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Creeps McLane

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Everything posted by Creeps McLane

  1. I plan on drinking the whole world dry before I leave it My mom used to say "You cant drink it all in one night" as Id leave for the bar and I always thought of it as a challenge.
  2. El Diablo --------- Brewer: Style: American IPA Batch: 2.00 galExtract Characteristics --------------- Recipe Gravity: 1.059 OG Recipe Bitterness: 87 IBU Recipe Color: 3° SRM Estimated FG: 1.015 Alcohol by Volume: 5.7% Alcohol by Weight: 4.5% Ingredients ----------- Briess LME - Pilsen Light 3.30 lb, Extract, Extract El Dorado 0.50 oz, Pellet, 5 minutes El Dorado 0.50 oz, Pellet, 60 minutes Mt. Hood 0.50 oz, Pellet, 5 minutes Polaris - 0.25 oz, Pellet, 20 minutes Safale S-05 Dry Ale Yeast 1.00 unit, Yeast, American: Temperature Range: 59°-75° F 11.5 GRAMS
  3. been getting this from both my phone and computer. been happening quite a bit when i either hit the back button on my phone to get to the main forum screen or when i select the forum tab on my computer
  4. We did force carb. Beer was cold at carbing, but a few hours later all I was getting was head. So we let it sit over night and now its pouring pretty well. The nice thing is, normally we'd just bottle and wait 4 weeks. Instead Im drinking it a day after "bottling day" We did bottle some too and Im still pretty new to kegging but the beer tastes great. Good taste up front and then a bitterness that hits you a few minutes later. I can get you the recipe if you want. Nothing too hard, all extract actually
  5. That sir would be my first ever kegged beer. We called it El Diablo IPA. El Dorado hops for bittering and aroma, Polaris and Mt Hood for flavor. Tastes freaking great. Kegging is awesome.
  6. Boil your priming water, I let mine boil for 5 minutes if I can. Since you're only doing two gallons I assume that may be hard. Maybe just boil a cup or a cup and a half. Add priming sugar and let cool. meanwhile id be washing bottles or whatever. Boil your water first. Oh and cover with a sanitized aluminum foil while cooking, just so no junk gets in. Slimline is cool, I like my other LBK for batch priming. Start draining into whichever you choose. About 1/3 of the way through transferring, dump in the priming sugar. Finish transferring. The draining will mix the priming sugar for you. A vinyl tube works the best but I don't have one that's good grade so I just drain in slowly at an angle. Then I stir ever so gently with a sanitized spoon, gently, very gently. Then start bottling. I like batch priming cuz it minimizes my trub, and maximizes my yield. as far as screwy Brewer, I just get it close, it's a preference thing. Im bottling tonight too, maybe I'll take some pics... thats how I do it, works for me. Just be clean. Batch priming is twice as quick as bottle priming unless you use tabs.
  7. I use my phone for everything. If I'm on my computer, it's late at night and I'm at least buzzed. That's when you'll see me post some very random stuff im just glad I could post a pic of my problem from my phone. Good job fixing that one MB
  8. This is what I get when I confirm my review.
  9. Menasha! Yes! My wife works for a company based out of menasha. Any good home brew stores by you?
  10. You really like that hop schedule don't you? Can't say I disagree, what I've tasted of what I have labeled as MRBJR was quite good. Wish I could kick this cold so I can really get the full taste. 3 in the fridge just waiting for me... Tempting me
  11. True dat ^^ the most valuable beers are the ones that teach you a lesson. Lots of lessons for a been to learn
  12. Plus another one for batch priming... Just saying, might as well make it 4
  13. I said "My Buddy Bought" Not me, Him. I says to "how about we focus on something else weve never done before, Like liquid yeats?" Next time I see him he says he ordered the kegs. And if it hadnt have just been xmas he wouldve ordered some 10 gal Mash Tun/ Brew Kettle thing with a heating element in it so you can brew basically anywhere. That was $700... Liquid yeast will have to wait I guess
  14. My buddy bought 2 brand new 5 gal corny kegs... Very excited. Anything I need to know before we start this new chapter in brewing? Weve watched all you tube videos, Im looking for more of a silly little things a person wouldnt think of on their first go round.
  15. No sir, I may be a bit strange but I'm no south paw. Although I can some what swing a bat left handed
  16. I can't either, I phone 5c 9.2. Seems to upload all the way then give me an error message
  17. I like post quite a bit, but it still has me wondering things. Ive made 15 batches and 6 had a twang to them, some more than others. The ones that had no twang all had a 60 min partial boil. I pretty much came to the assumption that you cant just add a can of HME to already boiled water and yield a perfect batch. Now what really has me perplexed is my last batch of Brew de Ale ze Bub has a slight, slight twang to it. I did a hop stand for 45 min at 170 degrees. Really didnt expect it with that batch since I did that hop stand. But i still did the LBK top off that youre talking about, do you think I should stop that?. I have a big enough pot to boil 3 gallons so I could always do a full boil, Id just need to keep more ice on hand. Good thing I live in WI and snow is usually abundant. I believe in the Extract Twang, and I despise it. I also depise those of you that have never had a batch with the twang.
  18. see, this is a source of a whole different debate here. Thats the priming sugar you use and how it differs. some say its all the same, sugar is sugar and its all the same. In my experience, sugar cubes and bottle priming give you a steady and calculated increase ratio for days conditioned and carb level. When I use corn sugar, I feel like its a slow gradual climb and them BOOM, beer is carbed. I agree, drink IPA's as soon as their carbed, just dont waste beers sampling and figuring that hey, week four produces primo beer.
  19. 1) Temp control is key. If you cant keep the WORT temp around 65 degrees youll get green apple beer. I do 62 now and really practice my patience. (For my Safale US-05) Obviously differs per yeast 2) Patience is key. Waiting the 3 weeks for fermenting is easy, its once its in a bottle thats hard for me. 2 week conditioned beer sucks, 4 is the earliest I would taste anything that wasnt kegged. Then determine when you think itll be ready to drink 3) Experimenting is good. As long as it wont ruin the whole batch, do what you want. See what a beer tastes at each week of conditioning, try different yeasts, stick some bottles in the fridge for a month and some at 70 degrees for a month and see the difference. 4) Yeast is HUGE!!! I proof mine now almost all the time. I dont use MB yeast but I do think you can. Maybe just use two packets??? I dont know, I just like buying bulk packs off amazon and use whatever yeast I feel appropriate. When I first started I thought about Hops and grains, thats about it. Yeast is possibly the most important part of brewing. Its the thing that actually turns your wort into beer, and it sounds like a tedious process. Treat your yeasties right yall 5) Be prepared. I can crank out a batch of MB in 20 minutes if I have a batch of StarSan ready. Otherwise a 60 minute boil with mashing grains takes me about 3.5 hours. Either way, Its a bad thing to be running around looking for your spatula or bottling and all of a sudden you realize you dont have enough bottles. 6) Be clean, like real clean. I feel like why even say this. if you want to brew with dirty equipment then you deserve crappy beer. Im a sloppy person but my brewing equipment is perfect come brew day. I wash, store, and on brew day wash again and sanitize. You should do the same unless youre prepping the night before ie bottle cleaning. Oh and... 7) Bottle cleaning sucks. You know what the solution is? Make a friend or get your spouse involved cuz cleaning 25 bottles vs 50 is an amazing thing. If not, suck it up and do it. Bottle brushes have a little loop on top that I stick my pointer finger through and spin my finger. Amazing how long it took me to realize I could do it that way. 8) Taste your beer prior to bottling. Or take a hydrometer reading but I think your taste buds could tell a beer that needs to be fermented longer. You should taste malt and hops, not sugar. You stay up on a Friday washing bottles all night only to taste your beer Saturday and realize you need a few more days... bad situation. 9) Batch Priming is good. It may sound like more work but its not, trust me. I made maybe 10 different 2 gallon batches yielding 21 bottles at 12oz per bottle priming batch. Then I bought extra LBK's and batch primed... Next batch I got 23.5 bottles at 12oz by batch priming. Now its all I do. While Im sanitizing bottles Im boiling my priming solution. It literally adds 1 minute to bottling day. 10) Have fun. When I brew I put on a new album, lay out my hop schedule, and just go. I have a brew buddy and we make 5 gallon batches of IPA's cuz thats what he likes. Me, I make 2 gallon experimental batches of whatever I want or whats on sale. When I brew with my buddy, we joke and drink and maybe if the hop schedule permits, we sneak out for a smoke. And then we wash our hands... and continue drinking. Dont worry about your brew, just put it in your basement or closet or wherever and forget about it for 3 weeks. Dont poke, dont prod, just let it be. This is a fun hobby, let it stay fun. Thats all I got, agree or disagree or add your thoughts cuz Im not perfect. Ive made 15 batches and three ended up down the sink. One was bad fermenting temps, one was bad yeast and one I cant explain. Like I said, Im not perfect but ive noticed a lot of people posting on here asking for newbie help. Here it is. This will get you a step ahead of the game. Go Pack Oh and take notes. Hard to duplicate the perfect batch if you cant remember what the heck you used.
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