 min, flameout and dry hop. 

    • Like 3

  17. 2 hours ago, Squirley Mic said:

    About the wand....mine arrived finally and I tried to use it when i bottled my last batch.  It didn't work very well.  Probably me.  I went back to the old fashioned way and just stuck the bottle under the spigot at a slant.  Much better

    Theres two kinds of wands, spring and gravity. Gravity sucks, spring is awesome. 

    • Like 3
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