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Creeps McLane

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Everything posted by Creeps McLane

  1. Well this is certainly a lot like the process of brewing. Lots of opinions, none are probably wrong but everyone sure thinks they’re right.
  2. So you must have “shaker pint” glasses. They are the worst of the worst for any serious beer nerd. You want some kind of contour to hold in more of the aromas. My personal favorite is the English pub glass. Preferably one with laser etching in the bottom which create nucleation points and makes your mugs retain a nice firm head where wonderful aromas are trapped thus making your beer taste better. Unless you have skunky beer that is. FYI Every style of beer has its preferred glassware.
  3. Thats what i do. Clean the conical and then give it a quick spray before I throw the wort in there. Its also excellent for kegging. The posts get a little gunky and then they wont accept the couplings. One spray of star san and its ready to go instantly. Not to mention great for checking for leaks in kegs and distributors.
  4. https://spikebrewing.freshdesk.com/support/solutions/articles/35000032379-do-i-need-to-passivate-my-equipment-before-use-
  5. I dont get how a bigger fermenter will help you with your kettle issue. I take it you really want to go all grain? This fermenter is cheaper http://www.ritebrew.com/product-p/841242.htm
  6. Fill LBK with 4 qts cold water, add your HME / water mixture, top up to 8.5 qts heres the video I watched when I started. Around 6 minutes they get to filling the LBK https://youtu.be/QDdzMphvyvg
  7. I kinda follow you, but you also kinda lost me can you make a higher gravity wort and then water it down? Sure. However, I just don’t think you’ll get the results you want from this. I just imagine a super thick mash that will end up being a mess. I would say the easy way of doing what you want is to steep you specialty grains for the flavors you want, then use LME or DME as your base. If you’re heart is set on an all grain batch on your stove top in a pot that’s too small, then I would do one mash like it’s for a two gallon batch (1/2 the grains of your 4 gallon recipe), take out the grain, and then do a second mash with the wort from the first mash and the remaining grain. Follow me? Then water it down. This is a common thing when brewing high gravity beers.
  8. What a great topic. Theres a lot of info in this thread. Here’s what I think is important to take away from this all And with that I believe we’ve rewritten the book on yeast.
  9. How many batches have you brewed so far? Seems like you may be doing some advanced things but not really understanding why Is it normal to have a quick start to fermentation? If you give the yeast a good environment to do their job, then no. You want a quick start. The shorter the lag phase of yeast, the better off you are. Bacteria have a hard time living in an alcoholic environment than a non alcoholic one. Ill get more into this on your last question Will there be off flavors from a faster fermentation? No. Unless you had a rapid ferment due to a higher temperature which will cause fusel alcohol flavors. It tastes like your beer is up in the 9% area. Very much an alcohol warming taste. Thats the unknown here, what was your ferment temp? What was the gravity of your beer? Nottingham is notorious for being a fast fermenter. As long as you controlled your temps during the high krausen phase and before, youll be just fine. Is it overkill to make a yeast starter for a dry yeast? Yes. You see, to make yeast happy, you need to have enough of them to do the job. That packet is designed for x amount of wort at y gravity. Dry yeast also has nutrients in it to help your yeast be the best workers they can be. The nutrients were all eaten up in the starter wort, however, you just increased your yeast army 10 times. So really, you likely over pitched the amount of yeast cells to ferment your wort. Not necessarily the worst thing, just kind of unnecessary. The amount of risk of contamination to make a starter and not to mention the effort, wasnt worth it for your batch. Most would also say that at the price of dry yeast vs liquid yeast, you would be better off pitching two packs instead of trying to create more cells in a starter. Im also a firm believer in using yeast nutrient, that stuff is like gold! Like I said, youre doing some very advanced things. I applaud you for that but make sure you know the reasons why things need to be done. I rarely even make starters for my liquid yeasts because they claim they have enough cells to do the job I ask them to. However, if im brewing a beer for a competition, best believe Im gonna make a starter. Nothing, nothing, I repeat, Nothing can replace the quality of the end product you get from a healthy batch of freshly propagated yeast. But of course, sanitation, technique, and controlling the ferment are all very important also.
  10. If you just bottled them and you want them to carbonate, you need ideally 70 degree room. Cool and dark would be a great place to “cellar” beer, not carb. So three weeks at room temp or higher to carb up. Whether or not you store them warm / cool / or cold is up to you. Understand that beer ages faster at warmer temps. Maybe you want to condition your beer for awhile so warm would be ideal. I have a cellar which is great for lagering and storing beer. When your beer is ready to drink, put them all in the fridge. I dont have much much experience with under filled bottles although I remember them being different than full ones. Some one else will be able to help you further.
  11. Can anyone out there tell me what im doing right now?


    1. Creeps McLane

      Creeps McLane

      Not even one guess?

  12. That my friend is up to you. If theyre the pellets then they do dissolve but not entirely. If i were you id put them in a hop sack separate from the grains. Just to be specific. Malts are steeped, hops are boiled. Dont boil grain. Pull the hop sack out before dumping into your fermenter
  13. Youre never supposed to boil HME. I would just add the cascade hops after you bring the honey to a boil. Then add the HME. otherwise looks really good. Looks like youve been studying. I dont think adding the hops to boiling honey would yield any bitterness like you’d think. Hop utilization happens in wort.
  14. Research all posts by @HoppySmile!, hes very advanced
  15. Keeping both him and I stocked with beer would be a full time job with overtime. Where do you think i learned my habits?
  16. My dad drank blatz forever until i switched him to keystone. Now im trying to find a craft lager he can keep in his fridge. But i got this tattoo about 10 yrs ago to pay homage to him.
  17. This is exactly the goal. Typically pitch a little under your fermentation temp by a degree or two, then maintain a constant wort temp and then around 75% fermentation you want to raise the temp to keep your yeast working until they’ve eaten all the sugars and undesirable byproducts. And really, whatever the yeast company recommended is only a starting point. Lower the temp and youll supress esters. Raise the temp and youll get more esters. 65 for ale yeasts is a general temp. You control the yeast flavor of your beer by controlling the temp it was fermented at.
  18. You and @Cato are making dust clones. If you think their beer is good, you should try their food. Some of the best ive ever had
  19. Had to search for this tonight. So much good information on here, all you have to do is search.
  20. I guess I forget that what i can get, others cant.
  21. @Enzo i knew these guys would respond for ya. I dont really bottle anymore but i used to batch prime which is better in my opinion, but also takes an extra vessel. If you use the drops from Mr Beer, I found that what they recommended for a 12 oz bottle was what i would use for a 16 oz bottle and it was still a little over carbed.
  22. I forgot all about that beer. I thought it was so good and then it became a one and done beer. It would affect how i tasted things all night long. Delicious beer though
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