Jump to content
Mr.Beer Community

Creeps McLane

Community Members
  • Content Count

    4,765
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    297

Posts posted by Creeps McLane


  1. 30 minutes ago, ewildcat7 said:

     

    I used S-04 ale yeast and have been fermenting at 64 degrees; today is day 14.  So, I am almost following your suggestion perfectly.  I can bring it up to 68 right now and then cold crash tomorrow for 3 days and then bottle.

     

    If I am reading what you wrote correctly, if the beer ferments in 7 days, then taking gravity readings on day 14 and 16 seems pointless (and a waste of some beer) because it will almost certainly be redundant in showing that fermentation is complete.  Do I have this correct?

     

    thank you

    Some people say the number one rule in brewing is sanitation.  I thinks its "know what youre doing, and why youre doing it"

     

    You technically don't know if your beer is done fermenting until you take a gravity reading.  I would also add that you can do a fairly simple diacytel test at home to ensure the beer is ready to be packaged.  If the beer is done at day 7 and also tastes good and passes the diacytel test, then its good to package.  It will not harm it to go another week or even two.  So, yes, another reading at day 14 is pointless.  But remember, attenuation (average % of sugars a yeast will eat) is only an average.  Two readings are needed to prove the yeast is done eating.  Keep in mind some yeasts are notorious for stalling out at any point and may test the same for days before finishing the job. 

     

    Im an honest man.  I only kinda go by days fermenting.  But Ive also been doing this for almost 6 years.  Every beer ive ever made has produced a krausen of varying degrees.  Some much more larger than others.  I pitch yeast, ferment, krausen appers for days then it falls.  when it falls, I raise the temp for a day or three until im ready to keg.  Keep in mind I keg, It wont explode like bottles would if you aren't careful. I generally go no less than 14 days because I try to only do brewing things on the weekend.  So 14 days fits right into my schedule.  If I don't get to it, then ill go 21 days.  Doesn't affect the beer in the slightest.  Also remember that dry hopping kicks up another mini fermentation, so don't dry hop and then bottle immediately.  Know what youre doing and why youre doing it.  US-04 is usually a quick mover but if your krausen fell yesterday then its probably not ready. 

     

    Temperature is a tool, and also a measurement in brewing.  At 65 degrees things happen fast.  At 35 they happen slow.  At 75 they happen too fast for most ales.  Don't cold crash until youre sure the beer is done because youll either a) get exploding bottles due to imcomplete fermentation or b) lock in undesirable flavors.  Carb the beer for 4 weeks and then decide what you want to do from there.  Cold storage will preserve flavors and keep beers fresh while keeping your stored bottles at 70 degrees will age them for the better or worse.

     

    Its been a long time since I posted any useful advice.  That's why Im goin on a tangent  

    • Like 6

  2. 1 hour ago, ewildcat7 said:

    I think I am going to "split the difference" between 1 and 3 weeks.  I will take a gravity reading after 2 weeks and then again 2 days later.

    Are you using ale yeast? What temp are you fermenting at?

     

    if i were you... i would ferment my ALE at 65 and then on day 13 or so bring it up to 68 for 24 hours. Then cold crash for 2-3 days if youre bottling and not kegging. 

     

    Can you ferment a beer in 7 days? Yup. But mostly with precise temp control and gravity readings. The “clean up” is for diacetyl. Yeast will ferment the beer in 7 days but it also creates a bunch of compounds that are undesirable in the process. After the yeast eats all the simple sugars, it looks for other food. So by raising the temp youll keep them from getting sluggish after eating the simple sugars and encourage them to keep on keeping on. So theyll eat the other compounds which will keep diacetyl out of the finished product. 

     

    Can it be done in a week? Yes. But it would be a shame to ruin a whole batch because you’re impatient. At least go two weeks. Three is better until you can monitor the exact temps and gravity. No two batches are the same. Yeast is a living being, they do what they do when they want. 

    • Like 3

  3. 2 hours ago, Bonsai & Brew said:

     

    I think what @Creeps McLane was trying to convey is that my recipe is a Kentucky Common, which would be correct.  The BJCP describes the overall impression of this style as a darker version of cream ale.  As I've gotten a bit lazy with my recipe naming of late,  that description just kind of stuck.🍻:)

    👍 bonsai gets me. That’s a very rare thing

    • Haha 2

  4. "I want a good girl, she want a gentleman, we saying the same thing like a synonym" - kayne west off of "This Way" by Dilated People.  Such a good song.  Back when Kayne was in his prime.  Sorry, that's what this made me think of. 

     

     

    • Like 1

  5. 3 hours ago, Mic-S said:

    Was low on extracts when I found a can of Breiss CBW Golden Light on sale at a local hardware store for <$9.  It's a 3.3 lb soft can for 5 gallons.  I'm gonna half it, add some malto-dextrin and a lager yeast (Saflager 33) and see if I can brew a lager/pilsner out of this for the daughter who likes the domestic lights.  Wondering if any here have tried the Breiss extracts?  I've used plenty of their DME's, but never the extract.

    Its been a long time since i used extract but im pretty sure for a 5 gallon batch youd use two of those 3.3 lb cans. So one can should be good for one lbk batch

    • Like 1
    • Thanks 1

  6. 1 hour ago, Cato said:

    What about carbonation? I use a sugar dot =1/2 tsp for pales, etc. but for saisons I used 1/4 tsp and that worked out well.

    I certainly don't anticipate a close clone to the Jester, but I never do with any clone recipe, I just like to take the general grist recipe and put my print on it. Lol, why I'd rather not have tasted the original. No expectations and no frustration, just my beer.

     

    Saisons are pretty much why i stopped bottling. I could never predict the outcome. The priming calculator would assume 85% attenuation and id get 110%. Thats why i keg now. Dial it back is all i can say


  7. 1 hour ago, Cato said:

    The Figlet ale will be an experiment but I've researched a bit on smoking figs and will try both hot smoking them and cold smoke and pick which would be best to dry hop in the ale. As to which saison yeast to use @Creeps McLane, you do a lot of farmhouse ales so I could use a little advice there and I'm open to suggestions as the only one I've used has been the Belle Saison dry yeast.

    Well, if you’re trying to clone figlet then id say youd have to steal yeast from bottles of petite prince or some other non barrel aged jester king beer. Theres a ton of brett and lacto in their house strain. 

     

    Otherwise, theres nothing wrong with the belle saison. I almost exclusively use saisonsteins monster from omega. It really dries out the beer but has a restrained belgian character but keeps the more spicy notes. I hated the french saison strains. Thats just me though. The regular belgian saison strains are usually good if youre looking for a more pronounced belgian apricot type. For figlet id maybe try the C2C american farmhouse strain from omega and let it ferment for 4-6 weeks because of the brett in it. Remember, brett is yeast, its not a bacteria. Theres nothing to fear

    • Thanks 1

  8. 2 minutes ago, efdbrian said:

    I’m about ready to start stringing mine up. Tough to see in the picture but the ones that are on the far side of one picture are close to two feet. 

     

    23CAEC6E-57E5-453C-B02A-D68F42AB3094.jpeg

    CECE1C24-34A4-490B-94F9-6C0EE2FAE650.jpeg

    Holy hell!!! Where do you live again??? Crazy how much taller yours are than mine


  9. 2 hours ago, Jdub said:

    thanks creeps. yes, i guess i could have googled it before asking on the forum. i found some good info on it too. i know what i'm going to do now.

    Sorry, i was in a hurry. To me a whirlpool addition with not isomerize while a flameout addition will. Though new info is coming out everyday on the subject. 


  10. On 2/24/2017 at 10:11 AM, Big Sarge said:

    @MRB Josh R, are there any off-the-cuff methods for fermenting with Brett without a barrel? I'd love to procure a barrel, but didn't know if there were any alternatives (i.e. wood planks in a 5-gallon bucket) in the interim. If anyone could point me in the right direction, I would gladly do the research. 

    Thinking about brewing my first sour with extended aging with lacto. 

     

    But to this question above, I may have a tip. At shells brewery they use cypress foeders which give no real wood flavor. So they actually whirlpool with oak to extract some tannins. That’s what I’m gonna do with my beer. Still deciding between doing things the hard way or just using the roselare blend and forgetting about the beer for a year or so. 


  11. 17 minutes ago, Jdub said:

    that's really funny! no it's supposed to be an imperial ipa and only came in at around 7%. beersmith suggested it should be around 9% or so. i could leave it alone and be happy or i could add something now.

    Id leave it. Just pretend its 9% when your drinking it

    • Haha 1

  12. 32 minutes ago, Jdub said:

    hey, i have an IPA that's about 1 week into fermentation, so the bubbling and krausen is over. my OG came in a little low for what i wanted. i was thinking about adding honey to the fermenter now to boost it a bit. any thoughts?

    So your 20% ipa only came in at 19%??? We cant stand for this!

    • Haha 2

  13. 2 hours ago, StretchNM said:

    I recently got a package from Rite Brew and one from Mr Beer. Among other things, both contained thermometers. I now have 6. :blink:

    The Rite Brews were 1.99 but the nice thing about them is they are 8" and like the thermometers above that show the bracketed temperature ranges for each beer style. I wouldn't think many in here need those, but they're good for me so I can learn those particular basics.

     

    THermometers.JPG

    The MRB thermometers are 4" but contain everything I need. So since I needed items from both, I went ahead and ordered both.

    Rite brew is the shiznit. I love that place so much. 

    • Like 1

  14. Im gonna brew a saison, shocking I know.  but Im gonna ferment in primary with saison yeast and lacto and then secondary with some brett.  Its gonna be a long process but itll be worth it.  Challenge is to get plenty of dextrins in there for the brett to chew on.  No matter what, @Big Sarge is sure to receive a bottle or 6. 

     

    Also I gotta get some amber lager figured out for September when I go visit the badlands and @Bonsai & Brew

     

    Might sound crazy, but Im gonna also possibly pick up some oak spirals from Austin Homebrew Supply for the sasion / lacto / breet beer. Id like to get some oak tannins in there as well for added body. Might ship those to my inlaws in TX while im down there visiting them and @Jdub.  Maybe bring back some Jester King beer and propagate some yeast for that beer. who knows. anythings possible. 

    • Like 4

  15. 2 hours ago, zorak1066 said:

    fruit??? in beer? ptooey!

     

    yeah.. dumping in tons of fermentables when the yeast has chewed through the wort can cause messy fruit volcanoes.

    Lol, man, let me tell you.  Fruited beers are tough.  A kettle soured fruited beer is great, but trying to balance the phenols of a saison with the phenols and tannins of some berries is my newest challenge.  I guess theres a reason classic lambic brewers age their beers on fruit for months.  Trying to rush a fruit beer is proving to be difficult but Im having a lot of fun along the way,  Plus since I don't eat much fruit, I figure Im getting some sort of health benefits for drinking my fruits.  

    • Like 1
    • Haha 3

  16. 1 hour ago, StretchNM said:

    Today's the day to brew my little all-grain kit. I got the Star San mixed up in an empty 1-gal water jug. I filled it 1/3 with water and shook to begin the stir-up, but while shaking there is so much suds and foam that I can't finish filling it up without having all the foam come out the top. It's resting now with hopes it'll settle some.

     

    I'm going to have a fermentation problem - my little jug will fit in my camping cooler with my LBK (brewing 1776 Ale), including with its blow-off tube and jar. BUT! now I realize it won't fit once I change over to the airlock! It'll be too tall. I don't know what I'm going to do because I don't think I'll be able to keep the temps down with this warm weather we're having.

     

    On The Lighter Side©, last week I went out and bought a 12 pack of Sam Adams winter mix. I am going to reuse the bottles for this all-grain batch. Just last night, by coincidence, my next bottle to open was their 1776 (Lager or Ale? Don't know). A very excellent beer, VERY good. Just a thought.....

    Perhaps fill the cooler with water just enough as needed and add ice when you need to. Ive never done it but i think a lot of people do it

    • Like 1

  17. 13 minutes ago, StretchNM said:

    I have 2 hops questions:

     

    First, I'm fermenting MRB 1776 Ale, and you put the hops in at flameout then stir in your LME. Then, the hops sack goes into the LBK with the wort and stays for the duration of fermentation. Now, it's hard to tell looking through the LBK with flashlight, but definitely the hops are floating. And it looks like there's stuff all over it (which I hope is just krausen). I read in another thread about weighing down the hops sack in these cases, but I didn't know about that when I began fermentation.

    I'm starting to wonder if, because the hops sack is exposed to oxygen in the keg, maybe it's likely to cause an infection in the wort(?)

     

    Second, I'm going to start a small, all-grain batch tomorrow. It didn't come with any grain or hops sacks (I have some of my own) but of course it says you can use sacks if you want. 3/4 of the hops packet goes in for 20 minutes then the remainder goes in at flameout. The instructions say nothing about removing the hops after boiling or leaving them in for fermentation. The malt is 2-row Barley, the hops are Goldings 5, and the yeast is Safale US-04.

    What do you all think I should do with these hops?

     

    Thank you

    I just looked at the instructions online. It does say to add the hop sack to the fermenter. Seems strange to me. I wouldn’t personally do that. But to your question, no the hops sack is not exposed to oxygen in the keg. The CO2 from fermentation has already pushed out the oxygen. As far as floating, I usually add the hops without bagging them. They float for about three days but then they sink, especially true if you cold crash. The stuff all over the hop sack is most likely yeast clumps that are caught on the sack. I wouldn’t worry.

     

    for the all grain batch, I’d remove the hops. That’s why you’re bagging them in the boil, to keep out the vegetable matter but isomerize the alpha acids. That’s when they sell bazooka screens and hop spiders. You generally don’t want excess hops or proteins in your beer. 

     

    How many batches have you brewed so far? I’m all about experimenting but maybe a little research first would keep you from wasting time and money tomorrow. 

    • Like 1

  18. 1 hour ago, McSquirrely said:

    Tomorrow it will be 14 days without power - most of the snow is gone, but not all.  I'm supposed to crash my next batch tomorrow - thankfully it's still in the mid to low 30's outside so I'll just set the lbk in the snow patch, cover it with a towel and let it crash.  Bottling is easily done with melted snow water and takes no power so  I don't even need to run the generator.  On Wednesday it's back to the camp stove as I attempt my clone of Santiam Brewing's Pirate Stout.  I have all the necessary ingredients save the English Admiral hops and those I may need to substitute with the 'mystery' hops already on hand.  The brewing goes on (as does the delightful consumption of some of the earlier efforts!).  😋

    Where are you? At the Amundsen-Scott Research facility in Antartica? 

    • Like 1
    • Haha 4

  19. 13 minutes ago, Cato said:

    Thoughts turning to how I want to rebuild my mostly depleted pipeline. 

    I'll need some good staple brews to form the backbone to start off with before I can start working in new styles.

     

    Sooo, it'll be spring and to get things rolling I'll  start off with an Irish Red recipe in an LBK, and a Altbier recipe in my ss mini brew bucket. These I can do pretty much back to back, allowing just a few days separation since they'll both fit in the mini fridge at the same time.

     

    Using the same combo of fermenters I'll  do a  citrus zest Witbier in an LBK, and either a variation of @Creeps McLane's Little Trees PA or if figs are in season yet, try to flesh out that Jester King beer that uses smoked figs. Lol, that would be very experimental for me, but I've got a nice digital electric smoker that can do cold smoke temps, and I like figs so there you go.

     

    Plus I figure once I get my wood and fig recipe down, I can vacuum seal those puppies and pack some off to Wisconsin and see what Creeps can come up with.

     

    Yep looking forward to spring 2019.

    Youll have to go get a bottle of the smoked fig beer and steal their yeast. I just last night got my next grain order ready and put the noble king recipe in my cart. Im thinking a nice 4.5% beer for SD would be nice to pack.


  20. Well, 05 is the same yeast so it wouldnt hurt to throw it in. That shouldve been more than enough yeast but god damn, its been days. Id chuck a pack in just to be sure. Although any layor of krausen is in fact krausen... give it til the morning then investigate.

    • Thanks 1
×
×
  • Create New...